IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 4074, 12 April 1932, Page 58

IN FASHION’S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

By

Marguerite.

Smart women are wearing black for formal parties in the afternoon and in the evening, with soft white fronts or white furs, especially snowy white ermine or a sharp note of contrasting colour. Black velvet, crepe satin, and taffeta and a black woollen material, very soft and clinging, are used for these dresses. Black and white is always smart— ; a simple, graceful frock finished with a tight cluster of white violets pinned at the waist, black and white beads, a black hat with a touch of white, and black and white, gloves is a pleasing afternoon outfit. 'Die newest colour note with black will be gold, of which. aS it is such a strong colour, very little will be needed —a cowl neckline, or gold roses on the shoulder of an evening dress. It is very refreshing to observe the prevalence of the gay note in our winter attire this season. Everywhere we seh bright-coloured dresses, and gaj' colours relieving frocks of sombre hue. Coloured.skirts are topped by saucy fur jackets and quaint little hats that sport a coloured feather, or flash a brilliant plume are perched coyly on top of the head. Almost anyone can look attractive nowadays, and these happy touches >of vivid shades must do much to alleviate some of the drabness which seems to forgather in the life of the city during the winter. Another interesting note lies in the fact that there are more experiments with colours to-day than ever before. Paris designers this season show a certain recklessness in throwing colours together. Skirts may be ink green with tops of I sky blue, a dark blue dress may have a yellow yoke, and brown ami pale copper is a very new combination. Other colour variations are obtained from the texture of the stuff its< If. Artificial silk has lent a metallic radiance to many of the new materials. New dyes have produced subtle tones in whites and the brilliancy of the peacock and kingfisher hues equally. Sunlight shades are popular, particularly soft golds, flame, and greens. Wine red woollen cloth collared in blue fox is a smart combination for a winter suit or coat-frock. Pale beige suede cloth trimmed with beaver is another striking combination for the youthful wearers. The fur is lavishly applied with a huge collar and wide flare cuffs. Soft green shades are popular in cuffless coats collared in red fox or Persian lamb. Fur as a colour note and a cosy finish is favoured for the new season’s ensembles. Platinum fox trims a sky blue woollen jacket suit, while blue fox is similarly used to trim a navy blue suit. A banana colour rough cloth coat is trimmed with brown fur, and worn over-a brown frock. A pewter grey cloth coat and a matching beret worn with a deep wine red woollen frock is considered the last word in chic. The dress may be slightly trimmed with grey astrakhan. There are many new ideas coming forward ami particularly clever ways of using colour.

This illustrates a delightful afternoon frock of wine-coloured wool anarocain. designed for a matron. The low placed godets and long panel of lace are extremely slimming. The coarse lace is in a lighter tone than the marocain. The vest and deep cuffs are of lace. The rovers are edged with narrow pleated frilling which extends around the back of the

collarless neckline. The wee band of silk gives a pleasing effect. The turban is of wine-coloured velvet. Another suggestion is black silk crepe and black lace, the lace lined with white or coloured georgette, which will just faintly show through and relieve the all-black effect. A brown frock may be carried out the same way, with the frilling edged with the colour chosen, or stitchery that will match the colour of the lining. The new fashions shown in February are again being shown in April, -with some new styles added and mans’- of the recent ones corrected. All the clothes have distinction. _ Young styles are fairly balanced with styles suitable for middleaged women. Simple afternoon dressing is the -rule. Good gloves, shoes, stockings, and bag is. another rule. Attention to the care of the figure, complexion, and hands is not relaxed, and hairdressing must be counted in the. day’s expenses. It is

clearly understood by the well-dressed woman, that clothes are but.half the .battle nowadays. • -

Despite its insistence on the slim silhouette, the mode is nevertheless very kind to people xvho are plump. They are provided with a wide choice of perfectly delightful materials in small designs, and since bright colours emphasise overmuch their plump lines, they are given a wonderful range of dull weaves, with just enough bright threadwork in them to pander to the thirst for colourful effects. Vests and linings add to the colour-note, which at all times is becoming. Raglan sleeves have reappeared, and these are decidedly slimming, as also are the wide flairs at’ the hem, contrasting as they do with the lesser width of the hiplinc. Godets, too, are useful to the stouter woman, and may be used to impart a more slender contour to either coat or frock.

Of bright gleaming coppt r satin, this lovely tunic over-blouse is extremely smart for formal afternoon and evening wear. To be worn over a rich brown satin skirt, which may have pleats with vandyke tops to follow the lines of the blouse. The inset

flares on the tunic are set in with close rows of shirring. The shoulders have the fullness shirred, and an inset to give a pouched effect is shirred to the “V” neckline. Kimono sleeves have lower puffed sleeves gathered to a tight cuff. The waistline is belted. -Y- * ¥

Blouses both tailored and fussy will continue their popularity. In white, oyster, and delicate, colours, georgette, satin, and crepe blouses and tunics are most useful additions to the wardrobe. Embroidered flannel waistcoats are to be very much the vogue. Worn over a plain fitting blouse of wool crepe or heavy silk, they will be both smart and cosy.

If you are making a simple wool frock and are inclined to be plump, tiny pin tucks, or two groups made on the wrong side at the front and back of the waistline. will give your frock a good line, ju.st above the waistline, and continue.! below. The same idea is often noticed at the back of the neckline of coats and frocks intended for those inclined to have a short, fat neck.

This illustrates a becoming coat frock of brown diagonal rough tweed trimmed with brown patent leather.' The skirt will be calf-length. Huntsman green ami black patent is another suggestion. Green is a lovely winter colour in the dark shades, but red and brown tonings seem to be more favoured. Many of the managers of the houses will tell you that

nothing on earth will persuade the ordinary British woman to choose green. The old superstition that “ after green you wear black ” still holds good, apparently. It is a pity, for there are some greens that look so well, and, anyway, why on earth should green prove fatal to a British woman (or her relatives) when the French woman can wear it with impunity ? At* Af*

A frock of checked wool jersey in beige and brown colouring I saw was worn with a short belted coat of brown corduroy. The velvet jacket, double-breasted and fastening to the side with knobbyleather buttons, was in real military style. Corduroy is going to be very fashionable —that old-fashioned, most durable of velvets, and the only one that does not “spot” in the rain. Suits, long coats, short jackets, and a matching beret in green, dark blue, or sturdy brown corduroy -will be popular everywhere.

This illustrates one of the new knit suits, so smart for town or shopping. These new knit suits simulate tailored suits in cut and material. The knit of this double-breasted, model looks much like the nubby monotone weaves. The skirt is calf-length, with well-pressed godets ■from the knees. A white pull-over jumper worn with the suit has stripes of red,

yellow, and brown, forming a narrow band of bright /trimming.’ The hat is worn

straight on the head, with the peak in the centre of the forehead.

Swagger for town and sports spectator is a qnepieee frock in a tiny cheek design, a knit of tones of green and black and white, worn with a cardigan jacket, a scarf, and a pancake hr ret. with black the predominating colour. A deep, strong •green with black is extremely smart, and a popular sports colour combination, shading from light to dark green. HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS. If a pinch rtf baking soda is put into the water when cooking greens, there will be no odour. ¥ rrWhen preparing a mustard plaster, use the white of an egg instead of water, and the plaster will not blister. * * * A solution of alum water —two ounces to the gallon—will render clothing washed in it non-inflammable. * * * Tomato juice removes ironmould on linen and cotton.

A few lumps of sugar added to the water in which a ham or a large piece of bacon is boiling will improve the flavour.

Fruit stains on table linen can be removed by making a little bag of the stained part and filling it with cream of tartar. Tie round and boil in soapsuds for a few minutes. Rinse in the usual way.

Doormats that have become very dusty should be laid face downwards, beaten with a stick until the loose dirt is removed, then scrubbed with a bass broom, using tepid water and salt (two tablespoonfuls to a pail of water), changing the water frequently. Dry thoroughly on a flat surface before replacing.

A.lump of soda dissolved'in blue water will prevent the blue from marking clothes.

Suet is a good medium for greasing cake tins; it is not so liable to burn, and makes some cakes come out easily.

When ironing embroidered pillow-cases and sheets, place a thick fold of towelling underneath, and press the embroidery on the wrong side; this brings up the raised pattern.

Bicarbonate of soda will take the pain out of a burn in a very short time. Afterwards a dressing of carron oil and lint is useful to keep out the air.

Onions will not make one weep if a little boiling water is poured over them before they are peeled.

-f- * ■ * lodine stains can be taken out of linen with very hot water and soda.

A weekly rub with vaseline will keep kitchen utensils in good condition whether they be of iron, -copper, or aluminium.

A burnt saucepan can be cleaned by boiling in it the peelings and cores of apples in a little water. After the mixture has boiled for a little while leave it to stand all night.

There will be less difficulty in removing a cork if a narrow strip of tape is placed underneath it before inserting it into the bottle. To remove the cork, pull the ends of the tape. Rub a little glycerine over the corks before inserting them into bottles that contain anything sticky. This will prevent the adhesive from hardening round the corks.

Corks that have been used for stopping bottles containing liquids with strong odours should not be used indiscriminately, or they may contaminate the contents of other bottles.

A sponge should never be allowed to contain soapy water when not in use, otherwise it will quickly become soft and slimy. To restore a sponge that has become slimy through the injudicious use of soap, squeeze it out several . times in cold water, to which a generous quantity of ammonia has been added.

W hen not in use, sponges should lie placed in a muslin bag and suspended;: from a nail in the open-air. ‘ Soap should never be applied-directly-to a sponge, as this tends to make it soft. It should be dipped into a soapy solution. -

Accidents will happen, even with something so delicious as ice-cream, and tears are shed over pretty, things spoiled by u oly; marks. They, need not b'e permanently spoiled, however. If the soiled part is placed under running cold water as quickly as possible before being washed, in a nice warm lather, there, is-no reason why the little garment should not las restored to its original freshness. This, of course, refers to garments made of washable material—the kind of garments which a n wise mothers will let their children wear.

Most people are alive to the value of good health and many are seeking ip. Good health may be obtained by the observance of the first law of healthcleanliness. This is easy to practise day by day, and only requires courage and perseverance. It is true that there is still room for great improvement in the a rrangements made in houses and work places, but people of courage can overcome these difficult its and by their example influence their neighbours in the love of cleanliness. Where there is no bath the instalment system can be used, whereby the upjier part of the body is washed with warm water and soap and then the lower part. This daily wash all over will invigorate and tone up the body. Many children are now growing up with quite a decided bias in favour of cleanliness, which, it is hoped, will be inain’aiued throughout their lives, as cleanliness makes for happiness, health, and success.

M here there is dirt there is danger 1 \\ hen a sound skin is damaged by a prick, scratch, or graze, dirt is likely, to get in, and this gives rise to inflammation and sores of one kind and another. A wound may fester and thus may be very infectious, particularly among children. Such a condition, however, is less likely to arise if the skin is always well washed, but when any such troubles do occur the sores should be well bathed with hot water, to which a little mild disinfectant has been added. Then cover the sores with a clean rag dusted with boracic powder. A slight injury will 9,’ l '. c ' < L v i* ea l xvith simple bathing, but if it is desired a good healing ointment may be used. HOME INTERESTS. SALMON CURRY. This makes a nice change. Stand a tin of salmon in a saucepan of boiling water for 20 minutes; separate liquor from salmon ; mix one dessertspoonful of cornflour, half a dessertspoonful of curry powder, one cup ol milk, little pepper and salt, with the liquor. Pour over the salmon. Serve hot on 'dish garnished with boiled rice. SALMON PUDDING. Take Jib of tinned salmon. 2oz of butter, two eggs, a breakfastcupful of breadcrumbs soaked in milk. Beat salmon in a mortar. Add a little chopped parsleys little cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste. Mix all together ; put into basin, bake it. and turn out. Serve with parsley sauce or lobster. PEAR SALAD. Use canned halves of pears for this salad. Place a half (cut side up) in a bed of crisp lettuce. Fill the centre (not quite full) with thick peanut butter dressing. Be sure and use the roasted nut butter, thinned with a little sweet cream. Place the other hall of the pear over the half containing the dressing, cut side down, forming a whole pear. A clove may be used to represent the stem, and a further decorative effect may be given by adding a touch of red colouring with the finger tip to the outside of the top pear, blending it in well. HONEY PUDDING. Required : Two or three tablespoonfuls o.t honey, 3oz of breadcrumbs, 3oz of ~ flour, .'lb of margarine, uoz of caster sugar, barely a quarter of a flat teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, two eggs, milk. Grease a basin and put the honey in the bottom of it. Sieve the Hour with the carbonate of soda, then mix with the breadcrumbs. Cream the fat and sugar. Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks into the creamed tat and sugar, then stir in the flour and breadcrumbs with some milk as required. Whisk the egg whites to a stiff froth and fold in lightly. Turn into the prepared basin, cover securely with a well-greased paper, and steam about one hour and a-half. (Sufficient for six or eight persons.) PINEAPPLE SUET PUDDING. Required : Large tin of pineapple, Jib of flour. Jib of breadcrumbs, Jib of suet, some Demerara sugar, Jib of granulated sugar. Drain the syrup front the pineapple and put the fruit through the mincer. Chop the suet finely. Make the breadcrumbs and mix with the flour and suet, add the granulated sugar and minced pineapple, and mix ail together. Grease a pudding basin and coat it with Demerara sugar, turn the prepared mixture into it, cover with greased paper, and steam for two and a-half to three hours. (Sufficient for six to eight persons.) TOMATO JELLY. Required : Six pounds of tomatoes, three large lemons, and some sugar. Cut up the tomatoes, put them into a pan with the rind of the lemons, and beat gradually, so that the juice runs out well. Simmer for a few minutes, then strain through a jelly bag. Boil up the juice, add 11b of sugar to each pint, and the Juice of the lemons, and boil together until jelly sets when tested. CUCUMBERS AND EGGS. Take two large cucumbers, one and a-half pints of white sauce, three hard-boiled eggs, one tablespoonful of grated cheese, as many croutes of fried bread, and rolls of rice as there are pieces of cucumber, salt and pepper. Pare cucumbers and cut in pieces about 3in in length.. Remove centres and stand on end in a saucepan with a little stock or water. Cover closely and simmer gently until tender (15 to 20 minutes). Rub yolk of one egg through a sieve and put it aside. Cut the remainder of the eggs into diee, add them to half a pint of hot white sauce, and when ready for use stir in the grated cheese. Have the rice rolls nicely tried and the cucumber drained, and on croutes of fried bread, ready to receive the mixture, which should be pressed lightly in, piled rather high and garnished with yolk of egg. Dish in two close rows, arrange the rice rolls overlapping each other round •lie base, and serve the remainder of sauce in a sauceboat.

FRIED CUCUMBERS. Pare two to three cucumbers, and cut them in slices, commencing from the thick end, and not the stalk end of the cucumber. Wipe the slices dry, dredge with flour, and place in pan of boiling oil or butter. Keep turning till brown, lift out, drain and serve piled lightly on a dish. MOCK WHITEBAIT. Required : Two or three mullet (in fillets), one dessertspoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, pepper, mixed on a plate, lemon juice, parsley, white sauce, squares of buttered toast, rolls of grilled bacon, it liked. Cut the fillets across (slanting) in thin strips, I I thus; put into the flour, etc., tossing about well to ensure the covering of flour, etc. Butter a piedish well. Add fish. Squeeze lemon juice over, add three tablespoonfuls of water. Cover with well-greased paper and cook in moderate oven 15 to IS minutes. Meanwhile, make the sauce, which should be rather thick; also make the toast. Keep it hot. liquid from piedish into the sauce. Pile fish up on the toast, mask w’ith the sauce. Garnish with quarters of lemon slices arranged like butterflies, using thick parsley for the “ bodv ” and “ lemon ” for wings. N.B.—The rolls of bacon may be threaded on skewers, or sharpened matches, and will cook well on top of the paper covering the fish. BAKED FISH. Choose a nice large fish, such as a perch, trumpeter, or schnapper; prepare it for cooking, wrap well in buttered paper, place in a baking dish, cook in a hot oven for 20 minutes. Remove paper. Pour over it a prepared white sauce; garnish with parsley and hard-boiled egg.