IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 4042, 1 September 1931, Page 58

IN FASHION’S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

By

Marguerite.

The interest in spring fashions at the moment lies in ensembles and jacket suits. The ensemble of two or three pieces is still a most popular form of dress. It may consist of a frock and long coat or a skirt, jumper or blouse, and three-quarter-length coat. These need not all be of the same material, but they must be of the same colour, though different shades may be used to get the smart effect, whether the ensemble be for general wear or smart afternoon wear. The tailor-made suit is shown in a variety of styles. The ultra-smart models are fitted to the waist and have basques with more or less flare. The hip-length jacket is the most fashionable, whether it be the semi-fitted style or the doublebreasted type. The straight cardigan style of coat is often made dressy by being drawn into the waist with a few short tucks each side of the front. A flecked tweed suit of the smartest cut has a skirt of several gores which fit perfectly on. the hips. With it is worn a cardigan with a straight collar Laced with plain cloth, which also forms the straps that are carried round all the edges. The cardigan in its simple straight style is immensely popular both as an adjunct to a frock or to a skirt and blouse. Fine cloth, kasha, and heavy crepes are the usual materials, the new mixture tweed of silk and wool and all silk with tweed effect being used for many smart suits. Silk pique or corded silk will be very popular for suits when, the days are warmer, as will gay little tailored suits of summery floral silks. The collarless coat is fashionable, since it admits of a change of neck decorations, a brightcoloured scarf or silk collar and cuffs. Floral or spotted silk sets are very attractive. Or a lingerie collar or -fichu may be drawn out from the blouse to lie over the coat shoulders. A smart and youthful touch may be given by these soft effects to the most severe tailored suit. Alost coats show more or less open fronts to display a waistcoat. Waistcoats are to be a leading feature in spring fashions and will give a picturesque note to many a tailored suit. They are made in silk or cotton pique, washing satin, and heavy crepe de chine. The majority are just fronts kept in place by a waist elastic joined to a short net back. One pretty model wraps over in a point below the “ ” neck, and is finished by a tapering roll collar and a decorative button fixing the points. The sleeveless blouse often takes the place ofc a vest, and is generally finished prettily in front with frills and jabots. Blouses of all kinds are worn, from those with high necks and linked cuffs to the most elaborate satin and silk embroidered overblouses. The blouse lias certainly come to stay during the coming season, and designers are turning out some really delightful models in lacetrimmed or embroidered muslin of the finest texture, and plain and embroidered georgette in pastel colours for afternoon wear. Coloured linen blouses tucked and worked with drawn threads, embroidered, and stitched are worn in the morning. One simply cannot go wrong with a handworked blouse showing eyelet-holes, pintucking, peasant embroidery, little frillings, or rows and rows of crisp Valenciennes lace. Alany are made with short sleeves ending midway between elbow and armhole. Some are sleeveless, whilst a novel form of circular-cut short sleeves hangs full from the armhole and is

prettily cut up in the centre nearly to the seam. One thing that mak«-’S the modern blouse such a favourite is the tidy way in which the waist of both blouse and skirt are finished, so that there is no fear of an untidy waist.

This illustrates a smart model for street and. afternoon wear —a chic redingote model of flat crepe. The navy-.redingote removed reveals a delightful frock of ciel blue Canton crepe for formal wear —a graceful and lovelj- modern fashion. An economical idea is to have two frocks in

the same colour—one silk for smart occasions and one woo] to wear under the same matching coat —with two hats, one pair of gloves, shoes, and stockings. By means of a change of dress and hat only the wearer can be suitably equipped for many occasions. Another favourite two-in-one is a figured silk dress to be worn under a long, light woollen coat of redingote cut lined with the dress material. A big bow of the silk may be placed at the neck of the coat. “ The ensemble mode ” is as smart as the new season itself. * ¥ ¥ This illustrates a smart afternoon frock .showing the vogue for lace yokes, which are to be much favoured. The frock is of brown flat crepe and beige lace, with the skirt moulded to the knees and flaring to the hemline. The belt is plaited beige braid fastened with n

jewelled buckle. Another suggestion is a frock of light navy flat crepe with yoke and sleeves of silk embroidered all over with eyeletwork and a prettily contrasting colour showing through the holes. The hat will repeat the contrasting touch or be inlet with the silk eyeletwork.

One of the most effective fashions this season is the combining of two materials or two colours. A simple but very attractive frock has a bodice of crepe de chine in a soft shade of brown to which is attached a skirt of marocain of the same tone. The bodice is cut long and forms a point in the centre front that gives the effect of a yoke joined to- the skirt, which is set in well-wrapped pleats below the point and is otherwise quite straight. To complete the ensemble is a little bolero jacket of the marocain with a long roll collar to the waist. Several rows of silk machine stitching give a finishing touch on all edges. Rows of machine stitching are now s?en on the hems of skirts and outline the jackets that accompany them, the stitching either matching the material or contrasting with it. Another attractive frock of printed silk is finished with a cute little loosefitting bolero jacket in the exact toning of the brown background of the frock. The sleeves end just below the elbow to show the lower pouch of the sleeve of the frock. The straw hat repeats the colour of the bolero with a single jewel ornament of yellow topaz, the colour of the print. It is thus that the modem designers artistically introduce the coloup note.

This illustrates a becoming frock of grey Canton crepe. The cowl neckline and gauntlet cuffs arc embroidered with silks in delicate blues and grey. Amber

Canton crepe embroidered with yellow and brown silks is another suggestion.

The down-on-one-side hat may have a feather quill trim. This is becoming for the smart matron. * * ¥ Felts will disappear with our winter coats. Even the summer variety will be overlooked for a variety of straws, mottled, plain, and in a number of different materials, for sports wear, shantung, linen, and pique. Pretty youthful hate are a welcome change to the felts we have had so much of. The smart Watteau

brim line is featured in this’attractive black and white hat of panamalaque. Extremely chic is the other hat of eldar rose baku. Note the folded brim and the tiny French coloured curled quills placed at its edge. A natural baku hat may be trimmed with a posy of small rosebuds. •X* In a black and white ensemble I saw the black flat crepe skirt and three-quarter-length coat was completed with a high-necked oyster silk blouse fastened with a close row of small brass buttons, i a glossy black straw turban, black gauntlet gloves strapped with white, gunmetal hose, and the finest of black kid shoes showing white pipings. A black patent leather handbag completed a smart outfit for the older woman. A close row of pearl drop or crystal buttons may trim the high-necked severe tailored blouses.