IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3972, 29 April 1930, Page 60

IN FASHION’S REALM.

By Marguerite

UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

(Special for the Otago Witness.) If one finds the weather too hot in summer time for strenuous sports, the bracing air of winter days is ideal for outdoor sports of all kinds. The apparel must be the first consideration. Now is a time when charming new clothes are worn by all smart women. The most popular this season are the knitted costumes. There are to be ever so many knitted costumes seen on the golf courses, .and when the knitted clothes are not worn it is the jersey J costume, lovely soft jersey, or knitted attire takes the lead. The most important thing to remember is that to watch sports this season is distinctly different from participating in them. There is the actual golf costume and the more feminine spectator sports apparel. It is utterly simple, but just a wee bit more formal. It is all individual with each. There are skirts and jackets, cardigans, and slip-on jumpers, making a smart ensemble in various combinations of colours and shades—sometimes three shades of one certain colour. And there are also one-piece frocks, with the waistline at normal or almost normal. The one-piece woollen frock will be most popular. Although the styles are varied, there are two outstanding notes—fullness and the lengthened skirt. The skirt hem must be below the knees, and some of the designers show a skirt four inches below the knees. The fullness is witli pleats or a low flare: it is a fullness that still maintains the slender silhouette and the, snug-fitting hip fine. lhe top coats to be worn over the sweater are short, three-quarter length, or long. They are of all lengths amf in all kinds of sports fabrics manufactured in rich warm colours, tweeds and fur There is quite a lot of flat sports fur this season. But the most chic coat of all for wet and damp weather and the cold, windy days of winter is the leather coat. There is no coat so practical and becoming as a coloured feather coat, or you may prefer one brown or black, very modish, lined with flannel, belted, and double breasted.

And there are scarves. No sports ensemble is complete without a scarf of thick printed silk. A Paisley design is smart or one hand knitted. Golf socks, with flat-heeled shoes or semi-sport Oxfordettes. and pigskin golf gloves are worn. Felt sports hats have bands the colour of the shoes and socks. Ever so many berets and tarns will be worn. The new ankle socks are shown with and without the turn-over cuff, the latter, when it appears, being of a plain contrasting colour. Stiped or variegated cuff designs are little favoured. Ankle socks to match the sweater are to be worn, and will look smart provided the colours are not too startling. Stockings in cashmere, and for the real’ cold days all wool hose, will be worn with a double turnover in brown beige and heather- mixture colours.

Sports colours for golf enthusiasts will strike a gay note of contrast to the little'

while golf balls—green, bright blue, all the brown shades, yellow, rose to dark, red, grey, and cream. Unusual tones are to be blended, such as yellow and dull green, cream, beige, and dark red. Smart , charming colour combinations are light and dark beige with brown, three tones ot rose with cream, three tones o£ grey and creamy yellow, or a touch o£ 1 c C • 111 " erct an< l scarf border. Some definite colour scheme must be observed tor true smartness. Cream with a. colour will be in good taste, and is to be preferred to some of the combinations;’ it is sometimes difficult to procure harmonising colours for band-knitted garments and accesories, so use a vivid colour and cream. ” 1

This illustrates a sports spectator suit, a smart model ot tweed in a. brown nuxtiirc. J.he skirt is trimmed with a banding of plain dark brown fabric, witli the belt and coat cuffs to match. The tuck-in blouse is of cream fancy jersey in a delightfully fine weave like soft tweed-patterned jersey. Noto that the blouse is not pulled down flatly; it haft a bloused ’ effect. This is the vogue!

Even if you wear a jumper there must be case and a certain looseness, which gives a straight line from the shoulders to the skirt. lhe coat is loose fittin", three-quarter length, and has the fashionable full-length tuxedo collar of dark beaver. The figure is wearing one of the new skull caps of silk tricot. The ensemble is also for street wear, as all spectator sports ensembles are. * At ¥

Tweed-patterned jersey is used for tailored suits and ensembles. These are usually accompanied by a scarf and stitched hat, bet et, or tain of the same material. A slip-on sweater is generally of Angora'' and the three-quarter-length coat may be' of Angora.

A cry effective in the form of are hand-worked trimmings made in the simple chain or couching lines, opeq buttonhole, or crochet picot, worked with Angora and other wools and somewhat coarse silk. On jersey Angora with its ’ T l “- V surface looks very smart. Then circularly cut frills and godets may be edged with open buttonholes worked ■yvit-li wool. In fact this simple stitchery in silk is used for finishing all kinds of dainty fabrics in place of machine picot edge, a fact that will appeal to many clever needlewomen. The little sleeveless coatee that will accompany many of the winter frocks can be decorated by hand with wool, no matter whether the fabric is silk or wool. Narrow silk braid is also formed into scallops and vandykes to edge collars, cuffs, scarves, and even shaped flounces. _ Wooden beads threaded on fine silk braid are used in the same yay. _lt is a season of hand-worked trimmings from simple to elaborate forms.

This illustrates one of the one-piece sports woollen frocks of sports fabric, rough woollen texture, in tone of red. grey, and brown, one of the unusual colour combinations. The frock is simply made. The side pleats in the skirt give

the necessary fullness. A I'ong scarf is smartly modish, draped round the neck-

line with the ends attached at centre front under a tab of material. The scarf will be draped to show the red Stripe, which is shown by the dark lines. ’A red beret completes the chic effect. If. the brown stripe is preferred, wear a sports felt hat in brown with a red band, brown shoes and topcoat, and a red cardigan for cold days.

Some of the fashion parades abroad are different from those shown at our shops. At a recent show held recently a. mannequin had a shapeless piece of velvet fitted on her head by a weilknown milliner, who in a few minutes jvith the aid of a few pins had patted and drawn the velvet into the newest of turbans. Other firms build their frocks in view' of the audience. A famous designer “ took the floor ” with a roll of satin and a mannequin garbed in a princess petticoat. With seeming rashness he tore the material into lengths and strips, twisted with deft fingers this way land that, and in an almost unbelievably short space of time the mannequin stood ready for smart evening festivities. It may be the way abroad, where all the great designers live, but our exclusive models are either imported or copied, so we are accustomed to see mannequins display the garments ready to wear. Programmes tell one the names of different colours and shades and incidentally the price of the frock or ensemble.

This illustrates the new fur cap and puff. The cap is a tight-fitting shape pf brown lapin. simply trimmed with a narrow band of two-toned beige lapin. The two-toned beige lapin makes the muff.

All muffs are tiny, round fur trifles, as in the illustration, and are to accompany p. brown lapin coat or brown tweed ensemble trimmed w'ith fur. They are modish and warm for winter days, streets or sports, and youthful.

A delightful ensemble seen recently was a duck egg blue Sedan cloth tailored model short coat and flared skirt, the feminine blouse being of cream crepe georgette w-ith a double frilling down the front having scalloped edges, the scallops being piped with duck egg blue crepe georgette. Tiny blue buttons, very close together, were sewn down the centre Of the frills. A model in oatmeal and black with a rough tweed skirt with side pleats and a blouse of cream delaine, and a coat three-quarter length of a heavier make in oatmeal and black tweed, made collarless,-and drawn together by a w-ide black patent leather belt, was also seen.

A new style of beret is shown here of navy felt, with appliqued leather trim in tones of sun-tan, beige, and light navy. It is for sports and to accompany a leather coat. The top shoe is something new for sports and damp weather wear, of waterporof fabric, combined with brown leather and a crepe sole. This is indeed a clever idea for winter wear —a

waterproof fabric. The bottom shoe is for street wear or a sports spectator, and is in a new design of brown kid and matching lizard fastened in the centre of the high strap by a brown metal buckle. The same style of shoe is to be had in bottle green kid and dyed green lizard, with a modern heel, to accompany the ensemble.