A PICTURESQUE WELCOME.

Otago Witness, Issue 3808, 8 March 1927, Page 16

A PICTURESQUE WELCOME.

OLD CUSTOMS REVIVED. TOUCH OF REAL SAVAGERY ROTORUA, February 28. Beyotid doubt the Maori welcome to the Duke and Duchess at Arawa Park was a great success, and very creditable indeed to the goodwill and good sense of the Native people. By reviving some of their * former customs and showing also their present enlightenment the Natives paid a better tribute to the Throne than in any other way in their power. Probably more than 3000 Maoris, including representatives from all parts of New Zealand, were accommodated in the enclosure. Ihe performers, numbering several hundreds, had places allotted to them, forming three sides of a square, while the visiting and loyal Maoris-were massed between the performers and the enclosing fence. All were seated on the ground in true Native fashion. On the side of the high platform erected in front of the grandstand for the Royal party much space was set apart for a large party of petty officers and men from H.M.S. Renown, who had arrived a little earlier by special train. The ship’s band on the other side played some very enjoyable music. The whole function had been arranged according to the ceremonial observed in the old days, when the chiefs of the same tribe visited those of another. There was the welcome at the pa gate, then the presentation of gifts, and lastly an entertainment of singing and dancing by both men and women. Only the usual long speeches and feasting were omitted. In place of the orations was the presentation of an address to the Duke and Duchess, and the Duke’s reply fitted quite naturally.

ROYALTY’S ARRIVAL. At a quarter to 10 distant cheering announced the, arrival of the Duke and Duchess outside tlie enclosure. The Royal party was met by the Native Minister, the Riglit Hon. J. G- Coates. Mrs Coates, Sir Maui Pomare, and the Chief Marshal, Dr P. Buck (Te Rangihiroa). Mr and Mrs Coates and Sir Maui all wore fine mats about their shoulders. The Duke was. in naval uniform, and the Duchess looked charming in pale pink as they stood within the gite' with the Ministers. Two Maori officers in khaki took up their station, one on each flank, bearins silk Union Jacks. THE WELCOMING PARTY. The first welcoming party of nearly 100 men and women, all drawn from the Arawas, was massed opposite the entrance gate. The black-dressed women were in front, their heads wreathed with greenery, and green branches in their hands—an old sign of welcome. The men behind were stripped to the waist, and wore girdles of flax streamers, as did the women. As soon as the Royal party halted within the gate a chosen spokesman. ferocious in painted tatoo and armed with a taiaha, advanced to give the challenge. Doubtless he was. a soldier of the late war, for his piupiurhung from a leather belt covered with brass regimental -badges. He advanced .with curious sidling steps and occasional grimaces, now and then almost turning his b.+ck upon the visitors. As he did so he made vigorous swings with, the taiaha. The Duchess, who must have been , forewarned, watched the approach of this savage figure without dismay, and even appeared to smile a little. The spokesman, with more passes of his weapon, retreated. The Royal party advanced a little, and the dance of welcome began. It was a combination of singing, wild shouts, and riasyements in unison. In some passages the men held their staves horizontally over their heads, and both men and women gave vent to a succession of lou<l gasping coughs. The rhythm- of the whole thing was plainly, in the true Maori tradition, faithfully kept by ’the performers, who were nearly all people in middle life. . . -

Having done k their part, the Arawas moved off to a flank out of the way, allow-

ing the Duke and Duchess to advance • towards the front of the grandstand. they were challenged by a war party from two other tribes—the Tuhouof Whakarewarewa, and the Ngati of Taupo. Again a spokescame forward, taiaha in hand. His < face also was painted to represent a , tattoo, and he wore across his bare chest £ a sash of woven flax gaily patterned in <7 orange and black. If possible, his posturing and staff play were even more ic-j ferocious than those of the Arawa man. The figure he presented might have stepped out of one of the drawings by which G. F. Angas, Major-general Robley, • ’' and others sought to depict the primitive > Maori as they saw him. The war dance that followed was of the same order. The war party, 50 or 60 strong, leaped high into the air as one man, descending with ’ a single dull thud which would have been ■ louder if the dance had been executed on the bare earth of a village square instead of a racecourse lawn. The gestures, the waving of weapons, and the very grimaces were in perfect unison. At the end of each cycle of movements the whole war party came down unexpectedly into a kneeling position, and there was a brief pause, filled •with loud hand-clapping from the hundreds of European spectators. It was a peice of real savagery, and at the same time a piece of fine acting by men as far removed from barbarism as any on earth. It did not last long, for no one but a primitive savage could keep up such strenuous exertion for more than a few minutes. Short as it was, the dance was something which those who saw it will remember for many years. It may be long before such another is given in New Zealand. THE ENTERTAINMENT PROPER. The Renown’s band played the National Anthem, and the Duke and Duchess mounted the platform prepared for them. Handsome mats were fastened about their shoulders by Lady Pomaie, and each received a black and white feather, typifying the huia feather now too rare even for a gift to Royalty. The Duke placed his in the band of his naval cap, and the Duchess had her’s fastened to her hat. The presentation of the address followed, and then the entertainment proper opened with a haka by men from the Matatua tribe, whose territory extends along the shore of the Bay of Plenty from Matata eastward, and includes the Urewera Country. The sub-tribes represented were the Ngatiawa, Tuhoe, Whakitohea, and Ngaiterangi. It was a vigorous performance with many grimaces and much slaping of the right biceps. Several middleaged women.were with the party, and provided a scene of comic relief by making faces at intervals for the benefit of the crowd in the rear as well as in front. One old man bore a large Union Jack, which he laid on the ground while the dance was in progress. The same Taupo and Whakarewarewa who had performed the war dance now gave a haka. They were dressed in a nearer approach to the old-time fashion, and were accompanied by several women fully garbed in mats- and carrying weapons of various sorts. It was a brief performance, but was marked by the same fine finish as the war dance. It was quite clear that these men had been carefully trained by someone with an unusual knowledge of the old ways. Among the words of the kaka it was possible to each a reference to Te Tuke, indicating that they had been composed for the occasion. MAORI WOMEN’S PART. So far the men had had all the entertainment to themselves. It was an old Maori rule that-a party of warriors should never allow women to assemble in front of it, hence the poi dances were kept to the latter part of the programme. Twenty girls from the Matatua tribe, remarkably alike in height and general appearance, performed the first poi with really wonderful precision. It included a canoe poi, and a thin grey-haired woman with a carved paddle impersonating the steersman. A party from the Tuohoe tribe (Urewera), including three or four elfish little girls, executed a poij’ using very long strings. Next the Whakerewarewa women, led by Bella, the well-known guide, combined a poi with much very beautiful singing. A much smaller party of girls from the Tapuika tribe (Te Puke), accompanied by guitar players, gave a very varied and original poi. This appeared to have very special merit, for sounds of approval came from the Native spectators all round the circle. It ended - with some movements a little like those of the Hawaiian hula. The last item on the programme was a massed poi by 50 women and girls of the Ngatiwhakane sub-tribe (Ohinemutu). This had a special significance in that it was intended to commemorate the many soldiers from this people who had been killed in the war. Whereas the other performers had been dressed in salmon pink, heliotrope, green, and other bright colours, these wore black with blue sashes. A mixed choir stood in the rear of the dancers, and behind the choir many old men and women of the tribe assembled, while the* girls swung their z pois. All joined in a plaintive chorus. The first verse was an exhortation to come and bring evidences of affection for the Duke and Duchess. The second asked the same tribute for those loved ones who had been killed by the Germans. The music throughout had little of the usual gaiety, but not even the serious purpose could prevent some of the girls and older women from showing their enjoyment. This was the end. The Duke and Duchess came down from their dias, and escorted by the Prime Minister, moved slowly among the seated people, stopping now and then to speak to someone of special note. Several little mementoes, such as pois, were handed to them. Some of the women struck up a well-known Maori song of farewell, and more of both

sexes took it up. Whenever the Royal couple paused to speak to anyone the singing also stopped, continuing when they moved on. It was a rather touching good-bye. A CHARMING ACT. REMEMBRANCE BY DUCHESS AN EX-SOLDIER ENTERTAINED. AUCKLAND, February 28. How many New Zealand soldiers, of those who spent their leave in Scotland during the war, had the privilege of an invitation to Glamis Castle is recorded only- in the visitors’ book of that historic Highland home, but those who went there are learning that besides having found a welcome as warm as only a Highland welcome can be, not one of them has been forgotten by the bright-eyed little brunette, then in her teens, -who was the pride of a noble household, and who is now the Duchess of York. When one Auckland man, a major at the time, signed his name in the visitors' book at Glamis he counted on no sequel but a memory that would mellow with the years. A letter from Government House at Auckland the other day disabused his mind, however. It said that the Duchess of York would to renew her wartime acquaintance over a cup of tea. The ex-major quickly found that her higher station had not changed the unaffected and winsome daughter of Glamis he met a decade ago, except that she was more charming, more natural, and more beautiful. “I shall never forget your tunes on the violin,” said the Duchess in the course of the conversation. “I was astonished at her recalling that so readily,” the ex-major remarked afterwards. “There were three of us at the castle, and I used often to play the violin during the delightful evenings we had there, but I did not expect her to remember which one of the three was the minstrel, or, indeed, that she would remember any of us individually. It was long ago, and in those War years there were many soldier guests at Glamis, and the girl who charmed uk all had ever so much to do.” The major feels that he is one of the many ex-soldiers throughout the country who will find that the young lady they met at Glamis was not just a fairweather friend. FISHING EXCURSION. BEAU TIFULLY SITUATED CAMP. TOKAANU, February 28. The journey of the Duke and Duchess of York from Rotorua to Takaanu was accomplished under ideal conditions. Bright sunshine and clear skies were in every direction, with just enough breeze stirring to temper the heat of the sun most agreeably. Added to this, yesterday’s rain has practically eliminated dust, the- roads being in excellent order. Promptly at 2 o’clock a fleet of 15 cars filed away from the Grand Hotel, Rotorua, a large. crowd of people waching to catch a last glimpse of the Duke and Duchess. Both were clad in serviceable grey. A police car led, and then came the Royal car, fallowed by members of the suite. A PICTURESQUE ROUTE. The route gave the visitors an interesting example of afforestation work on a massed scale, as miles of plantation containing millions of trees were passed in the Whaka area. Then the Kaingaroa Plain was traversed, occasional homesteads appearing. In the Reporoa soldier settlement and at each of the infrequent cross roads were little groups of settlers and families, or parties of Maoris intent upon a passing view of Royalty. The sacred mountain of Tauhare now raised its bulk above the horizon, surmounted by three cones enclosing a volcanic crater long since discharged from active service, possibly since the youthful days of the world, when Te Ika Maui had not yet become accustomed to the alterations of the day and night, and was subject to cataclysmic mutations to which the many thermal activities of to-day remain, along with the fissures, and “faults” in the earth’s surface as evidence. TEMPORARY HALTS. At 4.45 VVairakei was reached, and stay was made for afternoon tea. The Duke and Duchess visited the big bath in the hotel grounds, but coud not look around the valley’s natural wonders for lack of time. The road claimed the travellers again at 5.45, for a 30 odd miles run, which took them quickly away trom the drab sameness of grey plain with its background of grey hills east and south, with Tarawera’s mighty shoulders uplifted to the north, and the rugged hills shutting out the view to the- west. A brief halt was made at the Huka Falls, where the tourists gazed in wonder upon the turbulent rushing water crowded into the narrow defile. The green waters were churned to a fleecy welter before they plunged into the pool below. IN VOLCANIC, COUNTR Y. Taupo was passed in the gathering dusk, and later the shore was skirted for most of the rest of the journey, except where the road followed an eerie canyon-like cut through the ridge. This was Earthquake Valley, which was so named because it is particularly subject to seismic unrest. Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe (with its plums of steam showing clear against the western sky) had been in sight some time, and the sunset effects on the mountain would have made an artist foreswear all urban amenities to stay here and put them on canvas if lie could. Afto* crossing the bridge over the Tongariro River, the pro-

cession split up, the Ducal car continuing on, and the balance going to the Tokaanu Hotel. AN IDEAL CAMP. The camp in which the Royal couple will quarter with their immediate personal staff is beautifully situated in a lovely forest glade on the bank of the Tongariro River. The shelters are all of canvas, with wooden floors, and the little encampment is embodied in a grove of koutai trees, a few mighty kahikatea (white pine) rising sentinel-like above them, while the whole is environed by other, native bush. The spot is completely sequestered, and lies about six miles from tne hotel, which is the only near settlement. The sight which met the eyes of the Royal visitors when they reached camp about 3.30 p.m. was a welcome one after the strenuous day. In the middle of the glade opposite the door of their particular tent blazed a huge fire of logs, sending out a big ruddy glare upon the verdure all around, so that it appeared to be a pity the electric light had been installed to spoil the sylvan simplicity of the scene. No time was lost m settling in this temporary home. A belated dinner was served, and after a brief contemplation of the peaceful scene, so far removed from the madding crowd, the visitors retired to rise fresh in the morning for the fishing in the Tongariro River.