GARDEN & ORCHARD.

Otago Witness, Issue 3804, 8 February 1927, Page 11

GARDEN & ORCHARD.

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

By

D. Tannock.

THE GREENHOUSE AND NURSERY Tuberous begonias should now be about their best, and they will require constant attention to prolong their season. Keep the side flowers pinched off from time to time, pick off the old flowers as soon as they begin to wither, and stake up the large heavy double flowers with wires- or thin, neat bamboos to show them to advantage. Those growing in hanging baskets will require a little weak liquid manure twice a week, and the pot ones once a week in the meantime. Seedlings which were potted up are growing rapidly, and those planted out in frames can be gradually hardened off and accustomed to open air conditions. Mark the most desirable varieties for pot cultivation. next season. This is a very busy time in the nursery or reserve department. Bulbs have to be lifted and sorted out, primulas, cinerarias, and calceolarias have to be potted on as they develop; and the old corms of cyclamen, which were placed under the greenhouse bench to rest, can be stood up and watered once to start them into growth. Pelargoniums and geraniums, which were placed outside to ripen off, can now be cut over and the cuttings put into pots or boxes. As it will soon be the time to pot or box up bulbs for forcing, these should be ordered as soon as possible. THE FLOWER GARDEN. The second crop of roses is coming on, and a certain amount of thinning has to be done if good blooms are desired. Spray regularly for mildew, cut away the old flower stems on the ramblers as soon as they are past their best, and tie in the young growths. Dahlias are coming on rapidly, and-to keep them flowering the old blooms have to be picked off regularly, the growths thinned out, and the shoots looped up to the stakes. Plant out Canterburyßells and other biennials in groups ir the mixed borders, and keep sweet peas from setting seed. THE FRUIT AND VEGETABLE GARDEN. Continue to plant out broccoli and cabbage for winter and spring, to sow lettuce and spinach to provide a succession, and to keep the soil stirred among growing crops. Cut away the old raspberry canes as soon as they have finished fruiting, and thing out the young growths, should too many arise from each stool. THE GLADIOLUS. Gladioli have increased in popularity during recent years, and they are nqw grown extensively throughout the Dominion from Auckland to the Bluff, and are apparently doing equally well under very varied soil and climatic conditions. Much of this increased interest is due to the introduction of a new race obtained by ■ crossing Gladiolus primulinus with tho large-flowered garden varieties. Gladiolus primulinus, which is known in its native haunts (south-east tropical Africa) as “Maid of the Mist,” was found growing in the gorge of the Zambesi, just below the Victoria Falls, where it is constantly drenched with spray. This species, though small and not very showy, had a few gracefully-hooded flowers well spaced on a thin stem, these being yellow or primrose yellow in colour. By crossing this species with the garden varieties, we have increased the size of the flowers and obtained all the wonderful salmon, pink, aprioot, and copper shades, retaining the . . hooded form, the spacing of the individual flowers, and the thin, wiry stem. This race is equally as useful as the old kinds for growing in the garden and far more useful for fliouse decoration, but not quite as useful for exhibition purposes.

The Primulinus hybrids have also the advantage of being very hardy, being easy to raise from seed, and increasing very rapidly. Strictly speaking, tho gladiolus is an early autumn . flower, but by planting early and continuing plantings at intervals of a fortnight the season can be extended from early summer until late autumn. Gladioli like a deep, rich soil and a warm, sheltered position, and some fine effects can be obtained by growing them _in borders with a suitable carpeting plant such as Nepeta mussini, or Phlox Drummondi or an early maturing crop of nemesia, which begins the display early and carries on until the gladioli are at their best. They are also effective as groups in the herbaceous border, and are excellent for brightening up the iris garden in the late summer when the bearded iris are past. Though the Primuliiftis hybrids will stand up to a moderate breeze, it is better to provide the large flowered kinds with some support, which may be a neat bamboo stake, or if they are planted in rows a stout string or wire can be stretched along from end to end and the stems fastened to it.

When growing large spikes for exhibition purposes it is not unusual to enclose •• them in a long box with a sheet of glass on one side, and as flowers develop the lower end is shaded to keep them fresh, while those higher up open out. As cut flowers the gladioli are excellent, and if cut when the lower flowers open, they will continue to develop right up, if the old ones are removed as soon as they wither, and a little piece of the stem is cut off from time to time.

Gladioli can be grown quite easily from seed, and as they flower in a year or so from seed sowing there is no long wait to obtain results. Though thev produce quantities of seed without any special attention, the best results are obtained by selecting the seed and the pollen-bearing parents, and hand-fertilising them. This is quite easy for all the parts are very evident, and the anthers of the seed-bear-ing flowers should be removed before they burst and liberate their pollen. When the flowers are fully expanded the stigmas are ready. Pollen should be brought from a fully developed flower of the most desirable variety and dusted over them. This can be done from time to time until about six flowers are pollenated. care being taken to mark the variety with a paper or other label. When the seed capsules are fully developed and begin to change colour, they can be collected while still attached to the stem, and put into a paper bag to complete the ripening process. They can be sown in the autumn or in spring on a well-drained border, in the open, or in boxes and encouraged to grow as rapidly as possible the first season.

Gladioli were at one time divided into several sections known as Childsii, Gandavensis, Lemoinei, Groffs, and Primulinus \“ ey , are now grouped under two heads, the large flowered hybrids and the Primulinus hybrids, but they have been so often intercrossed that it is hard to tell where one section leaves off and the other begins.. Those who desire extra special varieties can get them up to 25s each, but for ordinary garden decoration and for cutting good mixtures can be had from Is a dozen upwards.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. “Hollyhock,” Waipiata.—The leaves of your hollyhock are attacked by the fungus (Puccini Malvacearuni) commonly known as the hollyhock rust. It is not confined to this plant alone, and is found on several of the species belonging to Malvacea. It forms small raised spots usually on the lower side of the leaves, at first redbrown, but becoming darker. If the attack is severe the leaves are destroyed and the plant perishes, but if taken in time, and the affected leaves arc picked off and burned, the plants, though weakened may be saved. At one time this disease’ th.eatened to exterminate the hollyhocks altogether, but the more vigorous seedlings are not so liable to be attacked as the old plants, or those grown from cuttings. Fortunately hollyhocks can be grown quite easily from seed, and by growing a number in this way every vear we get quite satisfactory spikes, Spraying with Bordeaux mixture or lime sulphur will check the disease, but as the spores are found mainly on the under sides of the leaves, extra care has to be taken to ensure the spray reaching the affected parts. Mr Massee states that he has proved by experiment that if-first y ear plants are attacked they remain free from the disease afterwards. On the other baud, if seedlings escape the first year, they are very susceptible the second? “Reader,” Palmerston. —Mildew on rambler roses is usually due to the plants mg planted against a wall or close board fence, or allowed to grow into a tangle, so that the wind cannot blow through them. From observations made in many districts 1 am convinced that most failures " 1 j I 'amblers are due to lack of pruning and thinning at the proper season? V nether growing on a fence, pergola, or arch, they must be thinned out and all wood removed as far as possible, to allow of a free circulation of fresh air and to make spraying effective. Spray with sulphide of potassium, or a preparation called, clensel, which appears to be very satisfactory. Spray with lime sulphur as soon as possible after pruning. M. D., Owaka.—Your gooseberries were attacked by mildew, which is no doubt more prevalent than usual this year owing to the very moist weather which we had early in the season. Thin- out your bushes to allow a free circulation of fresh air and spray after pruning with lime sulphur.

S. T., Hillgrove.—The thick growth on your apricot tree and your gooseberry bushes should be thinned out now to allow the light to get in and to secure the proper ripening of the wood, which means the formation of the flower buds. Remove the strong sappy growths which sprint np in the centre of the trees and bushed 1 tuning during the winter when the plants are at rest will also be necessary Probably your apples were not fertilised or your soil may be waterlogged.