IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3713, 12 May 1925, Page 59

IN FASHION’S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

By

Marguerite.

The oversea magazines, etc., devoted to dress are especially useful just now, and I am not above admitting it. It is because when they left the place cf publication in the Northern Hemisphere the scene-shifters in the drama of dress were making the change from one season to another —-Winter to Spring. And the two being merged it was easy to see what was being carried on, whether in the old form or with some degree of variation. The first thing to notice is the hat. The shape that was being given a fresh lease of life was the one with a straight-up crown like the short section of a pipe, with a low domed top sunk within it, and with a narrow brim crisply folded back in front, a ribbon being there as before, but with flowers and any amount of them. And the new shape to run in conjunction w'as a semi-cone with an immense brim and fairly smothered with flowers. The next thing is the dress. Two standards were being exhibited, both carryons, the beautiful ensemble in all sorts of ways, and the equally beautiful frock with a very long bodice, short sleeves, and a skirt embroidered with a floral device in tiny beads. Two features must be mentioned—the scarf collar with coats, or frocks with any sort of collar allowing of a scarf effect, and the bow on the frock that would be suggestive of the old one-piece. And this scarf collar, which we now see with some of the stylish Winter coats, was developing into a ribbon—a silken streamer continued from the silken upper part of a collar with long, narrow revers. And as for the bow, ii was placed at the top of the contrasting depth that makes a third of the skirt on the hem side, with ends to fall over this to two or three inches below it. Then a certain accessory must be mentioned—the free scarf, whicn, seen to-day in generous size, had become, with the scene shifting, of prodigious proportions, arranged artistically round the neck, gathered and pinned on the shoulder, and thereafter left to float like a cloud. Such pictures as I have seen are a further proof that dress is evolutionary, not revolutionary—a kind of endless merging, so that there is really never any dividing line. Tlie froe scarf we are favouring just now is a beautiful thing, but how is it possible to arrange it in a picture, and yet show tho pattern properly when this is so often floral and large? I am giving a popular size in this, and merely indicating a pattern by ruling it acrosa and up and

down and filling the squares here and there to get a pattern. This is done the more readily because of the growing liking for anything savouring of the cross-word, the geometrical mesh for which permits of the thousands of taking designs.

IHie of tho newest things is going bo be the turTied-back glove; in fact it is with us nov. It is not tho loosely turned back one» as though the gauntlet had been loosely turned over, but the crisp little touch suggestivo of the turn we give a leaf when we dog-ear the corner to find the place again. This turn-over will be decorated—a border or maybe a flower. Again, we are promised the scarf-glove—-a glove with a gauntlet, yes, .but in the shape of a scarf, in that while the top is a tiny fold the bottom is a streamer, and the fashion will be to wear a bracelet between the glove itself and this extension. The inclination for hanging, floating ends is general, and hence the tendency to develop what is so very well liked. ' I nave done a “cross-word” alphabet, A to Z, for embroidering initials on buttons of any size, cuffs, pocket tops, etc., but as 26 would occupy to much space I have eliminated all but the difficult ones, and as soon as the etcher has done with these will include them in my notes. In the meantime, if you contemplate anything of this kind yourself, let ine say that the right number of spaces is 49, seven one way and seven tho other. With initials you must obey certain rules, but with designs otherwise your fancy is free, and the patterns obtainable run into hundreds. All this will be explained when I am able to include the examples.

I never remember such beautiful coats and never such beautiful dresses as those that have a coat effect. Take the present illustration in proof—a glorious affair, with that wrap-round effect we all like when it is artistically done. The collar is nice,

and there is a gathered touch at the fastening, where, but for the hand, you would see a large button of the very kind that would stand the treatment just mentioned. The fur is nicely used all round—to make the collar, to band the cuffs, and to finish things below. We are exploiting these tall rounded hats with no brim worth mentioning, or with such, when there is enough of it, turned up in front or at the back or all round. And with it we are exploiting the ribbon addition—the bow on the top, either there by itself or as the tie of two ends brought up over the sides from the brim. The stylo is a charming one, such shapes being either hal'd or soft, but preferably the latter, though not too much so, to lose anything. And with respect to the ribbon, a very pretty departure is the narrow knitted band used as one. There are really no limitations in this kind of thing. What you want is effect with elegance.

Two such hats are being worn here, and though as small as your small finger-nail, are clear enough for practical purposes. But the main thing is to show how fur may be employed in the collar and cuffs of

a coat. In tho one case it is as a cosy surround, neck and wrists, and in the other to border the “drape ’ that suggests a collar and to make tne cuffs, tho fur in the one case being single and in tho other with a stripe.

A decidedly .ginart shoo is the one with the bow on the outer side. The sandal is completely out, and tho strapped shoe, whero the straps are many, has, in my opinion, already seen its day. The shoe that appeals is tho one with a single strap over the instep, but in the selection I am mentally making it fastens under a crisp little bow, which gives tho shoe an air of great smartness. Shoe-making in those days is as great an art as glovemaking, and so fastidious have wo become through long familiarity with perfection that anything the least bit crude is turned down at onqp.

And it is neeosary to have beautiful shoes when skirts are what they are, and again necessary if only because our dresses are ao very exacting. In the little sketch on

ihe left you have a knitted sleeveless coat of the small kind—a very nice auxilinry to &lip on in certain cases when gavness is a recommendation In the other sketch you have an ensemble—coat and frock, separable and inseparable, just as you desire. And the palm tree shows that the needle may be employed in just about that position. Which reminds me that the trend is towards pointed touches of this kind—the artist's brush instead. When last the mail loft the Old World they were wearing

frocks on the promenade displaying little designs painted by real artists. I saw a picture where a girl had the side of her skirt painted in pansies, ever a flower that lends itself to this kind of thing. It takes some skill to paint on material, and skill only comes with practice. It is of no use an amateur attempting, as much till she has learned how. HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS. If new tinware is rubbed with fresh lard and heated in the oven before it is used, it will never rust afterwards. Fresh orange peel is excellent for restoring black, shoes. Rub well with the inside of the rind, and polish with a soft cloth. Keep a small piece of wax candle by you when sewing for waxing threads or easing seams. When putting a thick seam through the machine, rub the candle alone the line where the sewing will go, ana there need be no fear of the needle breaking or sticking. Fish for frying should be dried thoroughly and dredged thickly with flour before being brushed over with egg and breadcrumbs. Vinegar is useful for reviving colours. Add one teaspoonful of vinegar to each quart of cold rinsing water. Thoroughly saturate the article, wring tightly, and dry quickly. A sponge cake always looks more tempting if there is a nice crust on the top. This is obtained by sprinkling castor sugar over the top of the cake before putting it into the oven.

To prevent cheese becoming dry, rub with butter and keep closely covered. When using carbonate of soda for cakes always stir it into the milk, which should be tepid. Beiore cleaning copper kettles fill them with boiling water. They will then polish more quickly.

Hang uncooked meat from hooks in the larder; do not let it lie on a dish.

Medicine stains can usually be removed from clothes by applying ammonia. To clean leather gaiters and tan shoes, rub with a slice of lemon, wipe dry, and polish as usual.

To remove grass stains from cricketing flannels, rub them over with lard and leave for half an hour. Wash them in the usual way. Grease spots can be removed from wallpaper with a small bit of flannel dipped in spirits of wine. Don’t use the part of the flannel which has removed a grease mark again.

If the burnt bars of a grate are nibbed' with a piece of lemon before the blacklead is applied, they can be polished after quite easily.

To keep sponges nice, wash in warm water in which a little tartaric acid has dissolved. Don't use much acid, or the sponge will be spoiled, and wash out in cold water. Gilt frames that are dirtv should be washed with warm water to which a little household ammonia has been added. Do not use too much water, and dry the frame with a cloth as soon as possible. Old gas mantles should not be thrown away. The substance of which they are made is a wonderful specific for cleaning gold and silver jewellery. It should bo used quite dry on a piece of chamois leather.

To dispel the smell of cooking, put a pinch of soda on a hot stove To stiffen a crinoline hat, brush with a solution of gum arabic ,and leave to dry. Small pieces of wool dipped in oil of lavender and placed about a room will keep Hies away. Pots of musk are said to have the same effect.

To clean a sponge, soak it for a day in a solution of three ounces carbonate of soda dissolved in two pints of water. Rinse well in cold water, and expose to the sun for a few hours.

A copper kettle when in use is liable to become blackened. It can be cleaned bv rubbing half a lemon dipped in salt over the surface of the metal, afterwards washing it in warm water and thoroughly drying. Saucepans that have been burnt should never be filled with soda water. Instead, fill with salt and water, leave for a few hours, then bring slowly to boiling point. The burnt particles will then come off without difficulty. To remove machine oil stains from lightcoloured or white garments, rub with a cloth dipped in ammonia and then wash with water and soap. A tar stain should be softened with grease, then rubbed with a rag dipped in turpentine. After subsequent washing the stain will disappear. Resin is useful for fastening knife and fork stalks into their ivory or bone handles. When a blade comes out of its handle, powder some resin, till the hollow in the knife handle, heat the iron stalk red hot, and press it into the handle until it takes its original place. Wipe off any superfluous resin that may ooze out. Here is an economical and reliable way of renewing leather chairs which have become greasy and dirty. Roil one pint of linseed oil ; allow to stand until nearly cold. Then stir into it half a pint of vinegar, and when the two have been well mixed pour a little on to a soft cloth and rub well into the leather. Renew the cloth, or turn it over as it gets dirty, and pour on a little more of the liquid. Finally, rub well with a clean, soft duster to renew the polish. The leather should come up as good as new. HOME INTERESTS. TOASTED WALNUT SANDWICHES. Half a cup of cream or cottage cheese, two tablespoons of salad oil, one tablespoon vinegar, a quarter of a teaspoon salt, an eighth of a teaspoon of paprika, six tablespoons of Diamond Walnut meats, on© loaf of graham bread. Mix oil, vinegar, salt and paprika, arid then mix with cheese. Cut graham bread in quarter-inch slices', spread with cheese mixture, and sprinkle with chopped Diamond Walnut meats. Put together in pairs, remove crusts, and cut in finger-shaped pieces, toiist, pile log-cabin fashion on a fancy plate, and serve as an accompaniment to dinner salad. CHOCOLATE PUDDING. Two eggs and their weight in butter, flour, and sugar. A tablespoonful of cocoa-pow-der. Two tablespoonfuls of milk. Half a teaspoonful of baking-powder. A few drops of vanilla. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, then beat up the eggs, add them to the butter, etc., and beat them in well. Now mix together the flour, cocoa, and baking-powder. Stir lightly into the mixture and add the milk. Pour this mixture into a well-greased mould or basin, cover with a piece of greased paper, and steam for one hour and a-half to two hours. VIENNESE COFFEE. Four tablespoonfuls of coffee (freshly roasted and ground), and one pint of boiling water. Heat a jug or a fireproof coffee-pot. Put in the coffee, pour on the freshly boiling water, and stir it. Cover the pot, and stand it in a pan of boiling water on the fire. Leave it for five minutes, then stir it again, and leave for another five minutes, only keeping a gentle heat under the pan, as the coffee must not actually boil. Then strain in into the little heated cups. Put a tiny spoonful of whipped cream cm the top of each cup, and serve. In pouring it off, bo very careful not to disturb the muddy sediment in the jug. PLAIN SHORT PASTE. With four good toacupfuls (lib.) of flour mix a little ealt and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, then rub in three ounces each of margarine and dripping or lard. Mix to a fairly stiff pasto with cold water, and bake at once in a moderately hot oven. CHOCOLATE CREAM. Five bars of chocolate, two and a-half pints of milk, two ounces of sugar (or more, according to the kind of chocolate), one heaped tablespoonful of custard powder. Orato the chocolate into a small pan. Pour on enough boiling water to melt it. Add the inilk. Bring all to the boil. Draw the pan to

the side of the fire, and let it simmer for one hour. Smooth the custard powder in a little cold milk or water, stir it into the boiling chocolate, sweeten to taste, and stir all over the fire for five minutes. Let it get quite CDld before it is served. It ought to bv just about the thickness of unwhipped cream.

FRUIT SALAD. A quarter of a pound of black grapes, two bananas, one orange, one apple, one ounce of glace cherries and half a pint ot truit syrup. Remove the top neatly from tiie melon, then with a spoon, scoop out the seeds, saving as much of the juice as possible. Next take a silver knife and cut out the centre of the fruit, merely leaving an empty case. Cut the melon into neat dice, also the peeled apple, bananas, and orange. Put all the fruit into a bowl, pour over the syrup, add sugar to taste, and, if possible, leave for half an hour. Just before serving arrange the. fruit in the melon, heaping it up prettily and decorating it with the cherries. Replace the lid, and serve prettily decoiated with leaves.