IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3673, 5 August 1924, Page 62

IN FASHION’S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

By

Marguerite.

Imagining- ourselves round the teacups, I want to say this: I hare been reading all about the 'Wembley Habit” in an English paper. Interesting? Well, very; but the thing that stayed in my mind to talk about was the ‘"Bradford Boost.” I think you should know about it, and the best way is through my quoting what follows from a fashion writer who did the original for the London press. These are the engaging extracts: “Why trouble about Paris when you can do better in Bradford? It is impolite and, besides, shows that you don’t: know what Bradford is doing. Ladies in (Australian and ?Cew Zealand centres mentioned] will soon be wearing Bradford creations made of Bradford materials, and will, no doubt, prefer them to any other. In the Bradford Pavilion in the Palace of Industry at Wembley 30 British mannequins parade three times a day wearing Bradford creations, which are the envy of every woman who sees them—sports suits, frocks, evening gowns, and wraps. In Australia, Xew Zealand [other parts of the Empire follow] enterprising and far-see-ing merchants have purchased the whole range of Bradford models to exhibit in their shops, and have agreed to purchase Bradford materials, so that the creations may be copied.” The importance of it to me lies in the fact that a pronounced effort is being made to displace the foreign world as the arbiter when it comes to saying what's what in feminine attire. In all which connection the ladies of the Royal Family are setting a very fine example. From what I read, the Queen, who has the “Wemblev Habit” very much, is seen at the Exhibition pretty often, and what she wears and selects is obviously to encourage others —the things in which the Empire shines, and might with more encouragement blaze. And now if I ask whether you hare yet seen one of the Spanish shawls, you may raise your eyebrows and say, ‘‘Spanish! How does that fit in with what you have been telling us about?” Well, “Spanish”

is a name, albeit I sometimes wonder if v> e could not well drop these geographical "descriptions,” as they often cause confusion. The Spanish shawl is simply a shawl on Spanish lines, and when the last mail left the Old World was becoming a rage. To my mind its outstanding features are its size and fringed border. It is as voluminous as Red Riding Hood’s mantle twice over, in that it may be arranged to nearly cover the figure; and, as for the fringe, it may be anything considerable up to a foot in length, any part crossing another of course giving the effect of more. These shawls must be pretty expensive when made largely of lace, as I gather that some are. In fact they would be pretty expensive no matter of what made, if really good. A good deal may be made of the sideskirt hanging just now. If there is a pocket it is an excellent plan to have a tassel. We shall suppose a one-piece frock with a “V” collar with overfolding top, "nest” cuffs (i.e., two or three gauntlets arranged in “nest” fashion), side hip-straps to pinch in the frock there, and then a large pocket on one side of the skirt, which, in order to harmonise the cuffs. will have, say. a connie of “underskirted ’ flounces. Very well, collar, cuffs, side -hipstraps, and pocket will be embroidered en suite, and from the last there will be a tassel of same size with cords almost to the feet. But it is only one thing. The pocket being used as the support every time because the result, when it is, is so artistic the hanging may be practically anything, and what is pleated is a favoured selection. But while it is always possible to end at less, the best effect will always be by carrying it well below the hem of the skirt. There are other choices, and a noteworthy one is the one with beads. I can tell you this at once—beads are likely to come in with the freedom of a hailstorm, when in no time the hail “embroiders” the entire lawn. The domed bats remain, and may their shadow (over the face) never (in reason) grow less. But a hat that has such limitations with a brim at the back necessarily will, as egards this feature, suggest a

peak, and in the present case it is a rather elaborate one, the ornamentation consisting of three lines of worked leaves. It is another hat in a very wide and varied range, and will surely please some, if not all. It is a period, generally speaking, when things are emphasised boldly. There is less of the linnicky than ever before known, and so daring single notes in its place. If a bow it is a large one, in fact at times ever so large: if a motif then one that can be seen; if a flower then such that if it were grown in a garden the grower would want to exhibit it for a prize. And the same rule applies to patterns—no "tiddly winking” patterns for Mrs and Miss La Mode now, but bold checks, bold stripes, bold spots, etc.. In fact, when it comes to checks it is sometimes a ease of the wearer net being big enough to show as many as three, horizontally viewed, at the one time. I’ll go further—l have seen checks so very large as to call for another description—crossed stripes. In which connection, perhaps, we have something from the "knit.” As in this case. Of course, strictly speaking, there is no cheek at all, and there isn’t. But by using those stitches it is just possible to suggest one or near enough for the purpose. But this is not

the jrorpose of the design, which is to show a very nice knitted dress with a rather telling stripe tellingly improved by just the stitching mentioned. And a little feature of smartness anyhow is the “motif” on the collar and cuffs. inough on the small scale necessitated I draw attention to the ribbon band on the hat on this figure. It is just such little things as this that cause your best friend to say. "Oh, where did you get that hat?” or, “Oh, where did you learn that?” First and foremost, the pendant of “strings”

from such crowns is a great feature; but strings mean anything, ribbons to cord, and as regards material silk to leather. With this remark the ribbon is carried over the crown and looped in the way you see both sides, and given a couple of ends to finish. It may be said that it is not much to talk about, but there it is—little things like tliis count. And confining attention to ribbons, the prettiest bows ever devised are seen here, there, and everywhere. With ribbon it is always possible to have a buckle. I am fond of the buckle. Or a brooch. Touching which in a gossipy vyay, I may say that one of the dusky kings happening to be vassals of George V, attended the Empire Exhibition the other day, and excited no end of attention because of his headdress. But his consort excited this a dozen times over with hers. What do you think the ornament was? Tiiere was a ribbon flower arranged somehow- or other cn her headdress, and there was a golden butterfly on this, and it had jewelled wings. And so wonderfully were these wings made that as she walked they slightly fluttered of danced, and the jewels on them fascinated all beholders. My mind just now is on Spring, and millinery is the first consideration, or should be. And what may be done with one of the domed shapes so much the vogue at present was never better illustrated than in what you see. Consider the simplicity of it. It is clearly a “ruifle”-

like ring of anything dainty enough, or a “double-leaf” affair on a running stalk. And having surrounded the crown at the top in clustering form, you make a brim by twisting the trimming as the lines for that purpose demonstrates. And there you are—as pretty a hat as you would find in a day’s march anywhere. I have said that beads are going to be used with more than the usual freedom. They are, and on evening gowns especiallv. In fact, they can hardly be overdone on evening gowns, in that they may be made the solo ornament. Thus lines may be run in every direction in cube-cn'de style by means of .beads, and then cross lines used within the spaces. And as there are bound to be some awkward corners these may be overcome by covering them with careless clusters of berry-like beads, for all the world like berries in bunches. And when all is done a single huge bow fastened to the hip will do wonders. At one time I never thought it necessary to illustrate shoes, but to-day things are different, and some of the shoes fairly fascinate me. For example, take these

selections. The one with the mor.ogrammed strapping (X) is, say, of black ocze with patent, and the other, an adorable shoe, is of black satin with a patent trim. LADIES’ GOSSIP. BRITAIN’S HOLIDAY ISLANDS. It is probabaly no exaggeration to say' that the Isle of‘Man is the most popularholiday island in the world. Its glens and even its mountains are turned into show places, whilst- Douglas is, perhaps, next to Blackpool, the most enterprising seaside town in the British Isles. The Isle of Wight is what the House of Lords is to the House of Commons, when compared with Manxland. “Man” is a democrat. “Wight” is an aristocrat. “Wight” is the headquarters of the Royal Yacht Squadron, and Cowes Week is one of the great events of the season. But the Isle of Wight has a popular side as the fronts at Rvde, Sandown, Vent nor-, and even Cowes itself can prove. It is, moreover, the paradise of the char-a-bancs, for its hills are easily climbable, and its roads are excellent. Moreover it has some of the loveliest coast scenery to be found anywhere. —Owned by a Novelist.— The Channel Islands belong to Britain, although they lie nearer to France, and their visiting list is correspondingly international ; but the fine service of steamboats from the southern ports of England is making these lovely islands better known to holiday-makers, even from the North and from Scotland. Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, and Sark, not forgetting the tiny Isle of Herm, which belongs to an English novelist, are all gems set in the sea. Then there is Anglesey, the only island which is also a county of England and Wales. Most people know Anglesey only as the first bit of the way from Holyhead to London. Yet, year by year, by virtue of snlendid golf courses and fine hydros, the Welsh county separated from the mainland by the Menai Straits, and connected with the mainland by two historic bridges, is coming more and more into prominence as a holiday centre. JADE. Jade, which has of late become very fashionable, has long been highly prized in the East, particularly in China and Japan, where it has been much used in temple service and decoration. We usually think of jade as green, but it has many different colours, and in China, each has

had a special significance and has been employed in special ways. The red variety, termed “fire jade” was supposed to contain the essence of life, and stories were told of its reviving the sick and bringing the dead to life. White jade is reckoned tlie most sacred of all jades and was the Chinese- Emperor's “luck stone,’’ and the symbol of his rank. When a Chinese child is born it is touched with jade, and mothers will put a piece of jade in the cradle to ward off evil spirits. PARIS DISMISSES ITS WOMEN SW IEPERS. For fifty years the streets of Paris have been swept by women, and they did thenwork very efficiently. Last March however, the- city authorities dispensed with them, stating as a reason that the work is too hard for women. “The Woman’s Leader” commenting on this, says that an employment is never found to be too hard for women unless men desire it for themselves. WOMEN AS BUS CONDUCTORS !N JAPAN. We heard the other day of a young lady being refused permission to serve as a motor-bus conductor, though she had proved her efficiency. In Japan it seems there is no prejudice against women acting in this capacity, and many young women are qualifying for the work, and applying in far greater numbers than there is work for. A JEWISH SCHOOL OF AGRICULTURE FOR WOMEN. Near Haifa (Palestine)*a- School of Agriculture for young Jewish women is in course of construction. The International Women’s Zionist Organisation ’ is guaranteeing the up-keep of the School and is collecting funds for the buildings. Some girl students have already commenced their studies and poultry yards and treenurseries are completed. EGGS! Recently it was stated in the House of Commons that no less than two thousand millions of foreign eggs are imported annually into Britain. These come from France, Denmark, Holland, and from many more distant countries, including China-. It is said however, that English eggs are superior to the imported, both in size and flavour, but they are badly sorted, badly packed, and supplied irregularly. Lately a great impetus has been given to poultry farming in England, and possibly before very long the British Isles may be able to supply the whole of the home markets. PRINCESS MARY’S COLOURS. Princess Mary is so fond of wearing blue, that “Mary blue” has become a phrase, but she looks equally well in pink. Lately she was seen in a simple evening frock of the straight down variety, made of soft chiffon of a pale wild-rose pink. This delicate rose set off her hair and her fresh complexion to nerfection. LONDON’S SMALLEST DOG. Lady Kimberley owns the smallest dog in London. He is a Mexican hairless terrier—an extremely rare type. He is only a few inches long, but will probably grow a little longer, as- he is not yet- one year 01-cl. Presently a Post Office clerk weighed the do-g, and the scale went down no farther than a handful of ordinary letters would have sent it. This ra-e animal answers to the name of Nick, is the colour of a rat, wears a, small pink brocade collar, and is fond of eating coal. “He is especially fend of bronze silk stockings when lie sees them,” said Ladv Kimberley. “I take him to have bis paws manicured occasionally.” MRS MILLICPNT GARRETT FAWCETT. Mrs Millicent Garrett Fawcett, a lendei among women in education and social and uolitical reform, is soon, so it is rumoured, to be made the first woman Privy Councillor. All her life Mrs Fawcett has, in a single-minded wav. striven to secure for women the best education possible, joints out “ A rthur Peodenvs” in John o’ I,ondon’s Weekly. Thp first meeting called together with the ob-ect of founding Newnham College was held in Mrs Fawcett’s drawing-room at Cambridge, in IR7O. She was, as everyone is aware, the leader of the reasonable section of the women suffrage movement. She ©referred to beln bv influence, hv tone, and bv personality rat-her than bv violence. To her husband, the blind Postmastgr-General. to whom she was married on Anril 2?rd. 1P67. she was from the first not onlv his hands and eves, but she was also his hone and his light. A great dav in Mrs Fawcett’s life was in June IR C O, when her only child. Philinna, who is still fortunately at her mother’s right, hand, became Senior W rangier, and thereby was at once invested with an unrivalled halo of distinction. A nrettv story is told of Philinna. Once when mother and daughter were packing no for a journev. “Have von remembered to pack vour doll?” Mrs Fawcett asked her child. "Hash!” said Philinna, with a glance at the open door of the t-ov cupboard. “T don’t want her to kno-w she’s a doll.” To rob dolls of supposed human attributes is indeed to take away all their charm for their owner-s. HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS. Silk stockings will last, longer if carbonate of soda is sprinkled into them before they are worn. Highly-polished enamel may bo washed with a soft flannel dipped in pure olive oil, soap, and warm water. P.y mixing methylated spirits into enamel paint instead of turpentine, the paint dries quicker and goes twice as far. Never peg delicate materials on to the clothes line without placing a piece of

clean paper between the fabric and the P'g. To remove the stains from enamel cooking utensils fill tire vessels with water, add a little chloride of lime, and let it boil for a few minutes. To clean matting take a coarse cloth, dip it in salted water, and scrub the matting. Go over with clean salt water. The salt prevents the matting from turning yellow. Eggs which have been broken accidently may bo kept for two or three days by removing the shells, dropping the eggs into a bowl, and covering with cold water. To keep children’s coats a good shape after they have been washed, sew a piece of tape down the inside of each of the side seams and down the fronts. This prevents the coat from dropping. After cutting off press-fasteners from an old garment for future use, snap them together as you take the pairs off, and put them in a box. In this way tlie pressfasteners that match are kept together, and there is no trouble in sorting. Before cooking vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflowers, and others of the same kind, soak them for some time in cold water to which has been added about a handful of salt. This will clean them from any insects and bits of stone and grit there may be in them. What humour is to life so is salt to an egg—and to many other things as well. Salt is so pure that it can pass through the most utter filth and yet remain pure and disinfectant. Besides flavouring food, it removes the worst part of most stains—at least preventing their becoming permanent. A handful of common salt thrown into a hot bath relieves fatigue, and often helps to break up or prevent a cold. Soda will do this as well, but salt is better. If tlie feet are very tender and painful a mild solution of hot water and salt at night and a cold foot bath of the same in the morning—-if persevered with for a week or two —will greatly strengthen the feet and ankles. A bag of hot salt is excellent for toothache and the urdlder forms of neuralgia, also for relieving the pains that accompany a chill. A teaspoonful of salt in a pint of water makes a most antiseptic and strengthening gargle. It is used by many singers. Stained baths and domestic utensils (provided they arc not made of aluminium) can be thoroughly cleaned by salt moistened with paraffin oil. Leave the salt on the stain for a little time after rubbing, and then wash with hot water and soap, and rinse. The stain, unless it has worked right into the enamel or metal, will have disappeared. Sprinkle salt round drains and sinks, as it is disinfectant. Salt and carbolic powder mixed and made into a solution with hot water ar? excellent for removing bad smells and flushing out drains. As a preservative for food salt is well known. Perhaps it is not so well known that salt is an excellent weed-killer, and kills slugs and snails easily, while stonework and window ledges that have become green with damp can be made perfectly clean by scrubbing with salt, and they will remain clean if salt is used in the water for washing them afterwards. Fat or grease stains arc easily removed from white linen by an application of benzine, petrol, or methylated spirits. The colour of a rug or carpet can be freshened by going over the surface with a broom dipped in water containing a little turpentine. Place a bowl of lime in tlie cupboard on the shelf where jellies, jams, and preserves are kept, and it will prevent mould from gathering on the fruit. Moisture is not likely to form on polished or varnished furniture if a little linseed oil is rubbed over the surface of the wood after it lias been polished. Don’t let the flame come up the sides of the kettle and saucepans, as this causes an unpleasant smell and does not make them boil any more quickly. When pouring hot fat into a basin, add the same quantity of boiling water. This will cause any oddments in the fat to sink to the botttom, and the dripping will be clean enough for pastry. When chamois gloves have lost their colour it can be restored by soaking some orange-peel in water for twenty-four hours, and then putting the peel into the water which is being boiled for washing tlie gloves. If you have oak furniture which has grown shabby, rub it well with warm ale, and when dry, polish with beeswax dissolved in turpentine. An excellent remedy for stains or a shiny surface on navy-blue material is cold tea. Use it lukc-warm, and brush the material the way of the grain with a small nail-brush. When bamboo furniture becomes dirty, scrub it with lukewarm lather, to "which has been added a handful of salt. Rinse in cold water. Do not make wetter than is necessary. Always tack seams before machining, however simple they may appear. This will prevent one side becoming longer than the other, especially when the material is cut on the cross. To remove a corn, take a few ivy leaves and saturate for about three days in strong vinegar sufficient to cover them. Paint the solution on the corn, or lay on the leaves as a plaster. To cut hard butter, put a piece of the paper in which it has been wrapped over the edge of the blade, and cut with the edge thus covered. Tlie butter will not crumble or stick to the knife.