IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3655, 1 April 1924, Page 62

IN FASHION’S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES. By Marguerite. With the new season now opened we can get something like a first perspective of lines, modes, and all in relation. A good deal may be said of coat-frocks, on which I foresee a run. This is largely the result »>f a certain ruling “closing”—the one that fs oarried over to the opposite hip level. And a likely strong feature with many of the best of these costumes will he the fur border. In a word, not only will fur figure

with the collar, and often enough with the cuffs, but it will be employed to finish the skirt. At the same time I cannot always accept the oversea decree. Somehow or other there is always a feeling that when it comes to fur, it is like a certain lady in one of Dickens’s books —Mrs Lirriper. Well, Mrs I.irriper lived south and Miss Lozenby lived north, and Mrs Lirriper was fond of saying, “What suits Miss Lozenby doesn’t suit me.” Conditionally that the fur is narrow and flat, well and good—a border to the skirt may not be amiss; but ,if not, there it is—failing the means to apply it more discreetly it were better to leave it alone. But it has to be noted in the day’s march all the same, simply because in the various catalogues before me I see it quite as often as not. Let me see if I can arrange a compromise.

It is in what you see. We have fur and enough with the collar and cuffs, and then we get to the skirt. A section of this is shown in the panel, the “hand” serving to indicate position. The skirt,

then, js looped up a bit, in fact somewhat draped, and instead of bordering the skirt itself v, r e "camouflage” things by bordering the drape. The idea is not my own. I picked it out of a group as one of the best ways of accomplishing things ’while respecting a deep-rooted prejudice. 1 am obliged to harp on fur a bit simply because I see so much of it as one of (he great coming events. I opine either that the °ld world wants to raise the new to its own level or that there has been something like a war in “beaver land,” the fur-coated creatures getting the worst of it. And I notice a great deal of originality in the manner of the application and no little in the treatment. \\ here a large fur collar is employed an improvement is achieved by stitching the fur down some distance from the edge to siniulate a border. And where fur is used with the cuffs it is sometimes treated like a material, and in a way made part of the sleeve, the size of this permitting of as much in nine cases out of ten. In speaking of fur I again make the note —fur and furs. Fur is the trimming, furs are accessories. I am not saying much of furs just now, as my own opinion is that fur is of more importance. When it comes to millinery I think the new season’s styles will make ever so much of the shape and very little of the trimming. That peculiar little hat that has a semi-circular crojvn brought down, for all the world like a dome with its supports, to turn into a brim which is more strictly a rim—well, I see this style everywhere, and I think it is going to be a rage. They have all kinds of names for it, but about the best of all would be the “bell,” for a bell it is, and shaped like the one that enjoys that name in the floral kingdom. The trimmings as a rule could be manipulated by a child—a mere bow in front, or such with a band and in the maiority of instances the ribbon is narrowness itself. But the dome-like crown rules even where there is a real brim, and this, by the way, is seldom all round. In other words, it is turned up at the back flat against the shape, and then opens out gradually till it arches over the face. With most of the hats the coiffure has this importance—very little of it shows, and because of this it is brought over the ears. An impertinent humorist, evidently' of the opposite persuation, has described as much as the “whisker.” In his opinion we are imitating a masculine fashion of that kind that flourished in the early days of Queen Victoria. After no end of a controversy, long versus short and short versus long, the new season’s modes provide a final answer —the day of the very short skirt is completely over, and is not likely to return. All the standards are with some concession to length—skirts that reach to just above the anklet or to the level of it. And so emphatic is this note that even the most infatuated votaries of the short skirt are to be found adding to any that is likely to serve a little longer as regards its life. As a matter of fact the present lines impel as much. Whether with the slenderly built or the not so slender as in former years, the modes require length for an artistic result. You get some proof of this in the illustration. It is one of the prettiest of the new styles. Observe the fur collar and the size of it, and the narrow revers in contrast, and the way the dress fastens with the inevitable bow and ends for a finish. And also observe that there is a cape,

I and that if desired it may he in contrast 1 too, although the best result would be to

have this with the lining. The model is just one of those creations we have to study as a whole, and when it comes to as much hat and shoes are likewise of the ensemble. Speaking of shoes, that department just now is worth a good deal of attention. Between the shoe proper and the shoe that is a sandal there are several very charming compromises One of the prettiest shoes I have seen for a long time was red with a grey strapping, only this strapping was also part of the shea. Thus it came round from the “waist,” and the connections made by a border round the heel and over the instep allowed of a kind of “junction,” which took the pattern of trefoil. And from the strap over the instep the piece descendin'- to the toe “junctioned” with the border there, and the trefoil was repeated. But I am in doubt as to whether this is as clear as I

should like to have it, and so a little later I shall illustrate it for any combination of colours you like. Very wide plaids an • equally wide stripes will play their part with the new modes. A very wide plaid makes a charming dress that has a cape effect and fur collar and cuffs; and an equally wide stripe makes a beautiful dress with a long bodice and fur collar with narrow revers, the stripe running in this way —perpendicularly with the bodice and sleeves, cuff reversing, and horizontally with the skirt. Again a very wide plaid makes a coat-frock with tab fastening well down, fur collar and cuffs, and a stripe as wide as three inches or so, horizontally run, except on the cuff, makes another, a fur collar completing. One of the choicest of the models before me is pictured. Several noteworthy things appear. You will recall what I said a few- moments ago about the fur collar stitched down to provide a kind of border. This illustrates it. And again what I

said of the fur cuff that is to all intents and purposes part of the sleeve—this illustrates that too. A single button Is used and that of size, and how things are continued below you wil see by looking at the section in the panel. Incidentally I draw attention to the hat —the shape that is “shaping” everywhere. Formal dresses often have pendants from a sleeve that suggests an ending well above the elbow without actually having such. The pendant is part of the sleeve; in fact it is the lower part, and if I were asked to say what first suggested it I should flippantly remark a physical encounter — two ladies at daggers drawn, and one, instead of pulling the other’s hair, ripping her sleeve open from just above the elbow and letting the remnants hang according to the laws of gravitation. But should I speak as flippantly as it reads when my lady of the test is proudly wearing capes made famous by the Alpine bandits and collars suggested by observing the shawls of “Apache land” m Paris? Scalloped edges are noted. A scalloped edge is decidedly good with a long coat where this is part of a costume. But not all the wav ■’oivn —only to finish from the low faster And in that case a scalloped poe' 9 ge is also good, such aslant. Such a c 19 o will not disdain fur. In fact, fur v> applied on the collar and make all of the cuffs. Stitched edges constitute another item —lines to simulate a stripe, and such enrich a sleeve above a narrow fur cuff. But all such notings are preliminary to the picture. It is impossible to describe dresses with mere words. As the season progresses I shall illustrate the best styles as they happen to appeal to me.

The ruling thing to-day is the remark anent fur. And, having said so much on fur, I shall add one thing on furs, and it is by giving you a little picture. My

opinion is that furs this time will be within the reach of pretty well all. I keep my eyes open. The world has been deluged with furs, and if those handling them want to see them on our shoulders they must tempt us with a reasonable price.

LADIES’ GOSSIP. A YOUTHFUL MAYORESS. England’s youngest Mayoress is the daughter of the Mayor of Chatham; she is only 16. To a. recent interviewer she expressed pleasure in being her father s assistant, and her confidence that she would be equal to the ordeal of speaking in public. Her civic responsibilities do not, apparently, bulk over-largely in her mental horizon, and she owned to the usual girlish fondness for reading stories, for dancing, and needlework, and to being a regular patron of the local kinematograph. WOMEN’S DISABILITIES. A striking instance of British conservatism occurred some time back when a famous British scientific society desired to honour Professor and Madame Curie, and invited them to come to London. Unfortunately the rules of the society did not permit women to attend its meetings, and apparently the committee could not, relax even in" favour of a distinguished scientist like Madame Curie. So Professor Curie entered the meeting room alone, to hear the eulogy on his wife’s work, while she remained outside. Another odd example of present inconsistencies in regard to women s rights and privileges was presented in the candidature for the British Parliament of Miss Helen Ursula Williams, aged 26. Being below the woman’s voting age, 30, she could not vote, but the law' permitted her to stand for Parliament, and presumably to sit if she had been elected. SHORTAGE OF DOMESTIC WORKERS IN FRANCE. The shortage of female domestic workers seem to be as acute in France

es in Britain. The great difficulty is to get skilled and competent domestic women workers, and there is also a shortage of skilled labour in some other feminine departments, as nursing, dressmaking, and embroidering. For lack of anything better a good deal of unskilled labour is employed in France in nurs’ng and in the hygienic departments of public institutions. BABY WEEK IN INDIA. The “ National Health and Baby Week ” which was held throughout India in January proved a great success. Health exhibitions, first-aid entertainments, and baby shows were held, at which appropriate demonstrations and lectures were given. The lectures were given in the native speech of the people oT tile various districts, so that uneducated women, could understand them. When baby shows were held last year the national superstition of “ the evil eye ” was so strong that only about 20 children were produced in Madras, but this year mothers brought hundreds. Lady Willingdon has made the cause of the babies peculiarly her own, and the success of Babv Week in Madras was a personal triumph for her. Lady Reading, Lady Lytton, and Lady Wilson have also been untiring workers in the attempts to improve the health of the rising generation in India. MARGARET BONDFIELD. Miss Margaret Bondfield, who, through her election to Parliament and her appointment as Secretary to the Minister of Labour, is now Britain’s foremost political woman, possesses many gifts to make her a power in politics. She is a fine speaker, eloquent and witty. In her work for the cause of Labour she has travelled widely, and she has a thorough knowledge of social and political work. She is described as broad-minded and tolerant, but firm and steadfast to her views. In addition to her solid gifts she has the advantage of dressing well and looking well; she is a charming woman, as well as an able political leader. NEW PARISIAN COIFFURE. In Paris bobbed hair is no longer smart, and the newest fashion is to cut the hair very short indeed behind, and bring round a side lock or two to the front of the ear to mitigate the severely plain effect. The style is so unbecoming that it is said only very good-looking women can afford to adopt it. Those who do must either have great confidence in their looks, or great determination to be smart. Frenchmen object to the new coiffure on the ground that it is unfeminine. UNDERCRADUATE MARRIAGES NOT FAVOURED. From America one hears that a “marriage mania” has swept over academical institutions since the war. The authorities of Syracuse University, New York, have given consideration to the matter, and come to the conclusion that matrimony and the attainment of scholarship are incompatible. They have thus decreed that the marriage of any student of the university will be accepted as withdrawal, and will cancel a student's enrolment and all connection with the university. A WOMAN THEOLOCIAN. An able writer on theology has passed away in the person of Mrs E. Herman. She was the author of books entitled “ The Meaning and Value of Mysticism, “ Eucken and Bergson,” “ Creative Prayer,” and of many articles on theological subjects WOMEN FACTORY WORKERS IN THE UNITED STATES. From an investigation recently made by the State Department of Labour it appears that in New York State women factory workers are paid at only about half the rate of men factory workers. The average wage per man was found to be 31.50d01, as against 16.50 for women. The great majority of the women are crowded into a few industries, principally the clothing and textile. Large numbers are also engaged in the preparations of food products. The highest salaries are paid to workers engaged in making women’s clothing and millinery; these receive up to 25d0l a week. The highest wage paid to men is 45dol—to stonecutters, and 40dol or upwards to printers. In several industries, including glove factories, women are paid low wages— Udol or less. A POPULAR AMERICAN LUXURY. American statistics show that at present the annual consumption of chewing gum is valued at nearly ten and a-half million sterling. In 1891 the value of the year’s consumption was only £IOO,OOO. HOW TO WEAR EARRINCS BECOMINCLY. Thought should be given to the wearing of ear-rngs, just now so fashionable. They do not suit all women, and, inen, the style of ear-ring should be studied in connection with the type of the wearer’s face. Try them on before the mirror, and see whether the long pendulous type of ear-rings suits your profile, or whether it accentuates its defects. Then, remember, long ear-rings are for the house rather than for the street, and are certainly not for the shop or office. Always in choosing and wearing jewellery see that it accords with your outlines and colouring, and with the dress you are wearing. Do not make the mistake of wearing two much jewellery at once; one or two suitable pieces make a much better effect. Unless your hands are pretty it is not well to draw attention to them by loading them with rings.

ENGLAND'S LACE INDUSTRY. —Efforts are being made to popularise lace, the demand for it, owing to changes in fashions, having declined of late, with resulting hardship to the workers who made their livings by lace making. Exhibitions of lace have been organised with a view to showing what beautiful designs are originated in England. Nottingham machine-made lace imitates the two distinct kinds of hand-made lace, “point” and “pillow” lace. The machine process is very intricate. The great hulk of English lace is made from cotton, but linen, wool, silk, and artificial silk are also used. Lace made from a combination of silk and wool is now on sale ill the shops, the combination favouring the production of striking and effective patterns. HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS. Nothing revives the colour of a blue serge gowit, better than a mixture of blue dye and water. To make the solui’on, procure a small cake of blue dye, and squeeze it into a basin of cold water until a deep hue is obtained. Then lay the gown on the table, and brush it well with a stiff nail-brush that has been dipped in the blue-water solution, iron on the wrong sf.de with a moderately hot iron, and hang out to dry. If your costume has worn shiny in some parts apply the following mixture: Make a jelly with a little yellow soap and boiling water ; when cold lay the concoction on the shiny patches. Leave for 10 minutes, then sponge off with a. cloth dipped in clean cold water. Press on the wrong side with a moderately hot iron, and the shine will have disappeared. Another excellent reviver for blue serge, is quillia bark powder. Purchase a small quantity from the chemist—about two pennyworth will be sufficient—put it in a basin, and pour over a teacupful of boiling water. Leave until cold, and then strain. Now take a. piece of old flannel and well sponge and rub the material all over. Iron and press on the wrong side, and hang up to air. Grease can be removed from a blue costume by placing a, sheet of blotting paper over and under the affected part, and pressing with a hot iron.

When ironing a costume a much better effect is obtained by lightly brushing, with a fairly stiff clothes brush, each, part of the costume after ironing while it is still steaming.