“ALIEN’S” LETTER FROM ENGLAND.

Otago Witness, Issue 3614, 19 June 1923, Page 56

“ALIEN’S” LETTER FROM ENGLAND.

(Specially Written for the Ladies’ Page.) GALA WEEK AND DUKE OF YORK’S WEDDING. April 28. Tho British climate adjusts itself to nothing. With flagrant disrespect to lawmakers, who decreed that it was summer, but with painful flouting of the poets and spring expectations, strong east winds, rain and squalls, snow, hail, and sleet, and every other sample of winter prevailed for the week that was to see the first of the King’s sons marry and make Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lvon his hricle and fourth lady of the land. Daughter of one of the oldest families in Scotland, her high rank and lineage fits her for alliance with Royalty. In the days preceding the wedding day many functions and festivities were crowded. There were many presentations, the Duke of York and Lady Elizabeth receiving deputations at Buckingham Palace. The Lord Mayor of London, accompanied by the sheriffs and members of the City Corporation, drove to the Palace in his State coach to present the gift of the citizens of London —a pearl and diamond necklace with large pearl drops for the bride-elect, together with a cheque. To enumerate other gifts would he tedious.

The King’s gift to the bride was an ermine cape and tiara, a necklace, brooches, earrings, and hair ornaments of diamonds and pale Persian turquoises. The Queen added to her other gifts a necklace of diamonds and sapphires, with bracelets, rings, brooches, and a pendant to match, and an old lace fan with mother-of-pearl frame and handle. Queen Alexandra’s present to the bride was a necklace of pearls and amethysts, with heart-

shaped amethyst set in brilliants, and a very fine antique silver box to the bridegroom.

In Tuesday’s brilliant, sunshine London looked its gayest; millions were abroad watching the finishing touches to the decorations and other preparations; thousands were permitted to pass through the Abbey. There were two rehearsals during the day one in the early morning streets of the horses and carriages in the procession, and one in the Abbey where the ushers were instructed how to place the guests, etc. The cake, delivered at Buckingham Palace during the morning, stood 9ft high, a fairy-like pagoda of most delicate structure although weighing 8001 b.

When on Wednesday evening the weather experts promised warmer and sunnier weather for days to come, the heart of the nation got an uplift. There were many gala dances, and much merriment and a clear sky and bright moon shone over London when it at length slept. Alas for our faith in the weather

prophets!—the whole of Britain was swept next day by a gale of wind and rain and sleet. I thought nothing could he worse than the weather we have sampled since last October—or with truth one may say since last June, hut this was quite a uniquely vicious day, with deluges of rain, and the hunting and flowers wrenched and flapped and draggled, and thousands of pounds worth of flowers, soddened and torn, let go their hold. Only the interiors did not suffer—the streets were swept of sightseers. Mercilessly the rain poured and the wind blew. But with inimitable London enthusiasm the wedding celebrations continued under cover.

On the eve of the wedding it was announced that the King had conferred the honour of the Thistle upon the Duke of York. When the wedding morning dawned everything possible had been done for the comfort and care of the great crowds expected to see the procession which represented all London, an<j all Britain and thousands of visitors from America, the Dominions and many of the European countries. No fewer than 9000 \ olice with 1000 special police and 200 mounted polico were on duty. St. John Ambulances and nurses liad taken up their stations, gates and harriers erected at the dangerous points, the streets lured with soldiers, and by nine o clock the route was closed to wheel traffic and thronged with men and women. Heedless of the rain, hundreds had sheltered in Whitehall all night well protected by mackintoshes and poke bonnets and helmets made of paper. The rain daunted few : the millions had come to honour the King’s son and welcome Ills bride. \\ indows, stands, balconies, even roofs, were crowded, and although the weather robbed tlio scene of much of its colour, the occasion lost none of its heartiness nor the magic of romance. The hands and the flower-wreathed hells flung bridal music on the air, and the peoples heart was with the simple, kind, and democratic young prince, who won the love of his bride before she would consent to marry him. If it had happened in a novel people would say “romance!” But it actually did happen on this surly April day, that after pel ting for thirty hours without mercy on the loyally affectionate multitudes, the rain cleared for the whole time of the wedding processions there and back, and at the moment that the bride met the bridegroom at the altar, the sunshine streamed over them as if in blessing—the lirst beam of the Ary. Those in the saw the breaking of the clouds, and patches of blue sky and sun gleams with joy—they wanted the sweet young bride to have her sunshine. Women who had braved the gloom and rain of the night said it was worth it. Cheerless as the conditions were, thousands came uip by the early workmen’s trains, by omnibuses in the dawn packed with old and young, and almost before Buckingham Palace showed signs of life the umbrellard crowd tegan to mass all round the gates. To the moment of the appointed time the different processions left for the Abbey ; roars of cheers greeted Queen Alexandra, who, escorted by Guards, and accompanied by the Empress Marie and her suite, started from Marlborough iiouise. The Guard’s Band in the quadrangle of Buckingham Palace struck up the National Anthem, and the King and Queen in their glass coach, accompanied by Prince George, came into the densely packed Mall, with their escort of Guards. A loud burst of cheering greeted them, and followed them all along the route.

The bride and her father in the bridal coach came by way of Constitution Hill ; the Prince of Wales and Prince Henry, accompanied the Duke of York. Punctually to the minute each procession arrived at the Abbey. The royal coach was welcomed by the Abbey bells, and a mighty shout and waving of handkerchiefs from the packed stands and windows. Then the bridegroom’s coach, with the Prince of Wales and Prince Henry, caused another tumult, and last of all the bridal coach, with the Strathmore arms, escorted —not by Life Guards, as she had not yet attained royal rank —but by jk>l ice on white horses. A peal of hells rang out with the cheers that penetrated to the Abbey.

At 9.30 the beautiful scene in the dimlvlighted Abbey began to form itself. At first the only colour in the greyness was the lighted altar of gold and white and the red carpet. The gold reredos, gold plate, white satins above the altar sprinkled with red fleur-de-lis. Bv eleven o’clock the whole aspect of the interior of the Abbey had gradually changed from greyness to brilliance, as the congregation arrived and took their seats, the exquisite frocks and jewels of the ladies, cloaks of wonderful tinsel brocades, gold and silver tissues; silk, laces, plumed and flower-adorned hats; amethysts, greens, blues, rose, gold and Oriental embroideries, ennines; officers and ambassadors in georgeous uniforms and Court dress; Ministers of State and dignitaries of the Empire and other lands, Stars and Orders, gold lace and scarlet and blue. By a quarter to eleven everybody Was in their places. The relatives of the bride in the gilt chairs on the left hand side of the altar, and those of the bridegroom in similar chairs on the right. The King stood in his place in his admiral’s uniform, his sword clasped in his hands, and beside him the Queen, a figure of great dignity in a wonderful gown of blue and silver, with a lace overdress sprinkled with blue-tinted crystals, with a blue and silver toque and wonderful jewels, and around the King and Queen the Princes and Princesses. A gown of deep violet was worn by Queen Alexandra, and Princess Mary was very charming in a cream lace dress and gold cloak and cream lace picture hat. Indy Patricia Ramsay wore pink with a nicture hat. The Dowager Empress Marie wore a trained dress of mauve velvet with cloak and silver toque. The bride’s mother wore lovely black and blue. Then came the princes—the bridegroom, a manly, handsome figure in the gr<—-blue of the Air Force uniform and ribbon of the Garter, the Prince of Wales in the Guard’s red, and Prince Henry in the

dark blue of the Hussars. Queen Alexandra kissed her three grandsons. Then the Duke of York took up his stand within the altar rails and watched the nave expectantly. It was then that the sun burst out and the bells and the organ ail together, and as the fairy figure came down the aisle, escorted bv her tall father, and followed by her retinue of eight snowwhite maidens. The sun burst into a deeper gold and falls upon her like a blessing as she meets the fond look of her lover and takes her place beside him. The bride’s two nieces, the Hon. Pllizabeth Elphinstoue and the Hon. Cecelia Bowes-Lyon carried her train, which they held throughout the ceremony. Lady Mary and May Cambridge walked together, ~ady Katherine Hamilton and Lady Mary Thane coming next, followed by the Honourable Diamond Hardinge and Miss Betty Cater. A picturesque and girlish group in frocks of white chiffon, with a girdle of Liver leaves and trails of silver leaves, the handkerchief draperies falling to the feet, with headdresses of green leaves finished at each side with a white rote and heather, and carried bouquets of white roses and heather. The bride looked lovely in her gown designed on simple Botticelli lines ° Of white moire mousme, it touched the ground. The square-necked bodice was trimmed in front with inset bands of snver lame bordered in pearl, and pearl embroidery with panel of pearls down the front of the skirt. The tinv sleeves were bordered with pearl embroidery. A full tram fell from the waist and over this a- second train of fine net partly bordered with Nottingham lace fell from the shoulders. The beautiful antique lace lent by the Queen was arranged over the head as a cap, confined in front by a chaplet of tiny 'Teen leaves, with clusters of miniature orange blossoms and white roses at each side, the lace falling with cape-h.ee effect, making an outer train over the net. The bride, on entering the Abbey, had stooped down—her left hand still on her father’s arm—and laid her bridal bouquet on the tomb of the Unknown Warrior. The ceremony in the Abbey was of great dignity and beauty, and solemn in its simplicity, only four clergy taking nart, the Archbishon of Canterbury performing the actual marriage service, the Arclp bishop of York giving the address, the Dean of W estminster read the exhortation that opens the service, and the "recentor of the Abbey read the Lord’s prayer and vergicles and responses. The Primus of Scotland and the Abbey clergy were the only other robed clergy present. The musical portion of the service was wonderful, and closely resembled that at Prince* Mary’s wedding. While the King

moved in procession the organist played Elgar’s Imperial March, and for the bridegroom’s procession Parry’s Bridal March. The choir met the bride at the door, singing the hymn as the preceded her, “Lead Us Heavenly Father, Lead Us,’’ and immediately after the contract portion of the service, “God be Merciful Unto Us and Bless Us.” After the wedding was the anthem composed for Princess Mary’s wedding by the organist of the Abbey, ‘‘Beloved, Let us Love One Another,” which was broadcasted throughout Britain in the evening.

The address of the Archbishop of York was notable, especially several passages: “To this great, this crowing day of your lives, you have come, attended by the august and moving memories of this hallowed place and by the kindly thoughts and wishes of the “nation. Before this host of witnesses, seen and unseen, you have offered your love to one another and to God. You have received from Him at this altar a new file wherein your separate lives are now, till death, made one. You, j Sir, have already given many proofs of : vour care for the welfare of our working people. You have made yourself at home in their mines and shipyards and factories. You have brought the boys of the workshop and the Public school together in flee and frank companionship. Toil liave done much to show your own sense ami to increase the public sense of the honour and dignity of labour. And vou, dear bride, in yofur old Scottish home, have grown up from childhood among country folk, and friendship with them has been your native air. So have you both been fitted for your place in the people’s life. Ihe nations and classes which make up our Commonwealth too often live their fives apart. It i s therefore a great thing that there should be in our midst one family which, regarded by all as in a true sense their own, makes the whole empire m and he.ps to give to it the spirit of one family life._ It is your privilege to be members of tfiat family and that central home.” As soon as the service was ended, the -I® a, f, l . ) i l€hess of York and the parents of bride and bridegroom, with the 'Vales and Queen Alexandra—- „ j? hel P ln ß hls mother with his arm e oA n Wal w entered Edward the Utns Chapel to sign the register th« m‘law “n S k ' eall h «' daughter Aiim said “Sk Yc ;y of whom the h ° 18 the nicest Pirl I The pealing of the weddiim chimes and the triumphant music announced to the waiting multitudes that the Abbev ceremony was over, and presently, when the truly proud and happv-lookin'r/ groom appeared with the smilin.r „r ‘‘re!ft n th br h 0 Un °» his arm fche shouts rent the heavens,” bells and bands .-,1 human voices blended He hernhi p Pretty, dark-haired softeved n ? 1S into the bridal coach, and they we.'? off .p*. »i»t« ie rT nt roes and then went on p", *»<! meeeed enil I,b„„ e,„t„, K was more wonderful than anything they had ever heard; the ladies more bHutiful than the Lancashire lasses; nothing like ■ t m their part; wish the Duke would get married again and they could have it all over again!

Thousands of hapnv East End children were blessing the Duke, who had provided in many districts a tea of meat pies and wedding cake and gifts of sweets and fruit to tane away from the halls of festivity to finish up at a picture palace. Many squads of the Duke’s little guests spent “the time of their life” that afternoon and evening. The wedding breakfast was served in two rooms. in the State dining room, seated at six tables, were 66 members of the two families with bridesmaids. In the ball supper-room were 57 other guests.. Large vases of ~old were filled with oink tulips lilac. On the right of the King sat the bride, on the left the bride’s mother, and beside her was the Prince of ties. The King proposed the toast of long life and happiness to the bride and bridegroom. Directly afterwards the guests passed into the green drawing-room, and the bride, assisted by the- Duke of Connaught, cut the cake. It was an informal and happy party. To the joy of the waiting throngs, the bride and iridejjroom, the -Aiig and Queen and Queen Alexandra appeared on the Palace balcony. Then later came the merry scene of departure of the hapnv pair, pelted bv the royal party with rose-leaves and confetti, and the drive to Waterloo through cheering crowds. In a rose embowered compartment they started on tile first stage of their honeymoon journey and at Brookham. Station. Surrey, received an address and enthusiastic welcome, then proceeded by motor-car to Polesden Lacey through the quiet of the country evening. Xlle . bride’s going away dress was a charming simple dress and coat made of dove grey crepe georgette, embroidered in (Eastern design in the same shade, with a long coat of ueeoer tone over this, of silk marocain, handsomely trimmed with fiat roses of the same material, with this she wore a small hat framing the face, and a drooping ostrich feather to match. London had a haopy gala night, note] dining rooms and ballrooms were transformed with flowers—peop-Je danced under floral wedding-bells. (And I am reminded tuat the wonderful Abbey peal of eight, bells rung by members ’of the Abbey Guild of liingers, consisted of 5056 changes and occupies three hours and 25 minutes It started at 12.45, and did not end till t-ie bride and ,-ridegrcom were on their way to the station to start their honeymoon.) ■’

But the gala was not confined to one *0 London. The London party of t-fic Duke’s little guests numbered 8200. but he had sent £SOO each to several of tae cities and in York 13,000 poor chilV n Cardiff 300°; Glasgow «jO,COO ; Belfast SOjO, and Edinburgh 60,”0 bike, sent a message to hi s little guests saying.- “I t is a real pleasure to me to think that you are my guests on my wedding day. My wife and I hope ? V V, ;V all have a ft o *** time now, and in the future.”

” aa dinners and dances and suppers and souvenir surprises occupied the West End night, but the most brilliant ball was that at Lansdown House, which the Marchioness Curzon of Kedleston organised tor Queen Victoria’s Institute for Nurses. T.e Prince of Wales dined with Lady Curzon and party at Claridges Hotel before going on to the ball, acoomnanied by Prince George The ball wa s a very brilliant affair, the grounds of Lansdown House illuminated, and the reception ,oom a and ballroom massed with flowers. .Many wonderfm gowns and jewels were worn nad-- t.ujrzon in white lace and silver and a magnificent diamond bandeau looked lovely. But my s~ace is filled, and the half not told.

IN FASHION’S REALM,

WEEK2.Y UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

By

MARGUIRUTA

I am often amazed at the resourcefulness of the dross material makers. Season bv season new materials are launched, and there are the .names —easy enough to suggest what they are, but French enough to please the palate of refinement. But “without worrying further let there be a reminder that, no matter under what name, Old English or New French, the materials of now are extremely beautiful, and. as regards price, m marked contrast to what the corresponding ones were in the bad days of a few years ago. Black and white is in great request—liopsac skirtings. black ground and ciLlier a stiipe or check; and novelty skirtings, black ground with fancyart stripe, the one wool the other silk. And black and grey too, as velour skirtings, black ground and fancy grey design in checks, etc. All black for skirtings will always be favoured, and so serges marooains, tricotines, and gabardines, skirtings being enlargable in cases to suits and frocks. The suit with the open coat permits of a waistcoat- —that is, if you like to call what

is shown one. I have done it in a check, but a stripe will be found just as pleasing’ The real object of the sketcli is to emphasise that charming trick of pinching the side into a simulated belt. Somehow or other it suggests a blouse and a coat together. Braid will be used to pick out what you- see, but. it. may just as easily Ix 3 a striped material. The Skirt of such a costume will be quite plain. Goats are galore—practical tweed coats, fashioned with convertible collars, bolts, and pockets; velour cloth coats, tailored and trimmed with cable stitching; and all wool velour coats in dolman shapes with set-in

sleeves. I am not advertising, but writif ? b-ul. 1 still say that now is the rime to" buying if you want a bargain. As we sa.so over the tea cups when we happen t." know, why not here? And al the coar shapes this winter are excellent. Here I have repeated that coat just, ilhi/trated, with a little difference, used a different •;waistcoat” and added the skirt, *> completing the picture. Hie simulated boil

appears to be a little deeper because it has less on it. A little braid, repeated on the sleeve, serves, and, as you see, serves well. And, by the way, note the hat, because I want to say something again on the subject of position. This refers to the bow. Ihe idea of a bow at the top of the crown instead of on the brim came along some years ago. but there are bows and bows, if you l3c-k height, then, with a crown—observe —in line with the contour of your lace, apply just such a bow as shown anil just where you see it, and then ask your friend if she doesn’t thinly you have grown an inch or so at least. There are many ways of suggesting height simply because there_ are many ways of taking from it. The first law runs with patterns—stripes to wit. , All perpendicular stripes suggest height even as all horizontal ones do the other thing. And there it is at once. When it comes to a hat you can gain or lose by the mere shape alone, but more by the way it is trimmed. Let the crown carry the lines of the face up a bit, and the trimming bo the right kind and raised, and you must gain something— at least in appearance.

I am very taken with these little coats. Here I show you one of a different order and closed. It- buttons as an artist sometimes buttons his coat in the studio, as though it didn’t matter, one button and

low down. It is a very pretty model, and is greatly helped by the stripe. This makes the collar and the cuffs, and flounce-borders the coat itself. The higher materials include the art brocades. You can get them in both dark and fight shades, and the designs are lovely. They include, too, the check and striped taffetas, admirable for afternoon frocks, such combination as these being popular—black ana white, navy and red, navy and henna, navy and saxe, navy and emerald, etc. And, needless to say, there are the velveteens, always a perfect choice for a stylish dress because they are perfect in themselves. Shimmering beauty is secured in the satin grenadines, satin “elegant ” cashmere de soies, crepe charmants, and crepe inarocains, ihe colours being far too many -to mention seeing that they embrace all known to the art of man. Crepe marocain, however, may bo touched, because it is such an ideal thing tor any kind of drape gown. You can get it, all being well, in silver grey, salmon, sand, beige, slate, beaver, grey, coral.

maize, eatt de nil, navy, black, and anything else. I should select it for a dress of this kind —a lavsdy tiling no matter how considered.