WORLD'S DRESS GENIUS.

Otago Witness, Issue 3590, 2 January 1923, Page 24

WORLD'S DRESS GENIUS.

‘‘LUCILE” LEAVES HER OWN FAMOUS FIRM. Lady Duff-Gordon, universally known as “Lucile,” one of the world’s greatest dress designers, has left the firm of Lucile (Ltd.), on account of a disagreement. She founded the firm nearly 30 years ago. Lady Duff-Gordonls name has (say s the Daily Express) long been associated with all that is exquisite and beautiful in women’s dress. She has a great genius for combining colours and much of her fame has been achieved by the designing of her wonderful ptStel gowns, in which she blended soft hues with a remarkable flower-like delicacy. She has been the creator of the “emotional” gown, a garment so called because it was executed to harmonise with the temperament of the wearer. “Thank goodness, I am free now !’’Lady Duff-Gordon said. “I have been involved in serious worry and trouble for two years. I agreed in 1918 to the suggestions of Mr Otto Bernard Shuloff. of New York, that he should amalgamate Lucile with his own tremendous American wholesale dress house. “It was not intended that his own business should in any way touch ’Lucile.’ We entered into an arrangement by which I was to receive £6OOO a year as dress designer, with a vast share of the potential profits, while Mr Shuloff managed the business and also took a percentage of the profits. “I blame myself for entering into this agreement.” Lady Duff-Gordon added that difficulties had arisen because other designers had been employed by the firm. “I had to state,” she continued, “that I would not work for the firm any longer, and thus broke my contract which had another two years to run. “My studio helper is waiting for me now in Paris, and later perhaps I shall design drosses once again—but not under the name of Lucile. “It has been stated that I am penniless, hut this is not the case. Do I look penniless? The greater part of my debts are business debts.” Lucile (Ltd.), evolved from the designing of a tea gown. Twenty-nine years ago Lady Duff-Gordon, finding herself in straitened circumstances, designed a tea gown for the, Hon. Mrs Arthur Brand. The gown was such a success that orders came in dozens, and four years later its creator opened the Hanover square branch. The New York house was founded bv her in 1910. A year later the Paris branch was opened. The Chicago branch, the most palatial of all, was opened in 1915.

Lucile influenced every branch of the dressmaking trade. Lady Duff-Gordon brought the first mannequins to London, and so lovely were the girls she selected that her dress shows, held twice yearly, became great social events. She set fashions that became famous. The. hobble skirt and Russian boots were sponsored by Ladv Duff-Gordon. who is the sister of Mrs Elinor Glyn, the famous novelist.