Beauty Midway Between Two Uglinesses.

Otago Witness, Issue 3514, 19 July 1921, Page 50

Beauty Midway Between Two Uglinesses.

M \ZIRTUE,” says Aristotle, “is a mean ® between two vices. - ’ Thus generosity is a mean between foolish extravagance and avarice; modesty a mean between prudishr.ess and wantonness; a good comedy a mean between a revue and a propagandist play. I suppose the reverse is true —i. 0., that, a vice is a mean between two virtues. But there i„s probably something wrong in the assumption. Like the converse of “All -■abbag'es are vegetables,” which is “Alt vegetables are cabbages,” and which landed one in a logical mudole in one’s schooldays The axiom holds goods when applied t< beauty; a beautiful figuro is the mean between the ugly extremes of leanness, and obesity., A beautiful face has neither tomuch nor too little hair upon it—crudely, in a woman, tfiq eyebrows and lashes are luxuriant-, yet no downy growth blurs the outline of cheek and upper lip. Our convention which demands that women shouk have long eyelashes but no moustache* would probably seem curious to certaF savages who shave eyebrows and lashes, am admire moustaches in women, just as cu partiality for white teeth would nstonis' the Hottentots who prefer them black o yellow ! In Europe, however, and among thcivilised Eastern races, the beauty that lor curling eyelashes and delicately marked brows cannot be over-estimated. What glorious lashes on* sees in the East especially among tb* Greek trills in tb. native quarter of Cairo. The tendency among such beauties to grow superfluous

EASTERN AND WESTERN IDEALS.

hair on the face is combated by the razor or by depilatory paste, recipes handed down sometimes from the days of Cleopatra er the glory of Carthage. In this country women are beginning to re.aliso that neither shaving nor electrolysis are ideal for removing unwanted hair. A method which is steadily gaining in popularity is that of treat.ng the superfluous hair with a paste made oi pure preminol and water, 'the paste is spread - ither thickly on the hair, and allowed to dry thoroughly. The hair is completely destroyed and can then be painlessly removed with a very blunt knife or a piece of cardboard. The application of a little tekko paste is -ecommended after the hair has been re moved with the pheminnl. The trouble with most women, however, ■5 not that they have too much hair on heir face, tut too little. Scanty eyebrows, nd poor, light lashes are common in this ountry, and often render an otherwise harming face insipid or even plan. b s a good and safe plan to encourage the •’owt.h of brows and lashes by th ■ "casi&n-al applieition of a little mennalino. xennaline is rather a pleasant substance •> use, and it has the advantage of not n’v increasing the growth of the eye- * ashes, but also of giving them a delightful nclination to curl up at the tips. The eyes owe half their expression and ■h'>rm to the lashes surrounding them, just ’s th 6 face owes so much to its frame of hair.

indicate what the skirt would be like. That clever “catch ’ on the side serves for gathers, and the skirt gains from as much in the consequent folds. The long mantle-like coat that serves as a dress at the same t'me is fairly fascinating. I have one before me in a rich play! material. It has a very deep, capelike collar, and has two “wings” in place of sleeves, the coat closing like a wrap. The embroidery is important. The collar is covered with it, the “wings” are finished with it, and the design then is carried on to the coat itself, ail round, in a very prV„i.y way. Finally the “wings” are tasBellod. I turn to another, again the sleeveless kind, though a cape ending in frontat jtV.ut the sleeve line suggests, when* vie—c-d from the front, a sleeve of the flar ing character. There is a large collar, and tl»3 front of the coat is cleverly “cut” at the waist line, at the side, to admit of a yvHlo. which, tying, falls in two long fringed ends. Embroidery is again employed—on the collar and cape. A charming coat of the kind embraced, in velour, has a huge cape-like collar, sleeves that merge with the sid.e, and a contour of semi-peg-top character. It is stitching that makes this coat good—rows and rows on the collar, but, in sets of two, and rows and rows down the back to the hip level, but also in sets of two, finish with ornaments; a fun lie,r embellishmen t being a simulated slashing at the sides in that there js a row of closely-set buttons. An exquisite coat of more orthodox character, ending a few inches above the hem of the skirt, has sleeves coming from the side with roll cuffs, and with the collar a turnover, this comes down all the way like a stole, with a braided treatment, for a finish. The designs employed for the decoration of these coats js invariably bold, but always artistic. with and without borders of stitches to improve them. With so many beautiful dresses it is often a ta c k to pick nut one for a good illustration. and the more so for a distinctive result. Bnl this attracted me because of its originality. The coat is in jumper style in front, anil then in whatever other stvlo you 'like to sav at bit'!;, when T comes down all the way. and so is the dress extent. All this i bordered, and as the sketch gives it, with fur. The front of flie =!;;;i is emphatically peculiar, os with (lie material in two flounces or sections, lace in tone is superimnosi d for two depths in order to give the effect, of three divisions. A French model of the best kind, all complete with a hat in tone that

wv:jwrsjirsii no- ■te.?£gg*j I repeats the fur, and with a muff that peats it again.

i,.ouses where they are worn are essentially with seasonable features. With respect to those that end at the waist, a favourite style is the one with the crossing trouts under a shield, these fronts forming, n.s it were, a kind of girdle or belt, and the shield itself resting pendant from a

collar of the flat, turn over character. Even so, the blo-vse may not really end at the waist, as it may have a tiny apron-like extension, and it is almost bound to be embellished. A more liked style is one with a jumper effect through a "below-belt-Ime section, fitting more or less closely; -and the most liko.l of all is the overblouse that, is really a jumper—"V” collar turned, rolled back; extension being with waistband sides and back, but without it. and so sheer, in frant; sleeves flared and caught in over long cuffs, and the front extension richly worked. The evening cloak is sometimes an opera cloak and sometimes something mo-re or less. I saw one the other day, and was attracted with the collar. It looked for all t.,e world like a “pink” in full bloom, with tno fair weaver’s head looking forth as part and parcel of it. As it,' savoured of tne choice I decided to sketch it, and here

it is, as well as a few lines can produce tho desired result. Almost anyone should be able to make an evening cloak of the character indicated, and also, as I think, this collar to give it distinction. Tweeds are good selections nowadays, and will be of increasing value as the time proceeds. The variety to be found in any well-stocked store is simply bewildering. Incidentally a tweed worth a special line is what they call the teddy bear coating tweed. It is a novel as well as a good tweed, and can be had, as I understand, in quite a variety of shades. In millinery there is a great liking just now for smart- jiull-on shapes—-little hats that have what is called chic. Picture such a hat with a silk velvet crown in flamingo pink, with a knitted puttywool brim, with cords from the crown, and ended with two wool pompoms at side. Then I referred the other day to the tarns —alas, why were not in greater evidence. There is a demand for something of American origin—the velvet tam. It will be something with a pretty design in silk stitching on the crown, this being caught down at the side with silk and velvet poms. It is not always easy to give a full costume in condensed form, but here is a case in which it may be done a-t once. All that is needed is to cut the section out of the panel, carry it down to a full-figure length, connect the lines, and it is there. The ooat-frook is often a bit of a trial, because of the monotony of the line —there is too much sameness. This particular

frock is marked off below the waist, and with a panel to continue the design to the hem, lias a pleated overskirt, or what looks like such, the length being shortened for a semi-tunic effect. These are the dresses that always develop in quite plain goods with unmixed advantage, though, needless to say, a little stitehery may be introduced if specially desired. In connection with coining dances, I would remind you that a little admixture of gold tinsel is much favoured with delicate tints of tulle and net —in the girdle, at neck, sleeves, and hem. Shot silks are also a good rival in greens and reds, needing little other embellishment than frills and ruchings of self. Iridescent nets were nova* more beautiful; panels and other touches of same with black sill; is much favoured by matrons.

LALMLV GOSSIP, At least one ring, and frequently two or three bangles, of black onyx or ebony are now being worn by all smart Parisian women. They are supposed to show up to greater perfection the accompanying diamonds and other precious stones. A large number of Chinese girl students are now in Paris, having been sent by the Government to qualify in medicine, law, science and art, so that on their return they may be able to teach these subjects on European lines. Last, year the infant, mortality returns for England established a record on the right side, being only 80 per thousand. It is of course hoped greatly to lower this, which is much higher, as is natural, than that of Australasia. A mirror may bp used effectively to brighten a. dull roam, particularly if you arrange to make it reflect some brightly coloured ohjei ts, or the fire. Critics are unanimous in their admiration of the genius of Miss Dorothy Howell, the young Birmingham pianist, whose oompo-ition. “Lamia,” was produced at the Queen’s Hall, London, recently. Young. charming, and pretty, Miss Hoy, Ts ambition has always been to make a name for herself as a composer. In Birmingham musical circles she is widely known as a pianist of exceptional ability. An Athens message states that Madame Manos, widow of the late King Alexander of Greece, has given birth to a daughter. King Alexander, it will be recalled, died from the effects of a monkey bite. He married Mdlle. Manos, a beautiful commoner, secretly in November 1919, and

HOME SMTERESTS.

there were complications when he took his morganatic bride to Athens. By virtue of a new law passed before the King’s death, however, Madame Manos was made his legal wife, in rpite of the text that the marriage was solemnised without the fulfilment of the usual formalities. SPRiHC-G L£AN IN G INSPECTORS. In Japan spring-cleaning, which taken place in the spring and autumn too, is ■done under police supervision, anti woe betide the housewife who cannot satisfy the inspecting officer that- every article of furniture and bedding, and every straw mat on the floor has been shifted and thoroughly aired outside, and the bare walls and floors of the house properly scoured. If, however, the inspector finds all these things have been, properly done, he affixes a notice to the gate-post with his official seal informing ail and sundry that the hou.se has performed its biannual “great cleaning.” WOMEN AS CRIMINALS. Women compare favourably with men in that the proportion of criminals among them is very much smaller, yet in certain serious offences women preponderate, as a writer in the Daily Mai* shows. Murder by poisoning is more frequently committed by women than by men, in some European countries the number of women poisoners being double that cf men. Burglary ana large thefts are uncommon among women, but petty thieving very common, while kleptomania is mainly a feminine aberration. Women adventurers and swindlers are stated to excel in weaving romances and stage acting for the deception of their dupes, and the pathological liar who takes a morbid pleasure in deceit apart from end to be gained, is more frequently a woman than a man. Women too are stated to be more vindictive and to make more refractory prisoners than men. Dr Forbes Wislow has given it as his experience that women are less easily influenced than men by a moral appeal and seldom repentant. This seems but a development of the old dictum that a bad woman is worse than a bad man.

HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS. A cork dipped in paraffin is a splendid thing for removing rust spate from metal of any kind. Grated carrot is excellent for adding to suet-pudding in place ‘of eggs. One medium-sized carrot will taka the place of two eggs. Be sure the basin and knife are dry when whisking an egg. There will then be no difficulty in getting it to foam qn ickly. If a fire has to be left unwatched for several hours, put a handful of salt on top of the coals. This will prevent the coal burning away too quickly. It is difficult to turn out spongy cakes without breaking them. Immediately on removal from the oven, place the tin on a wet cloth for a few minutes. This makes the cake contract, loosening it from the tin. If there is any difficulty in turning out a hot pudding, wrap a cloth round it that has been wrung out in cold water for a minute or two, and the pudding will slip out quite easily. For Jellies and cold puddings, let the cloth be wrung in hot water. Some people maintain that it is injurious to wash the hair frequently, but anything that is dirty is not healthv. The hair should be washed every fortnight, especially if livino- in a, city, and hairbrushes and combs cleansed once a week. To keep the hair a good colour do not ire strong soaps or borax. Castille or barilla soap, being very pure and free from strong alkalies, are best. Have the hair pointed and singed once in three months. This prevents the hair from forking, and when that happens the colour fades readily. The trimming of the hair may he learnt at home after being done once at a good hairdresser’s. The various members of the family can do it for each other. Potato water cleans silk of anv kind or colour. For every quart of water to be used in washing a dress, for instance, pare and grate one large potato. Put the grated potato into the water, which must be soft water and cold ; let stand for two days without being disturbed in any way, then verv carefully pour off the clear liquor from the sediment into a large, convenient, vessel. Dip the pieces of silk up ■and down in it. Silk must not be creased by wring it; let it hang and drip nearly dry, then lay it flat on one side, and then on the other. If necessary to press it, do so between flannel with a moderate iron. Grease spots on silk are eradicated by the use of a hot iron and blotting paper. To clean dirty white silk ties rub them with powdered French chalk or magnesia, and when finished brush this off with a clothes brush.

GREEN PEA SOUP. ■ ■ asli and soak tlu of whole dried pens over night. Next day put tlio pons on with 11 quarts of water (six breakfastcupfuls) and a pinch of baking soda. Allow to b-.il for an hour and a-lialf, then add a quarter of a turnip, and blade or two c.f celery. After the addition of the vegetables boil the soup for another hour and a-lialf, then strain and rub the vegetables th rough the sieve. Return the soup to the pot, add a tea.-upful of sweet milk, pepper and salt. When boiling sprinkle in a f ablespoonfnl c.f finely-chop-ped parsley. Serve with fingers of crisp toast. POTTED RABBIT. Wash a nice young rabbit and boil it in salted water till the flesh leaves the bones. Put the meat through a food-chopper, using « fine knife, and chopping with it a good large slice of cooked fat bacon. About a, quarter of a pound of bacon is the right quantity for a rabbit of moderate size. Pound all in a mortar, adding pepper and salt to taste, and a good pinch of mixed spice. Melt ono tablespoonful of butter in a small

pan re-heat the mince in it, atirrinsr till perfectly smooth. Then press it into pets, ri, ?j a , *‘ e milled fat on top, and keep in a c.f place. It will keep for weeks provided that the fat is not broken. CARROT FINGERS. Choose smallish carlo's, and peel thorn, bpnt tnem in quarters lengthwise, so that }ou get pieces more or less like your liitle Unger m size, and shape. Boil them in tGit till they arc tender, and drain item carefully, taking care not to break them. Now melt a good tablespoonfu! of dripping in a frying pan, slice in a largo onion, and fry it till tender. Then add tno carrot fingers, and toss them with the onion till they are nicelv greased all over and well warmed. Serve hot, sprinkled with parsley. SHOULDER OF VRALE A LA BOURGEOIS E. A small leg of veal may bo cooked in the fifirno way. Bono the- shoulder, sorinkl© it \vith pepper and salt, roll it into a neat shape, and tie it with string. Molt in a s oYv-pan large enough to take ihe roll whm it lies flat two tablespocnsfuls of good lard or dripping, and fry the roll, turning it from side to side till it is <i nice brown. Then, pour in one pint of water. Add one saltspoonful of salt, and two bay leaves, bring th.s pan to the boil, and then uncover it and put it in a hot oven. Cook it exactly like a roast, basting it often, and, at the end of three-quarters of on hour or so, turning it in the pan so that both sides may get nicely browned. Let it stay in the even a quarter of an hour for each pound Iliat the meat weighs. Put the meat on a hot dish and pour the gravy round and over it, using a little water, if necessary, to wash out the good gravy thr.t has stuck to the bottom of the pan. A shoulder of mutton or a leg of lamb may -also be cooked in this way. Do not keep them in the oven quite so long as veal, as they do not need to be quite so well done. CUMBERLAND OATCAKE. Required: Medium oatmeal, 4oz; flour, 1 ioz; butter, ljoz; carbonate of soda, a quarter of a level teaspoonful; cream of tartar, a quarter of a level teaspoonful; salt, a quarter of a level teaspoonful; milk, about throe tablespoonfuls. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the milk, moke warm, but. not hot. Stir into the oatmeal, etc., mix it well in. kneading it on the board briskly. If it crumbles, work in a little more milk or water. Divide into two rounds, roll these out about as thick as a half-crown. Cut across in four, so that each round makes four triangular pieces. Place on a baking tin, and bake in a moderate oven till crisp, but not browned. Good dripping or lard can be used, or, of course, butter. These keep well in a tin, and can be toasted or re-cnsped in the oven when reeded. Can bo cooked on a hot greased girdle, if liked.