IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3500, 12 April 1921, Page 50

IN FASHION’S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRES3 NOTES

By

Marguerite.

Seldom has it been so difficult to single out any special style and rave about it fco far as i can see, La Mode has decreed all stylos more or less equal. The two things that call aloud for more than ordinary attention are the length of the blouse and tiie length of the skirt. The one is long enough to convey a,n idea of the jumper'; the other short enough to conform .vith orders Irorn the arch-priestess who is supposed to lay the law down. Much is being made ot the “sports.” The coats have smart tailored shoulders, pinch backs, tuxedo trouts, and convertible 'collars, and with the right selection in this section there are the skirts that suit —plaids, serges, and so forth. With suits the dominant note is richness—woollens almost like velvets with silk embroideries and fur; long lithe iines to display as much; everything choice. As a model with a coat of finger-tip length, and this embroidered to provide a border, the coat being slashed oyer the hips from the waist; pockets well picked out and “muff”-like collar of ’possum. It is quite the thing to decorate the skirt of the coat, starting at what I may call the tunic level, as when not embroidered everything below this line may be pleated. Blouses are seen in many adorable examples of the slip-on variety, and made more so with chenille and tinsel embroidery, and again of the “buttou-me-up” kind, richly trimmed more often than not. We are going fairly crazy over cm broideries. Assuredly they were never more fashionable. But if all this work were done at home there would be little time for anything else. This gets one to the transfer The best mechanical results are never quits the equal of the moderately good hand ones, but the one advantage the transfer has is this : the drawing is generally of the best. They offer them in flowers and sprays, and again in birds and butterflies, many being for borders. You could use transfers with some advantage on these slashed long coats or tunics. Take the example shown, simply the ends over the skirt., the background being filled in to

show things up. Designs of this character require to be very true to rule or they look a botch. The millinery styles often call for veils, and this is quite independent of what the season decrees on account of weather. 1 observe black silk mesh nets embroidered in a floral design and sewn in tinsel; ditto with tinsel scrolls in silver and gold with velvet spots; ditto embroidered with scrolls of silver and gold with combined velvet designs. And i notice before them all black silk mesh nets most richly embroidered in tinsel thread, the chief recommendation apart from their beauty being in their length—over 50 inches. Speaking ot there tinsel effects, it is given out that evening attire will often scintillate with such laces and additionally with opalescent sequins. As examples of the materials I note these: White net allover embroidered in iridescent sequins and beads; black net allover treated equally well in black and coloured ditto; same again embroidered in iridescent steel and coloured beads and sequins, bo much for materials. In conjunction I note no end of insertions, edgings, and motif laces treated in the same Way, and all of Uiqm very rich and rare. jS '1 he wrap is, or will be, tho garment par excellence. 3 peaking generally, these wraps exhibit a purity of line rarely touched in other yeais. Tho materials to start with are often most luxurious, three names being duvetyn, chamoist vile, and vel d(> eygne. 'I hey are invariably both soft of surface and deep of nap. Coats of many kinds have a wrappy appearance, and capes more so. They are frequently much embroidered with fur for a trimming, as ’possum, squirrel, seal, beaver, and nutria.

Colours favoured with the wrap include navy and black, “admiral,” “corsair,” etc. Sweater coats of fancy box stitch with pockets and butterfly belts are pretty; brush Angoras are equally so. Belted scarves for sports wear catch my eye, those being of cashmere, camel’s hair, or brushed wool, their fluffy softness being matched by their warmth The wealth of fur trimming is noteworthy—strips used v.itn dresses, suits, and hats. One can do wonders with addments as selected from the “scrap-table.” Half the art in good dressing is in knowing how to employ accessories; part of the other half in being clever enough to utilise unconsidered trifles. With so many styles to choose’from it is sometimes a task to choose one for :> picture. This is in contrast to what I have given before. With the silken fabrics so

and where it is pleated at all the mere lilies to start with suggest the rest. It is the bodice that counts, and so there 13 vet another style, simple enough, but admirably balanced. The long effect is nearly all ruling, and, for the rest, the collar is stitched on the pdge, a vest shows, and a cord girdle I'misW'es. ‘'Among the fabrics and materials used in the making of the evening wraps is stamped velvet. This fabric shows beautiful designs, and looks very effective. One wrap noted was of black velvet, stamped with gold in a rose design. It showed graceful draped lines, with a collar to match. The lining gave an extra, finish to the wrap, being fashioned of shot lemon and blues, the colour of a periwinkle. The linings of many wraps are gorgeous—no other word is applicable,—for the richness of tin' lining is often more beautiful than the actual wrap material. Georgette is now

delightfully lustrous it is sometimes a temptation to gild the rainbow. The design speaks for itself well enough to require no further mention. One has to be careful just now bow one puts ono’s money out —not because of any lack of choice, but because of a somewhat bewildering one. The thing to observe is the law oi necessity—to get essentials first, and then with some regard for their life. Thei materials are exquisite and tho colpur ings superb. Serge is much to the fore, as in a onepiece frock, plain, loose lit, round neck, long sleeves; neck, hip-line, and Cliffs ornamented in contrastive stitching, vestee of self treated in tho same way; or as in a one-piece again with round neck and three-quarter sleeves, long-waisted effect with slight gatherings on the hips, ornamented throughout with braid, girdle with sash ends finished with tassels; or as in a costume on smart straight lines, round nook with convertible collar, vestee of self, narrow girdle, ornamented with soutache. But if 1 am to speak of costumes, lot me be more particular. I’ll take three oi’ about tho same value. The' first is a wool serge in dark saxe, coat with the popular rever collar, lined to waist with polonaise, smartly belted and trimmed with self buttons, skirt plain. Then a wool serge in black, tailored rever collar bound with silk braid, the sides of coat also braided, narrow belt, plain start Then a wool serge, the coat lined to waist with Jap silk, collar in roll style fastening in front with buttons of self, cuffs stitched and trimmed in the same way, skirt plain. Leather now is quite ordinary, and we look for it. I saw a leather vest —a beautiful affair, and as soft to the touch as to the eye. Leather trimmings are seen, and will be seen again. As one use, picture a frock in brown gaberdine with “V” neck iSnd long-wailted bodice, lined with georgette to waist-line, skirt aceordeonplcated with stitching at intervals m a contrastive shade. The leather come in in patent, which appears on the neck and on edge of sleeves, a further ornament being tiny steel buttons. There is a practical value in sectional pictures iust now. Where the skirt is quite plain it is always easy to describe it,

being used for a lining, as, with a wrap of stamped velvet, a lining in pastel colours — not unlike a rainbow—in georgette. Each row of the different-toned fabrics was neatly rucked where it joined its neighbour. ’! he effect was most dainty and uncommon r ! he collar of this cloak was high arid reversible, and made of Oriental satin.” What appl ed to the former design applies again to this. The skirt being quite plain.

the only concern is with the bodic®. The long-waisted effect is cleverly attained in the simplest way by overlapping a flat “cable” as shown. The design is one of several of equal prettiness, and as good as any other.