IN FASHION’S REALM

Otago Witness, Issue 3495, 8 March 1921, Page 48

IN F ASHION’S REALM

Marguerite.

WEEKLY T PTO DATE DRESS NOTES.

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T that much of what has' prevailed in* summer has been carried forward—that is as regards the general idea. But, neces-sa-ri'v autumn is with an advance to lower temperatures, and to some departures have been rendered necessary if only on this one recount, and one of the chief, perhans real'v the chief, is the abandonment of the verv abort sleeve, with the promise of its relegation to obscurity. As regards the contour generally the straightness of hue we have grown to like so well will be maintained, and yet again lost as from the waist, down bv the increased fulness where this is demanded. And if will he demanded bv a new and striking feature—the added side treatment, or which more in a moment when T can demonstrate it. A very notieeahb thing will he the popularity of the one-niece, whether this is actually so or bv effect, though how the latter is

>*<> Ul ' 111 to be achieved I cannot say. A good deal of braiding-—for which let us be truly thankful ; and a good deal of added cut out design work simulating stencilling but ever so much better, mav be seen if once it catches on. Then frilling will not be out of place, but it will be severe, and then not much of it. and something may yet have to be said of corilings. The one-niece will he very popular, and som''tim"s the monotony of the lecture as likely with the one niece will he prevented by applying braid in some tasteful design to simulate something different. This is a vet-v good example of yvhat I mean. _ Bv carrying the lines down, in vnur “mind’s py-e." you mav have the dress romnlere at- once' and with that remark there is the addition- a simple design of the sea-frond character to he express’d with a verv narro.v braid. As the glance shows, it does quite a lot of tilings. It conveys the idea of a break and. what is more, snfgests.in a fashion the idea of a “belt.” the while, when seen on the sleeve, it. almost provides

Tbe one-pieoe ■will have a very deep “V” •itber of choice or necessity, and so provide the excuse for an in6et which, harmonising with the collar or cuffs, or both, will naturally reflect the selection used for them —plain or patterned. But the “V” .will not always go so far as the waist —in faot, more often than not it will end some inches above it—sharply if you will, or with an ornament if this is not calculated to destroy the effect. The one-piece will be the ideal selection with the new designs, and for this reason. Used simply—that is to say, with its lines its one recommendation—it will suit all who need that slender effect; while used with a hip treatment it will equally suit all who want that additional volume. An important thing—always an important, thing—is the length of the skirt. With so much already said, and much of it of a contradictory character, curiosity has no doubt been aroused as to whether it will be longer. If what I have seen already may be accepted as final, then I should say that the prevailing length will be continued with—dare I go so far? —the least inclination to something less. If we follow “my leader” the other side of the world m her autumn, then assuredly it will be emphatically less. Here is an ideal autumn one-piece—an exquisite thing, which illustrates much of what was in my mind a few minutes ago when penning a previous paragraph. The lines speak for themselves —straight, or as nearly straight as it is possible to get them, with a low “V” with the inset in

keeping with the treatment on the sleeves, and with tire collar with a hedge-like frill of very charming character. But the cardinal note is the side treatment —a distinct pleated section that suggests, as it is meant to do, an additional one. It is frilled because of the position selected for the attaching, and for the rest hangs to a convenient depth. Taken all in all, with its waist-cord, ends, and “tassels” to complete it is as pretty a thing as you would find in a day’s march. I annex this frankly, as a useful item relating to evening attire generally: ‘‘Most of the gowns have either a plain foundation of soft satin or one of kilted material Over this comes a tunic softly draped and edged with crystal fringe or a rucliing of ribbon. They make the sweetest ruches with narrow ribbon and a pearl. Then flowers are much used, hanging in a long trail from the waist or tucked into the wide ceinture. Sometimes deep kilted draperies stand away from the hips. In fact, you may arrange a dancing frock much as you like. Black Chantilly worn over bright blue satin is much to the fore. One is so glad to see lace worn so much. Embroideries are worn on long stole-like hands coming over the shoulders, and going to the hem of the kilted under-dress. Now and again the skirt is cut, shorter at the sides than at. the hack and front, Or vou have ’he skirt longer at the sides than anywhere. All skirts are above the ankles, and the most lovelv silken hose and smart shoes give a finish. Bodices are very simple and sleeves mostly of the kimono style.” It is with this for the word —a style 1 selected because I believe that a good deal will be made of these lacing effects before the season is over. The idea is decidedly pretty, and would be all the more so in the

actual tiling. “Diamond” by “dianjnnd” the lacing is continued from the oolSur to the waist and then tied off in the wat you see But note the sympathetic treatment with the sleeve where the little trick is seen to even greater advantage. I have it on good authority that in future there will he far less risk with the dyes. With the autumn goods the dyes, in addition to being very beautiful, will one and all, practically speaking, be proof against the insidious encroachments of sun and rain. It would have been a misfortune to enter the “woollens” seasons again without this guarantee. I myself have shed a tear or two at different times over what you will imagine—perhaps your own experience too. In pre-war days dyes used to be like the “leopard's spots,” there to stay; but, of course, the war altered things, and we had to make the best of it. With so much resettled as before, we can look ahead to all cur old privileges plus those introduced as the result of resourcefulness. Another little oversea annex, and perhaps a bit in advance this: —“Fox. day wear the tailor-made costume with a very long coat is right, but this style of costume gives place to the coat frock worn under fur garments. It may be a cloak, or one of the very wide stoles, or a coat with cuff and shoulder furs. Small hats, with the trimming standing away low down on the right side, or a floral <;ap of velvet fitting the head tightly, look wonderfully well with fur wraps. Linings are gorgeous. Even the new mercerised linings printed to look like silk are quite inexpensive.” Apparently furs are coming in at the right hour in all their usual glory. I selected this for just one reason —the collar. There is quite a Puritan look about it, and it appeals to me strongly. _ It is quaint, too, the way one side is em-

broidered, as though an after-thought by the wearer. As the sleeve is raised it is clear that something of the same kind v done there. The design is of the dress or a blouse pure and simple, according as it may happen. | ; ; I