IN FASHION'S REALM

Otago Witness, Issue 3494, 22 February 1921, Page 50

IN FASHION'S REALM

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES

By

Marguerite.

Given a suitable shape for the purpose, a.nd it ought to be possible to have three or four trimmings for the one hat and to be able to rotate them at will without the least- effort of any consequence. It ought, I contend, to be possible to practioally “impin” and to “repin,” so that, with changes in attire generally, the same hat may be made to take as many turns and look original in each. As in this case —a hat I selected as a peg for these very remarks. Straw suits the purpose, and is, perhaps, the only basis that does. The share is one of the most popular, the exigencies of space causing me to leave the brim, to some extent, to your imagination. You may have it a brim ail round or narrowed at the back in order to give it a cap-like effect. And so to the trimmings, simply three rows of silk with a

drooping bo.v and ends oil the side and to the back, and this patterned as you do not see, or patterned as you do. And now remove it and substitute a spray—one of the kind where buds and leaves are at intervals ; or, again, a trail from a cluster, the latter being where the bow is now. Hats have been given an immeasurably longer life through what has come to assist them. Let us be grateful that trimmings are so easily fixed, and incidentally to the dyeexperts which enable us to change the shade. You will see exquisite woollens this year. The forerunners will be for autumn; the noble ones for winter. I have been reading about them-—all the old '.yea ves, some with a little originality, and the shades wonderful. As for the patterns, it must puzzle the manufacturer to think of anything fresh, and yet he has thought of them and, what is more, succeeded. At the same time I am not harping on woollens. Cottons will continue to have their place everything being a question of weights, and as for silks they have only one season, and it is the 365 days of the year. I gave the coat in this costume before, but it did not convoy its proper volume treated alone. Here it is with the skirt, and if everything is not so clear as usual

it is due to the patterning—l ran it in to render the blouse distinct. The coat hangs

free and straight and is boyish, and you will see that the turned front is edged—silk or a braid according to the basis. The one value the skirt has is that it illustrates the width and length of an acceptable one. The selection is a further illustration of the prevailing simplicity in styles. With so much millinery showing so little of the hair it must strike some that the coiffure does not matter. And yet it does matter, and that very materially. In which connection I have snipped this from the writings of another: “A well-dressed coiffure is an essential point with every woman, whether she be in neglige or smartly dressed. At the present moment there is a craze for brushing the hair straight off from the forehead without a parting, with rather wide rolls on either side of the face, quite low down over the ears. In spite of

the present vogue this style of coiffure is not generally favoured. Many women think that it lacks distinction, and that it cannot compare with the neat and charming lines of a close-coiffed head. But, after all, the dressing of one’s hair is, or rather should be, quite of an individual taste, for what is becoming to one woman may not suit another.” Many'hats are seen in which straw is combined with silk or silk with straw. It is frequently in this form “which, in addition to being the easiest way out, is also the best. The crown is vastly assisted by the brim, a sloppy effect being redeemed

with a severe, and the brim is just as much assisted by the crown, the virtues being' reversed. But the hat gains through something else—that key-board frill, the ends, and finally the border, on the edge. With respect to millinery generally, these observations contain the cardinal notes. It is a season of lace; the lace hat in many colours being much seen on dressy occasions, Jrniiliners, following this trend of fashion, showing the black and white lace hat, and the gold and silver frilled lace hat in many styles, to suit all occasions. The softening influence of a tulle or lacetrimmed hat makes a strong appeal, and transparent brims make a strong bid for favour. Some of the new hats combine crinoline straw and lace. The hat is made of the crinoline straw, sometimes in contrasting colour to the. lace, and then the lace is arranged over the brim in a gathered frill, and draped round the crown. One such mode! of black crinoline straw a.nd white lace over crown, and brim, a single black flower forming the trimming. Another pretty idea is the floral toque entirely composed of small flat coloured blossoms, or else made of side velvet rose petals. Again, another charming variation in millinery appears in the wide-leafed hats of coloured organdie, always a becoming adjunct for the summer frock of the youthful. Hats lean somewhat to the large, and many Leghorn, Tuscan, and lisorp straw hats are of this style. Flowers and fruit are the correct trimmings at the passing moment. While there is nothing much in the side drape there ds always something to ho learned in the way of doing it. Here is the illustration which demonstrates one method. If the dress were complete you would find that front coming down from a

low round neck treated, as you see it, at the waist. The thing to draw attention to is the way the dross appears to be gathered iip under the belt at the side, just as though, the fulness being there, it had been actually treated in this fashion. Though a. very little tiling, it is still prettv, and I have given it for just that one reason. . I have been thinking of patterned materials a good deal, and chiefly of checks. There is nothing more jaunty than a checked skirt with a dark tunic blouse—the kind that comes right on the skirt and is loose to it, and this blouse being open m front, to provide a straight inner panel of white from a collar of same, and to below the waist, the final note being a white silk “belt” tied in .a bow in front, and short sleeves. _ In speaking of the check s.art in this relation I am of course assuming white as the field and the cheek to complexion the blouse. Neckwear as at present introduced would suggest that high-necking is to be favoured even to the be : ruff!ed necklet around the throat. r l he designs are very varied, the vest front and revers, the cane-like hemstitched roll over collar finishing almost at waist, with cuffs to match, the “bib” effect the cross-over pelerine style savourlng of the Puritan maid, and moov others I hose will all add to the charm of the autumn dress of the near future.