IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3418, 19 September 1919, Page 57

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES By Maeguerith. To be really up to date to-day the chief demand is for a slender figure. If the reader has it eo much the better; if she has not she must do the next best thingcounterfeit it. The thing is not so difficult. Some of it is done by the choice of line; some, again, by the choice of pattern. The prevailing fashion of a panel iiont from reck down iends itself to slender effect at once. Then, with a stripe, if this is consistently used in a perpendicular way slenderness is gained through the tuggestion of height. One thing is certain enough, with the slender figure the decree, it will be quite impossible for those not bo blessed to break the shade where two are used by crossing the skirt and having the lower half in contrast. With the arrival of spring—and it will be more with that of summer-rcconomy comes along in spite of the prices. Get awaj' from woollen*, or rather get to silks and cottons, and there is the saving through choice ft once. Thus, to take blouses alone, we have them in the most delightful styles, and because of the material, it would hardly pay to make them up in preference at home. You can get a quite good blouse featuring cno of those elegant stole-like collars,, pleats, and hemstitching even, the cuffs a roll turn-over collar, for a comparative trifle. Or you can get a two-tone stylo in a stripe with a very pretty collar with sailor back and semi-Raglan sleeves closing to a shaped cuff, for about the same. Or again, you may select a blouse which has this original note —it is on quite ordinary lines save for the upper collar section, which is extended from the narrow to the shoulder, has a sailor back and is hemstitched horizontally at distances to convey the idea of a stripe. It is the same with skirts of the washing type and also frocks of the same order. They come gallore, and they come cheap. When it is possible to get an elegantly-cut skirt, with well-shaped band, and delightfully-wrought pockets, or a frock quite good enough for ordinary wear, in a check with <-very thing there, pretty collar and cuffs and buttons to ornament —when, I say, it is possible to get sucb a garment for the prices I see set against them, who would be without? But, of course, there are dresses and dresses. If you are making yourself, remember that style, after line, may be achieved with a very simple feature. I have chosen my four selections this week to emphasise this. While there is nothing

original in the raised skirt section—l refer to above the waist line, —consider the effect of it. This little "corseted" addition, if I may so express myself, in no way takes fiom the blouse, and yet has the effect of giving the skirt more length and the- wearer an inch in height by the simulation. The collar is one of many in the realm of good ones —a very pretty shape, no matter how considerad. From a bouquet of notes of various importance I am emboldened to-copy this: "Simple frocks of fesh-colourcd georgette arc trimmed only with hemstitching except for sashes of colour, rosettes, or ribbon streamers, usually in two colours, in the sweat-pea combination. Little poke bonnets of delicate straw and georgette are trimmed with ribbon only, or with delicate wreaths of flowers and ribbons, and. are lined with a soft colour, generally pink, to give a youthful glow to the complexion. De-murely-printed organdies are being made up into charming frocks, the lines of which conform to the fabric motive, and this develops models of exquisite qualities. "Plaincoloured organdies are also used, many trimmed' with lace, and there is also a marked vogue for coloured flower mot:fs, applied bv hand to sashes, yokes, and cuffs." And thus again:—"Soft-brimmed straw sailors are fashioned in black, navy, and emerald green, also rose red, and are trimmed with crown bands and extremely long streamer ends in gros-grain ribbon of matching colour. An addition to charming headwear, too, is the 'tailored' hat of coarse straw, with a shady front brim, and a close back leaf, sharply turned. The trimming is merely suggested in a toning ribbon band. Ribbon in the form of tiny flowers is a delightful trimming- that will be seen on many girls' dresses'. This trimming naturally gives opportunity for effective colour combinations" The vogue applies to girls of all ages. Swagger little capes and capewraps, quite on the order of those worn by their, elders, are to be accepted rather generally for girls, who, however, will change the medium of these glories f-oro usilks and summer weight velw*s to m ; _-'-or find moonglo' satins, spotted Eastern silks, wonderful foulards, and other fabrics, suitable for gracing young shoulders." From which to the full-figure illustration. Here, mcro than in the first example, we sec whit may be done to achieve much out of little. that pretty waistcoat panel a way, and what remains? Simply a plain frock which would he too utterly so to justify picturing. Tt is this one feature that redeems ft, and hall-marks it as an up-to-date selection good enough for anyone. The girdle, too, is a feature of a kind, on account of its depth and the fact that it is in three closely-set folds. The new millinery :s, on the whole. cheap, and, comparatively speaking will, I think, be cheaper. I mention this with some emphasis because, while almost anyone with the least taste can trim a shape, it sometimes becomes a Question whether Ihe game is worth ths candle. For example, you can get a very proper sort of shape in a good straw trimmed with swathings of Oriental coloured ribbon for less than it

would cost you to make the same with everything fresh. Or, if you do not like that, 70U can get a straw of a quite new order with" little knots at intervals along each edge where It overlaps, with a mushroom brim, ar.d with a band which is a trail of ribbon and small flowers, with bow behind it; and you can get such a selection on sama terms. In fact, when it comes to millinery the only thing that will induce you to spend a lot of money on your selec-

ticm will be your possession of it, and the inclination. Anyone may be well-hatted just now on a small outlay. The tab is another etcetera which should be emphasised for home-dressmaking, or, indeed, the professional variety. It is such a little thing, and it does so much. The tab I nave in view is the one over the girdle or waist band, of which there are many examples. With the blouse-section panelled the best way is to bring the sides down ihis 'ashion, and finish the points off with a rassel. The effect of this little addition is marked. As though it were by the

touch of a magician's wand, the upper part of the frock is given depth permitting of the skirt being given the same through the depth of the girdle without a'dwarfed effect above it for the discount. The neck is ordinary, though still in keeping, and the sleeve is an evergreen, which remains so because it is so acceptable. The sleeveless jumper would seem to be an evolution of the sports coat. As a dress finish few will bo without them. They may be made as dressy as you please—in fact, with sn otherwise plain costume, they constitute the principal part of the toilet. Ostrich-fringe adorns many worn at garden fetes, race meetings, and other "dress functions." And now for the fourth detail and, in my opinion, if the full. figure is omitted, the best of all. The way the blouse section is brought down, or cut away —whichever you like- —is excellent. It is a charming idea, which is very much assisted by the buttons

and the harmonising effect of these -when front and extensions are considered together. As to the girdle, it is iust the thing, and touching- this and the other before it, all girdles, or whatever other name we desire to give them, when of this character, aro much improved with a little handwork. The simplest pattern for the home-worker will be the one that avoids scrolls, and this illustrates the fact. Dark skirts, except for_ morning wear, associated with blouses, will be the exception as the season becomes more pronounced. The light jrossamer style of fabrics which everywhere meet the eye will constitute entire costumes. Most of the tailor-mades will be of light-coloured tweeds or gabardines. Footwear, then, must of necessity be light in colour —tan, grey, or white —there are an endless variety, both in shoes and boots. Hosiery, of course, must bo in accordance. Silk or lisle in white, champagne, grey, or flesh tint. So these two items —-footwear and hosiery—will make a big inroad in dress allowances, especially when we read that the former are to cost an extra 10s a pair in the near future. Add to this the extra item of preparations for cleansing the boots of light colour —for, unlike black, they must be done after every time worn, —and several mere shillings must be added to the boot or shoe before it is worn out. We must try and equalise mat-

ters by wearing our dark skirt and blouse -with dark hose and black boots or shoes as often as opportunity offers—dull days, if any, as well as morning occasions, and so save our others. The small economies count.