GARDEN & ORCHARD.

Otago Witness, Issue 3397, 23 April 1919, Page 7

GARDEN & ORCHARD.

Bx D. Tahnocx. WORK FOR THE WEEK. THE GREENHOUSE AND NURSERY. Chrysanthemums will be coming on rapidly now, and all showing colour should be housed as soon as possible, after having treated them as already recommended to prevent mildew from spreading. There are usually more than the house will hold, end the extra ones can be sheltered u nde £ a verandah or in any structure which will keep the flowers from getting wet. it Biased in a shed before the buds open ley will have to bo carried out m the mornings and in again at nights. Though it will be necessary to employ more fire heat to maintain a reasonable temperature it is not advisable to heat up the houses too much, put on air whenever the outside temperature will admit, and keep the' atmosphere drier than formerly. , j The most suitable. orchid for a heated greenhouse is Cypripedium insigne (Lady; s Slipper); it will be growing now, and will soon be pushing up its flower sterns. Water carefully, and, if the pots are filled with roots, a little liquid manure once a week will help them. Cypripediums are of special merit because they flower during the winter when flowers are scarce, and they last such a long time either on the plants or when cut. Hippeastrums are ripening off now, and water should be stopped. Some growers recommend placing them on a dry, sunny shelf near the' glass, but we leave them plunged in the leafmould until it is" tune to topdress them or pot them up. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Continue to tidy up, keep the grass verges clipped and the surface sou stirred up with the scuffle hoe, cut over the herbaceou3 plants as they pass out of flower, and clear away all annuals as soon as they cease to be decorative. Continue to plant narcissi .both in borders and in the grass and make preparations for planting out the spring flowering plants. Now that the maintenance work is considerably reduced Sere will be time available for undertaking any alterations which have been planned. This is a suitable time to build a rock farden or to renovate the existing one. fefore commencing the building a considerable amount of the material should be collected and on the spot. The position of the rock garden is the first consideration, and a sunny bank well away from ; the rootst%f trees or strong growing shrubs is- desirable. Shere is no use placing alpine plants under te shade of trees where they will get the drip from them, and there is little wonder one so often sees a rockery under trees covered with ivy, periwinkle, or St. John's wort, all other plants refusing to grow. Before starting to build, carefully remove all weeds, conch grass, and eorrel, for once these running kinds get in among the stones they are very difficult to get out. If the surface soil is good, some of it can be removed and used when preparing the planting mixture, but as a rule it is only fit to mix With the stones used as the foundation. The kind of rock to use is quite a problem; often the only kind available is the bluestone which is used for crushing to make road metal, and it is the least satisfactory. The overburden or rotten rock which overlies the hard blue metal is very useful when large irregular boulders can bo obtained; it is fairly light, and if the hard surface is S laced on the outside there will be very ttlo weathering, and being _ so rough, and not too heavy, the building is easily carried out. When near a natural outcrop it fa often possible to obtain- a number of weathered boulders partly covered with lichens, and a few very large ones makes rock building very easy. After removing the surface vegetation and weeds, dig up the soil to a depth of two'feet or moro and jpix. it with smaller stones to ensure pood arainage, and as building proceeds a foundation of stones mixed with soil should be maintained so that there will be soil connection between the plants in tha pockets and tho soil below. When placing the rocks put

them with the most rugged and picturesque side outwards, bury at least one-third in the soil and see that the top slopes inwards so that the water will run into the plants when it rains instead of running away from them, as it would when the stones slope outwards, like the tiles on a roof. Fix them firmly so that you can climb on and over them in safety when planting and cleaning and also when examining some of the very small plants. By building the rock garden up in an irregular manner, here a precipice and thero a gentle slope, with large pockets in which some of the most showy kinds can be planted, conditions will be provided for all the different Ends, for though most of them like full exposure to sunshine a few prefer the shade, and among these are some choice kinds which one does not like to be without. After .completing the building the surplus soil can be removed from the pockets, a depth of at least six inches of the specially prepared soil being necessary for the growth of most alpines. The soil mixture should consist almost entirely of organio matter, such as peat or leafmould, and chips of stones, Which is the lend of material they thrive in, in their native haunts. It absorbs and holds the maximum amount of water, and at the same time provides good drainage and admits the maximum amount of air. The soil mixture we use is composed of old potting soil one part, good loam one part, leafmould one part, and sand half a part, and lime rubble, quarry chips, or Silver Stream gravel one part. This is thoroughly mixed and after being placed in the pockets is tramped or rammed firmly, care being taken to get it into all the cracks and crevices among the stones. When planting as far as possible give each kind a pocket to itself, the better flowering and more showy kinds being put into tho largest pockets, and the kinds which are more interesting than ornamental given a smaller space to occupy. Put in plenty of plants so that the surface soil may be covered up as soon ns possible, and plant firmly. After planting water well, and if the weather be dry shade for a few days by sticking a few green branches in' among them. Tho present is also a good time to renovate an old rock-garden and top-dress the plants. During tho summer the stronger-growing kinds are liable to extend beyond the space allotted to them and to crowd out their weaker brethren. Where there are several pockets of one kind there is no need to restrict each_ to its own pocket, they can join up forming a large patch of one colour. Again, we often have creeping kinds hanging over a precipice; these can bo left for it is often ■ an advantage to hide some of the rocks and some kinds thrive better sprawling over rocks than soil. Such kinds as heucheras and alpine asters have a tendency to grow up out of the soil; they require to be lifted, divided up, and replanted in new soil. Before commencing the topdressing tho rock garden should be weeded, all dead leaves removed, and any old flower stalks which were left to provide seed cut away. With a handfork stir up the surface soil and, if possible, remove a little of it, spread about an inch of the top-dressing soil, which will be the same mixture already described for filling the pockets. With the fingers, work it in among the spreading kinds. Make quite firm, and if at all dry water well to settle the soil in among the mossy and spreading kinds. As the alpine plant-* commence to grow as soon as the weather becomes cooler and more moist in autumn, it is better to apply the top-dressing then than to wait until spring, when growth is well under way and the flower stems are beginning to develop. Some kinds, such as encrusted saxifrages and androsaces are better when top-dressed with stone chips in addition to a little soil. When the rock garden is small it should be planted with more choice alpines, but when extensive many of tho dwarf herbaceous plants and small shrubs which will grow in the borders but are seen to better advantage on the rock garden can bo used. Many plants which are too tender to grow in the beds and borders will thrive and flower on the rock garden; for, in addition, to being well drained a rock garden is also warmer than a border. Tho 6tones besides sheltering the plants from the cold cutting winds absorb sunheat during the day and radiate it at night, thereby preventing < damage by frost. Some of the choice lands are; Soldanella alpina,

Dianthus alpinus, and D. ncglectus, Androsaco sarmentosa, A. languinosa, and A. foliosa, Primula viscosa, Anemone apenina, A. puhatilla, A. fulgens, Gentiana verna, G. septemiida, Ramondia pyrenaica, Saxifraga pyramidalis, S. Longifolia, S. Red Admiral, Daphne cneorum, Loontopodium alphmm, and Arenaria Baloarica. In addition to the above the following are good plants for the rock garden, all thriving in full sun:—Alysaum saxatile and the var. citrinum, Anemone nemorosa, Arenaria montana, Arnica montana, Campanula Hosti, O. pusiUa, C. fragilis, C. muralis, Cheiranthua alpinus, C. Kewensis and O. allionii, Corydalia cheilanthifolius, Dianthus csesius, D. deltiodes, D. cruentus, D. Superbus, Aubretia Leichtlinii, A. Dr Mules and Fire King, Arabis olbida, PI., Draba alpina, Gentiana aoaulie, Gem montanum, Helianthemum vulgare, H. pilosum, Gypsophila repens and G. cerastoidee, Heuohere sanguinea, Iberis Gibraltarioa, I. sempervirens, Linum alpinum, Lithospermum prostratum, L. graminafoiium, myosotis dissitiflora, Narcissus bilbicodium, N. Minimus, N. minor, Papaver alpinum, Phlox subulata vars vivid, Polemonium humile, Primula Cockburniana, P. vertical iata, P. saxatilis, P. Forbesii, P. farinose, P. frondose, Plumbagi larpente. aizoon, S. Burseriana, S. hypnoides, S. umbrose, S. sarmentosa, Silene Schafta r.Thymus serpyllum, Tiarella cordifolia, Viola cornuta, and V. gracilis. Selection for shade: Adonis vernalis, Anemone hepatica, A. Robinsoniana, Cyclamen coum, C. hedereefohum, Dodocatheon media, Epimedium alpinum, Myosotis Ruth Fischer, Omphaloides, Orobus vernus. Saxifrago (mossy kinds), Tiarella cordifolia, Trillium grandiflorum. Selection of plants for a wall garden: Camapanula muralis, Alyssus sexatile, Arenaria montana ; A. balearica, Aubretia vars, Aribis albide 11. pi.. Dianthus caesius, D. deltoide3, Gypsophila repens, Linaria cymbalario, Saponaria ocymoides, Saxifraga umbrosa, Thymus serpyllum, Ranondia pyrenaica, Phlox subulata vars and several mesembryanthemums. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Continue to clear away spent crops, ana to dig and store potatoes, to earth up celery and leeks, and to thin out autumn sown crops. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. ,'J.B," Clinton.—Names of berry-bearing shrubs; Cotoneaster bullata, Berberis vulgaris (red fruited variety), Crataegus pyracantha, Euonymus europaeus, Berberis aristata. "TAIERI FRUITGROWERS' ASSOCIATION. The annual meeting of Taieri Fruitgrowers' Association was held at Outram on Saturday. There was a medium attendance of members. The following office-bearers were elected: —President, Mr Pinder; committee—Messrs W. T. Wright, A. Miller, R. Dowie; secretary, Mr A. M'Donald. Mr Thorp gave a good deal of information on various subjects. The balance sbset, which was adopted, snowed a credit balance of £5 2s. The annual report showed that tho year's transactions had amounted to £360 7s and the discounts to £22 113 7d. This last-named item showed the advantages of the association.