IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3397, 23 April 1919, Page 51

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES

By Mabgttzbitb.

The modes of the season are set. What is current for autumn is also more or less what will rulo in winter. Wo shall, as it were, drift across the thin dividing lino without quite knowing. The new modes are beautiful —never, indeed, were more so. Wo are in the era of tho straightish silhouette. Thus, narrow though the present skirt is, it will almost certainly become narrower with mid-winter. And as this will entail the " balance," it will also beccjrno a trifle longer. Welcome tho longer skjrfc in. any case, even though a mere concession, as from all accounts high boots are going to become high indeed, and that refers

to price. Another thing to emphasise is the growing demand' for two materials in the one garment. The straightish silhouette, the combination of two materials, and the prevalence of the panel tunic from an actual one to mere floating "vestments" —these are the notes to emphasise. Then as to millinery. The advices are of wide brims and high, draped crowns,, but with discretion whore united. No dosigner can quite overrule the natural law —■ a wide brim, a more or less low crown; a narrow brim, a more or less high one; and a wide brim with a narrow silhouette, even as a narrow one with an extended one. What really stamps the autumn millinery is the extraordinary use of ribbon, not only to trim, but to make, even though this be only partly so. Somn nf the prettiest models are certainly as much ribbon as anything else, and where it is not actually ribbon—■ well, 'it is silk that docs not grcaiJJy differ. These swathed crowns that are twisted up like the flame of a sculptured torch-are decidedly "attractive, and, in the majority of instances, very artistic. A pretty hat of the simple kind is sketched. The value of the drawing is in what it indicates in the way of shape. It is bell-like, and yet not so—a fairly high

crown and a generous brim. What can be done with a simple ribbon for ornamentation is shown. Half a dozen loops and the ends carried on to the brim serve for a smart effect if well made and tastefully arranged. When the last mail left England they had gone wild on dancing, and as a consequence dan/ye frocks. Apparently the dancing masters have been occupying their spare time inventing some new steps. The dance frocks I have seen are extremely beautiful, those I have read about bewilderingly so. An item from abroad that strikes me as peculiar is light dance frocks, as they should be, but black silk sto/ikings and black patent leather pumps. Somehow or other I do not think that furs will be worn this winter with the same freedom. I refer, of course, to new furs, and not to those that are drawn** from their safe keeping since last time. What will be much worn is fur as a , trimming, from mere bits to pieces of size. We can all remember when fur as a trimming first came in: it was a few years ago. will be used to trim necks and cuffs and to edge coats. More particularly it will be used to finish them off, and also tunics. Again, fur will be employed to extend coats, in that part of the garment will be made of it—coats of, says, three-quarter length, with a depth of fur to. finish of as much as a hand-length and longer. At first glance this addition is reminiscent of something associated with the economical household—the garment let out or added to with the young hopefuls, because of the way they have grown. But it is merely a passing fancy which familiarity will remove entirely. This is the kind of dress that reveals what's what at this juncture. Consider everything as it appears—a model combining two materials and then amplified by fur. _ The lines are the modish ones, as straight as it has been found possible to get them., and still preserve the semblance of, the figure. And the charm is in those vestment-liko tunjo panels, and when I say "vestment" it is because they remind one

of what is worn by our pastors, and also by those who are employed to uphold the dignity of the law. It is a decidedly attractive feature, and, of course, in full demand, and it serves for just what you see with fur, to allow of a neck outlined with it, and ends bordered in keeping. Finally, the cuff is treated in the same way, and it might be twice With more advantage. As previously remarked, a narrow silhouette, a broad brim, and so the hat—a winter hat, and trimmed with ribbon and fur combined.

We shall soon be following "my leader" in the craze for wool embroideries brushed to simulate a kind of fur. When the last mail left London and New York were orazy over this, and so, I suppose, was The embroidery is used to trim jumpers and blouses that will take it, and when

finished is gone over vith a special wire brush. The effect is quite unlike anything else, the design from this getting a shadowy effect which, if the wo"k is done properly, is really beautiful. But at the moment of writing a far more important thing is fringe fringe is in. evidence everywhere and in all relations. Returning to the full figure those ends might just as well have been fringed, and in making the dress it would be a toss-up whether it would not be preferred. Fringes are of all kinds. As a matter of fact it may be of the material. After all every material is warp and weft. All that is necessary to do Is remove one,or the other, and that provides a fringe. There is this advantage in malting a fringe oneself —it is bound to be different. Again, fringes are made of ribbon. The ribbon is narrow, and if the worker knows a thing or two may be knotted for an admirable effect. And, of course, the bought fringe is the perfect one, and such is obtainable everywhere in any length desired. Tunic panels are often greatly improved in this way. especially when the back is longer than the front. As a matter of fact, it generally is, as much longer, indeed, as- another depth of the fringe, so that from the" front the back shows now and again, through _ the motion of walking, below it. .Fringe is again an excellent trimming for collars shaped to admit of it, and, needless to say, can always ba used when trimming a hat. The craze for fringe is a revival from the days of the crinoline. You may be familiar with some picture of the period—fringed mantles, and even fringed parasols. The "mode" originated in Spain, and was given an impetus through a rather curious thing. The ruling Prince of Cashmere was under tribute of some kind, and every year sent Queen Victoria several magnificent shawls. The craze for shawls arose through this, and with* it a greater desire for fringe.

. The draped skirt is stili modish, and this serves to prove it. But —as part of the costume. I selected this because the draping is so very pretty. As a rule draping destroys narrow lines, in that it reduces them. Here it but emphasises that feature,

and at the same time provides a volume which some wearers would find an advantage. The rimulated coat-skirt increases the value of the design, though the drawing would have been improved by showing the other side. The wool difficulty abroad has been keen. It remains so. An oversea advice_ is that such wool as is in use is what is called "old wool." Thus, "any new material that is bought is either silk or cotton or a combination of both." And this was inwinterl The oversea note is useful —"Styles in general are slim, straight, and little trimming is seen. Materials, lines, and colour count in the dress, suit, or coat of to-day. Not only are two materials popular and fashionable, but many striking conditions are seen. Dresses favour the tight long skirt, plain waist,, round neck, and long .. sleeves. Some are panelled, while others sport tunics. and long sashes. Suits are trim, and both coats and skirts are longer than we have been seeing. Trimming seems to make itself conspicuous by its absence. We prefer the simple modish designs 'that do not hide their lines under weighty trimmings. Our coat may or may not have fur. Some of the smartest models disregard the popularity of fur. Browns, blues, dark greens, and soft tones are all materials with a noticeable absence of wool." These tabs are useful and _ adorn many plain frocks. The variety is infinite. _As the sketch shows, the length is turned into three, and the widest, central, brought over the belt for the lines to continue in the panel of the skirt. The others are carried under the belt, and tab in unison. There

is quite a monogram _ effect achieved—one of those little things in dress which easily does count for much in the general result. With the lines what they are, dresses that have nothing to gain from coat or tunic require breaking un a little in some "such form to relieve the suggestion of monotony. Respecting materials we are now being catered for from a much more extended field. It is not my place to discuss; only to mention the fact. America is sending heaps of things unthought of before; while Japan, from what I nave been reading, appears to be coming along with the speed of a whirlwind. Dame Fashion has many ministers to carry out her decrees.

" Mother needed not experience to be kind."—Stanus. It just came to her naturally. That's why there is always on the home-shelf a big bottle of Baxter's Lung Preserver ready for Tommy's lifcfcU 6neezes and sniffles— Nature's signs that a cold is approaching. And sneezes and sniffles are pretty frequent at this time of the year. The weather is so changeable that it behoves all mothers to have Baxter's handy. 2s od per large bottle. All chemists and stores.