IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3352, 12 June 1918, Page 51

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES By Margueiuth The hat just now is of considerable importance. It is the grand complement of the toilet. The anodes must bo observed as otherwise the toilet will be spoilt. As dresses are not designed to suit the hat, hats are designed to go with the dress. And yet the shapes are as varied as tall and low, wide and narrow, turned up and down, worn straight and aslant, of colour and of none one can make them. I have before me four hats which I shall describe in the. order of value, highest to lowest, though some observe tho contrary rule. Tho first is a navy straw with upturned brim, the UDpor edge being bordered with sand-shade erep© de chine, and tho crown is composed of folds of navy with an handsome ornament in front. The next is a black velvet with a brim in direct contrast, as it is of pink velvet, rolled at border, and raised slightly at back, a black ribbon surround completing, assisted by a very pretty ornament worked in beads. The next is another black velvet relieved with pale blue silk pipings, the narrow brim of dark grey taffeta being outlined with silk braid, and a finish to everything being provided with a flat oxidised ornament laid flat on the front edge of brim. And the fourth is yet another black velvet made with a rather peculiar crown, the brim h ving a slight lift at back with a rolled edge, and underlined in pale sa-xe blue, finish a maizo silk tinsel cord and knot. There is a good deal to be said in favour of the corded or p'ped finish in millinery. It has quite an "architectural" value, a rib-like relief to divide this from that, as for example, in the present model —a black

velvet hat with two wings and breast. Tho shape is one of an endless variety, and the crown is improved by the double cord, one lino marking off the crown itself and the other suggesting the edge of a band. And, of course, the brim, is edged in keeping. A hat must do much moro than suit 'tho costume. It must suit the wearer—her face, her complexion, her hair. It must, in fact, suit her facial contours and her colouring. Some hats which look the most ordinarv affairs over some faces arc fair dreams over others; and some of the finest, though suitable enough for some, are quite, out of place with a contrary mould of countenance. I repeat a hat should be studied from four sides, front, back, and left and right, and then all round, and always as though it were part of the head, or the head of it. Some of the most charming hats are the pull-ons- straight sailors with new high crowns, velour felts, corduroy Peter Pans, and, of course, the omnipresent tams. But tarns are not what tams were. Some of these 'tams are more properly hats, tams that are half hats, and, therefore, hats that are half tams. I cannot say too much in reoommendation of the knitted tams when of the best kind. They arc simply exquisite. And some are vastly improved with cord and tassel,, or cord and pom. for trimming all these etceteras are available for the asking. Woollen poms are no longer a novelty; but the feather one is. The black feather pom is in great demand. I always hold that even as the hat is the complement of the dress, so the boot or

shoe is the complement of tho hat. The two together are, as it were, the brackets that enclose the words. Was footwear ever so beautiful a 3 now? I think not, in that in addition to being eo elegant it ig so extremely chaste. I do not know if it is necessary to say much more on winter coats. We know what is going—tho loosely-cut, straight-line garments with deep self-belt effects, conspicuous collars and generous pockets and cuffs, which feature Cheviot serge, blanket

Cheviot, heavy-weight gabardine, and for the extreme fur cloihs of all conceivable kinds. What we may give our attention to here is the suit coat, even though tnis in cases gees so far as to serve lor tne other. 'liiese modish coats still make a good deal of tho pocket, but ever so much inoro of tho collar—in fact, not to be collared properly is not to be coated properly. And tur is the ideal trimming if it is flat and close, and not overdone. The coat that is the suit coat must conform to modish lines. And, touching the trend, we see on the horizon the m.d-season coat, and behind it the spring; and tiie coat in mind is going to bo the most beautiful garment of the kind we have had yet. For example, wliat is your opinion of this—one of the newest of new coats, even though a bit anticipatory. It is, I avow, one of the most artistic creations that have come my ..'ay. Everything, of course, is in the draping of tho skirt part. The art conceals the art—to get that curtainy effect with the points either side of the front, the raised sidß. and tho repeat for the baok, or, as .- alternative, a scroll to a point in centre. This coat is a good one, leaving nothing to bo desired. In saying "anticipatory," I was influenced by tho collar. And yet the "V" with the flat collar is just right as the other kind. Collars are put on in these days—sometimes—as we put on gloves, as witness that with the hat already given. Apart from this, there is the fur adornment, and what a range! I note tho white hare tango stole finished with head and brush and silk-lined; the black hare ditto; tho Canadian fox tango with its markings—not, however, a very cheap luxury; the natural fitch tango, silk lined; the puma tango in brown or grey, prettily marked and silk-lined; tho wallaby stole, with two heads, as though ono were not enough; and the squirrel necklet, with three drops at front. Furs for the neck are often furs for tho neok and wrists together. We have collars and cuffs ready to attach to coat or costume —black wallaby, natural rabbit, and other kinds, —and > all within the reach of the slender purse.

But skirts may be taken as a line in themselves —a walking one in grey tweed with gathered back and belt; a mixed grey tweed with straps and buttons at side; a tailor-made sports in grey twill cloth, stripes in wodgwood, strappings, and buttons; and a navy serge gathered into waist at back, side pockets, and belt. The skirt, when treated as a separate implies a blouse. Is there anything to be said that is fresh? Tho blouses are all distinguished by their collars, and sometimes, in addition, sleeves—stripes in great evidence, whether in woollens or not. This is a very pretty sailor, gutter brim, ribbed crown over upright band, tho brim edged with fur. I may say that all sailors of this type are derived from the French—

actually the French sailor's hat, navy, of course. And if it were absolutely true to the inspiration it would bo finished with a pompom, as indeed it may be with every advantage. But—it must be small, and lie as flat as possible. I referred to chamois leather as a trimming when the season was young. And I am reminded of this because of what another has- said on this subject in these terms: " A friend in England, who often gives me useful dress hints, tells me that she had just trimmed her last winter's coat and skirt with bands of chamois leather, or, rather, the coat of the costume. It is a rough tweed, and she tells me that the collar is composed of the leather, but not the revers. and she has put a band round tho % sleeve to form a little cuff, and has put two patches over the slit pockets. With it she wears a brown velvet Tam-o'-Shantcr, and this has two narrow strips of the leather encircling the head-band. I should think that tho effect would be good, and it has the great advantage that it can be easily managed by an amateur. The same idea might be carried out in narrow fur or velvet. A green cloth costume would look well with tho leather. Wash-leather gloves should be worn to complete the effect.

Tlie present is the time for bringing back numbers to life again. Tho future will not .bo so favourable. The coming modes will sneak of trimness, line, and originality. Here is an example on the left —a dress in pleats, with self-belt effect,

exact collar, and close pockets. And hero on tho right, in panel, is the American military shoulder strap which, when the last mail left there, was being much worn, in conjunction with an ordinary belt of the samo character. But this little etcetera presupposes a military suit, and next week I shall show you ono of acceptable character.