IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3330, 9 January 1918, Page 50

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES

By MAncuEitiTH.

Tho New Year is a time for reflection. Where are we? In drees and some other things nearer our ancestors than in anything-. Tho dawn of the new year causes me to say that the only safe prophecy is that, economy demanding, we must dress with increased care. It is a case of cooperating with the draper, who on his side must sec to it that he studies the times. The modes are all planned with a view to making ends meet. This is the time when everyone looks for bargains. As said before, the value of a bargain at the end of a season lies in tho extent of the life before it for the next. This is of less concern to-day for tho all-sufficient reason that tho changes will bo slight to start with, and gradual where destined to lead to anything worth mentioning. The straight* ish lines will continue to be observed, and the best of the present features that do so much to hall-mark attire will be carried on with and without variations. This applies very much to pockets, as I see by tho catalogues from oversea that this pretty feature will last for months. The great change will be the arbitrary one.—in weights. For tho rest, what is modish now, conditionally that it is the simple kind, will bo more or less so in autumn, and that, of course, is always the herald of winter. ■ Starting with millinery, this is what is dated —a very pretty confection just now, but with a summer life. Large brims are quite the order of the day, and once wo get

into anything savouring of the picture there is art to make the brim as attractive as possible. This pleasing summer hat is a beautiful creation, and the very thing for a light summer frock. There are. others. Imagine a hat with a white fancy straw crown and a dainty narrow floral ribbon band with ornament; the brim of white tulle wired, and with a touch of ribbon to finish. Or a more practical hat in black' tagel straw with underbrim of fitted pink tulle, _ edge bound with floral ribbon, upper brim with a bordering of crinoline laco and trimmed with a trail of French flowers and narrow floral ribbon. Or a hat with a satin strap crown and brim of aerophane wreathed in bebe roses and finished with a ribbon to match. Or a hat in fine tagel straw, the crown with the new ecout top —a sand and pink combination, the brim with a slight droop in sand shade with lines of pink at edge, and flat straw ornament in front for the finish. But there are so many hats, and coming, in a procession as hats for occasions are the usual panamas, pique hats, lingerie hats, and other kinds. And as something claiming attention, a white pan-dan straw hat with a wide, shady brim rolled at edge, underbrim of black, with band and fancy bow trimming. The coat and skirt are par excellence the choice. I am always chiefly concerned with the contour—and then the general one. The coat must be free and easy—anyhow, in effect—and of the right length, to the finger-tips with the arm down, or a little less. A coat too long is slovenly; one too short will give a shrunken appearance. This is especially so with skirts what they are; albeit let me say that a skirt, too, must be of the right length. If too long, dowdiness is inevitable; if too short —well, anathema. The plain coat as regards pattern over the cretonne skirt is a tremendous favourite; and yet commend me to the patternlcss material, with what concession you like for the minor facings, as to provide an edging to tho rovers, to improve the nockcts, to band the cuff, and, finally, to provide a flounce lino on the skirt. A trood deaUdcpcnds upon the choice of button. There is nothing like the self one, except in the case of just such an etcetera touch as I have mentioned, when a button go covered is a decided attraction. Whatever the decorative material, I adhere to the belief that it should also be repeated in tho hat trimming. As in this case. Hero you have just what I mean by the patternless material relieved with a little decorative touch. It is a very pretty model, with everything as modified os possible. It shows just how long a coat should be, and aleo, but more emphatically, just how short. It shows balance, and is just about as perfect an example for this as I could have selected. _ Though only minor features, you will like tho way the coat is gathered and the position of tho

bolt: and finally that smart little touch—the tie.

A handsome satin charmeuse -coat frock in mole has these features—a circular collar,

with overlay of 'white crejs-e do chine, ornamental cord-bands in front, neat stitchings, and other touches; "skirt in pleats front and back, finished with belt at waist. A chiffon taffeta coat-frock is made with fine wide collar stitched in ornamental design, georgetto semi-transparent sleeves, pleats on hips, held in place by panier straps stitched in fancy effects. A navy chiffon taffeta gown is designed with embroidered colours on circular yoke, plain self-bodice and parier skirt carried out in mauve flower des'ign on navy ground. A charming gown in mole grey has a V-shaped front, _ ivory georgette overlay sailor collar, embroidered bodice front, skirt trimmed with velvet. _ A pretty coat-frock, black ground, white line stripce, is designed with a large collar and like pockets and cuffs, all very beautifully decorated with buttons. These are thumbnail notes of model gowns; but a word —they are not low-priced selections. The little etcetras of dress cost but little, but go a long way. They include 'the most delightful organdie muslin collars with square front and shaped edges' 1 , net sailor collars bordered with pink or eky crope de chine, organdie muslin roll collars prettily embroidered with scalloped edges, and so forth. They include 'hat scarves/ large enough to drape the largest, in' various shades, with fringed ends in_ white, and so forth again. They also include collar and cuff sets in pique, some with sailor backs, and others with pointed, some scalloped and o'thers hemstitched, and so forth once more. And. above all, they include the most beaut : ful girdle scarves, plain, striped, and checked —without some such addition many a coat and dress lack completeness. This is of the present, and yet a peep ahead. As frequently eaid, I make many selections in the picture because of a single feature. It sometimes suggests an infinite variety of adaptations. The feature here is the pocket. It is just one of those original touches that arrest

the eye and inspire admiration. Tiie clover way the piece is carried down from the bodice is delightful. Among other things it does is to give the front a waistcoast effect, which the designer has made the most of. I have an idea that the lines of the dress as a whole could be improved, but not of the pocket The square collar is in again, and likely to become a feature. It is singly the opening, bordered as regularly as possible, the border being embroidered. There is a good deal to be said of the square collar. Ono thing- is_ related to the classical. Take out a coin giving Queen Vic-

toria's head and note tho contour of the neck. There arc two rules in sculpture—to end tho "bust" with a curved line, giving what wo may call a round neck, and to carry it down to a equaro front. For tho latter you must go into an art gallery, and note any Grecian bust, face on. Tho contour .of 'tho neck is carried down with the least. extension, and then at a fair depth ruled across. The square neck in dress cut on this principle always suggests to tho art student just _ such a model. And to him or her then, if to no ono else, the wearer presents a classical effect, obtainable, in this detail, in no other way. Anything in tho way of a neck treatment gain 3 from tho association of what it hclns to frame —actually the face. Whether tho neck of a dress is round, pointed, or square, it adds to or takes from tho charm of the wearer. There are certain faces that arc improved by one style, marred by another and vice versa. I have taken 'three former sketches and mado a composite of themr It is to emphasise three things. First, there la neckwear—what it does to improve. But this, of course, is part of the dress en suito with that most charming cuff. The next is

what is framed in a circle. It is the hip frill, and one of the prettiest expressions of it. Ideal for evening, it is a featuro for any summer frock of the right material. Tho chevron in front may be omitted and perhaps with advantage. The third sketch illustrates the double strap-belt, a modish feature of rare value.

It is more than likely that in the Homeland dress will bo standardised, either officially or by tacit consent. The American business girl has solved the problem. How, wo do not exactly know, but one thing is certain: she is invariably < well and suitably dressed. 1 Tho wool suit, _as they call it, has been»brought to a pitch of perfection by the tailors who cater for women in America. In Britain (says a writer) the wool suit, alias coat and skirt, is an absolute necessity for three-quarters of the year. ■ We are at the parting of the ways. Girls are thrown into work more and more ' with each month_ that passes. The dress problem, if some kind of standardisation bo not adopted, threatens to become a matter of serious consideration for our business girls.