IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3280, 24 January 1917, Page 59

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES By Marguerite. Now is the fimo for picking up bargains ;in materials—lengths and remnants. With I styles so well illustrated and patterns of j die best to be had for a tr;ile, the sowing ! machine summons the economically inclined jto many a morning's work; or, if not mornings, then afternoon's. Keep in mind I mull ohiffon, Irish linen lawn, white sheer j linens, cotton gaberdines, and dress lines. I Keep in mind the beautiful zephyr shirtings, j ideal for blouses—white grounds with fancy ' stripes. And with all the zephyr crepes, | with either pcneil lines or cross-bar checks, which are esrjeeially suitable for | summer frocks. The crepes do chine speak | for themselves; likewise the floral voiles, 1 the organdie musliii3, and other beautiful : fabrics. " Remnant Day " should never be j missed by the economical. As I have i already said, modes have been fashioned ;to use them up to the best advantage. ! While a remnant is not always a bargain, : it is as a rule, when the mind's eye has : everything fixed, a gift. I am more than usually pleased with the present illustrations. They are what I may I call a cosmopolitan group. The first, a blouse, or rather that part of a costume, \ was designed in London; the full costume jin New York from a French model; the | second blouse, a real one. in the same city; 1 and the third, part of a costume, in Paris. i With respect to this the fad of the moment I is for the collar, in certain styles, to finish

j well off the neck. It entails suitable treat j merits elsewhere, as in the sleeve and in : this the sympathetic note is touched in that , very free armhole, with the pretty drape ' against belt. It is ono of the many charmI ing styles to be seen galore in any good j draper's—dainty feminine creations especially suited to the young. Half the skirts i can always bo described, and any that I would go with this may safely be left to the j imagination. In discussing midsummer modes an enter- | taining writer in ono of the capitals speaks : of simple party frocks for the very young j and their elder sisters. This extract will be I read with pleasure, the same being for I what wo call the "awkward age": "A delightful little frock which 1 noticed particuI larly possessed quite an air of its own, was [ fashioned of a pretty myosotis blue coloured , net, with varying widths of taffeta bands j on the skirt. It reminded ono of a party frock in our great-grandmothers' time, having quite an Old World air about it. A | daintily-trimmed fichu of the not decorated j the high-waisted bodice, long sleeves, with j short trillings falling over the hands. A I refreshingly simple littlo garment was made j in a white cotton voile, looking equally well | as in any of the more elaborate materials. j The little skirt was very deeply tucked, and I was beaded by rows of gathers. The tiny I bodice showed a wide sailor collar 'and a i crossover fichu of very soft and fine net | edged with kiltings of lace. The crux of I this pretty frock really was in this last- ! named decoration. It gave a line more than j adaptable to either slim or plump little i maidens." The same authority has something to say on smocking, such being in relation to child - I hood: " Smocking is much used as a dress | decoration. It proves most economical and j effective at the same time. A model deI signed especially for a schoolgirl to wear I at a breaking-up possessed a fresh and j sweet appearance. Fashioned of white net I mounted on white liberty silk, it showed I narrow insertions and the tiniest lace frills j and finish to the very full skirt; the edge ; of the sleeves and turndown collar boasted ! similar trimming. A Wedgwood bine bow finished the collar in the front; the same i toned ribbon was throated through broad ! beading at the waist, which was brought I high up. It was simplicity itself. The j little wearer carried it with pride and I dignity, giving it quite an air of marked 1 distinction. Such a little garment would ! be appropriate for any maid." I shall | supplement this. For childhood ! Smocking I is the rage of the hour for all. II is not ! an innovation. It was, in fact, introduced j about three years ago, but fell flat. Since i then it has been making way steadily. The ! advantage in smocking is that it is fairly I easily done, and always, if done properly, ; looJkS twice its value. And then these are , the clays of the Russian styles, and all such. i belonging as they do to what we call j peasant styles, lend themselves to this treatment. Smocking on white is sometimes j greatly improved by using coloured thread. i There are several patterns, which can be i provided by nine drapers out of 10; or, if I not, in the news agencies. i I love these cascading effects. They are I among the most approved of present styles. I The dress is reminiscent of the stately past, i when powder and patches were a feature, ■ and leisure a luxury which had not yet | been sacrificed. The blouse is beautiful—a j moat artistic crossover, with pretty inset ; and sleeves of a pronounced value. V>ut. of ■ course, all this is really necessarv in coidi bination with the skirt—an exquisite thing ■ with a petticoat simulation, which, if it is j not pronounced, may complete a twoi material and two-shade scheme. I seem to j sec something of the "Gainsborough" in i all this, and would be prepared to assort I it if only the petticoat were quilted. Peri haps, when winter comes, if the style is ? not then out, a half-quilted section may be , considered for a perfect revival. j 1 don't like anticipating autumn, and yet S now and a.crain little notes attract one. and it is difficult not to say a. word. I saw the I pictures of two most beautiful autumn ! gowns, but what- riveted my attention was the reference to leather trimming. Although it needs the picture to show it, j still there is enough in the quote to show what is on the horizon in this particular: "Quite one of the most unusual trimmings has taken rest, on a dove-grey gown of suodo oloth. The triangles aro of shining leather stitched in reds and purple. Even* fcho binding to the chiffon sleeve is of leather, and the upstart little collar adds

its vote that leather is certainly the trimming of the autumn." Though not much to look at in the picture, this is just the kind of blouse that you want to commit to memorv. Already in stylo it is one of the coming modes,

and it is proclaimed as a war one_. Thus the shield-like front is made as military as possible through the buttons; but the collar is hall-marked by the name of some-

one who has been revived through a desiro to compare the present Prime Minister of Great Britain. It is called Oliver Cromwell, and, of course, if only, it were divided, with a cord and tassel would bo quite true to the original. For the Puritan soldiers all woro these collars both in ordinary attire and over their "mail." Once more I hazard an autumn note, simply because it has boon so much discussed already—tbo "coat frock." Hero is the description of two which made their appearance in London at the end of October: —"One is in fine coating, with the front edges and the pockets outlined with gold braid It has a military finish, dull gold empire clasps, and the bodice is lined with merv silk. This version is in the three most fashionable shades of the seasonnavy, nigger, and bottle-green. Its collar, fastening high at the throat, is one of the smartest things imaginable. In similar fabric, fine coating, is the second. It has a small vest of satin, which buttons closely down the front, and over the vest the frock is arranged with the new floss embroidery in a braid effect, which is very beautiful. The pockets are made to bulge out at the sides in a picturesque neglige effect, edged with floss silk stitchery. The skirt, in a circular shape, is wide and short, and the very severe sleeves are moulded to the arms, with just a line or < two of plain machinestitching at the wrists. The coat frock is suitable, for any outdoor wear, also for theatre, and it gives .good service as a dinner gown, in addition to being just the thing for the busy worker." With the desi ription are the illustrations—simply those which show that the frock is a coat and the coat a frock, with much made of pockets. Make the most of summer frocking. The merging this time will not be so gradual as formerly, but rather one with a jolt. The straight silhouette, with fairly full skirt, but not. too much so, is what has been approved in London. And let me tell you that military touches will rule. Designers have tried to emphasise what we call ".the solidarity of the Allies" by borrowing from all, and frequently combining. Russian fancies will lead; but, because she was last in, Rumania, it seems, has been responsible for a wealth of items, more particularly in the placing of embroideries and their extent. If we may say that there is always an air of femininity in the robe when worn by a man, as in state robes, wo may also say that there will be a certain air of masculinity in the swir.K of the

coming modes for us. A tremendous lot will be made of military sashes, and, because the waist will be so loose otherwise, they will bo seen to unusual advantage. Isow, this littlo sketch is part of a design by a master hand. It speaks for itself so far as it goes; and, as for the skirt, I must ask you to follow a brief description. Thus, first of ail, cany down that

I sic]'' to foot, mid then break it midway for a hand with the stripe in horizontal line, say. twice tho width of the girdle. And then for tho panel front, carry this down to the front, and you will have things complete. liut observe that flower with leaves. b\>v the complement a repeat is found in ) the side of the skirt oithci above or below l tho hand. j The stage still sets some of the coming modes. Running ov< r some English files, I paused at a reference 'to a famoua Australian actress. She is appearing in Lonl don in some play or other, and tin's was the eiific's. reference to sonic of her drosses: " She wca.'i a series of pretty house gown?, ona of the daintiest being in silver and rose-petal pink, with a military sa>h of blue velvet edged with silver. A cape en suite h \ery becoming, and a capelet of laco, hung from the shoulders by means of a straight strap of ermine, is extremely graceful. Tins is changed for a classicgewn of blue velvet shot witli silver, and adorned with grey fox. It has wide sleeve* bordered with the beautiful fur, and a long, pointed train and ropes of pearls complete it. Another dress similar in style is in buttercup ninon adorned with fur."