IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3265, 11 October 1916, Page 54

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES

By Marguerite.

Tho British Government l.as issued ar appeal to the women of the Parent Isle: to choose certain fabrics rather than others

and then to prefer the simpler modes. The importance or buying cotton in preference lo woollens and linens is emphasised. Cotton erepon does not require ironing, and can be easily managed at home, and also has tho Government blessing.

Cotton voiles are popular, and crash has also had a big voguo in smocks, in which it is really quite becoming'. Smocks, by the way, brought in tho "back to the land" craze, are halving a vogue for home wear as saving one's frock* in tho morning, and also aro being used as a design for sports coats. Many prefer the sports coat, which is a coat, esteeming the fancy for tho short smock a passing one, though it saves a good deal of wear and tear on blouses. Taffetas is not expensive, wear for afternoon gowns, and .-mart women are buying white taffetas in preference to white cloth, as it does nor, require to be cleaned so often. Dust, as everybody knows, does not got into silk, unless, perhaps, grog-grain, and it can be shaked off it 3 shiny surface quite easily. Dry-cleaning is not particularly good just now, and is very expensive; so anything that saves even a little is all to tho advantage of tho economist.

I am presenting to-day, with my usual full length picture, three hats. They have been gathered from different quarters, partly

because they match as .to " volume " and parllv because they illustrate three distinct styles in the large or semi-large shape—-turned-up brim, flat, and down. This is the new roll-brim sailor, and is extremely becoming to tho' young. It is fashioned of Lisere straw, with satin flange- on under and upper side of tho brim. A satin and gras-gram wing gives snap, and iridescent beads colour.

Society is saving tho best of its sports hats for mid-summer; but there aro a few that may appear any day. Ono of tho latter is "of dark blue very open straw lined with irdld-coloured Georjrcttc- cropo, the under brim finished with two narrow bands of gold-coloured straw. A band of grosgrain ribbon of the samo colour encircles tho crown, and at the right of the front is placed a garniture in straw, of a red and a yellow flower, set with green loaves. A floppy-brimmed hat of rich purple Angora cloth has a crown top of white satin embroidered in violet silk in a cob-web design. One-third of the brim is of tho white satin, embroidered in radiating lines, and the trimming is a large oval caboehon in white and silver. Still another of the Angora hats is carried out in sulphur-yellow and white stripes, with a fold of white satin around tho crown-top. Tho brim is partly made of white satin, and a charming finish is the flat chenilo flower and leaves of grey and soft green. Surely tho styles wero never so charming. Conditionally that it is in reason and on a slender, girlish figure, what can exceed tho cpring frock with the flare and the short skirt, and those incidental (ouches that go to make the smart girl smarter still? Here

is such a frock, Tory clearly drawn, and telling its own story. It is a tunic stylo, but unusually pretty, and, as yon see, is embellished at small cost, even though not a little labour. A brightly-coloured sash is quite permissible, and does much to help through a sombre selection if Identified in some way with the trimming on the hat. This was tho law of Paris us decreed for spring, and flashed under sea to Now York: "Skirts are to ho full, but not flare, as last soil son. They are- low, boot-top length. Stouter or older women will wear them 2in or 3in longer. They are fulled into the waist-lino on thin women, and kid in

flat pleats on stout figures. Suit coats wi> : be much longer than last season. Mai:;. come to within 4in to 6in of the dress hem They are mostly belted with a wide o. narrow belt. While thoy conform in a wa> to the figure, they do not lit. The belts ai\ used to draw them in at the waist, high 01 low, as the figure seems to need. Many have hip seams. Collars are large, loose shawl or sailorshapcs, folded into carclcsu pleats. One-piece dresses are extremely simple, with pockets and pleated skir flounces. Afternoon dresses show over-skirt, which descend in points, pleated at th< sides so that they make cascade effects, anc; often faced with another colour. Tho bodice of these dre.ss.es are shaped not by seams but by folding in the fullness, and tinlower edgo i.s often piped and. left outside. Russian blouse-tops are another finish fo: daytime suits, embroidered with silk oj tinsel. Skirts are often five yards -ound. tho fullness in gathers or pleats. Haj;s ar large shapes and small. Large shapes hav low crowns. Small shapes have high, draped crowns. Largo shapes have brims that tun up rather than down. Tn colours, black is used with medium tones of colour facings. Dull purples, browns, taupes, garnet, or burgundy, dark blue with a medium blue aro tho daytime shades." Now, much of this or soma of it may be at variance. Wo must take things as they come. Dress news to one country is sometimes different from what it is to another, for tho sane reason. Thus we don't hear much of summer furs hero; but they do in the Norther; Hemisphere.

No\v for tho flat brim. ' This girlish and becorring Leghorn is of extra good quality. The wide, slightly drooping, flexible brim may rr.eaaure 16in in diameter, and is trimmed with sprays of rich green pond lily foliage. Tho crown has a band of messaiine ribbon

carried across brim and on the tinder brim,, and at the front is a cluster of exquisite rose-coloured pond lilies. The hat comes in natural Leghorn straw, with Copenhagen blue ribbon and roso flowers, or with black or roso ribbon with rose flowers. An item from London on tho coiffure is decidedly interesting, because of what it shows in relation to tho war. Why, even our tresses aro affected, and wo must braid them according to the limitations of tho hour. Tho simplo hair-dressings which aro in vogue at present make little demands on additional hair. They aro signs of tho times, and should bo realised as lsucli. Very few ornaments—a fow coloured pearl combs (really made from snail-shell, which resembles mother-of-pearl, and is very inexpensive) aro tho neatest addition to the new dressings. Somo of tho French hairdressers describe the most popular variety of the new dressings as the onion, owing to tho fact that when fixed if, resembles from the back a neat little onion surmounted by a lot of artlessly fluffy side hair.

What lota and lots of capos there are! Capes frivolous, Puritan, or even severe. Madame may have them on her coats, her frocks, her blouses. She has vowed to lovo them all. She- must have pockets, too, if sho would be "a la mode"—real bulgy, standing-out pockets meant for use as well as. for _ ornament. White cloth and whito silk aliko is lined this year with orange. The colour shows through with a delicious sunny effect, deeper than cream, softer than butter-colour. Even so is the caped whito blouse above lined. Black fishnet veils, many of tho bright-hued blouses. It is a big. open-meshed affair, that tones down without concealing its brother fabric. White

chiffon is sometimes used as an interlining to tono it down still further. Metallic ribbons, sewn botween plain ribbed silks, are keen favourites among the cooler " garments. A dull metal shade—some call it platinum, others gunmeta] —is easily winner in this class. Those amusing little wool figures to be seen on summer sports hats have invaded tho region of the blouse. A comic little golfing caddy worked on to tho ribbon has a follow stitched on to tho one-sided pocket of a golf suit. And now my third hat, which you may perchanoo esteem the prettiest. It is an adorable Leghorn with brim softly bent at

most becoming angles, and trimmed with whito pink satin or black velvet ribbon, and one largo pink rose posed gracefully at tho left side-front.

Tho blouse and skirt still ranks first favourite as a morning outfit at leaet, and from what one may judge will remain =;o indefinitely. A decado ago who ever heard of establishments for tho sale, of blouses only? Or a firm for tho making and sale of skirts only? But now such houses aro established in every capital of the Commonwealth as conclusive proof that tho blouse arid skirt is the most-sought-after combina tion of dress that was ever introduced. Designs in blouses aro endless—implicity the

noniing- note, both in make and material; '.ilher more elaborate for afternoon wear — •ilk, white or cream, predominating, and Ircssier still for evening; wear, the material loral silk, taffetas, or ninon; skirt of same Material. Even when matching skirt we 'till have the blouse, separate from ihc

skirt, unlined. The tight bodice, lined, has nude its appearance; but—and it is a very lecided but —it is not likely to be popular. Collars! Dainty embroidered muslins! '•.ever was the variety so great. The high

old-over and the upstanding: mitre or petal >ollar, commonly known as the " lily," xn'ng, perhaps, the newest. These arc en- ■ Tried at the throat with an inch-wide neck•ibbon tide in. a simple bow in front, in vhich you fasten your brooch. An allufficient finish for morning or afternoon as > rule.

!)o not. omit a black voile or crepe do -hino blouse among your summer purchases, Mid a white silk undej'blousc of semi-tight limensions to wear under it. Black rufflings )f lace or chiffon are obtainable for these, or you may quid the fril!in<r yourself. These black blouses are cool and eeonomi'al from the laundry point of view, and worn with a skirt of black Sicilian is just the thing.