IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3260, 6 September 1916, Page 53

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES

By Marguerite.

So fur as the British example is concerned, the later season will revive the Early Victorian so completely as to make us -wonder if that generation has not cometo life again. Tho fashionable girl will wear a bodice with a high waist and cavalier tabs. Theso. I may say, will be liko a Greek key—little squares cut out, leaving the rest in equal square tab 3. And then a ehawl collar, the least bit reminiscent of tho shawl itself. And a short skirt, with probably two tuck flounces, which, when the wind catches it, will balloon. But what a wealth of underskirt, when the decree is that the flounce of tho petticoat shall just show even in repose. Then the hat —a little silk crown with a roll brim rising at back, with posy, and worn so that it is "perched." And, finally, shoes of the daintiest, or boots that simulate them because of their silk tops; with, to crown all, an Early Victorian parasol, a mere nothing, shaped with a couple of frills and furbelows, will justify their title as never before in easy recollection. Some of tho skirts will be all frills—flounce over flounce from the waist, but the top ono broken in front and simulating a peplum, the bodice trim with petal collar, and sleeve, cither a "cattle-bell," or conforming to arm and then opening over back; or tho frills of the dress may be in flounces of Vandyke pattorn, with the frill to border, an additional note being a little bow on top of each point. Charming creations in taffeta and organdie will be enhanced with such flounces. The brace effect is another feature, but not broad ones. A skirt waist and skirt may still be a gown, the bodice spotted, the skirt dark, and the latter "rayed" at waist by being in a series of tucks, making an upward frill, with tho material forming a brace, and, again, a long cuff. The military helmet at tho front, the Bteol one designed to ward tho bullets off, is responsible for the helmet hat. I referred to this in my earlier general notes; but there is nothing like the illustration. This is one oi the best types, of silk, tho

brim bent in front to arch over the forehead, and the sides turned. The back will go down. Then a cord having marked off the brim, the material is deftly crossed and so gathered into a knot, which serves as the holder of a cluster of bow-ends. To complete, one little posy is set one end and another the other, just where the artist has drawn them. _ The sketch is a good one, and true to object. Incidentally, it include© the possible in the way of collars. It is a pretty negligent stylo that atones for the close line of the hats. Half the art in successful dressing lies in providing the balance Continuing on hats, the designers seem to have given all their attention to making the most of the least. First, we have the small hats —small as to width. They are all

high, either actually or through the trimming. There is one that is like the heau's Bat of the picture, when gentlemen woro knee breeches and brocaded coats. A hat that is like a pint measure reversed, with a little curl-curl brim. It will carry in front, on top, a generous bow —some loops hanging over tho hat and ono or two largo ones upright, with a bent end. And tho wearer will don a " nose-veil "—one that hangs down to that leve] like a curtain, and is as

transparent as nothing. Then hats will bo seen like little bags, or, say, development of a golf cap without the peak, such being of spotted silk, and drawn, as it were, to crown at back, getting higher and higher, there to finish as though gathered by tho hand and twisted into a bow and knot. Again, some hats will be drawn up till they resolve themselves into wings—all kinds of fancies possiblo to the artistic manipulator. Finally, there will bo tho masculine shape, tho modified topper sometimes set with material roses for ornament, and tho Welsh. And, again, thero will be any number of up-and-down hats banded off with ribbon lines finished with dainty little bows. From that wo come to striped hats—hats with low crowns and shaped brims. They are galore. The hat may bo a semi-coalscuttle, with brim arching over forehead and turned up at back, and a ribbon brought over crown, and resulting in a knot on brim with a sunray of ends. Then tho pouch crown _ with tho transparent brim, notnew, but quite in order, ribbon to divide with the usual bowends, and perhaps a few streamers. _ We como now to hats of real size, but all in the brim. Picturo ono of bent Panama style, biscuit-coloured, finished with a large laco bow and a rose. And then another in dark blue, straw and silk, tho crown a mass of ribbon loops.

Here is a most beautiful dress of the semi-tailored variety. It is well drawn, and as the block is well engraved it should print on dressmaker's lines. _ I have cut away the skirt one side for printing reasons —to get it in the column with something to spare. Now note the contour. From shoulder* to waist level lines are carried clown as straightly as possible—the concession to the figure is tho least. But from this point the flare is steady, first with the coat and then with the skirt. It is an

exceedingly chasto design by a London hand, and if well made is bound to please. You will study the volume of the hat—it is just right. A largo one would destroy tho ensemble. There arc great possibilities with this dress. I refer to _ the trimming, or rather braiding or stitching. The lines should be picked out. That tab-like extension on the coat may be a trifle, but the result is excellent. I come to blouses. This, season has brought them in in all their glory. And better than ever. And as the season advances they will get even better. The blouse has to be assisted. That is to say, if tho mode is for certain severe lines it does not get a chance. With the collars in vegue, the capo collar, and the shawl effects, dull indeed must be the designer who is unable to turn out something beautiful. The cape collar is an inspiration. I have before mo what would be a most ordinary blouse without. It is a simple somi-pouching affair with a little silk collar, and expanded big tie front, and sleeve like a shirt. But from collar and bib there is tho cape, and it goes over the shoulder just like an epaulette. Then there is another, a spotted variety, with bishop's sleeve and splayed cuff, and with a collar that "capes." over the shoulders in rippling stylo—a most charming idea. The best blouse of all is the one that admits of the inset front and collar. Several different, designs in these will turn it into as many different blouses. Tho collars are cxejuisito quito a feature of the hour, and they will continue as such right to tho end of summer. These collars arc always bes'c bought ready made. At the same time a littlo practice will enable anyone to turn out sets of more or less equal value. Wo must not allow the war to persuade us that there is any call to dowdiness. On tho con trary the demand is for whatever _ makes tho smart girl smarter still. _ There is quite enoush sorrow without adding to it with dowdy dress. Recall that coat I gave in sections, one more or less like an artist's, smock, with bolt coming through sido atraps and overfolding for bookmarker's ends in front. Theso" coats were being much worn in London over darker skirts. They were in crepe do chine in ivory, pink, rose du Barri, champagne, amethyst, purple, sky, saxe, reseda, mole, nigger, turquoise, lemon, grey, mauve, and peach. There were others—as one cut in golf style, cotton voile with rich Oriental design, bolt nnd collar of eclf; also one. cotton

vice versa; and no end l of such in lace, black, white, and ecru. A material in great favour for coats of the kind is crepe soleil, Buch being in black, champagne, yieux rose, saxe, and navy. The illustration I gave would cover the lot. There is another coat to emphasise, and it will be seen yet in great splendour—the coat that is practically a dress. Just imagine the flaring silhouette, but with straight lines—that is to say, with no conformation, ending, say, just below the _ kneelevel. Picture one in black moiro trimmed on edge with four separate rows of braid,

high petal collar, and turn-bark cuffs in double cross over section, with button. Then an exquisite coat on the same lines in black chiffon taffeta, very full "skirt," buttoning down front, and the edge scalloped with three flounce rows of frilling, such ornamenting tho cuffs, and the lining of the flaring collar being in keeping. But coats wilf> be seen that arc practically the entire

dress—bodice fairly fitted with cord belt, and the hem a/flounce from frill, such also giving the cuff, and the upstanding collar having a circular frill laid on the shoulders. Material black chiffon, taffeta, and effect superb. I return to blouses to mention one in picture form, a kind of handkerchief creation with a very pretty flounce effect in front. The shoulder is llaglan, and from the hemstitch the side-fronts hang in very charming stvlc, forming, as it were, a curtain, with flounce from hemstitch. Then the front is panelled in this way, and the collar in keeping, and finally a neat little cuff completes a favourite sleeve. It is necessary to take note of the laces, embroideries, veilings, tulles, and silk dress nets. There are net laces and insertions beautifully embroidered, and with needlerun effects in black, ivory, and ecru; silk net laces equally so; net Bouncings in exquisite designs, embroidered, and with needle-run effects in ecru and black; filet ground lacings and insertions, black, in widths, first 13in and 13in, and second _4in to 12inj black French laces with chantilly effects. Tin to 56in; guipure laces, ecru, silk dress nets, 60in, in many shades; waterproof tulles in many shades again;

beautiful eilk French veilings in, Bay, black, navy, brown, and purple; voilo flouncings, handsomely embroidered, various designs. Bay, whito and ecru, 45in; embroidered muslin flouncings. 45in ; and linen thread insertions, 7in to 9:n I jot such down more as a reminder than anything else They must not be forgotten. How to design the most economical hat possible ought to bo made the subject of a prize. What of this? It is a simple silk crown with wide and well-turned brim, with

a little scroll in front, and a s ; nglo rose set on side. Sometimes a hat of this character is more acceptable than another. Sometimes it suits, and that, after ail, is the best recommendation. Again a collar — ono of the popular shape in keeping.