IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3251, 5 July 1916, Page 68

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO DATE DRESS NOTES.

By Mahoueritb.

A good set of furs is always in fashion, whether from last year or the year before. j But real furs are very expensive, and not ' all of us can afford them except it be in I little accessories. What is more furs of • the finest are not always for street wear, j and as most of us are in economical posii tions we have to turn our admiring gaze on less. Well, there are plenty of inexpensive furs, whether it be the set or the item. For example, what is nicer than a two-strand squirrel stole finished with tails and a five-strand muff to match? ' Or, i again, what is more pleasing- than a marj mot stole dyed sable, finished with tails ; and a marmot muff to match, with heads | and tails? And what is more satisfactory j than a moleskin stole and mole muff, the I latter in pillow shape? A very acceptable j selection is a Russian bear stole, shaped at •' neck, and a similar muff in pillow shape, i dark brown, and very rich-looking. Or we j may pin our faith to a fitch stole, sable j dye, two-strand, with paws and tails, and | a stole of same similarly finished. From such Ave may descend to a foxalino stole, black, cape-shape, finished at back with i tails and a muff to match; and if we do not like black, take brown or white. Passing from sets one can be a little extravagant, and if it is a necklet choose a black Canadian fox, size, "as a rule, governing price. At the same time squirrel tics and necklets are delightful, such fastening with clasp or chain, and fitch is every bit as good. Returning to moleskin, I may say that it is a popular fancy this winter, and so the smart and effective necklets and cravats of such in the latest cross-over shapes invito special attention. A notice of furs would hardly bo complete that neglected the galaxy of stoles and muffs, necklets, etc., in caracul, scalette, and other varieties; and finally ostrich ruffles and boas in the newest styles in every conceivable shado of acceptable kind. Collars are exquisite, whether merely such or as related to little vestees. And the shapes, invariably high, turn over sharply or carelessly, or, again, just bend like the petal of a flower in the development. These collars are of silk, muslin, or organdie, and some of the military shapes make much of pleats, hem-stitching, ribbon, etc. Associated with all such wear are a j large variety of bows—silk and satin, plain, i black-and-white, and tartan. Many of the modish collars partake more ! or less of the lines of this. The drawing,

however. i>s not to illustrate a collar, but ouo of the smartest of smart little coatees,

in combination with skirt. The collar surmounts very pretty revers closing with a frog, and the vestee reduces the opening. The fronts draw in a little to the waistline, which is indicated as you see, and the extension extends tho least little bit. The sleeve is decidedly pretty, and if tho drawing were complete you would see a bishop's pufF to continue to waist, with trim little frill.

Here, for instance—and when I say hero I am generally looking at what I describe —is a very nice ready-made coating-serge coat and skirt, in navy; the first a fiveeighths sac, flared back, mannish collar and revsrs, wide belt; the second full circular. And here is another, an American type, tho coat with inverted . pleat fine and back, black satin Medici collar, wido belt, bound with silk braid; skirt fully ilared. And here, again, is a Cheviot serge in navy; the coat on American lines with side lapels, pan collar and rovers, wide bolt; skirt fully flared. And finally wo have a fine all-wool coating serge, tho coat a smart sac with military front, buttoning to neck and pockets; skirt fully flared. Then for something in a higher scale here is a sample costume; coat flared on hips, smart belted waist and peket. collar that can bo worn high or down; skirt fully flared, but plain; material gaberdine; shade a rich brown. The value of checks and plaids cannot bo over-emphasised. The illustration herewith shows what is possible in a combination, where such is used with more than usual freedom. It is a nloasing variation of

the tunic; but by having the yoke as you see, the costume gains in uniformity. I think you will like the general effect of this selection, and also approve the details. It is an admirable selection if well made. The modish felt huts are really delightful. They are seen in every conceivable shade —black, navy, grey, fawns, browns, emerald, pink, saxe, etc. A commendable selection is trimmed with a wide band of corded ribbon finished inside with leather head-lining. The modish velours hats deserve the same description. They aro also seen in every conceivable shade, but generally quiet. A .smart type in black has a soft crown and brim underlined with coloured silk; and a beautiful one has a corded band and is leather lined. Hats, as I have previously remarked, aro of any shape you please. As one does not select one's face to go with one's hat one must select one's hat to go with one's face. Nevertheless the chief run is on the close kind, either high or trimmed high. And in this connection ribbon is queen of the ceremonies. Striped ribbon has .always this advantage: it assists to mark the design of the bow. Practically the same may be said of tartan stripes. Not every time is the silhouette on pyramidal lines. The leading French designers have sought to popularise a hoop extension. Thus the dress comes out from the waist, flaring over the hip, and then drops more or less straight, like the curtain of a lampshade. These dresses want only "habit" to be much liked. A French model for afternoon consists of a black-and-white taffeta combined with black alone in this form. The skirt is a horizontal series of biack-and-white stripes of great breadth, and, observe, the white is really a check of black and white, the effect in contrast with the black stripe being to suggest grey. The sleeves are the same. The coat is of the black, and is sleeveless, deep V to wa : st where it is caught in with a black girdle, and with flowing sides with largo utility pockets. This coat has mannish -rovers. which, again, form the little reduced "V" collar of a vest, with row of handsome buttons. And the sleeve has a wide, loose, gauntlet cuff consisting of a band of thatsame satin topped with white. It is a conspicuous dress, but withal handsome. With respect to separate skirts, it is not an all-ruling law that the design should bo severe. Everything depends on the bloueo. And then, of course, a coat is so often donned in addition. An extremely nieo skirt is illustrated. It shows a shaped yoke in combination with a semi-cascading tunio pointed at sides. _ At the same time this is a pleasing selection for a costume, crossover blouse with small "V," and inset collar. I have just ticked the connection, and suggested in the touch a fur edging. And as that was in my mind when I fixed up the design, I havo bordered the tunio in keeping.

Koferrin;r specially to skirts, I may mention four that happen to attract me. One is an all-wool Cheviot serge fully flared, with hip-yoke, in navy. A second is a coating serge fully flared with tabs at waist. A third is a striped tweed with inverted fan of pleats at side from just such a yoke as I have shown in the illustration. The fourth is a Venetian cloth with shaped yoko and buttons with modified flare. The blouses of the moment do not give a writer much chance for an extended notice. The designs are novel mainly in regard to touches—a different shoulder yoke, a different collar, or something out of the way in

tabbing. But the extended front tab from below the belt is a decided novelty, asd also a very charming one; or this may come over the belt, and in any case complete with a little tassel. Blouses arc made of a plain material more often than not; hut stripes are ever fashionable, and so are dots. A blouso is often fashioned to make something of a front, in which connection the range is largo, and the best examples exquisite. The little sketch introduced is to show you a very pretty sleeve, and one of the new punch skirt pockets. They are from French models, and the latter might well

haYe been completed—a very beaut if uT costume. These straight .bell sleeves are in great vogue, and the pouch skirt pocket is one of the last words.

When the boudoir nightcap was added to the modern trousseau we were inclined to ridicule. But it has come to stay. Just as surely as pyjamas have taken the place of nightgowns' with many —slocping-out had something to do with this innovation.- Now wo are to have our grandmother's or greatgrandmother's dress-aprons revived. A pretty idea, too! Of black eilk and satin, moire, or flowered embossed silk, lined, corded, or piped all round, edged with lace or fringe, tied round the waist with cord and tassels. Usually a pocket for the handkerchief —sometimes two. Such aprons were costly, and were worn with the winter reception dress. In summer the aprons were of muslin, lace-edged, embroidered or "worked," as it .was generally termed in those days; ribbon tics for the waist and bows on the pocket or pockets. " Handmade " was tne order of the day then; but they were not such busy days. A little finishing off by hand now is all one has time for.-

And mentioning 'kerchiefs reminds me that coloured borders are the latest. Tho plain hem-stitched border in all shades, warranted to wash—soak for some time in cold water before rubbing to prevent "running" or fading—the goffered, vandyked. or scalloped _ edge, worked in washable silks, little sprigs and sprays all round or just in one corner. Initials or monogram in coloured silks, beautifully worked, are also a. feature, worked flat or in raised s-atin stitch. White silk handkerchiefs with just a line of colour marking the hem-stitching are dainty. Black-bordered linens are always obtainable, and are used with dark and black-and-white check toilets without any signification of mourning being attached to thorn —just because they accord. Tho black hair-lino outlining scallops and Vandykes, harmonising with collar and vestee'of organdie similarly treated, is to bo seen. Tiny black buttons fastening the vestce. To those who do not know tho secret of keeping -white silk its colour, and equal to new, _ I may say that a little methylated spirit added to the rinsing water give the desired effect. At a recent winter garden party I noted two distinctive costumes, of the coat and skirt' variety—"tailor-made" undoubtedly. One was a white—"creamy-white"—cloth, and with it was worn a black tipped-with-white boa of generous length, tho broadbrimmed hat being encircled with feather adornment to match. The other was a cream Cheviot sorgo, tho rib being diagonal and very pronounced, making it look vcr,y rich. Dark fox-fnr was chosen to edge the jaunty sue coat, and for (]vop collar and ciiffs. Black fur cap with high wired ribbon mount at back completed the ensemble. Both these costumes wore ideal, and convinced mo that fur should go with fur, feather with feather. Have cither a fur sot or a feather set —or both.

Blazer flannels in bright colour combinations are suitable blouse materials with coat and skirt—the former loose and open, displaying 1 the whole front of blouse. Muslin collars turning over the upstanding collar at back or narrow muslin frilling edging same. May also be carried down the front —gives a good finish. For those who prefer them the -velours flannelettes are in great variety, nil colours, all designs. Spots, stripes, and floral patterns Flannelette has made wonderful strides since ir was first introduced in plain cream unci bright pink (for underwear only) many years ago. Equally as popular as its woollen competitor, viyella, with the one difference —price. Wool, since the outbreak of the war, has been in the ascendant in this regard, and makes a flannelette blouse and one made of flannel two very different articles in more senses than one.