IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3249, 21 June 1916, Page 65

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES. By MAECiUEEITE. I return to fur trimmings. The newest fur trimming for coats that look like fur themselves is the real thing in a contrasting band, or to make the collar, cult's, and, if used, "flouncing." A lavish use is permissible in the right relation. Beaver fur is much used for motor clothes. The fur Russian hat is ideal. Tho Russian hat is improved sometimes by an oversowing top —one that falls over the side like a Tain. Plain and not so plain are both in order. The latter may carry a chou at side suggestive of a military ornament, and may, indeed, have this centred with a metallic motif. Fur is now and again associated with leather. Take a cloak of fur and heavy cloth, and a motor cap of fur and leather. Take again a fur set in which leather is combined, as a muff of fur. leather, and cloth. Picture a hat in helmet form of black velvet with velvet grapes. The velvet is gathered in lines with the shape. The fashionable helmet has been borrowed from tho trenches —just like a Russian shape, but peaked up in front, and with the sides curling a bit. Picture another hat like a wheat sheaf with which the wind has been taking liberties. It is a mass of negro gros grain silk knife pleats in upright form held in with a velvet swathe of saxe blue, this bein"; prettil.y knotted, over a narrow turned-down., undulating brim. Picture another of black velvet, boater-like crown as regards band depth, but with gathered top and undulating brim, and posy and ribbon bow. These gathered or drawn effects are much favoured, and with reason. Pass from velvet to silk, and what is not possible? One of tho prettiest hats I have seen for some time was secured by a friend last week. It was a high dome over a bell brim, and was simply a pinky red, though not too bright, beautifully drawn over the shape to a sun-burst on top with large button. And at the side there was a bowknot of same with two upstanding ears. I think I may say, however, that velvet in black and soft warm shades predominates, the trimmings consisting chiefly of ribbons, flowers, and posies, either much or little and not neither one nor the other. Millinery is a thing that will stand a little looking ahead. And so, though. I do not like anticipating. I have selected two forward models and brought them into line. Here is one, and we may say that it is of black velvet, or, if you like, the

brim of such and crown of silk or vice versa; and the crown, observe, is laid in folds, or I may say, layers. Probably an all-velvet will be better with that decidedly artistic trimming in silk to match—a veritable scatter of bow, loops, and ends, supported in the usual way. This hat is of London emanation, and if not too heavy in effect will have some "life." When it comes to the tailored suit, nothing is bettor than the reasonably short coat with side-pleated skirt. Here is one of fine coating serge. The coat has a mannish collar, but buttons low invisibly; narrow belt, and slightly flaring extension to deep hip length, the side fronts of latter being slashed in box-pleat form. Little pocket flaps arc imposed on the upper part, and two deep patch pockets decorate the lower, with flap and button. The skirt is plain savo for half a dozen pleats at side. To complete the upper part of the collar is a silk plaid—inset vestoo with petal collar of the iisual high kind with smart bow in front. And the plaid is again used to border the hem of the skirt. Plaid makes an ideal facing, and provides the opportunity for givinrx the suit that little touch of warmth that is half the battle. This is. a true winter girl in a true winter dress —velveteen with fur collar, fur to top pockets, and fur on skirt to edge. In the latter relation note the panel; the wind has caught it to oblige the artist to show that it is free, revealing an unsection with the fur. Cosy dressing is the keynote, and the silhouette of the moment permits it, both actually and in effect. The coat has more than the fur collar to recommend it. as note the fronts. A little silk is used to advantage—to make the cufTs, and, if you like, those fronts in addition. Plaid satin blouse sections go with allwool serge skirts, Thev are severe —an ordinary blouse stylo, with sweeping reversIn plain to complexion skirt, over vest with high collar open in front. And as the rovers are what is said, cuffs repeat—gauntlet. Tho skirt will bo qulto. plain, but with high-fitting waist, and line or

buttons front, waist to foot. Theso plaid satins combine with most excellent effect. Tho colours, of course, must harmonise; but the best thing about a plaid is that, next to its beauty, it allows a little license : you can always chooso one with a dash of warmth.

The hair is worn high or semi-high, and for the daytime a rather close arrangement is favoured. Those with the regular features brush their hair back straight from the forehead, but not many are able to adopt such a severe style. Most look better with the hair waved slightly, and drawn back very softly, exposing the lower part of tho car, and worn in a soft, loose knot, or in some variation of tho French twist. But more elaborate styles, arc essential for afternoon and evening functions. Much is made of side waves, twists, and even curls. The ears are covered or all but covered nine cases out of ton. A charming coiffure brings tho hair across the forehead like a great braid, with twists at tho side, for all the world like flat chignons, which cover tho cars. The little love-curl brought down in front of the ear is a charming detail to be observed in the young.

I come to the other hat. It is an economical choice, good enough now, and better later. At the same time it may be a rather expensive choice —it depends on material. Have it just now of velvet, with that fine bow of silk in tone; and, to give

tho warmth just referred to, centre this with a button in red and edge the brim in keeping. Like tho other, Jt was designed in London, and, being a hit in advance, has. been brought into line with a few slight touches. Serge and satin form an effective combination for an afternoon gown which, though simple, is decidedly charming in style. The waist closes at the side-front, and may open in a deep "V" or a chemisette of organdy with convertible collar may be worn. Tucks on the shoulders are stitched to yoke depth. Attached under a braided belt is tho threepiece gathered skirt, which falls in soft fulness below' a three-piece yoke. Tho perkiest- of pcplums finishes a smart waist, which tops a gathered net skirt, wide as fashion dictates, and banded for substantiality with satin to match the waist. A narrow front-buttoning vest, ending in nothing at the girdle, and fashioned of flesh-colour Ooorgetto crepe, gives a pretty note of contrast, and matches the high military collar that appeal's only at the back and sides. Tn the newest shaping are the long sleeves forming a point over tho hand. The front peplum is a continuation of the waist, but at the back the peplum is a separate section. The fulness required by present modes is displayed in the onepicco gathered skirt, which is banded in satin. . . . An afternoon gown to note

is a model of ivory-white taffeta trimmed with black satin. No lining- is used for waist, the back of which extends over the shoulders in front in yoke effect, below which the fronts may be gathered or shirred on cords. Turning back from the cross-over vest are long revere of satin that, at the shoulders, join the collar. Long sleeves are gathered to deep cuffs. The skirt is made with a three-piece foundation lengthened l by a gathered flounce, on which is mounted a one-piece gathered tunic. . . . The tendencv towards more

fitted effects is shown in a charming corsage of green and black check taffeta cut down in a deep "U" to show a frontbuttoning guimpo, finished with a largo round collar. The corsage ends at the waist-line, and the sleeves are sewn Into tho armholcs of the guimpo. Tho skirt is a straight gathered model. Princess effects are shown with the bodice resolving Itself in front into a panel, hanging freo and widening to hem of ekirt. Swathed bodice effects aro worn over tunic skirts with tho tunic rippling on the slant. And brace effects are seen to much greater advantage than formerly. T 6 illustrate this

last, the use of a collar of the kind shown serves a variety of purposes. One is to break the brace and also to harmonise the inner line. The drawing is of a costume AH you need do is continue the lines of the skirt to foot —front panel from yoke

and pleats. The design is good, up to date. and suitable to a variety of materials. .For evening cloaks the delicately flowered silks are popular. Or soft silks of pale shades are hand-embroidered in bright floral sprays on fronts, sleeves, and hem. Favoured shapes are tho kimono and surplice, both giving a graceful effect. Quite a new feature on evening coats is the button adornment. However flimsy the fabric, as, for instance, taffeta and chiffon, buttons are to bo seen assisting in the trimmings, the size of a shilling and larger. Moulds, mostly, covered with the silk employed for tho 'gown—many being hand-painted. Chiffon scarves, handpainted, reaching skirt-length are in keeping, also shorter spun-silk shoulder negligees with deep fringed ende provide effective accessories to evening' toilets. For a rather heavier evening coat, needing but the finishing touches of a few groups of buttons, the groups being set close together chiffon-velour is ideal. In all colours, too.

Tho high collar, especially that with the fold-over, has introduced the necktie. Dostinctive ribbons an inch or slightly wider are used —black-and-white checks, self colours, picot-edgod, colour-odjrod on white or black, and other novelties. Many are made-up into bow and ends with band attached, fastening at back of neck with press-button; others are tied in the usual way—bin it is something of an art_ to tie a bow properly. Ribbon velvet is also employed" for neckties. Tulle ruffs in substitution of the high collar attached are particularly dainty. They are pleated full and high at back, taper off to nothing in front, and are attached to velvet bands and tie-ends. All the delicate shades of colour are to bo noted, either of tulle or net—some of the latter edged with narrowest "Val. or a row or two of bebe ribbon. Worn with cream or white silk blouses they aro dressy—plain skirts and open coatees