IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3247, 7 June 1916, Page 68

IN FASHION'S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DIIES3 NOTES. By Maeodehitb. Fur and furs are, of course, luxuries, ami it is extremely difficult to touch such a subject without conveying the' impression of extravagance. Yet fur and furs are worn, and if wo do not notice what is so much in evidence wc shall be failing in our duty. Fur and furs are two different things. Fur is what we use to embellish our garments with, as trimmings and so forth; while furs are what we don—boas al.u llio liko, ai>oiea, aim, A "uoUllUlg »» not the wrong word, mutt's. Now you can be either extravagant or economical in this department —it quite depends on how your taste runs. At the same time fur and iurs, and especially furs themselves, demand certain things, one being occasion, and another the right position in relation to the selection. .Say what we may of the democracy of the times, we must consider just who we are and what we are, and everyone who is wise will. Well, nothing is surer than that all are catered for in the beautiful things in evidence in this way, and this means as regards both nature and price. A pleasant possibility for her who wants—or is rather compelled—to be economical is the coat of ponyskin cloth. This is a realistic and, incidentally, rain-resisting substitute for the actual fur, skunk or oppossum being generally used for its trimming, and being its worthy match., alike in effectiveness and economy. As regards fur coats, their very latest and most decorative development is a full length, full skirted affair of musquash, which shows the somewhat uncommon contrast of the grey squirrel in the high collar and the wide banding at the hem. A narrow belt of the soft grey fur is also introduced in front. A broadtail gives further proof of the new favour of this very smart length, which, in addition to being more protective, is also more becoming to the average figure than the full three-quarter. In this case the contrast fur for the trimming is a silky soft black fox, which forms a flounce above the hem, and also a curious and very pretty collar carried high up at the back and sides, and then curving sharply downward in front, where the broadtail is buttoned closely up to the throat. Lady Duff-Gordon had a lot to say about fur and furs in a recent advice. She wrote from Paris, and I gather from her description that while things may be bad enough they are not so bad as many of us imagine. It is apparent that neither Paris nor London has gone into sackcloth and ashes, La Mode dictating with all her former versatility and her votaries confornvng to the best of their ability. Thus: "A few words about headdress novelties and the use of fur for them. There is, for instance, a charming toque whose crown of fkitly-folded_ satin flowers—of pure white or delicate pink or faint mauve —can be allied to a bordering band of any such eoft flat fur as moleskin, seal musquash, or broadtail. A definite contrast of colour is then introduced by a picquct of tiny blossoms, whoso velvet petals will, perhaps, be in orange and yellow and purple, and the leaves of a green brilliance more usually associated with gems than foliage. It will be easy and effective to match any fur-trimmed or all-fur wrap with a toque, and ■ also _ with another, fashioned of black gros grain bordered all over with bright black satin baby ribbon, and then divided and decorated by a central band of skunk, which fastens low down against the forehead with a rather barbaric-looking jewelled ornament of hig 'sapphires.' connected by festooned fringes of tiny blue beads, and finished off at the back with a fringe of tiny naws. Then, those whose faces, being slightly fuller, require the _ frame and the relief of a brim, are in their turn provided with a little hat of black velvet, on which a wide encircling band of dull gold lace is narrowly edged with skunk fur, being more effectively combined, too, in the making of a central eocarde. " Still another of the most fashionable—and seasonable—looking creations, introducing the fur which now figures on all outer, and some inner garments, too, nowadays and nights, reverses this arrangement by dividing two bands of skunk with a central broidery of beads. Jet or grey pearls are both used with good effect, while cut steel is also permissible, quite a lot being used just now for such embroidered devices, and also for the making of quaint little tasselled ornaments. The unexpected appearance of two such shining and most piquantly placed tassels on a toque of pure ermine is, for example, quite sufficient to mark it out as one of the newest and smartest of models. But there is an even greater craze forgot. So you will find an applique of shining lace, shaped somewhat like a flower, out-spreading in the very centre of a closely-fitting toque of blaok panne, while from its own heart of gold there arises a wonderful black paradise plume, more obviously costly than one would expect to see this war time. While on the subject, I may say that the shawl has again become fashionable. They are made like ordinary plain lengths of material, their sole recommendation the fur itself, which the wearer herself adapts. There is nothing to it at all whatsoever, but about two and a-half yards long by a _ yard and a-quartcr wide of molespin, seaskin. or tailless ermine, lined with some contrasting short fur. It is just a blanket, but it is worn with the most delightful effect on a slim woman who knows how to manipulate such things." You may go wrong in selecting a low hat —anyhow if you want it to last; but you cannot if you consent to place yourself under a confection that serves like a high heel, to raise you some inches above your true measurement. Hats of the most stylish character, while emphatically expressive of height, will yet soar. A favourite shape is the little round hat with a raised fan of silk, this having a twist. The milliners give theso little round hats all kinds of names —one, I see, the " porkpie." But it is not a "pie" of any kind, but in reality the Montenegrin military hat which officers assume on certain special occasions. With them it is red with a black cloth facing almost the entire depth, such being a mourning band which the Montenegrins assumed on sustaining a terrible defeat at the hands of the Turks some centuries ago. ' A favourite hat is like a section of a stove-pipe, with belling brim and slightly extended top. In black velvet it is picked out on the edge of the brim, above this, and on the extension referred to with a rib of red, and set on the side of tb brim is a black feather with another curlin over it—this, of course, red to be in keeling. A charming hnt has a low conic, crown and guttering brim, vising at back-

hatter's plush in autumn brown, the brim faced with velvet in shade, a plume rising in front and a gay little ribbon passing over the brim at back with a bow crosswise. We read the line " New Hats" practically every week, and sometimes find ourselves bewildered in trying to decide when new becomes old. Well, one of the newest things is metallic braid on severe styles, the effect being exactly what the milliner, chooses to make it, and that generally speaking, is excellent. Hats are severe and decorative together, and will grow out of the one as they incline to the other. Flowers are seen a little, ribbons in plenty—and ribbon never had 6uch a chance in this relation. An enthusiast Gays: "As hats grow in height they grow in power to confer youth and grace." Well, we all like to look as youthful as possible, and also as graceful. Circular- and gathered .types of skirts continue to bo made quite short, but dresses with draperies may be finished at a length of 3in or 4in from the floor. Besides plain, circular, gored, flounced, draped, and ruffled skirts there are new tunic styles, and skirts with wide, plain panels., alternating with pleated, gathered, or ruffled sections. Pockets appear in novel forms on suits, coats, and skirts. They are shown as little slash pockets bound in contrasting colour, and, again, large end elaborate, often senving as an ornament, hand-em-broidered'or be.aded, and so placed as to bo conspicuous. If I reach out a little and endeavour to touch the hand of Ihe early future, uniting it with the hand of now, ; t is to speak of daring dashes of red and Copenhagen in the trimming, touches of gold embroidery, slotted scams, unique pockets, buttons altogether out of the ordinary. Flowing lines full of verve, hillowy ripples, and flares give many suits that youthful audacity which the small brother unhesitatingly calls " pep and ginger." They are more than bouffant —they are buoyant. Sport styles, the new Norfolk coats belted at the back or sides, full belts, jackets strictly military that somehow leave you in the doubt as 1o whether they are more cape or coat, all in lime. Skirts flare already, and will yet flare jauntily—the most youthful, saucy models that have been produced. With respect to materials, there are velours, checks, mannish serges, poplins. gaberdines, worsteds, shepherd checks, taffetas, and the trend is to just a little more brightness, but, observe, with every softness of effect. Nowadays the separate blouse is more shapely than it was in former seasons; but it still falls with loose, easy fullness. It is loose enough for comfort and snug' enough for shapeliness. The collar may be high or low; the sleeve in wrist-length is extremely stylish. Georgette crop.', chiffon net, eieno de chine, soft satin and faille are all splendid for separate waists. Cream and white are popular; likewise the new shades of yellow, rose, and peach. Browns and greys and black-and-white are also fashionable. A talented lady in London Bpeaks of the great favour shown materials that are seasonable only because La Mode says they may be worn. She says that tho fashionable have so convinced themselves that warmth is a matter of ''just believing you are '' ns to make the weight more -unimportant than ever. Tt was in midwinter too, whereas to read her remarks one would have thought that her friends were baskinc; in snrinsr. inet.-l.mtally, what do you think on little coats —evidently -" Coats in the new shade ■mcrald, chartreuse, prune, id rase; coats of navy and t flow in full-flaring lines,

coats that ripple from beneath belts and semi-belts; coats that have belted effects; coats with fair * jllars and cuffs; high collars or low collars." if2T Descriptions of balls, A-c, rreist be endorsed by either the Witness correspondent for the li3trict or by the secretary 01 the ball committee. The MS. of any correspondents who do not comply with this rule will be sent to the secretary for endorsement prior to appearing.—ELIZABETH. To ensure publication in the forthcoming issue letters should reach the "Witness office il possibl* on Saturday night, but on no account later than Monday night. WEDDING AT TUTUEA.O. A pretty wedding took place on Wednesday, May 31, at River Bend, the residence of" Mr and Mrs John Christie, when their daughter, Miss Helen Jane Christie, was married to Mr John A. M'Donald. The bride, who was given away by her father, wore a white China silk dress trimmed with, silk insertion; she also wore a beautiful hand-embroidered veil and wreaths, and carried a shower bouquet of white chrysanthemums, Solanun jasminoides and asparagus fern. Miss Isabel Christie, sister of the bride, attended as bridesmaid, and wore a dress of white embroidery; her bouquet was of pink and white chrysanthemums and asparagus fern. The bridegroom was attended by Mr E. Glover as best man. The ceremony was performed by the Eev. "\V. W. Brown, and Miss Bell presided at the piano. The guests were entertained in a large marquee, where the breakfast was served, there being over 80 present. The following toasts were honoured: —"The Bride and Bridegroom," proposed by Rev. W. W. Brown, the bridegroom responding; "The Bridesmaid," proposed by the bridegroom and responded to by Mr R, Glover; "The Christie Family," proposed by Mr W. Muir, jun., Mr J. Christie responding; and "The M'Donald Family," proposed by Mr C. Milne, Mr W. M'Donald replying. Mr and Mrs M'Donald left for their honeymoon by motor car, amid a storm of rice, to join the express at Gore. The bride wore a navy costume, and black hat with white ostrich feathers. The bride's present to the bridegroom was a greenstone and gold watchchain; and the bridegroom's to the bride a "old pendant set with pearls and amethysts, and to the bridesmaid a gold bangle. Some 40 young people celebrated the event in games and dancing in the evening. Role in the Wall. —Get twopennyworth of plaster of paris, mix it with vinegar, and' fill in the hole, smoothing quite Mush with the wall. Then paper it over. A thick paste of breadcrumbs pushed into the hole would do instead of the plaster. If a little ammonia is added to the water in which silver or glass ware is washed, it brightens it wonderfully. Ammonia is good for removing grease from dishes, too. Tea water is found an excellent cleanser for varnished woodwork. To obtain this pour water on used tea leaves, and strain through a cloth or muslin. The tea water removes the dirt quite easily.