IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3196, 16 June 1915, Page 71

IN FASHION’S REALM.

By Marguerite.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

While the severely-tailored suit is not quite a back number, it is discounted by that other which concedes something botu to severity and the lack of it. The result is the tailorctta, which is tailored enough to show its character, and is so fern insccl at the same time as to make it a very different suit to last winter’s. These panels of pleats are naturally associated with the skirt, which is fully displayed, or very nearly so. With a short coat or a three-quarter they are the hall mark of what is modish. The skirt that is nearly covered by the long coat is in .a different relation, but then this style is not strictly the tadorette as known., The long closed coat, which portrays the tunic, has advantages and dead vantages together. While right enough with the unadorned costume, what in the event of the supplementary coat? This lattei* is not assisted by 7 the other garment, and may indeed suffer by it. I am inclined to think that economy will often cause my friends to prefer a tailorettc with a little coat, so that the supplementary one performs its functions with no d sad vantage. And what exceedingly beautiful winter coats there are. Many of them would cover a multitude of sins if that was what they were designed for. As a matter of fact, these great coats —“great” being employed to distinguish them—are often nine-tenths of the turn-out of the wearers, as they are as elegantly fashioned as a costume, and the military touch being in such pronounced evidence, they are smartness brought to the acme.

Millinery standards for the winter are now fairly set. Popular favour is divided between the military and the ordinary, with the greater weight on the side of the former. But the military, hat of now is a groat improvement on the earliest offerings. It has become more feminised, and this is a groat recommendation. Here you sec a model that illustrates this rather tellingly. It is just military enough for the purpose,

and not a bit more.. The shape is a smart one, turned-up brim, deftly shaped, and pouched crown, with a group ot bows set m military cockade fashion, and a semimilitary mount • made up of several “feathers.” The height of this would be more than the sketch reveals, as you can see dor yourself. The millinery going is in one respect what it always is, —choice original models or copies thereof and clever local creations. I am not sure that the latter arc not to be preferred, as some of th© Continental models arc sometimes “overmuch,” if not regards shape, then as regards decorations. The designs feature feathers, lace ribbon, flowers, and everything else that comes, but what a degree of art in the utilisation! There arc black velours and beavers, in bowler and sailor shapes—delightful hats. Then new styles in velvets, Breton sailor, tricorne and Belgian. The chip and tage,'. hats in evidence make a formidable arrayblack, white, mole, purple, etc.. One’s millinery is ever an important consideration. Il must ba modish and it must suit. It is only stating a fact to say that the variety affords every opportunity for the most fastidious of every age, and by the latter is meant Eve’s daughters from their teens up to—well, a woman is as old as she looks, and then a trifle younger. Returning tc the military styles, i should like to say, by way of an incidental, that the “coming in” of Italy is bound to popularise the spray of feathers. The Italian military hat is dis ■ tinguishecl for this feature—a veritable

plume which, although worn by the soldier, looks as if it had boon annexed! from a milliner’s window. Among dress materials wo find a considerable display of winceys, self colours in pavy, pink, sky, indigo, brown, and nattier. Then stripes—white and blue, white and navy, and white and heliotrope. A beauty ful blouse cloth is called golf. It is in se.* colours, blue, navy, ruby, brown, stripes and checks, on dark grounds. Then another is called spartan, fancy stripes on dark grounds, and another bridge, fancy stripes on both dark and light grounds. A good selection is called Pomona—Pomona, I think, was the goddess of fruits. It is* seen in fancy stripes, on a variety of grounds, most of them dark. I must emphasise the clan tartans, which are exceedingly fashionable. There are all wools m all the accepted designs —Royal Stewart, Macduff. Forbes, Grant, Mackenzie, Goroon and Cameron. Then there are wool and cotton varieties with as wide a selection, cotton shepherd check, and mercerised tai tan stripe poplin. T never remember better materials than at present, whether it applies to quality or design. _ The winter cloths leave nothing to be desired in oitnoi particular. . . The combination of two materials is _ ar etrikingly in evidence as ever. Ihe design is a proof of what may be done ior a pronounced effect. The underblouso and skirt are of one, the overblousc and superb tunic of the other. The model is a choice one ol great adaptability, originating nand French. The sleeve and collar arrangement

is more than usually apt, the former in one and reasonably well fitting. All these open tunics reveal great style, especially on a slender figure of generous inches otherwise. Incidentally, a combination dress, if at all pronounced, needs everything in keeping—liat and boots.

A word may be given to underskirts. Black sateen is favoured, also checks in black and white. Then there are striped varieties, these sometimes being tartan. The other kinds feature purple, navy, grey, cerise, etc. Models with pleated frill arc frequently fancied, and again the colour variety is all that one can wish for. Selfstriped underskirts, with accordion-pleated frill, are in navy, cerise, grey, purple, and black. Then another style is the one with a box-pleated frill, and again a wide range of colours. Finally, an underskirt with a fancy accordion frill is selectable in a dozen different shades—navy, cerise, plum, black, grey, and heliotrope for a. few* bat in underskirts are in a class by themselves, fancy frill, pleated frill, and accordion Bleats, and once more in all the colours kely to appeal to those who are difficult to please equally with those who are not.

The dress silks just now are such as merit the highest praise. The colours are delightful, and the weights ideal. There are double width Oriental satins in an extraordinary range of shades, some good, and some better. Then wool black satins are ideal for evening coats, even as satin grenadines are for day dresses. There are, again, oharmeuses by new names, crepe satins, and exquisite crepe de chines, the colour range in all being exceedingly wide. I see an array also of unusually attractive navy silks —meteore, charmante, pametto. broche crepe de chine, silk grenade, and crepe serpentine. Silks never go out of fashion, and never will, summer and winter. It is only a question of weight, and they arc still the choice of the refined in taste.

A step takes mo to the counter whore they show the now velveteens—beautiful things, with a chiffon finish, lustrous, and in every conceivable shade that is worth leaving. There are plain velveteens of this quality in navy, cerise, maroon, various browns and greys, moss, reseda, violet, etc. Then better qualities with an even greater range, and better still that exceed this again. The corded velveteens are a most attractive group, a splendid choice for a rich looking garment, in various navies and browns, tan. purple, etc. If you can got the new khaki it is a stylish choice—a colour that is 50 times bettor than the first one of years ago. Blouse designs have to bo very original to be at all. This is because everything, practically speaking, has already been exploited. Still, hero is one that strikes a new note, whether as a separate or as part of costume. The basque is decidedly novel, the over-rever front breaking the pleats witli a very pretty panel, and this featuring two dangling buttons. The sleeve is attractive, the way it is fitted being as nice as anything I have seen. The cuff and pleated frill make together an elegant finish. This blouse as part of costume would be ideal with a tailored skirt designed to make something ■of these pleated panels to which I have

already referred. For an item, observe the rose on shoulder, and then cast your eye back to the two on the corsage lino of the

costume. These little floral touches arc very seasonable notes. And now, having said so much of materials,' I may as well continue in the same strain. The winter tweeds feature fancy weaves and stripped effects in drabs, brown, greys, navies, etc. A melton cloth is over a wise selection, as it gives such excellent wear. You can command it _in a dozen shades. Striped suitings, medium weights, commend themselves for coats and skirts. The stripes are about an inch apart on very attractive grounds. Then garbadino and whipcord are two fashioned materials, no matter what the colour, and cheviot serges are very stylish, such being a highclass choice. Corduroy again has its votaries, as lias basket cloth, and if the loom is French it is just as well to note that such may bo scarce and therefore more valuable. The same thing applies to French Venetian in many colours. Then Derby suiting makes an admirable costume; no matter what the shade. I note as extras many mixtures that suggest pepper and salt, generally good wearers. When it comes to choosing the cloth for your winter coat you want value. You can extend your vision to take in a wide variety of heavyweight tweeds, teddy hear, curl cloths, and other makes. / And so to fabrics for evening wear. Foam crepe catches my eye first glance a soft shimmering material, in purple, navy, saxc, mole, cream, tan, lime, royal cerise, grey, apricot, etc. The next step brings me to satinlaine, a very up-to-date thing with wool back. It has a very rich appearance, colours navy, cream, tangerine, flame, petrol, brown, tango, vieux rose, sky, and pink. The crystallines come next —a soft draping fabric,_ but very rich and lustrous. It is an admirable selection. As for the colours, they _ are everything, plus a little more, turquoise, salmon, and purple for three. Finally, there is a material named cascillis, which is a fine “draper.” The colours are what we should expect—it would take an inch of close type to give them all. Winter skirt designs are good for renovations. First there is the supremo one of the tunic. If the skirt that has seen its best days is free enough, it is an advantage to be able to out off the lower part and work another in. Sometimes the skirt is shabby at the sides. Then a “belt” with side panels brings things right again. _ Blit it occasionally happens that the skirt is shabby at the waist level and nowhere eke. Here, then, is the chance for the hip “tunic” —one with sloping fronts; one that simulates the lower part of a very long waistcoat; one that is in swathed girdle form, “shawled,” as it were, frorn back, around sides, and .drawn up a bit and crossed in front; and one that does this with the over end passed through a buckle for a flare at waist hip. Anyone, or nearly anyone, can renovate a skirt. After ah, it is chiefly replacing. All you want is a good design, and there are plenty that convey adaptable ideas. This is a natty as well as novel coat for certain types of skirts —nearly plain ones for preference, with or without some sympathetic touch. Tire garment is military because of the “frogs.” Otherwise it would

not merit any special description. But observe how fur is employed, for the collar, then to edge the closing, and finally for a band into which the sides are gathered the least little bit. It is an excellent design for many wearers, and it may be especially for the advanced teens. The ribbons one sees must surely have come out of the magician’s box. I refer to those for swathed belts, sashes, etc. There is ottoman with velvet, floral edges, in saxe, vieux rose, while, tango, and lime —an exquisite ribbon which could not be bettered. Of the others I select for mention a white moire ribbon with a striped border, very beautiful in the right relation.