IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3115, 26 November 1913, Page 65

IN FASHION’S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES By Maroukkitb. Lingerie embroideries are worth an article to themselves. Every summer brings in the lingerie sunshade. Embroidered types are always elegant. Sunshades, for instance, go with hats, the design in the one repeating on the other. Not all French hate are so elaborate as to frighten us with v:sions of the price. For example, tho pictured model might easily be trimmed by “anyone,” but it wants to be good, and that applies to both straw and mount. The original designer was Oarlier, a Parisian who evolves styles for every adaptation. We’ll take this aa le submitted it— a dove-grey etraw_ in harmony with tho frock. The crown carries a ribbon black if there is the touch on neck and •waist to conform, the bow half resting on the brim, with ends os shown or a little

longer. The mount is a rose branch in natural colour, pink for the bloom, bud above, and, as you will note, an extra rose lying at the base as though broken away.

These floral mounts are worn either front or back, sometimes at side, though tire moar modish position is the one shown. At pro 1 sent the epray is not f oo attenuated, th< sketch revealing an acceptable size. In going over the French summer hats I am' struck with the variety of shape, th* many sizes—l refer to brim—-and the latitude permitted the angle of mount. There are many very shady hats, brim .invariably with a frill, though seldom flounce, and thi* often extending over material and being semi-transparent. The brims are nearly'fiat, or slightly mushroom, while a few of tho X-ray type have a bell-like form, the transparency over the brim .being gathered.. Crowns are straw or silk covered, apd again we see a hedge-like surround of lace. Where height of trimming is aimed at it consists either of an osprey, a tuft on a stalk, a knotted silk aigrette, or a superb arrangement- of gossamer-like bow ends. Again, on hate which are of closer shape there may be an elaborately-wrought silk crown of considerable height. - Some small shapes appear of most artistic character, some worn straight, but most of them at an angle across the forehead. A pouched silk crown, with petal-tilted brim, has- a line feather mount set at back and standing out nearly horizontally. An exquisite hat peak* over the forehead, brim and‘.crown "being of the one slope, '.with a. band of huge pansies, gathered' into an up-and-down bow at aide 'to back. Another of white ■ straw is of modified bell-shape, brim curling, with elegant frill around crown, and wreath of small roses, at base of this, just showing above brim. There are plenty of hats of tulle, some of them savouring- of the mobcap as regards shape, ribbon binding, with the inevitable .osprey, or bow to finish; ; f Some of the things that are going are crope do chine unfined gowns, wjtli frilled neck, frilled open front, frilled turned-buck cuff, skirt the least bit draped- at foot, with buttons. Then lace-trimmed ivory voile dresses, bodice front with lace medallion and raised embroidery, inlet headings of imitation Maltese, sets of tucks, Then gowns, the skirt and upper bodice section of which is white crepe, a feature being ;tho combination effect of the lower bust and coatee basque in figured crepe. Tho above frocks are .economical types, and where not otherwise specified, develop in navy, saxe, grey, tan, blue, heliotrope, amethyst, and stripe, : as your experience willed eh, tify. With a few of the more valuable character wo have a cre.pe do chine coat and skirt, the former lined with Japanese silk; collar and cuffs in crepe de chine..in white contrast ; waist with front' and back biidkle ornaments, white and coat shade; coat has cut-away, fronts, and skirt is draped, and the developing colours are navy, brown, or black. Then an eponge crepe coat and skirt, former collarless and lined with Japanese silk; bodice and sleeve kimono style; fronts and cuffs finished with the popylar frill; basque spoon-shaped; loop-over ornaments ; i colours saxe, navy, or vieux rose. For one of midway character —that;is, between expensive and cheap—a filoselle cord coat and skirt;, former unlincd and collar and rovers in contrast —biscuit, for instance, with black or brown or blue in stripe. While you can spend a good deal of money on your summer finery, you can get wonderfully good value for a small outlay. Economical selections include pique coats aaid skirts in coloured stripe and Japanese silk ditto. The season putting the blouse on a pedestal, you naturally trunk of skirts by themselves. There are linens with pearl buttons and worked fronts, both Irish and French, none of which could be made aa cheaply as you can buy them. Speaking of lingerie dresses, you could hardly find a prettier design than the present. It seems to be, specially fitted for

embroidered cotton civ pe flouncing and banding. In addition to ihc regular lingerie fabrics suggestions include radium silk and foulard. Suppose you desire to make it yourself. The entire costume for medium size requires about flouncing 45 deep, the skirt, a straight pleated model, being one and five-eights wide. The selection shows the value of the moderate style. Why should we insist on the extreme when

so much satisfaction may bo derived with the compromise? To attempt to discriminate in colours is like picking and choosing in the rainbow. Nevertheless there arc some that seem to emphasise themselves. For example, tilleul, a shade of lime in its various stages of ripeness and the reverse. The green has a yellow tingo in some of its tones, and looks best in materials that su:t draping—to wit, ohaagneuse and poplin cloths. Mustard colour' is popular, as is tangerine. They suit entire costumes, and are excellent for facings, [a the latter case we should see a “repeat” in the feather fantasy of the hat. Tote do negro is a curious black brown, which does well enough in coats and skirts when lightened by Bulgarian colours. Its more favoured position is in millinery. Granite in a fine epenge cloth has an indistinct check, touching which checks and plaids are in favour for many smart effects, as a check skirt with a plain coat. Stripes are admirable for tailor-mades, the artistic maker finding the “lino” a considerable assistant in certain cuts. What of reversible shot whipcord? Then what of this?—a shot whipcord in grey and shrimp-pink, the latter constituting revers, cuffs, and pipings. As a generality. what a charming shade is apricot ! An apricot bow on hat against the fair hair of a young girl lends enchantment to the view. She will also wear an apricot tie of up-and-down character, and possibly a posy of same against the girdle. Apricot has its tinges. The one I refer to is like the ripe side of the fruit just when the sun has been affectionate enough to make it worth while picking. Apricot makes an admirable facing with nlain linen frocks. It gives life to a white, as, in my opinion, no other colour can. The lace coat is a strong summer note. For a choice commend me to the lace corselet, starting from high bust-lino and ending at short hip. It 'enhances everything, and in the right relation is exquisite. The problem of dressing for a restaurant lunch is a groat one in largo centres. It is solved with the three-piece frock, blouse top to skirt of ninon, and lace mounted on silk to tone with fabric of coat and skirt. Ribbons run under the transparency, and tie in little bows cither at front or side. The skirt is high, empire style, and blouse attached. Respecting the sleeve, it is either three-quarter or long, and if the latter may well point over the wrist. The etceteras of dross stamp the smart girl always. Her monogrammed glove catches the eye in the daytime; a silk instep hand, resulting in tiny bow on outer side of shoe, may feature her taste in details in the dance room. Dainty little touches give charm if properly disposed. Even a handbag may help to hall-mark the owner if it is of choice character. Never was there such a chance with the sash. Well selected, nnd. above all. properly worn, a sash will make the plainest dress nice. The swathed hip sash that really resolves into a yoke must be of figure-smoothness. Hero is where you may exploit the eheck or plaid with an otherwise plain dress. One side the sash will knot or appear to close under a rosette, the ends being short and flaring. In the etcetera that is made a feature there should he svmpathv. A sash must not conflict with other relieving touches. What a wealth of

opportunity there is in beaded designs! And—now is the time. Of all the blouses I have seen this season none commends itself to my taste as does this. You can have it as a separate or as part and parcel of afternoon gown or evening. With a graduated tunic skirt, with short train, it is ideal in the latter relation. This blouse was designed by a Frenchman, and launched in Paris in spring. It was seized upon for all kinds of expression as the best creation of the moment.

I have shaded it to emphasise its relation with the skirt, but you can reason it differently for a blouse pure and simple. The contrastive front in the way those bands are crossed have the effect of two leaves, one overlapping the other. The lovers’ knots are in beading, and the omnipresent frill is a most dainty thing, this rising in the usual way at neck, where a cord outlines the inset, with tiny bow and tassels. I must return to veils. Fashion decrees that such are to play a more than usually alluring part. You must not confound “'veil ” with “ scarf ” merely because of the size. The note is that veils of the filmiest texture shall be abnormally long where used for decorative purposes. I refer to elusive draping. With respect to ordinary veils, there are novelties in meshes as well as designs. The most fashionable are so exceedingly dainty as to be almost invisible, and merely soften the complexion. On these are seen bold patterns composed of chenille dots. Plain cracquele veils are favoured by many. The, chenille dotted veil is everywhere encountered. The chenille and the mesh are often of contrasting colours, especially when' the design is floral. I don’t know how it is, but I associate the veil with what is subtle. By an easy stage it gets me to summer perfumery. Now, everyone knows that certain colours or combinations of colour heighten or detract from individual beauty. Few know that the perfume should bo dictated by the same consideration. The brunette, particularly in early life, may use a sonuous flower extract. but never certain light odours. These —say “ new-mown hay ” —belong to the elderly. We rave of Greek styles; and let me say that both the Greeks and Romans in their hey-day knew the value of perfumes and discriminated as complexion decided. Everyone has a personal odour, natural and unescapablo. It is particularly marked with the very young and the very old. Any mother knows that when her baby has been bathed it emits a peculiar natural fragrance. It is the law of the entire animal kingdom, from the brutes of the field to man in his races. Perfumes should bo just perceptible, anything more being vulgar; and they must bo good. Not everyone favours the low collar. For those who don’t, here is a very dressy blouse of commendable design. It is a combination of silk and lace, the main features of which are the graceful front and the

elegant sloovo. Nothing could bo prettier than the way the lace-fronts are divided from tlie yoke, this being strongly marked, with buttons to decorate. The sleeve is a pretty fancy—a turn-back on the “ cap,” with buttons. The collar selection I leave to your discretion, as the design is open to several interpretations. I am not sure whether I should say that the four seasons are represented by four goddesses or two. I am inclined to favour the latter, and to say that even ns autumn “ grows up ’ and becomes winter, so does fair spring, from having a bud develop into a flower. We see her now, as lovely a creature as the gifted designers of Pans have been able to evolve. Not all the masters of art use paint brushes. The living picture is the one which portrays the triumph of the loom in the modes into which they are cut, and which they cmphasiee. It is an exquisite picture as regards contour, soft as a breeze of Zepherus birth, gay at times ns the garden is gay, fragrant as Nature - herself when you are in the vicinity of bees, which have discretion enough not to waste their time in unscentcd fields. It is, moreover, an inspiring picture, full of fairy-like touches, | and, if the simile will be permitted, femi- j nine to its “ finger-tips.” |