HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 3112, 5 November 1913, Page 12

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

By J Gebbik

HARDY AZALEAS. Hardy azaleas have now been flowering for some time, and a wonderfully fine display they make. The colours are so bright and taned that they appeal to everyone. In addition, the majority are deliciously fragrant, their perfume scenting the garden for a considerable distance. They can only bo grown successfully in places where lime is not prevalent in the soil to any great extent. They look well in groups or massed in large beds on the lawn. They are no new addition to the inhabitants of th ? garden, but have been popular plants for the past 30 or 40 years. Many more people arc now finding out their decorative qualities, and are introducing them into their gardens. The majority of kinds grown are hybrids. Continental growers were the first to devote considerable time to them, and were most successful in raising new varieties, and the whole group of hardy azaleas came to be known as Ghent hybrids, and by some this name is retained to the present day. Several English firms were little behind, and to some of these wo are indebted for many of the handsomest kinds. Several North American species, and one from the Caucasus, formed the basis for the early operations of the hybridist. China and Japan have given us A. sinensis, or A. mollis, as it is frequently called. This class has larger and more shapely flowers, and lack fragrance, but bloom earlier than the other kinds. These hardy azaleas, in addition to their beautiful flowers, have another asset in their foliage, which colours brilliantly in autumn. Although spoken of as azaleas, all these plants arc, styictly speaking, rhododendrons, azaleas not being a recognised genus. FEEDING PLANTS IN POTS. The roots of plants growing in pots ara confined to a small quantity of soil, which soon becomes exhausted, and the plants, though carefully watered and kept alive for years, will not make fine specimens or flower satisfactorily. To grow plants successfully and retain large plants in comparatively small pots, judicious feeding must be resorted to, and to the inexperienced cultivator a tew hints as to the genera! principles on which pot plants must ho fed may not be out of place. In the first place, every plant must have made a good number of roots before applying manure water or artificial stimulants, either in a dry or liquid form. The condition of the roots can easily be ascertained by turning the ball of soil out of the pot. If plenty of roots can be seen and are beginning to mat together, feeding will bo advisable and beneficial. If the plants have not had their final shift, ami the roots are plentiful, repotting must bo done in preference to feeding. When the roots have thoroughly taken possession of the soil after the final potting, then weak doses of liquid manure should bo given, and bo generally in strength until the full dose, as advised in the special instructions given with the concentrated manures, is reached. A change of manure is also beneficial. For instance, weak manure-water may bo given for several days; then clean water for two days. Follow with approved artificial manures for a week; then clear water. The soil must always be in a moist condition when manures arc applied. If dry, the weakest doses of manure are apt to cause injury. Artificial manures suitable for the different kinds of plants, with full directions for applying them, are obtainable from any of the seedsmen who deal in horticultural requisites. WALLFLOWERS. New is a good time to sow seeds of this fragrant soring flower. Those are often sown too late in November or December; but the wallflower requires a long season to develop into a sturdy, bushy plant that will stand the winter. Sometimes they arc injured by sharp frosts following much wet in winter. This is largely the result of sowing the seeds too late. Sow the seeds thinly in drills, and as soon as the plants are large enough prick them out in an jopen situation in rows Ift apart and 9in between the plants. Pinch off the t-ap-roots, as this induces them to form fibrous roots near the surface. A second transplanting, if space and time wore available, would well repay the trouble, ns extra sturdy plants will be produced, with abundance of fibrous roots that can be lifted, with the soil adhering to them, for planting out in May. Many shades of colour are now procurable, which come fairly true from seed. THE UMBRELLA PLANT.

This slightly fanciful name is applied to Cyperus alternifolius. The shape of its flowering umbels suggests the name, as they stand erect on long stems, and radiate in much the same manner as the wires of an umbrella. It is a good plant for the amateur, as it grows freely in a damp, shaded greenhouse, but is not injured bv a few weeks’ sojourn in the dwelling-house. It is increased by seeds, division, or the flowering tops can be used as cuttings. All or either of these methods can be carried out at this season. Division gives the quickest results, and may be practised to almost any extent. It is a plant that likes abundance of water. Instead of crocks, cover the drainage hole with a little welldecayed farmyard manure, and use rich soil

for filling the pot Always give water in abundance. RAISING PERENNIALS FROM SEED. A great many of our hardy perennials can easily be raised from seed, and the amateur with limited accommodation may raise a really good collection at a comparatively small cost. The natural time to sow seed ie jtist when it is ripe, as that- is not always possible, September, October, and November are excellent months for the purpose. Many perennials sown during these months will flower during autumn, and those ‘ which do not flower will be strong plants to endure the winter. Some varieties are best raised in the open ground, while with others it is an advantage to sow in a cold frame. _ A good plan to adopt for sowing outside is to mate a bed about 3ft wide. Let it be well dug, and the soil thoroughly broken up, and make the surface fine by raking. ". 6 shallow drills across the bed, in which scatter the seeds thinly and evenly, and cover to the depth of &in with fine soil. If the soil is dry, water with a fine rose. It is advisable to cover the bed with a piece of scrim as shade until germination takes place. When the seedlings arc largo enough to handle, transplant to nursery beds, allowing about 6in between the young plants. They may in this position until the autumn, when they §hould bo planted in their normanent quarters. To raise perennials in the cold frame it is advisable to sow in pots or boxes in a light, friable soil After filling the pots or boxes with soil give a thorough watering, and allow an hour or two to drain. - Distribute the seed evenly, and cover lightly with fine dry soil When the seedlings are fit to handle prick off into boxes, and keep them in the frame closely and shaded until they start into growth; then harden them off, and finally remove them from the frame, and when well rooted line out in nursery rows or plant in permanent quarters.

Messrs Reilly. Gill, and Co., Central Produce Mart (Limited), received the first consignment of strawberries on Oct. 30 from Alexandra, and these realised) the record price of 5s per pottle, and were purchased by Mr Macadam, of George street. An expert gardener told a Mastcrton Age representative recently that he did not think there would be Imlf-a-ton of stone fruit in the whole of the Masterton orchards this season. The frost of a week or two back worked havoc in the orchards.