HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 3111, 29 October 1913, Page 12

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Bt J. Gebbie.

PROPAGATING DAHLIAS. The dahlia is readily increased by seeds, cuttings, and dividing the roots. By seeds only with the view to. obtain new and better varieties; by cuttings to perpetuate in the greatest numbers good varieties already obtained, and also to have small roots or tubers convenient for sending to a distance ; by dividing the roots, to increase known sorts to a limited extent. The best and by far the most general mode of propagating the dahlia is by cuttings, and to obtain these the old roots are put in a state of growth early in the season, and the young shoots which spring from them, and which are produced in abundance, are used as cuttings. Some extensive growers place the old roots in a hot-bed frame or other convenient place, where there is a temperature of about 60deg or 65deg, or even more. The young shoots soon begin to appear, and when these are 2in or 3in in length they may be cut .off close to the old tuber, but not so as to injure its top or crown, because many more shoots will arise from it if required. The cuttings are prepared by cutting the shoot smoothly across under the first joint, and without shortening the leaves planting it into the smallest-sized pot's, into a light sbil chiefly composed of leaf-mould and sand or in pure white sand alone. The sand must be well wetted, and the cutting inserted just as far as will enable it to stand upright, as the shallower they are planted the better. When the cuttings ore so planted they should be plunged in a brisk bottom-heat and shaded from the sunshine. In 12 or 14 days they will have omitted roots, and should bo accustomed to air by degrees. When they will stand without flagging or drooping their leaves they may then be transplanted into larger pots and into richer soil. The sand being previously shaken, they must now bo accustomed to a lower temperature, and gradually hardened off for planting out in November. The process of multiplying by division, is simple, and requires nothing beyond the careful separation of the tubers, each piece having a portion of the crown of tho root attached to it, hi which there are two or more eyes or buds, without which they would not grow. CLIANTITUS. Clianthus puniceus, one of our most beautiful native plants, is now a mass of scarlet bloom, and is one of the most beautiful plant's known. It was first discovered on tho cost coast of the North Island by Sir Joseph Banks and Dr Solander, who accompanied Captain Cook in his first voyage to New Zealand in 1769. The white variety originated in Tasmania some years ago, and by some is highly prized; but the old scarlet is the showier of the two, and deserves more attention than it at present xeoeives from plant-growers. It is a common and well-known plant in the South of England, being found in the majority of gardens, especially in the 'south-west, where it is perfectly hardy. A writer in The Garden says of tho white variety that it rarely comes true from seed, as it has a way of throwing back to the crimson type. Since its introduction I have raised annually hundreds of seedlings, and have not yet found the slightest variation from the greenish white of the parent. It seems strange if in England it reverts back to the crimson. Both varieties are easily raised from seeds, which are freely produced, and also by cuttings. TREATMENT OF PANSIES. Pansies and violas during the flowering season should have all the withered blooms picked off. If once seed-pods are allowed to form, the plants will soon cease to bloom. Tho growth of tho plants will be greatly assisted by keeping the soil between the plants in a friable condition with tho hoe, and also by giving the plants a top-dressing of some light, rich material, such as welldecayed manure, leaf-mould, and sand. Pansies and violas like a rich soil, and respond to liberal treatment, so that some stimulant in tho way of weak liquid manure, soot water, or some artificial fertiliser may be applied with beneficial results. In all oases the rule should be “weak and often.” In dry weather the plants arc benefited by frequent waterings. After blooming for some months in summer, the flowers begin to deteriorate, and tho plants become straggling and overgrown. They should then be cut over and the old woody flowering sterns removed. Fresh growths will soon spring up, and. with the assistance of a light top-dressing and stimulants, fresh crops of flowers will bo produced. SWEET PEAS. As the seedlings are growing, much good will be done by stirring the soil between them frequently. This allows tho air to enter and permeate tho soil, end at the same time destroys tho young weeds which are sure to appear. Thinning must be attended to early, leaving the plants 3in apart at first, and when they get 3in high pull out every other one, so that they finally stand 6in apart. For exhibition purposes Ift apart is not too much. As soon as tendrils appear, twiggy sticks l2in or 15in high must be afforded the plants, leaving the main sticks or supports until the plants have nearly reached the tops of the small ones. This may seem double labour, but it is justified by results. If the tail sticks are placed in position at the cutset the plants frequently become attenuated and weak; but by using the smaller sticks a nt-urdy, healthy foundation is scoured. When they commence to show their flower buds frequent applications of weak liquid manure is necessary to ensure the best re suite. Being gross feeders, they ran do with copious supplies during tho growing season, and several sprinklmgs of nitrate o‘ soda, or any other well-known artificial manure, will ensure flowers fit for exhibition. A mulch of well-rotted manure. Sin or 3in thick, laid over the roots will keep

them cool during the hot, dry weather. Only in very dry weather is it advisable to give them water; but, if thought necessary, it should be done in the evening, and they should get a good soaking. Syringing the foliage in the evening during hot weather is beneficial to the growth. To keep them in bloom for a long period it is essential that the flowers be picked before they decay, and on no account must they bo allowed to form seeds, or the flowers will soon diminish in size and length of spike. By attending to these cultural details a continuous supply of bloom can be obtained for five or six months. By allowing them to mature seed, sweet peas will be past blooming in about a month’s time.