HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 3085, 30 April 1913, Page 12

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Br J. Gebbis THE CACTUS FAMILY. For some reason plants of the cactus family are not generally cultivated as house plants, and yet they are well adapted to the ordinary temperature of the living room, and will bear neglect much better than most window plants. Destitute of true leaves, the offics of the 'alter arc filled by the succulent, spiny, sometimes hairy, stems, which develop into the most varied, interesting, and curious forms imaginable. Many of them, from buds projected almost anywhere on their surface, unfold into blossoms of great beauty iu form and eo'our, with rich and powerful fragrance. There are three general forms —those with molike, columnar main stems and stiff branches; those of globular form growing singly or in clusters, and others with flai-er-ed, jointed stems, the joints, though thick and pulpy, being of a somewhat leaflike shape. The great majority of the cactus family are of tropical or sub-tropical origin, and ■occur in great V-st numbers, size, and diversity of form in Mexico and the desert regions of the United States. The two genera most distinguished for the profusion and beauty of their blossoms are Cereus and Kinhyllum. The foimor is noted also for the gigantic size attained bv some of the species. The night-blooming Oereus (Cereus grandiflorus) and some other of the species produce magnificent white blossoms which expand for only a single night. Other species produce equally sp'endtd flowers —some pink, crimson, creamcoloured. and rose-colour. —which open in the sunlight, many of the blossoms being 6in to lOin in diameter Some of the smaller-flowering varieties have purple, orange, and cream-coloured blo-som«. which continue open for several days. The epiphyl'ums are mostly of drooping habit, and in cultivation bloom in midwinter, which adds greatly to their value, a plant bearing from 50 to 100 Iflo.-sonis. which remain fresh for two or three weeks. In these the colours are crimson, scarlet, pink, violet, and white. Three plants are rapid

growers, and are very satisfactory subjects for the greenhouse. FLOWER GARDEN AND SHRUBBERIES. As the planting season will soon be on, it i.s now time to look through the garden to see what plants require thinning. It generally happens that the common kinds encroacji on others, and, if not looked to and cut away .soon, damage them in such a manner as to permanently injure them and quite spoil their beauty. To show off, as they ought, each plant in the shrubbery should fland clear of the other, and the bare spaces between might be beautified by planting any hardy buUs, such as daffodils, etc. and the more open parts near the walks with crocuses, hyacinths, primroses, and other plants of a like nature that will stand and take care of themselves. The mistake that is generally made in the formation of shrubberies is in following the higgledy-piggledy system of planting instead of making a proper selection of suitable subjects, and arranging them according to their habit and character, giving plenty of room to grow to thou - natural size without encroaching on each other —a plan that should always bo adopted. Between their permanent shrubs any common material may be used for filling in. which can gradually be cut away as the others extend. By adopting this course much after-trouble in regulating and rearranging is saved, as the plants, being pm in suitable positions at first, have no occasion to be interfered with or molested again. The pruning requisite for deciduous trees and shrubs consists mainly in thinning out the branches where they are crowded. Beyond this and the removal of dead and decaying wood, the less of the knife the better. Although it is not desirable to prune established plants, c. shortening or the reduction of tnc head is often a great help to large plants freshly transplanted, especially ii they are not well rooted, as it strikes a more equal balance, as it were, between the two, and gives the tops a chance of receiving what sap they require to keep the bark fresh and plump. What interferes with newly-moved trees and shrubs more than anything else and prevents their taking fresh hold is the want of proper support, without which they are ever cn the move and the sport of every wind that blows, which sways them tq and fro and chafes off the tender fibres as they form by the straining and friction of the roots as they are nulled and pushed backwards and forwards in the ground. This being so, it will be seen how important it i.s that they be securely staked and tied to hold them fast in their places, which, if the plants are large, can easiest be done by using three stakes, tripod fashion, and bringing the upper ends so as to catch the stem of the tree at about two-thirds of its height. To prevent chafing of the bark the stem should be well protected by a good packing of buy or old sacking under the supports. For trees on lawns, where neatness is a consideration, stout galvanised who may bo used instead of stakes, and if the lower ends are made fast to pegs driven into the earth, such supports answer the purpose well, and, besides being neat, they have the advantage of lasting a long time, and never require renewal. LIFTING CHRYSANTHEMUMS FROM THE BORDERS.

Chrysanthemums can safely be lifted from the borders, potted up, and need for indoor decoration during the winter months, and will be found very useful at a season when flowers are scarce. Before lifting the plants the soil should be made quite firm all round them by treading. Then with a clean, sharp spade thrust well down, sever the roots on every side, and about 4in away from the main stem. This will enable the plants to be lifted wifh a good ball of soil and roots, for which a large pot or other receptacle must be used. Make the new soil quite firm round the roots, and give a thorough watering. Set the plants in a sheltered position out of doors. The check' given to these plants may cause the loss of a few of the lower leaves; but the buds will not be materially affected. For a few days after lifting give frequent syringings on fine days, and this will do more good than a constant watering of tlie soil. Maintain the foliage in a fresh condition, and new roots will toon permeate the soil. When the buds begin to show colour they may be introduced to the conservatory or greenhouse, and if ample ventilation be afforded, the buds will be sturdy and the flowers very satisfactory, remaining in good condition for a considerable time. THE VALLEY OF ROSES.

One of the chief industries of Bulgaria is the cultivation of the rose for the purpose of manufacturing attar of roses. The vast area of fertile land lying between mountain ranges in the neighbourhood of Rasaniik is devoted entirely to roses, and is appropriately known as “ The A alley of Roses.” It, is. the Damask rose that is so e\tensi\ely grown for the distilleries—• both ied and white varieties. Fiom its vast plains and valleys of roses the Balkan territory has earned for itself the title of ‘•The Rose Garden of Europe.”