HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 3033, 1 May 1912, Page 12

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Br J. Gebbie.

AUTUMN FLOWERS. Caryopteris niaetacanthus is a very freeflowering shrub with dull soft green folia-gs, the loaves being silvery underneath and emitting a peculiar fragrance. The light lavender-coloured blossoms are produced in whorls on every shoot. A .few small plants put out in the border last spring present quite a. picture now, when the season is throwing its veil over so many of our favourite flowers. Blue-flowered shrubs arc so rare that it is a pleasure to notice this little-known plant. It is a native of Ohina. quite hard}', and rarely exceeds 3ft in height in North Otago. Leonotus leonurus (lion s tail) is another autumnal flowering plant, seldom seen in our gardens, although an old introduction from South Africa.. The scarlet flowers are produced in whorls on every shoot, and are very showy. The autumn crocus (Colehicum speciosum) is at present fully in flower, and is very effective in clumps in the border. The flowers are very large, rosy purple, and about four inches in diameter. These hardy bulbous plants with orocuslike flowers need only to be planted in common garden soil. The flowers spring up as if by magic late in autumn, and before the leaves make their appearance. TUBEROUS BEGONIAS. I saw in a Waimate garden a few days ago a line display of tuberous begonias in the open border. These were imported from a noted Home grower, and were a magnificent lot Single and double varieties of many brilliant shades were planted as an inside edging, with a plant of the dwarf cocksfoot grass between each, the result being a very effective display. The tuberous begonias are grand bedding plants, and delight in light, rich soil in a cool situation They continue flowering until frost sets in, when they should be dug up, dried, and then stored in some dry frostfree place during the winter. ABELIA HENDERSON!. This is one of the most persistent flowering shrubs that I know of. It has been in flower for three months, and gives promise of continuing for some time. It is a r.eat-habited shrub with glossy green foliage and white tubular-shaped blossoms borne in clusters on the point of every shoot. It will thrive under ordinary conditions and (lower well whore planted in the open ground. It is very suitable for growing on a rockery. x WINTERING PELARGONIUMS.

On the approach of winter numerous inquiries are set on foot as to the best mode oi keeping old plants of pelargoniums which have been bedded out safely through the winter. Many devices are adopted with more or less success. One of the most frequent mistakes is that of cutting the shoots down at lifting time. The consequence of this is that the dampness of the atmosphere causes the shoots to decay, and portions, if not all, of the plant perish. The best plan is to lift the plants carefully so as not to break either roots or shoots, but to preserve both entire, pick off all the largest leaves, and then place the plants in boxes, filling in around tfiio roots with finely-sifted soil. Give one good watering, and afterwards only enough to keep them from withering. They can bd placed in the greenhouse or garden frame. In spring every shoot, if taken off, may be used as a cutting, and will make good plants, and the old plants will make fine bushes. Few plants are so easily propagated and grown as pelargoniums if only reasonable precautions are taken, but there are few more easily injured by using the knife too freely when the plants are dormant. One may cut when growth is progressing freely, but when lifted cutting roots and tops at once is a practice to be condemned. A NEW BEGONIA. In the January number of the Garden is a coloured plate of a new tuberous-rooted begonia named Lady Cromer. This novelty is one of the finest begonias that have ever been raised. This fine variety was raised by the well-known linn of Messrs T. S. Ware, of Foltham, and was exhibited by them at many of the loading exhibitions, end was so highly thought of that it was awarded a certificate from the Royal Horticultural Society, London, from the Royal Agricultural Society of Norwich, and from the Royal Caledonian Society, Edinburgh. The flowers are camellia-shaped, double, pearly pink, shading off to a delicate b ush white at the edges of the petals. The blooms measure lOin across, and although so large, are borne well above the foliage. Stout and erect stems are characteristic of this variety. Stakes and supports, of any kind arc not necessary. WINTERING FLOWER ROOTS. Many amateurs, on the approach of winter, desire to know the best way to store or keep certain flower roots through the winter, and to such the following hints may prove useful: —Gladioli, as the foliage begins to turn yellow, should be lifted carefully, choosing a fine day for the work. Tie them in bundles and hang up to dry. When sufficiently dry remove the soil and cut off the foliage to within lin of the conns. They may be stored in paper bags or boxes in some dry place. Tuberous begonias, when touched by frost, should bo dug up carefully and placed in boxes. The leaves and portion of stems should be removed. Place them in the full sim during the day until they arc thoroughly dry. They must not remain outside during the night. When quit© dry and the remaining portion of the stem is in a withered condition, remove the latter by giving a gentle twist. They are then ready for placing in their winter quarters. Place the tubers carefully in shallow boxes, on© lajcr only in a box, and stand them on the floor in some place wher e frest cannot reach them. Dahlias when blackened by frost may be dug up, but before doing so cut th© stomps down to within Ift of the ground. Allow the tubers to dry thoroughly, remove all the soil from them, and store in a dry shed from which frost is excluded. I find them keep very well under the protection of a thick hedge or under pine trees, covering them with fallen leaves or some light soil. In dry situations they may be left in the ground until the growth starts in spring, when they cun be lifted, divided, and replanted. Cannas are treated similar to the dahlias. Dig up and remove a portion of the soil from the roots and treat as advised for the begonias until they are perfectly dry. Cut off th© dead leaves, but do hot cut the

storm down close—only remove the part that is quite withered. Cannas can be stored like the dahlia, and, like the dahlia, be placed: in a frame in spring before growth commences, and the young shoots will be strong and healthy. Lobelia is one of our best edging plants for beds, borders, etc. It is often raised from seeds, and a good percentage comes true, but is is better to propagate them from cuttings L;ft a few plants from the beds, cut back, and pot up. These will furnish plenty of cuttings in spring. Placed on the shelf of a greenhouse, they will require little attention, an occasional watering being herbaceous lobelias need protection during the winter in many districts. Remove the flower stems to within a few inches of the soil. Dig up the roots, and pack them close together in boxes which are just deep enough to accommodate them. They may then be placed in the greenhouse or' frame. Very little water will bo required during the winter. When growth commences in the spring the young shoots may be taken off single and grown in boxes like other bedding out plants until planting-out time in September.