ON A SACRED MOUNTAIN IN CENTRAL CHINA

Otago Witness, Issue 3031, 17 April 1912, Page 83

ON A SACRED MOUNTAIN IN CENTRAL CHINA

(By Johx Watt, in Chambers’s Journal.) Nan Yo Shan, 600 ft high, is one of the five sacred mountains of China. Situated in the south-eastern part of the province of Hunan, it is 130 miles up the liver from Changsha, the capital, and then inland westward 20 miles. Its sanctity dates from very early times; for if the conclusion arrived at by authorities —that the ancient inscribed stone recording the engineering feats of the Great Yu (2205 n.c.) in successfully coping with a terrible flood of tire Hoang-ho was erected*, upon it because of its sacredness—be correct, then its sanctity reaches back to before the beginnings of Chinese history. At and near the top are some small caves ‘which tradition and probability tell us were in ancient times the abodes of ascetics. On what is practically the summit are the monastery buildings,' and a short distance away, perched upon the highest rock, is a small temple. When these buildings were erected is uncertain, for the time-resisting blocks of granite of which they are built give no intimation. The great age of the massive structure is undoubted; and, considering the extreme antiquity of the sanctity of the mountain, in all probability it was selected as a site upon which to plant a monastic community not very many years after the introduction of Buddhism into China —70 a.d. Such was the interesting goal of our pilgrimage, and the fact that this isolated monastery has rarely been visited by Europeans added a zest to the trip. Our party consisted of the writer and his two sons, the elder of whom was tine only one of us who spoke Chinese. Our first move was to apply to the taotai of Changsha for permission to visit Nan Yo Shan. This granted, we then visited the commandant of the military at our own town, and asked for and obtained two soldiers, not as a protection against violence, but as i restraining influence should the curiosity of the country people become too obtrusive. Having selected and hired a junk, we at once began slowly to ascend the river. Our goal in the junk was the city of Heng Shan, 70 miles away, which wo reached at 4 p.m. on the third day. On arrival at Heng Shan we sent our cards and the permit by one of the soldiers to the magistrate, and presently an official came on board, accompanied b\ a soldier, into whose charge we then passed. Having made arrangements for a chair for myself and for coolies as bag-gage-carriers, we started next morning. Of all the woebegone, dilapidated places one can imagine, Heng Shan seemed the most miserable. It is estimated by the missionary living at Heng Shan that as many as 30.000 pilgrims per day visit the mountain in the height of the season, of which number at least 10,000 pass through Heng Shan. Such an accession in numbers would transform the streets into crowded and busy thoroughfares. The pilgrim season begins in June and lasts four months. The aspect of the country hero was very similar to the other parts of Hunan—the same paddy-fields, the same narrow roads, and the same farmhouses embowered in shady compounds. The staple products, as usual, were rice and children. Boys and girls of seven or eight years tended flocks of ducks numbering many bun-

dreds, guiding them, while feeding in tfae paddy-fields, by means of a slim bamboo 20ft long; and children herding goats on the gently-sloping hillside, or raking in twigs and coarse grass for fuel, were frequently seen. Journeying along roads sft wide and raised about 2ft above the surrounding mud and water of the padd,)--fields has its drawbacks. Several times T«-e met a man wheeling a barrow upon wlsach lay a large pig securely bound; and As this practically occupied the who! a width of the road, we stopped the barrow and my bearers gingerly engineered their way round or over the pig's head. I noticed here for the first time, a singular custom. For warmth some of the women had fastened under their dress, sometimes before and sometimes behind, a small basket enclosing an earthenware cylinder in which had been placed some "burning charcoal. Our progress through the country caused a little sensation among the inmates of houses as we passed ; but the climax came when we stopped to rest in a fairsized village. Under the covered way in front oi the tea-houses were benches and stools. Mv white beard was the principal item of interest at the tea-houses. It was really amusing to study the faces of the men grouped round me, and to notice the soft expression that cams into their eyes as they gazed intently upon my beard; one man, bolder or more devout than the others, gently touched it, at the same time speaking. "It's all right, father," said my son, who was near; "he is almost worshipping your beard. He calls it silver threads." ' About noon we arrived at' Nan Yo, an ecclesiastical town at the foot of the mountain. This plaee had the same woebegone and deserted appearance' as Heng Shan. We stopped at a rather large building, a so-called hotel, intending to take up our quarters there; but the official was strenuous in his argument that we should go to one of the temples. We entered the Taoist temple, where we had some tiffin in comparative privacy, as only seven or eight priests stood around looking on. The temple grounds cover an area of about six or seven acres, and are surrounded by a wall 14ft high. They are subdivided into three enclosures, in the principal of which stands the main temple, surrounded by avenues of trees and a granite pavement, on either side of which, instead of a, grass sward, the space is given over to half-bricks, ash-heaps, potsherds, broken glass, and other indications of untidiness and neglect. Sundry pigs, dogs, and fowls roamed at will. Pound the temple enclosure were pillared cloisters in a similar state of dirt and disorder, even to the ashes and bits of charred sticks remaining from the fires made against the cloister wall by the pilgrims of the past season. The temple itself stands upon a raised foundation, and is surrounded by a colonnade. On the face of the raised foundation and on the walls of the temple are carvings of white marble in relief. Access to the temple is obtained by a double flight of granite steps, and crossing the colonnade, we enter through a small door. The interior is gloomy and cavern-like, and until the eye gets accustomed to the darkness little is seen. Opposite the main entrance is the shrine, in which is seated a massive gilded fijrure supported on either side by others standing. In front of the shrine is the altar, upon which is a bowl of burning incense and a lighted lamp of antique make In front of the altar is a table upon which are carved bambo vases and curiously-carved staves, part of the stock-in-trade of the priest-soothsayers. Ranged round the walls at varying distances are other gilded figures, some gigantic and of ferocious appearance. Of the other three temples we visited but one, that containing an ancient monument. This was a representation in stone of a gigantic tortoise. On its back stood a stone pillar taperin" a little towards the top. We could learn nothing about its history or meaning. , , Leaving the Taoist temple grounds, wo passed through a good portion of the town to the Buddhist temple. This temple had the same gloomy, cavernous interior as the Taoist temple, with a similar arrangement of gilded figures; but the seated_ Buddha was much larcrer and more artistic in design and finish than the figure in the Taoist shrine. The calm, majestic _ expression on its face called forth our highest admiration. I asked our priest-guide where were the praying wheels, and was informed that the Chinese Buddhists never used them. We were led out into the grounds behind, and wore shown where the priests were cremated and th*> grave where the ashes were deposited. The crematorium was a small, square building the bricked-up doorway of which was still warm from the Inst burning. The grave was in the usual Chinese style, horseshoe shape, with granite monoliths round the curve, a square stone covered the aperture which led to the vault below. Next morning our caravan started for the ascent. For the first three miles the gradients were fairly easy, though at the steeper places the roadway, paved with granite slabs, was frequently con verted into steps. The remaining distance, seven miles, was nearly all steps; rarely did we experience a bevel or slope, and then only for a short distance. Twice the way led along a real " razor-back." On both sid-'S the mountain sloped precipitously, where with one stumble on the part of the bearers ali interest in life would have ended. At oilier times the steps were so steep that there seemed a danger of the hearers falling backward. At such places I preferred to get out of my chair and walk. At various intervals wevv- smf.il villages the few houses of which clustered about a with benches and stool* under the covered way as usual. H"re we would stay a while, rest the coolies, and enjoy a pipe while being inspected bv the natives. The scenery during the earlier part of the ascent was very enjovSiVle. Th» trulln* of the foothills had their rushing streams and foaming casendes, while their sides were often terraced by miniature paddyfields. We looked down upon the city of

Nan Yo, with its yellow-roofed temples, and upon the country round, with its small lakes, streams, villages, and farmhouse compounds. But soon this pleasant view was gone, for at an elevation of about 2000 ft we entered the clouds, and the earth was lost to us until our return. Emerging from this cloud-stratum, we were disappointed to find the sunshine still excluded from us by another cloud-mass at a great height, as we had not entered it on reaching the monastery. The position of the last village was peculiar. It was built on both sides of the steep roadway. Later on we came to a small Buddhist temple, where we stayed a short time for the double purpose of resting the coolies and inspecting the interior. The altar shrine contained the usual Buddha, who was supported on either side by figures, one seated on an elephant a,nd the other on a tiger, each with a foot on the neck of a coolie who seemed labouring under the burden. Other figures there were, one a god of agriculture, if we could judge by the offering of fruit at his feet. This figure, with uplifted hand, held up the first and second fingers, as our Christian bishops do when giving the benediction. This sign is found in the ancient Egyptian carvings. The Goddess of Mercy was here. She holds in Chinese Buddhism a position analogous to that- of the Virgin Mary. She is always represented leading a little child. The usual burning incense and joss-sticks, as well as drums, bells quaintly carved, and gongs, were in evi* dence. Continuing the ascent, we approached a small building, the door of which gradually filled with forms and the faces of others peering over them. They were very old Buddhist monks and nuns, and the hut was their last home during life. , Up, still up, yet no signs of the monastery. We came to another small Buddhist temple built over the entrance of some caves, the abode in very ancient times of ascetics. They are now used by the at» tend ant monks as dormitories, and contain only Chinese plank-beds, with a pieoe of matting and a bambo pillow as bedding. At last, on reaching the top of a long and steep flight of steps, there was the onen gateway of the monastery enclosure not 20ft away. We passed at once into a quadrangle, on three sides of which were substanial earthworks about 10ft high as a breakwind, while the fourth was taken up by a low, granite-slab building, in the centre of which was the one and only entrance. There was nobody about, so our caravan marched up tthe steps and through the doorway into a chapel, in which was seated a monk apparently in meditation, or, what is more likely, indulging in a snooze. Our abrupt entrance gave him a start, of which we took no notice; but, headed by one of the soldiers, we went round the shrine and out into a small courtyard, crossing which we went up some "steps and along a cloister, until the soldier stopned my chair, out of which I stepped joyfully. Our advent had ell the appearance of a forcible entry. By this time some monks had gathered round, astonishment being clearly depicted upon their countenances. The soldier presented our cards, and we were shown into the reception room, and then into our cell, to which such of our belongings as we required were taken. Our cubiculum was about 10ft square, with a damp, earthen floor. Its one window was barred with wood, and instead of glass there was oiled paper, which, if it was intended to obstruct the light, was certainly successful. The furniture consisted of three plank-bedsteads, one small table close under the window, and one stool. When the charcoal-pan fire was brought in great care was required in moving about. As we had our meals m the reception room, the smallness of which bedroom did not cause us much inconvenience. Presently one of the soldiers came in and told us the abbot had come to visit us Going into the reception room, we saw a little, burly old gentleman, who "chin-chined" and greeted us with smiles and words of welcome. His kindly, genial face contrasted well with the ascetic-look-ing-cowl while the yellow robe of his order gave him aru importance not justified by his stature. I took a fancy to him at once. After the usual complimentary exchanges so dear to the Chinaman and so essential in Chinese etiquette, he invited us to partake of a little refreshment he had ordered to be brought in. There were sweetmeats of various kinds, and tea. In accordance with Chinese custom and in deference to my age (70), ho put me at the h«\-id of the table, while as host he sat at the bottom. He was assiduous in helping me to the various confections, and some that were curious in form he parted for me. He inquired where we had come from, and as Australia was an unknown country to him, he had some difficulty m comprehending the distance. He asked how old I was, and expressed has wonder that a man of my nitc should come so far to visit the mountain in the middle of winter. During all this there were congregated in the room over a score of monks and coolies, who stood stolidly staring at us while we ate. The abbot gave us" an invitation to dine with him. and presently left, the crowd making a lane, through which he passed, his ample yellow robe sweeping behind. We lit our pipes, and strolled to the outside enclosure to look round. Not much was to be seen. The landscape was quite shut off from us by the clouds, only the rugged mountain-tops being visible. Overhead, the lowering aspect of heavy banks of clouds seemed to portend a coming storm. The abbot came out and invited us to his cell. It was furnished similarly to our own, hut with only one bedstead, while it had two bamboo easy-chairs. Tea was brought in, pipes were lit,' and a cigar offered to the abbot was accepted with a beaming fare. There was no mistaking the T*lish with which it was sucked —I cannot sav smoked. In a little while he launched out into a dissertation on Buddhism, but he, talked so rapidly, and in a dialect not Pekinese, that my son had sometimes a

difficulty in following him. I told him I that I had studied Buddhism, and much ! admired the beauty of its teaching, at I which he was very pleased; but when I ■ gave him the sacred mystic formula,*" On | jMane Padme Hum," he got up and made | me a low bow, and repeated to me the , Chinese formula, which I afterwards wrote 1 down phonetically—thus, " La Mo 0 Me Tan Fu." The abbot's dinner was laid in out reception room, which earned its title by again " receiving " about a score of monks, who gravely looked on while we ! dined. On the table were six or seven , bowls of hot vegetable stews and a large | bowl of rice. I recognised beans, beancake, turnip, and cabbage; other vege- * tables were unknown to me. Having been through an apprenticeship in the use of chop-sticks, I did fairly well; but, of course, it was a tame affair when comi pared with the ordinary good class Chinese ; dinner. We next adjourned to our cell, the : abbot introducing a monk, the second in | command. They eagerly accepted cigars, | but refused whisky. We then made some I cocoa, which, though they were tasting it I for the first time, was thoroughly en- | joyed, and a second cup was gladly acj cepted. We promised the abbot to send j him some, which in due course we did. i Some months after we had a letter of thanks, in which he asked us to tell him j how to make the " foreign tea." Our instructions had been evidently forgotten. I We made anxious inquiries relative to the ! whereabouts of a certain very ancient in- • scribed stone, to obtain a rubbing of which was one of the objects of our journey. The abbot kindly offered to send a monk as guide. Meanwhile the storm had burst, ; and the roaring of the gale and the pat- ; tering of the rain added to our apprecia- ■ lion of the snug inside. Early next morning, to our great deI light, we found the regions above quite i clear. After breakfast we visited the small j temple on the topmost crag. By this time I the sun had risen considerably, and the ! panorama presented to us was both novel ! and fascinating. Two or three thousand ! feet immediately below us was an amphi- - theatre among the mountains, in which ! could just be discerned a farmhouse and i some terraced paddy-fields, up the lower ! slopes of which crept the snow-white ! clouds. To the left was the lower-level j continuation of Nan Yo Shan, up the I corrugated sides of which there seemed to I surge a glistening mass like a foam-crested I wave upon the seashore. To the right, where the elevations were evidently less, was an ocean of silver, the placid expanse : of which was only broken by protruding tops of hills which had the similitude of rocky islets. I had never before seen the sun shine down upon cloud-masses, and the feeling of pleasure I experienced was that of an entirely new sensation. Alas ! in a short time clouds again obscured the king of day. I Turning from this entrancing scene and , entering the little temple, one felt painfully the contrast. Its single door admitted just sufficient light to discover its dirty and neglected condition. The shrine of the Buddha was dilapidated and in keeping with its surroundings. The only indication of life and cleanliness was the burning incense and the tiny flame of a lamp upon the altar. We spent the rest of the morning leisurely strolliffg round and taking several photographs. Once the abbot took off his j cowl and placed it upon my head, his face beaming with gratification. I asked if he would let me put on his robe and have a. photograph taken in it, which he did without demur. After tiffin, my sons, accompanies by the monk-guide and three Chinamen, started across the mountains two or three miles to take a couple of rubbings of the ancient inscribed stone. When I was left alone with the abbot, he took me by the hand and led me to his cell, where foe motioned me to take an arm-chair and have a sleep, he composing himself in the other. Some time after a monk brought in tea and sweetmeats, of which we partook with solemnity. Then, going over to his the abbot brought forth a rich silk fur-lined robe, whicli he placed in my hands, evidently for my approval; and when I had expressed it by dumb motion, he commenced to undress. Under the yellow robe was one of silk lined with fur, then a sheepskin coat, and he stood revealed in n quilted cotton jacket and short pants. The transformation was remarkable From a burly thick-set man he became a slim, little fellow, his genial face onlv remaining of his former self. As he re-dressed in other garments of a like nature, and finally in the yellow robe and cowl, he became it burly monk a<rain. Having given him a cigar and lit my pipe, I went out with him and took a general survey tof the interior of the monastery. The buildings are not extensive, and their plan is simple in the extreme. Thev form a quadrangle, the sides of which measure about 100 ft. The outer walls are built of massive blocks of granite, through which access is obtained by one gateway only Erected against the inner sides are a series of buildings, also of granite, used as living and sleeping rooms, kitchens, store-rooms, etc., bordered bv a pillared cloister running round the entire enclosure. In the centre of the granite-paved courtyard stands the temple; its gloomy interior was decorated in the usual manner, figures of saints were ranged along the walls, and there were bells and drums, burning incense, and other accessories of worship. As we strolled along the cloisters mv risibility was sorely tried when I glanced at my companion, a Buddhist monk, clothed in the yellow robe instituted by Gautama himself 2500 years ago, walking about smoking a cigar. The incongruity was perfect. The temple hell tolled for a service, and I went in, the abbot finishing his cigar out**"!*. In front of the enshrined Buddha 12 monks were kneeling in two rows of six each, while standing a little on one side were two more monks in charge of the drums, gongs, and hells, the

soft melodious tones of which made a fitting accompaniment to the singing. The chanting was in atiphon; as the one choir sang the foreheads of the other touched the ground, and vice versa every alternate verse. At intervals a kind of doxology was sung by both choirs, during which one of the musicians advanced in front of the Buddha, swung a censer of burning incense aloft several times, made a low bow, and returned. Then the chant was changed. The last one, in very quick time, seemed to carry with it an idea of an imploring nature; suddenly it changed to a soft and solemn dirge which both choirs murmured with foreheads touching the ground; then one musician advanced and swung the censer, while the other softly tinkled a silver-toned bell. It forcibly reminded one of the ceremony of the elevation of the Host in a Roman Catholic Church. The service was certainly impressive, the gloomy surroundings without doubt adding an element of solemnity. We spent the evening in our cell as previously, the abbot giving us some hymns and religious exercises. Meanwhile the storm-king had again marshalled his forces. The howling wind and pelting rain suggested the possibility of an enforced stay on the morrow; but our good luck was still with us, for in the morning the sun rose in a fairly clear sky. The abbot and a number of the monks accompanied us to the outer gateway. The farewells to and from the kindly group did not take long. The abbot, adopting for the nonce the foreign fashion of salutation, grasped my extended hand within both his own and gave many blessings. Of all the many pleasant picture-memo-ries this unique trip so oiten affords, none seems complete without the portraiture of the genial face of the good old abbot of Nan Yo Shan. Our descent was as rapid as possible. In due course we entered the clouds, and upon emerging found it pleasant to look on the face of the earth again. At Nan Yo we hurried to the Buddhist ;temple to take a photo of the crematorium and grave. To our surprise, we found the brickwork of the opening of the crematorium had been taken down, and inside i a lot of wood had been stacked for another burning. Just outside was a box on four legs like a meat-safe, which the priestguide told us contained the body of. the deceased. We went back to where some funeral meats were laid out and priests were performing a ceremony. We were informed we must not be present; neither would they allow the camera to be used. They were ignorant of the photo, we had just taken of the crematorium, so it is possible that the picture is unique. We hurried on our journey so that we might arrive at our junk before dark. Everything was in readiness, so we started at once, and reached our home at Chuchow before midnight of the following day. The trip was most enjoyable and interesting, and gave me an experience that falls to the lot of but few.