FROM EAST TO WEST AND WEST TO EAST.

Otago Witness, Issue 3029, 3 April 1912, Page 81

FROM EAST TO WEST AND WEST TO EAST.

SOME FINE DOMINION SCENERY. (Br G. Fenwick.) No. 11. The softly painted purple zone Of mountains—bathed where ae-aier eeen In sunny tints of sober green, With velvet dank of woods between, All glossy glooms and shifting sheen; While here and there some peak of snow Would o'er their tender violet lean. Alfked Domett (" Ranolf and Amohia.") THE WEST. We had come to Greymouth to work, for _ the affa'irs of the three important bodies whose annual meetings were about to be held require much careful consideration and discussion. But it was quickly made manifest that the proprietors of the Grey River Argus and the Gieymouth Star had prepared for us a programme of relaxation which Ave should find it very difficult to accept, not to mention the private hospitality of many prominent townspeople. Our time in the pleasant little town which had this year been selected for our meeting place was necessarily to be short, but by careful disposition of the work we had in hand, and by night sittings which more than once extended into the" small hours, we were happily able to participate in all the pljasant outings which had been arra: l,ed for us. And we were fortunately to experience a full week of the most delightful weather—a week of almost uninterrupted sunshine, during which Greymouth appeared a bright and attractive town, dispelling previously-conceived and erroneous notions of it as a place where persistent rain adds severely to the discomforts of life, and whose disabilities in other respects make it not too endurable as a place of residence. It may be frankly confessed that those who had formed such opinions had to promptly abandon them ; and the more readily did they do so when they learned that for nearly nine months last year there was a spell of weather such as they were then experiencing. AN ATTRACTIVE TOWN. In many other respects was it generally conceded that "the Grey," as it is affectionately called by its people, has its attractions. It has emerged from the period when old and inadequate buildings were considered good enough for business purposes, and many substantial premises now give an air of solidity to the town, and are evidence that trade is there to have warranted their erection. And in the matter of private residences, too, it was pleasant to see the transition that is taking place, for added to the comfortable homes of many of the older residents, with their neat and well-kept gardens, there are many new houses which increase the attractiveness of the town and add to the improvements that are being effected in some of the residential streets. Climbing roses are everywhere to be seen, whose luxuriant growth increases the charm of cott: l;e home and more imposing residence alike. On finer days the firm sandy beach to the south of the breakwater is a resort for those who enjoy surfbathing, and the breakwater itself, stretching as it does well on towards the bar beyond the river's mouth, affords a fine parade on calm days. From it may be seen in the far distance, perchance sombre and mist-clad, the massive forms of the great mountains which divide the east from the west, or possibly a clear view of Aorangi, the sky-piercer, gleaming white in a cloudless sky, monarch of the chain of lesser giants by whom he is surrounded. This noble peak is distant 90 or 100 miles in a direct line from Greymouth and from either Hokitika or Greymouth it can, under suitable atmospheric conditions, be distinctly seen. Then, again, Greymouth has its fine bowling green, set in pleasant surroundings, its tennis court, its racecourse (for the residents of " the (hey" have always been ardent supporters of the turf), charming drives to north and south, and, in short, a full share of those beauties and attractions of Nature which tend to the enjoyment and the pleasure of life. It is on one of those drives to a charming bush-clad locality—Point Elizabeth, a fine headland which stretches into the sea some nine miles to the north of Greymouth —that we set out on 'ho day after our arrival. The day was beautifully fine, and after lunch a gor;d!y number of visitors and townspeople, on the invitation of the ]iroprietors of the Grey River Argus, took their places in the numerous vehicles which had been procured for the trip. Wo had a delightful drive, passing en route throrJdi the (b)vernment township of Runanira, the home of the miners who work in the State coal mine not far distant. It is a Socialistic community of advanced views, whose members, as is well known, are. among the strongest of the Labour party of the Dominion. A public hall, prominently situated in one of the main thoroughfares, boars in aggressive, looking lettering the legend : The world's wealth for tho world's workers. United wo stand, divided we fall. Shortly after passing through Runanga we. emerge on a road which skirts the beach, and roach our destination after an extremely pleasant drive. Some of the party, after leaving the vehicles for a short spell, walk on throutrh a- pretty piece of bush. It is tvnical of many miles of forest scenery which some of us are to pass through after the conference work Ls over, stretching far to the very confines of settlement in South Westland. We enjoy our walk of a mile or so on this main road to the north, and then turn to join our party. The return is ailed by a stoppage at a wayside hotel, at which

afternoon tec Js -waiting for us. T/.lis partaken of, the inevitable photograph of all present is taken, and the health of the proprietors of the Grey Biver Argus proposed and heartily honoured 2nd responded to. The writer well remembers the starting) of this pioneer paper of the CoasE in the mid sixties. Its projector?., Messrs James Kerr, John Keogh, J. F. Arnott and' Allan S'Jark— the first three name! compositors, and Mr Stark, the literary member of the partnership, —were on ' the fctaff of the Otago Daily Times, and they left the office with the heartiest good wishes of their fellow employees for the success of their ventr.re in the new El Dorado of the West. It is a far cry to those early days of the Golden Coast, when Hokitika and Greymouth were the centres of vastpopulations of hardy miners scattered along many miles of coastline, when rich deposits of gold rewarded the pioneers for the discomforts they endured, when townships sprang into existence with mushroom growth, and public houses and dancing rooms by the score were thronged with sturdy miners lavishly spending their easily gotten gold, and little- recking of the leaner days to come. For Hokitika and Greymouth were in due time to experience the reaction, the dwindling trade, the lessened prosperity, that inevitably follow in the wake of the exhaustion of the surface deposits of all alluvial goldfields until more permanent industries arise. The West Coast has gone through many vicissitudes since those glittering days of the sixties and early seventies, and sic transit gloria mundi is the thought that comes uppermost in the mind of the pre-sent-day visitor as he passes through the deserted workings of the fields that in bygone years were scenes of busy activity. The well-built heaps of lichen-covered stones, the vast areas of tailings now overgrown with vegetation, the dilapidated and long-deserted huts of the miners, tell their tale of the days that have gone. But they were the precursor of less evanescent prosperity, and it is not_ too much to say that Greymouth especially has had much prosperity of a solid kind for many years, and must have a good future before it. The pleasant afternoon Tea function over, a start for home is made, and_ we reach our respective hotels in good time, delighted with the day's outing. THE MARSDEN ROAD. This plsßftHint jaunt i 3 followed two days after by a. irlve in another direction, again at the invitation of the Grey River Argus Proprietary. This time we are taken to a beautiful piece of bush reserve through which passes Marsden road—not named after the Rev. Samuel Marsden, as might be supposed, but after an early pioneer of the district,—-and home by way of Paroa. We pass through a piece of the most delightful bush, with a wealth of fern trees close to the road and rimu and kahikatea and silver pine trees rearing their heads far above the surrounding vegetation. It is a piece of typical New Zealand bush as seen in localities where the growth is profuse, and the people of Greymouth have done well in seein.g to it that for all time it is to be preserved as a scenic reserve, a beauty spot where, within easy reach of the town, business and household cares may be forgotten and where Nature in her most beauteous aspect may bring a soothing balm to the mind and rest to the physical being. We make a circuit of an extension of this fine piece of bush, which has gone into private hands and will doubtless in due time be cleared and the land made to contribute to the prosperity of Greymouth. Many of the old workings of the goldflolds days are passed. From some of these great quantities of gold were taken, but now the only things to indicate the prosperity of bygone years are great heaps of stones thrown out by the aid of the sluice fork, and considerable areas d-enuded of soil, on which ferns and weeds are the only vegetation. The hut of many n hatter is seen, and occasionally one of these veterans stands in his doorway and returns our salute and greeting. Paroa reached, we found afternoon tea awaiting us at a cosy little cottage residence, where much pleasant hilarity betokened the enjoyment of both visitors and their hosts arid friends. Due recognition was mado of the day's hospitality and of the general good will* shown to us, and an acknowledgment by one of the proprietors in fitting terms, we resumed our drive, and reached home by the pleasant road which skirts the south beach, past the wreck of the Lauderdale lying embedded in the sand. Visits to the bowling green, afternoon teas, pleasant evenings at the homes of some of the residents, and drives to various points of interest were.enjoyed to the full, and as a fitting conclusion to the round of pleasure the Greymouth Star Company issued invitation tickets to a picnic by rail to LAKE MOANA, witii a couple of hours on the lake in three motor launches. The railway line runs through'a piece of beautifully wooded country, and especially picturesque are the banks of the Arnold River, near where the stream leaves the lake. Luncheon was laid in the public hall of the settlement, and a merry party crowded the tables. The health of our'hosts was proposed in cordial terms, and the toast was received with much cheering, the_ manager of the company suitably responding. The waters of the lake wefv. temptingly pL»cid, and we quickly filled the motor launches and sped on our way. The reflections in the lake, as we passed close to the wooded shores, were very fine, and exclamations of delight were continuous. We passed a piece of land which stretches into the lake like a peninsula, on which a Maori pa had stood In verftntb tirries. It has Jiot been occupied within the memory of any of the West Coast Maoris of the present day. and Its hfotory is unknown. Some, time since evidence of its former occupation

was found in the shape of a greenstone tiki and a large stone needle, found ou the surface; and doubtless the ground, which is now private property, will, when systematically searched, yield other ornaments and treasures. Rounding the point we find ourselves in a pretty little bay, and head for a large sawmill -which is busily at work. We landed, and were given the opportunity of seeing a circular saw rip through some big logs of white pine. After about an hour's stay the launches are again boarded, and we have a .good run home, not without a little trouble to the occupants of the smallest launch, however, for the wind has risen, and the placid waters of the lake have changed into waves, which scatter their spray over the occupants of the launch when she gets the waves abeam, as occasionally happens. We are all landed in due course, however, and afternoon tea having been partaken of in the hall, wo are soon entrained again. Greymouth is reached in good time for dinner, and before separating at the station three hearty cheers are given for our hosts, the day having (proved! of the most enjoyable character. Among other pleasant features of our stay were a visit to Kumar a, the home of "the late Mr Seddon, and a dav at Hokitika, where the beauties of Lake Kamieri and Lake Mahinapua proved to be all that had been claimed for them. The reflections in Mahinapua Creek absorbed our attention and admiration, and both lakes presented features of beauty which have been in no way exaggerated in the descriptions of them which are so well known to all New Zealanders. We [parted from all our new-made friends at Greymouth with genuine regret, eome of us to reach our homes by way of the Otira, some by steamer for the north, some by way of Hokitika, Boss and South Westland, and across the Southern Alps, and it is of the last-men-tioned trip that I have something to say, for the homeward route by way of the Copland Pass to the Hermitage will ere ]o<i«: be better known than it is at present, ' s