FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 3019, 24 January 1912, Page 73

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

(From Oub Own Correspondent.) December 8.

—More Than Ever Conspicuous. —

There is no doubt about it —the short skirt, the tight skirt, the skirt which is both short end has to bo opened at the side to allow movement, all have made their influence felt on chaussuro. All these skirte, whether for the daytime or for the evening, demand elegance in footwear, and they have been responsible for the very modern craze of making the shoe lace up the outer side of the foot on a level with the ankle bone. In this positon, as I mentioned a few weeks ago, the shoes are ornamented with laces of gold tinsel or of satin rbbon weighted with beads. It is not every evening shoe, however, which fastens at tho side; the Court shoe does not fasten anywhere, but it has to bo up to dstc and adopt a side trimming; therefore it is the height of fashion for tho sparkling ornament which usually rests on the instep to be shunted round a few inches to take up its position at one side—tho other side, of course. And here it glitters through the skirt of lace, or shows itself as the hem of unlined fringe dangles with movement, or is revealed in all its glory when tho skirt happens to be slit up at tho side for several inches, a.s quite a number of the still tight skirts have to ze to allow of the sort of plav in walking. There is a new walking skirt, too, which brings the foot into considerable prominence. The back of this is made with some fulness at the waist, and is cut in a downward curve; this gives freedom to the gait; the front breadth is similarly cut in a curve, while _ the side widths are straight. This skirt insists on being accompanied by the smartest of shoes. Shoes are in these days a loading feakiro of tho toilet. Velvet, doeskin, sued© to match tho gown are needed, finished with buckles of silver or gold or paste (for the evening). 'lf boots ame Required, thev ehoul 1 have patent-leathcrl fronts, with uppers of chamois or suede or coloured cloth or satin to match the dress. White tops to black-fronted boots are still much worn, but they are trying oven to the daintiest foot, especially when the skirt happens to be a dark colour. It is true, of course, that evening skirts are inclined to grow in length, but they are not inclined to add much to their width, particularly if tho fabric be a solid one such as-brocade or velvet or double satin; therefore a slit is made at each side seam so that the shoo and the stocking arc considorablv in evidence. The trained skirt, too, dees not always cover the feet, for the train, whether at the back or at the side, whether out with one point or of fish-tail pattern, has at times to bo carried —it is always an affair separate from tho skirt beneath ; and when this train is raised, the feet are visible all round. All the faehionnb'c trains have sewn to thorn, inside and out. of sight, a ring or a loon of ribhon ; through this the finger is slipped when the train has to be carried. This convenience is

(regarded as one of the “practical little noi things that facilitate the wearing' of the I most expensive dresees.” There is no limit to the gorgeour of the evening shoe,, made usually now with its heel high and its front of great length, covering the instep ; this length is possible because of the side Lacing, and scope is available for the decorator with beads and gems to work a flashing pattern on the front of the shoe, whoso material may be of satin or of tinsel clcth or of Ottoman silk. The fabric matters not at all, the only tiring that does matter is that it must bo a colour-match to the skirt, and quite frequently tire shoemaker is supplied wth a piece of the dress material. Not only decs he devote attention to the ornamentation of the front of the shoe, but he outlining the heel —top and bottom—witn a line of glittering gems the colour, of course, being regulated by the individual requirements. Dainty feet, therefore, attract attention as they trip lightly up and ] down a great central staircase, visible in their entirety below a short skirt which if it lias length in its normal position has none at all Vhen the train ia carried. —Wreath and Veil.— Every prospective bride likes to bo thorougfdy acquainted with all that is latest concerning the small details of her wedding day attire. Therefore I have no hesitation in reproducing what a writer in Paris vouches to bo quite the latest. She tolls . us that recently a young and lovely bride of well-known family inaugurated the new fashion of wearing a small narrow wreath, or rather a cordon of the bridal flowers right round the head, fixed somewhat like a filet or sneed. The veil was worn beneath this, and was confined close to the head, falling slightly over the brow in a sort of frill. The whole length of the veil behind, falling over the shoulders and (Main bchindi, left uncovered the entire front of the dress. This fashion is evidently in the ascendant. Another bride, a slim, tall brunette with large dark-brown eyes, had her hair dressed in the very latest style—bound closely round her head in loosely rolled coils. Beneath these fell a email, light fringe of hair cut straight across the forehead, and just above the fringe was a light cordon of single orange blossoms, with a few of their own leaves. The wreath was of the lightest, airiest description, but it held the veil in place most securely. This was of the simplest, plainest white tulle, and was out plain, made without any hem. It fell round the face in a soft flounce, and was drawn down behind over tho shoulders and long train with a graceful and light effect that was most picturesque. French bridesmaids wear colours to suit themselves, therefore it is seldom that two are dressed aike; thev usually agree, however, in choosing similar materials. After the ceremony, oaoh bridesmaid, attended bv her groomsman, parses down the rows of guests to make a collection for the poop of the parish—a very old wedding custom in France, — and each one carries an aumonicre bag made of the same material as the dress, finished with a large flower to m atoli in colour. —Fringe or No Fringe?— From many sources rumours float around that the straight fringe across they forehead is without doubt about to be revived at an early date. This may be so, but the public seems to be in no hurry to adopt this lino of clipnedi hair across the brow. A parting somewhere is preferred, with loose dr-apings of hair making for tho cars, which are eventually surmounted by plaited coil oabochons, if not entirely covered by the hair ear. The style is terribly trying; slightly tanies are satisfied to have their hair parted in an unbroken lino from the brow right to tho nape of the neck, the two plaits which are then made being coi’ed over tho ear. The style is ttrribly trying; slightly I less stiff arc tho bunches of coquettish curls which dangle lightly at either side of the head. Tho seeker after a style less trying will arrange to have plenty of coils and our's and drapings of hair all over the heed. combined with a plaited boss, which is arranged at either side over each ear or just above it. More Vbout Furs.— Constant change is one of the most marked characteristics of modern fashions. No sooner does one novel idea come and establish itself than it has a rival in tho field a week later, which, in its turn, will be shunted into the background. Wo all

know that the union of two varieties of fur is one of the established facts of the season, and that at times it is not impossible for throe different kinds of skins to dwell together in unison. But usually the idea is to make for colour contrast, and in this season of white with black and black with white, the furriers have spread ! themselves to bo quite up to date. They j have liberally combined- ermine with skunk, with seal, with musquash, with chinchilla. | Chinchilla and seal have gone together ; so | have ermine and dark fox. It is, however, i quite the latest idea to combine two furs 1 of different appearance but of one tone. In this way we are shown a stole made half tof white fox and half of tailless ermine. The union takes place at the middle of the back of the neck, the fox being made to clutch in his teeth the beginning of the ermine, availing down the front, the ermine side is finished with a fringe of ermine tails; the fox side is finished with a huge fox brush. The mufil matches. Its foundation is of ermine fringed with tails, and across it is stretched a white fox, which occupies a slanting line from corner to corner.

Now. but perhaps not altogether very sensible, is the fur oapo of tailless ermine, which is very long behind, but which is cut much shorter in front, until by the time it fastens on tho ton of the left shoulder there is hardly anything to form a protection to tho front of the dress. Inside, about the region of the arms, there are clips, and if these are pressed together a kind of sleeve is the result. The neck is finished Kvith a shaped cape-collar of ermine with tails. This* too. slopes off to nothing at the ton of the loft shoulder. There is still keen desire for anything and everything which follows a slanting line, and sometimes the fur stole is draped l from one side of tho figure to tho other—an arrangement not making for much warmth; but a» there is a velvet coat underneath tho stole the wearer does not appear to feel chilly, i roin Franco come the following instructions as to how tho scarf of fur or the scarf of fur and chiffon allied, should be worn. It must be wide and very soft —tho broad tail or ermine especially. Then it is put over the chest, one end left longer than tho other. These are thrown over the shoulders, wrapping round the arms and crossing at the back. This leaves a V at the back, and! the space suggests a chilling blank. TJ'he longest end is brought round to the front and is fastened to the shorter end with a large jewelled brooch on tho right hip. Although not altogether convenient, it is a pretty style, for it gives tho figure a pretty fine, graceful and quite new. Fur is combined with chiffon in the construction of yet another wrap. The shoulders are covered with a stole or tippet of fur —moleskin, for example, or ermine. T,his meets in front, and from it depend long tends ot gathered chiffon falling almost to the edge of tho skirt, the great length being (broken bv wide bars of fur to conespond with the ’tippet. In the case of a cape of sealskin, tho vary long and full ends were of dark blue double chiffon, banded with seal and edged with a heavy fringe of black chenille! The muff, which is carried simultaneously, combines the fur and tho chiffon. Long Coats. — When of fur, as many of them are, they arc 'universally close-fitting and narrow round the ankle, and in numerous cases tho fronts are made rounded in shape, with a wide border of fur in colour contrast axiM important rovers tq match. Long coats of velvet 'are in great request, chiefly of black, brightened with a largo cane-collar and long tapering rovers of satin in some vivid shade such as royal blue, crimson, emerald, or mustard yellow. Ihese collars are outlined with a black silk fringe, and the side which wraps over is altogether wider and more important than tho side which fairly soon disappears. Cuffs of similar bright blue finish the sleeves. Shades of velvet especially attractive this winter include a deep crimson, a rich. Ibronzc, and a golden brown, while seagreen and moonlight-blue are very appropriate for evening wear, and there is a useful and rich raven’s wing blue and a becoming sapphire. Of tho greens, emerald is consnicuous, and there is considerate choice in purples, ranging through fro; dark prune to amethyst and faint mauve Panne, too, is in considerable demand fo all-enveloping coats, fur-trimmed for th most part, and a raised design of embossed velvet on a foundation of shot tinsel cloth is one of tho material wonders of tho present century. No matter how gay its hue. it is used "for many of tho evening coals, which cannot be too gorgeous in thoir effljct. Most of tho models are fearfully and wonderfully constructed, and the way panels of heavy bead work are inserted, and cascades of lace fall unexpectedly from sides and back, defy written description. Rounded fronts are given to most of them, and the shape is outlined by a border -erf fur or a so-called flounce of plain velvet. ;Tho shoulder line is a drooping one, and) the hands are slipped through a niche where the draped fabric is suggestive of a dolman-mantle. One vivid model of gold tinsel shot with cherry-coloured silk boro ?;>, raised velvet pattern of cherry colour. Half of tho back of the skirt was cut away, and the gan was filled in with a large panel of gold beads sot in close linos and) close rows, adding considerably to tho weight. The fur which trimmed this was Imperial sable. The Reversible.—

Not by any means has reversible satin disappeared into the background. Wide use is made of it in all its many forms and colour effects and. pattern combinations. But during the winter the reversible satin is hardly warm enough for the evening cloak. Therefore the manufacturers have turned their attention to the union of fine cloth and velvet. Worn one way, a coat of eeal-brown velvet had a largo softly-falling

collar of ohampagne-tintod cloth fastening over low at the waist with a big brown ornament with brown chenille dangling ends. The velvet sleeves had cuffs oi the light cloth.' In less than a moment this wrap could be turned inside out, when the garment evolved was of champagne cloth with collar and cuffs of seal-brown velvet. •No end of colour effects are in this way to be obtained, and most people who have tried the experiment of a dual wrap find it too usefulc to bo done without. Of course, there is much more work necessitated in the construction of the reversible wrap made of two materials than there is in the wrap made of fabric already woven in a scheme of two colours or more. The turned-over capo-collar, falling to a considerable depth over the shoulders and finishing in generous rovers in front, seems the most prevalent finish to the evening wrap-coat, and to the day wrap-coat, too. for the matter of that; but we are warned to be on the lookout for a revived Medici collar on wrap-coats—perhaps. too. on tailor-made coats, and possibly as well on dross bodices. The Medici collar has already appeared on the stage in “ The War God,” the wearer Being Miss Lillah M'Carthv. Kvorv time its size was moderate, and made no attempt to burv the ears. However, some little while will have to elapse before wo can chronicle the return of the Medici collar. There are too many devotees of the entirely collarlcss neck, and now many of the embroidered blouse lengths in silk and spunella and flanelle de soio are manufactured with the embroidered Peter Pan collar and cuff set as nart rf each length. This is something quite new. —Out of Date. — The collarless coat belongs to past history. No tailor is making his walking suit without some kind of collar, and no mantle maker would dream of turning put any more wraps with a hare lock about the neck. Among the fastest of the walking-suit collars are those slightly full, falling with the suggesting of a flounce about the shoulders, with front continuation arranged on the plan of a fichu. This capo-collar usually drapes itself to one side, and is bordered with a hanging silk fringe. One of the most dressy suits for an afternoon visit was made of reversible Ottoman silk, one side being blue of a rich peacock tone, the other side being the same colour two shades lighter; the darker side formed the costume, the lighter side the fichu collar and the cuffs and the panel at the side of the skirt hem. About the coat there was a trimming of peacock blue silk fringe, and the buttons which fastened it were of peacock velvet set in rims of silver. Generally speaking, the sleeves of tailor-mades are saamed in. If there is not a rounded oapeoolLar, there is a smal colar of the customary tailor pattern joining front rovers, which may be elongated square shape, or made with a sharp point about midway in their progress. Not uncommon is the doat which buttons smugly) up to the throat, finished with a high dress collar; if a few buttons are unfastened, a rever flap can be turned back —the rover is the chosen decoration of many blouses and dress bodices,—and if a few more are released the other side can be turned back, too. and then a pair of revers finish the front. Considerable choice is permissible, but_ it is essential that there shall be some kind of collar. The tailor no longer holds with ’the collarlcss coat finished with a band of silk braid. He aims at effect much more elaborate. While striped materials arc used, of course license will at times bo taken, until some of the tailor-made suits of striped fabric look quite ludicrous. It fioems almost sacriligious to s.ash about the lovely velvets and velveteens, _ which, of dark colour, carry a deep-set satin stripe of colour contrast, the stripe being light as a rule. One of the new model tailor-mades of black velvet was a very simple affair. The coat of three-quarter length was somifitting, and would have been quite plain hiicl it not bce.n for a ruffle round the neck and part of the way down the front made of black satin ribbon backed with white. Simplicity of effect is making a hard fight with over-elaboration, and the contrast is Widodly marked in every department of 1-css, A nearly plain coat and skirt has n its neighbour a suit with large collar ii'd revers, and unusual arrangement of 'abric. The simple house dress of satin uado all in one with Magyar _ bodioe struggles hard to look superior to its near neighbour of velvet and lace and chiffon all combined in wonderful way; many evening gowns of the most simple ninon, very =implv made, have to assort their charms in contrast with the over-el alx> rate gown of tinsel cloth or embossed velvet draped with sniral flouncings of bead-worked nets or diamante embroideries; while never before have contrasts boon so marked in the rooms where evening cloaks are exporod to view. —Light and Dark. — It is impossible to keep count of the number of evening gowns made of white fiatin, with over-dresses of coloured ninon. Some of these over-robes now are made after the style of a cut-away coat, so that, except for the IxxJico drapings. very little of the colour is visible from the front. The coat tunic of very bright blue surmounts monv a frock of white satin, its border line all round being a fringe of crystal; the back is finished with a sash end of bright blue velvet worked with glittering heads. Just the same style is carried out with emerald green ninon over white, and with warm oeriso over the same. All arc, of course, not cut away in the front, for a groat manv reach perhaps as far as the knees, and some even longer. constituting a coloured gown with a wide hem of white, which by degrees shapes itself into a side train surmounted by the coloured overdress’ Far more frequently now do the dressmakers choose to mount colour over white than white over colour when they are bringing out their evening dresses. The

aamo idea, but in altogether darker colours, is beginning to bo seen in the department of the smart afternoon dress. "Very new and very French is it to choose a skirt of black Liberty' satin, trim it with several rows of royal blue fringe, and to wear with it a tunic overdress of royal blue velvet, cut low in the neck, half-length in the sleeves, the skirt ending across tire knees in front and falling in a long tail behind. By the way. this velvet overdress must be fulled about the bodice and waist so as to provide ample material to prevent tlie skirt portion being tight. The waist will be finished with a girdle of plaited black-jetted beads, while gold net over white chiffon is used for the rounded yoke and collar and half sleeves. Of the union of black and royal blue no one seems to tire.

Neither dees anyone resent the prevalence of black and white, which is united in so many ways. A simple dross, and rather an effective one, was of ninon woven with half-inch stripes alternately black and white. It was a bordered ninon, and the border was a wide and handsome one of bright pink full-blown roses mingled with green leaves. This- border was made to form the Magyar yoke across the bodice and also the border of the dress, with the protecting hem of green satin. Distinctly smart, the waist was finished with a narrow folded belt of black velvet, widening out behind into a one-sided sash panel finished with a row of steel beads.

The one-sided draped lino—which is the chief charm of many dresses, skirt and blouse being arranged to carry out this scheme —is largely responsible for the manufacture of materials with a contrast border along one edge. Charming is the fine tulle in white or black, having a border at one edge of flowers, printed in with the material, in colours that arc numerous yet are not staring; net Bouncings bearing one edge of glistening beads picked out with a raised pattern of pretty ohenile in delicate tone are very for forming tho spiral line, while there is a lovely silk crepe in colours always light which is finished with a wide border-edge of satin in similar colour; this satin border ie patterned with design usually floral, and of colours that are many. Assuredly this must be a record period in the manufacture of material, fop every kjjnd o# fabric is wanted—thick and thin, useful and shortlasting, dark and light, bordered and plain, bead-sprinkled and velvet-embossed, colours that ore dark and colours that are light, and there arc no restrictions as to which material may be used with which other. Variety therefore is abundant.

Small Things That Please.—

A packet of wafer initial seals will give pleasure to the letter-writer. Each seal is of substantial paper with gummed back. Its face carries an initial set in a colour frame suggestive of sealing-wax. All colours are to bo had. Tho seal is, of ■oaqrA-,, to bo affixed to tho flap of the closed envelope. The electric pocket-lamp, about the size of a small flask, has long been appreciated as a handy possession. The newest development is tho attachment of a small* .mirror inset in one side of the lamp, so that in the dark the person who carries it can easily SC e if her face is clean or if Jior hair is tidy. Tho electric pocketlamp is an invaluable possession in the winter, as there is no need to fumble about for tho match-box and a match. Far more convenient is it to press the button of tho lamp, which usually is placed under the pillow.

Ono wonders whether there will ever be an end to collapsible and useful trifles in miniature. A metal box about the size of a cigar-case, measuring when closed half an inch in depth, is, when opened, found to contain a very useful clothesbrush of firm bristles—a useful thing to carry in the coat pocket and instantly available for a sudden emergency. Until now one has not considered the chrysanthemum to be a flower well suited to dress garniture. But now wo are beginning to wonder why it has been neglected. There are the most real-looking rprays of artificial chrysanthemums, mingled with asparagus fern, the pinkycream variety being particularly attractive. The flowers are loose-petulied, and make unite graceful sprays for the corsage. Charming, too, are the sprays of pure white velvet edelweiss, which look so pretty on the dress of the debutante, while they mingle well with bunches of dark mauve violets in the bouquets that are tucked into the afternoon dress and the coat. The scarlet pointsettia is much in demand for decorative purposes, and the scarlet holly berry, sometimes clustered round with dark green leaves, and sometimes set amid leaves of green and white,_i s used for table decorations. These brilliant touches of scarlet make special appeal on cheerless days.

Let the homo milliner try the effect of trimming a largo hat with butterfly wings made of a pretty metallic net, edging each one with wire to keep it shapely and firm, hour of these should spread themselves across a large shape, the body portion of the gay insect being formed of a padded roll of the material, the antennae formed of gold wire with beaded tips. The result will be liked, and there will be the halo of novelty surrounding it. A large and becoming shape of violet velvet was thus trimmed with gold metallic lace. Although simple, the effect was stylish. The choice of dainty neck bows knows no limit, yet in spite of the large selection in colours, made, of ribbons and tinsels, in the form of flower trails, the neat little flat bow of black velvet stands out pleasingly. It is small, and has no ends, consisting merely of two flat loops divided in the middle by a small buckle of brilliants or one of steel. The effect is worth a trial and the finish is a dainty one on a blouse or simple dress of white or colour.