FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 3018, 17 January 1912, Page 89

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

fFnoii Ocn Own ConnESPONnENT.) December 1. —Millinery Up-to-dato.— In spite of the tremendous variety possible concerning shapes and styles arid materials there is certainly one tendency that is more and moro Persistently asserting itself, and that tendency is height. Should the shapo bo rather a flat ono, the trimming will bo reared upward without limitation—if height of. crown does not happen to be (here, it must bo assumed ; therefor tremendous clumps of tall, nodding plumes vie with tall wings and feather fantasies in order to attain the desired object. Height is of prime importance; width is now quite a secondary consideration. No ono worries at all at the measjrencss of brim dimensions, but the fashionably lady is much distressed if the crown and the trimming do not tower upward to hoicht previously unknown. These _ tell crowned shapes are of fur of plainlystretched satin, of velvet, either plain o* easily folded, of silk which appears to bo folded round and round without any premeditated plan of campaign save that of towering above the tall dimensions of its neighbours and then ending in a couplo of jaunty little curly tails rearing like a pair of ears, almost too high in the air to be visible from the front view, as tho shape is still worn with a tendency to slope backward. Although height matters, and

width 13 a minor consideration, there aro still a number of hats to be had with brims

stretching out to the level of each shoulder, foreshortened back and front. On theso latter shapes trimming should bo high, and generally is, but there is no objection if preference is displayed for a spray of tho tiniest ribbon roses to be placed at tho base of the crown, utterly out of proportion to the dimensions of the shape. There are more millinery models in black and white, white and black, and of fur and velvet than there are of colour—that is, for dress occasions. Comparatively few seem to depend upon outside agency in tho matter of trimming. For instance, "nothing : is considered better stylo than to take a { band of ermine of 2in depth, fit this round I the head and forehead, and make it the j base for folds of black velvet which rise to ; a great height, split in the middle, finishj ing off with two mitred ears; if ermine is j not to bo had, white marabout offers itself ' as an attractive alternative, having the preference over the so-called tailless ermino ; which usually had its origin on the back of a rabbit. Tall-crowned and brimless

shapes of seal-musquash liavo an important duty, discharged apparently to tho satisfaction of purchasers; tins provides tho dark foundation; a whole ermine comes to the rescue to provide tho white addition, and often it is a pathetic sight to seo the I>oor, helpless little animal straining and stretching itself in a fruitless endeavour to get to tho top of that crown; it cannot do it, for inches intervene between tho ermine nose-tip and tho insurmountable peak of musquash. Some of tho most attractive whito and black models are partly of black velvet and partly of whito plush, or curly cloth or satin. The black velvet has its duty to perform by providing the brim Lining, for very few indeed could stand the intense whiteness so near the face. Tho crown and outside brim are of white, and the trimming will consist either of a pair of smart ears of black velvet or a clump of white or black osprey. Sometimes the brim is so high as it turns back that it towers above tho crown —this in one of the newest shapes. The upturned brim of black velvet rears straight off above tho face, reducing almost to nothing at each side; this is of black velvet, tho shape is of white plush, and the mount, which is placed right in the middle of tho shape, above the high front,' is a mixture of black and white marabout. A high front of sable surmounted by a coronet of Parma violets was the principal attraction of another specimen of this style, the crown being of brown velvet. For somo years past there has boon a total abandonment of whito in autumn millinery ; this season, for a change, there can hardly be too much whito. One of the most attractive models of whito felt reminded one of tho always-becoming Napoleon, viewod from the front; but there the resemblance ended, for the brim behind was allowed to widen out in a very becoming way. Black velvet turned up the brim in front, and tho trimming consisted of a single largo upstanding whito osproy tipped with black, springing from one sido of the crown, nearer tho front than tho back. Gorough aigrettes are considerod tho most satisfactory substitutes for tho rsprey. The Chief characteristic of the Henry II shape Of black velvet is its softly-draped beefeater crown of velvet which appears above the rolled-up brim, the only trimming being a whito ostrich feather which stands erect and then droops its long fronds over in a cascade. •> —Another Characteristic.— Next to height, we aro struck by tho comparative smallness and compactness of the winter millinery; tho shapes seem to hug tho head, though there are times when one wishes that more could be seen of the eyebrows. By degrees, though, wo aro seeing fewer and fewer of tho extinguisher shapes. Hats wide of brim have a crown more proportionate to tho shape and size of tho head. Black velvot is as much used for tho smart large hat as anythin else, ) the material stretched plainly over tho foundation; the decoration should bo er- J mine, large bows and ends of this fur finish- : ing the band which has encircled the crown. \ Failing ermino, a band of skunk or ono of ' sablo has the preference, finished at ono sido with a huge flower of choerful cerise ; colour—tho pointsettia or the vivid rose ! Bonnet--hats belong to tho opposite cate- j gory to the big-brimmed hat, for theso are ' made quite plainly, and closely fitting to tho head, finished at the sides with the wings which one sees on the Dutch bonnet; the whole thing will be of fur or velvet, with turned-back brim of lace. The bonnet . will have a future. i

This season there is a great deal of whito Ottoman silk used to cover hat-shapes, and this, too, associates itself with black velvet; fhe steeple crown will probably be encircled with flounce upon flounce of white silk fringe, and all else in tho way of trimming will be a eabochon ornament to hold back tho brim somewhere during its outline. Ornaments made of heavy woolwork set close to the crown are there to hold the brim in the desired position. Becoming is tho large hat of black velvet trimmed with a spreading bow of white faille silk edged with white silk fringe. A pretty effect is obtained by sewing a quarter-inch wido velvet, ribbon of black on to the brim of a white plush hat about three inches from the edge; the ribbon is eased on. and gives the impression of a flat ruche : the underbrim will bo of black Terry velvet. There i* no reason why the same on the white, or in two tones of one colour; r>n the white, or intwo tones of one colour; but thi! rage for whito-and-black seems to put all other mixtures out of consideration. Lots of flowers are wanted by milliners.

and very beautiful they are, too; but thoir use is more spare than formerly, tho desired effects being produced by yards of shot silk, fo.lds of velvet, and miles of ribbons, all of which are wound round and round in an apparently aimless way, towering upward and ever upward, and growing more and more tapering in tho ascent. Wonderfully made are the quill-shaped ornaments formed of ruches of frayed out silk, usually of shot variety, and some of theso culminate in a shapely mitred tip with "saucy" corkscrew twist. Fan-shapod bows and motifs arc rather frequently seen, and, of courso, all tho wings of this season rear themselves upward and finish in a point; there are none of the spreading wings of a year ago. —The Knock-about. —

For tho most part this is a smart-look-ing hat. It is made of fluffy beaver or of felt that can be dented at will, or of the more expensive Tyrolean velour, which is a cross between plain felt and fluffy beaver. The colours aro ail good; it is in the everyday shape that we find more colour choice. Tho shapes are of warm cerise, bright green, royal blue, beavers and greys, and in this era. when reversible colours characterise tweeds and satins and all the smart fabrics, it is only natural that the felt for hats should do likewise. The reversible-coloured shape, therefore, is immensely patronised. Sometimes it is worn without trimming. In any case it does not require much, for a nea-t bow of plumage or a ca-bochon of beads or wool-work or a small plumage mount does all that is wanted in tho way of holding up tho brim to the crown. Theso useful shapes are gaining height of crown, and they are close-brimmed. The gnome hat of flexible felt comes under the stylo of "jaunty," and so does the untrimmed "Paddy"; one meets both varieties very constantly, resting jauntily on a muchcurled little head, turned up at- rather a free-and-easy angle. There is danger of over-populaiity. but at present we all agree in admiring them when worn by the right type of girl. The high pierrot crown is suggested by some of the variations, and if the hat happens to be worn on a dressy occasion tho trimming will consist of masses of plumes, which are reared up behind and droop over tho top, thus adding still more to the already considerable height. There are many shapes, too, of velvet finished with machine-stitching. These can bo folded into small space, as they are collapsible and worn untrimmed. —Choice.— Once upon a time the artificial flower was made only of cambric. Then we grew excited over the lovely flowers with petals of silk" and velvet minglod, and we still are admirers of these. But now wo have flowers made of that horrid wool-work, also of fur, also of tufts of plumage, not to mention tho lovely flowers made of metallic nets and satin ribbon. Tho v.i.olmade flower is one of the horrors of the season, but it is now and it attracts. Its colours, too, are aggressively crude, notably the fuchsia trail made of wool in cerise and mauve, with loaves of green, built on a foundation of shaking wire. All at once we cannot become enamoured about the flowers made of fur, though most people will agree that the bkx-isom representing edelweiss or white clematis, made of ermine, is preferable to the to-called rose which is made of sable or the orchid which is of chinchilla. Flowers with pronounced petals aro the only ones attempted, and the large single flower has a better chance of sucoess than the flower composed of many petals. Beads are, of courso, trifles to be reckoned with, but they do not appear in their element when they arc used by the artificial florist.

—Still Going Strong.—

That is what, in vulgar parlance, the rnagpio union is doing in the matter of our .dresses. 34illiiiva;s are not by any means alone ill their decision to exploit the mixture of black and white or white with black. Attractive, indeed, is quite a new diress from Paris. Its prettilydraped boico, arranged over the arms something- like a cape, is of a substantial make of white mousiielino tie soie, the drapoty croasiiiig at the waist in the manner of a fichu, hnished thoro with a rose rr. ade of black velvet. Three parts of the ekirt are of the white, cut up in front in a sharp point. This tunio drapery is outlined with black fox fur, and is embroidered in a fern design with black and white silk beads and dull spangles. The underskirt is of black panne. The short sleeves are outlined with fur; the position of the rather high waist is indicated by a narrow piping of black velvet; the Vshaped vest and the sleeve-continuations are of fine white not with touches of black velvet aa pipings to finish tho edges. Exactly the same materials compose the largo hat—black velvet under the brim, a top of whito mousseluie, and a full aigrette of black as its only trimming. As the accompaniment of a simply-made dress of black silk velvet, there was an ermine stole. This latter was a novelty—at least, its treatment was new. Its. shap? was long and broad and flat. liach edge consisted of a wido strip of the taillces white fur; the middle section was a band of cherry-coloured panne veiled with ecru lace. Then at intervals, for tho entire length, there were stretched across the middle section 15 white ermine, placed six inches apart, like the steps of a ladder. These fur steps laid over the cerise were rather striking, and they had an upward slant. Tho stole was finished at each end with a thick fringe of black ermine tails. A bolero of ermine stretched plainly across the. figure back and front, with a row of tails dangling to the waist, is the chief attraction of many a smart, visiting gown of velvet or mousselme in black or colour, another line of the fur doing duty as an

j outline to the edge of the still indispensI able tunic. The black and white effect in furs is constantly appearing in some new arrangement, and ermine is associated with sealskin in the formation of stole, muff, and toque. Throughout, the white fur is used as a border line to the dark centre. The slanting lino which characterises so many of the current styles is frequently seen where furs are conoerned, particularly in connection with the muff, which seems to grow larger and larger. The large muff of tailless ermine is immensely liked when it has the tails arranged in a slanting line stretching from the leaf-hand bottom corner to the right-hand top corner. In the case of other furs there are not so many heads and tails used by way of ornamentation, the preference being given for fringes of chenille or silk. Perhaps one reason for this change may be that to use the head of the animal would immediately announce to the unknowing that the fur is not really what it purports to be. The skin may lend itself to particular treatment to resemble somewhat a really better class fur, but ihe head declines to countenance the deception; therefore it is not used. The latest model stoles all suggest the essentially giracoful pelerine of the early Victorian era, while the pelerine or tippet, too, is making a certain bid for popularity. This is a very small cape with a nigh collar—higher a.t the back than in .the front, —fastened by means of ornamental buttons and loops of silk braid. This little cape is a useful protection when just a small wrap is needed, and it need not always be entirely of fur. The velvet tippet with a fur border is quite smart, and in more ways than one the delicate marabout is introduced as a border to drawn satin, in the production of stole and muff sots. The tipnefc with cosy collar is a sensible finish to the collarless blouse and the low-cut nook of the walking' dress. —Necessary to Some.— Appreciation is being expressed by fcho feminine motorist for the latest petticoat which is to be included in her motor outfit. It is made of smooth kid which fits smoothly over the hips; the scalloped .edge is finished with button-hoio stitch. This petticoat can hs had in white as well as in colours, both light and dark. It is found warm and comfortable. In a new edition, the knitted wool coat is made with a lose stitch, through which the satin lining is clearly seen; this lining is sometimes white, moro often it is of colour. Then if thero is a sailor collar to finish the coat, this collar has a colourLordor to correspond with the lining. Some courage was needed to make a start with the dressy apron prepared for the afternoon, but by degrees its fascinations are making themselves felt. The apron is alwa\-s a very dainty affair, and may be classed, among the "little nothings" upon which so much depend nowadays. White ninon is rreponsible for many of the aprons, finished with a ruche of cream lace, worked in front with an embroidery of ribbon-worked flowers in a galaxy of delicate colours which harmonise prettily. It is anticipated that the modern apron will grow almost as expensive as that worn in the time of Queen Anno by tihe great ladies of the land.

Tho cclloirlcss blouse niay be all very well indoors in a nice warm room, but when .worn out-of-doors there must fee some kind of protection for the throat. Tho satin band, as hig*h as the neck can support, is much liked, edged at the top with a quilling of net or lace, and finished at tho lower edgo with a wide toby frill of pleated net or laeo which spreads itself out over the blouse.

Tho morning shirt blouse of stiriped flannel or flannel-de-roie is always neat; some of the French-made shirts axe finished "with a little breast pocket large enough to hold a handkerchief, and it seems characteristic of all these shirts to be finished at the nock by a high turn-over collar made of a sort of soft linen, fastened across by a pair of small, plain safety-pin brooches of gold or coloured enamel, one Brooch being worn at tho top to hold the sides trgother, tho other below, under the tie, will most likely be of knitted silk. RiCSon-made flowers are having a great vogue, and some of thorn aire intended to be worn at the neck instead of tho moro usual ribbon bow; trails of the small flowers <>,ro placed a.round the top and tho bottom of the velvet collar-band which some people always like to wear. Indeed, the ribbon-flower sterns to be without bounds as to its possible uses, and the woman who takes an interest in these trifles as applied to dress is odvisod to practise making them herself. Immense variety is one of the principal attractions. Tho passion for household things of cutglass finds (repetition in the button department. Whether for use or only for ornament tlio rather massive glass button sparkles and glistens; there is no ban on a colour blond either, for a button of colour and one of black, or a button of black and one of white alternate on the same dress- and tailor-made. Brandebourgs of satin are clover pretenders in forming supposed button-holes to correspond with the buttons. New ecope is hero otTered for the workor who is on the look-out for novel effects in black and white. Th addition to frlass, wo can buy heaps of pretty bu( tons made of metal or enamel, or painted wood, or covered with embroidery. Long rows of them aire used by tailors on coat and skirt alike, while tho sleeves aro not regarded aa complete without a procession of similar buttons at the back of the cuffs; revers, too, provide a useful background for tho line of buttons, presently if our dre*-.ees are made to fasten in front, the pretence of the attractive button will be doubly appreciated. Coming styles offer bho opportunity for a return to the more convenient front fastening.