FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 3014, 20 December 1911, Page 71

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

(From Our Own Correspondent.) November 3. —An Apology. — . Pockets, did you whisper? Well, no, and yes. Dimensions are so restricted that the space available hardly merits the name, yet even that little allotment is not to bo despised. Designers of dresses and costumes seem to have manoeuvred to give makers of handbags a profitable time, and consequently they are not going yet to give us a pocket in the sense that we understand the term. If we want to carry a latchkey, a bulky purso bulging most likely with coppers, the little note'slab and pencil which forms part of the equipment of every up-to-date woman, not to mention other trifles of importance, tnen we have to remain faithful to the roomy reticule

which may be an unwieldly-looking thing but which is undeniably useful". But there are occasions when the portmanteau bag is out of place, and it is then that we shall find time to express appreciation of the "pocket" which the dressmaker and the tailor are condescending to allow. In the evening we do not quite know what to do with our little handkerchief ; it is tiresome having to squeeze it up in one hand. We find that many of the apron-fronted panels laid on top of the dress proper have a little print turned up at. a height just convenient for the hand to reach. Th:s little turned-up portion is daintily caught with fancy buttons, and space is provided large enough to hold the handkerchief with its border of valued lace. Envelope flaps on day dresses have a habit of appearing unexpectedly during the course of a panel, and there is not the slightest difficulty in making this flap appear just where it will be useful for the handkerchief, on bodice or skirt. . . s^ Beyond a doubt, however, the cutest idea has originated with a tailor. A model suit of black velvet ftriped with a hair-line of green had its coat made to fasten over at one side, that duty beinpr apparently performed by the furry head of a black fox at the left side of the waist. Not so, though, for a button and buttonhole out of sight kept the coat together. The fox head was there in the dual capacity of ornament and use, for behind this head there was a space down which all tho fingers of one hand could easily be slipped, with the result that a handkerchief was brought to light. This, handkerchief was made of silk, and its colour was green, to correspond with tho stripe of the velvet. Left with two corners viewed- to the world it looked very smart. Well, although I cannot trace anything resembling our roomy old dresspockets, tho little contrivances suggested may be found to have some use. In these days of ''line''' and the minimum of material, we have to be thankful for anything that offers in the way of pocket, even if the apology is a meagre one. Meanwhile, bag designers and makers are not idle. Every week they bring out something a little novel to prevent our thoughts reverting to the once-so-useful pocket in the skirt. Velvet bag satchels with deep envelope flap are made in many colours, always to match the dress. The flap portion carries a decoration of beads or metallic embroidery. Long, twisted silk cords provide tho handles, and these are still so long f ihat the bag has to be slung over "vx*

shoulder. Bags of soft:, suede cover a. long range of artistic shades of colour and aa immense variety of shapes. Some of them | have a surface that looks like velvet. Fabrio bags made of moire are still to be had, while bead-workers are still keen to introduce new patterns and new effects in !* adworked reticules and purse-bags. Geometric patterns are followed by using beads of many colours, floral designs are tho charm of others, while the Watteau figures form I the centre-piece of others, and, should the ■ bag containing beads of so many hues ! not be liked, the alternative is the bag worked in glass beads of one colour, say, deep crimson, bright green, pale mauve or mother-of-pearl tintings. These scintillato and flash in the light, and they look very effective. Beards of strung- beads dangle in festoons from the bottom. Hero, again the handles are of cord, long or short | according to the size of the bag'. The reticule as round as a plate is rather a I favourite; if it ha* a flap this is of corresponding shape and size; but if made ««1 a metal frame, the bag opens at the top. —ls It Coming?— Most of us, I suppose, can remember what used to be called the "jacket bodice." Many years have passed % since there was even a hint of this in up-to-date styles, but at length one of the latest models stems to be reminiscent of it, yet at the same time there is an eocompanying touch demanded by current fashions. The opportunity is taken, also, of exploiting two materials in the construction, but both must be an exact match. Velvet and cloth combine, the alternatives being velvet and charmeuse, or charmeuse and cloth. The skirt can be of velvet—quite a plainly-cut skirt of suitable length, for the house, with a procession of small buttons down one side, these being silk-covered. The bodice, of charmeuse, is out with rounded neck and with Magyar sleeves, and so far is just like so many blouse bodices of the moment, but its novel feature consists in the fact that it is worn outside the skirt, and that it is finished with little rounded ends forming a specie* of basque; her« are four of these, two at the back and two at the front, but there is no reason why the piece should not be carried round the hips without a break; the coat-bodice is finished round the waist with a narrow stitched belt of silk or one of patent leather, just the thinnest possible strip to show the line of tho waist. The upper part of the neck consists, of course, of a rounded guimpe *f the almost invisible white net that is all the rage, and the lower sleeves are of the same. The dress.- is a very trim -affair indeed, and the bodioe, which requires littjja trimming, is usually fastened down on« side with buttons material covered. There is no objection to an embroidery design in flowers or berries decorating the front of the bodice beneath tha rounded decolletage. One of the most attractive of these dresses was carried out in silver £rey velvet as to the skirt, and of silver grey charmeuse as to bodice. A velvet upper to a cloth skirt is very useful and effective, and, of course, quite a number of other materials can be similarly associated. But care must be taken that the colours are an exact match. Contrasts would not be tolerated iu such a connection. Cloth and silk are used together for many dresses, so are silk and serge; but, again, the dressmaker is not left entire mistress of the situation, for there are tailor-made suits of two different materials. One, having its skirt of raven-blue cloth, banded at the edge with silk of the same colour, had the upper part of the coat of bilk, with basques of the cloth, these basques being carried up on to the coat in points tapering off just at t'ne line of the bust, the cloth being securely attached by several rows of machine stitching; the upper part of the sleeves were in one with the upper part of the coat, and consequently were of silk; the lower part consisted of a "cuff" of the cloth cut into a very deep point to match the basque ; one turned back. rever finished the coat, this being of a heavy silk em broidery which introduced many shades o t crimson, green, and blue. —On Top Again.— In a season such as this, when materials are so sumptuous and in variety so endless, it seems more than ever invidious fco select any one as heading the list. And yet one feels obliged to pick out velvet as towering head and shoulders above all the others. This is a fabric that is required in every department of dress—from the most regal evening gown. to the every-day tailor suit, from the most exquisite evening wrap to the long jacket which covers up the dress for the daytime; moreover, milliners cannot do without it, neither can the manufacturers of such trifles as handbags, boots, and shoes, while for blouses and for mere trimmings velvet is, of course, indispensable. Much can be done with a mixture of velvet and cloth for the house dress and the tailor-made, but two kinds of velvet can be associated with very good effect, as evidenced by a model shown me this week. The dress was a smart one, yet of dark oolour. It was partly of black velvet, and partly of the new velvet woven in a tweed i 'her ring -bone pattern, in shades of silver grey and black. The wide panels forming back and front of the skirt had scalloped edges, which rested on the inset hip-panel of the striped velvet, this panel widening out with the width of the skirt; the bodice had a high, belted effect of folded black velvet surmounted by an upper portion of the striped, which was responsible for tho half-length sleeves finished with cuffs of black. The rounded guimpe of silvered net was mounted on white chiffon, and the lower half of the sleeves corresponded. Simple in effect, the dress was captivatingly smart, and it would be equally suited to be worn at a wedding as at any afternoon "At home." . . ~ ~ , , Delightful in its simplicity and good style is the dress of black velvet, all in one, with rounded guimpe of cream net and half sleeves of the same, the velvet bodice front being worked with black silk and chenille leaves, a few of the same decorating the half sleeves. One of the latest trimmings • consists of embossed embroidery, which looks like bronze pokerwork enriched with peacock coloured darning. It decorated a dress of black velvet which was made with a high-waisted, wrap-over skirt with a narrow row of the embos&ed trimming on the hem ; the bodiee front had a short cut-away "Charles" coat held in position by one of the inch-wide pa\tent leather belts loosely fastened in front; thi e belt was of black, bearing along the middle a narrow strip of peacock-blue suede. The coat had a cape collar to wrap over in front, and this was surmounted by a collar of white hemstitched muslin, while little Quaker cuffs to correspond, tho underneath of the sleeve being finished with a line of patent leather. The back of thi s •model was cut all in one, and had a becoming arrangement- of gathered pleats held in place by the waist belt; moreover, the waistline at the back was further

marked out by two rows of flat "pearile in peacock tones, falling in prettily w.i the curve of the figure. Each row ct-i» sisted of 40 of these. These few examples take no note of tIK wonderfully elaborate velvet coats for the evening or the gorgeous evening gowns ol exquisite colouring, or the many yards oi white velvet which will bo required as the foundation for the evening dress, which has a veiling tunic of net and beads and bugles. Velvet-embossed ninon is one of the wonders of the winter season, and this will account for many of the most effective dresses.' In tlhe way of /wraps, if velvet has a rival it is plush, for this, with its longer pile, has perhaps even a richer effect. Built on loose and generous lines, an evening coat that at once caught the eye was of cherry-coloured velvet worked all over in a geometric pattern of small steel beads which half buried themselves in the pile, while a big stole of silvery grey fox formed collar and revers, fastening low down at one side oL the Cront; deep cuffs of the same fur made the garment complete. A model in plush was of terracotta having immensely wide and drooping ravens of moss-green plusih and cuff s to correspond; the skirt of this wrap was rounded in front and looped up with a large cabochon ornament glittering with crystals of green and brown and gold; one of the rovers was partly covered with a handsome embroidery of dull gold laoe. We find many day wraps and evening wraps finished about tibe neck with a whole fox, which usually follows the slanting line of the coat across to the left side of the waist; but the head, which there fastens, can be undone, and the fur may be thrown round the throat with the head hanging behind if something more in the nature of a muffler is wanted. Soft and supple silk velvets, many of them shot with contrasting shades, will be among the favourite fabrics of the immediate future, and if they are made up into wiraps *of any sort the lining is of shot satin and the trimming is of_ fur. On velvet gowns for the afternoon narrow bands of fur are often introduced, and the other trimming consists of collars and fichus of old real > lace. One of feho most striking ,species of the new velvets as that displaying a contrast of colours between the raised design and the edlken background; all sorts of daring and effective combinations are thus obtained. The "out velvet" of this season is as supple as silk, failing into the softest and most graceful folds, and this is an important feature now that there is a general tendency to loop up skirts in drapery of some kind and to dirape evening wraps so that the fullness falls with ease. Tailoring velvet often shows a coloured hair-stripe in contrast to the dark ground, and some of these lines are so fine and so near togetbeir that a shot effect seems to result. Green velvet is striped with tobacco-brown, royal blue has a stripe of red, black has mauve, and the coat, when finished, will probably have its oolla-r of mauve cloth; there is no limit to the colour combinations. The cloth costume trimmed with velvet po6sess.es no novelty, unless it happens to be in a particular arrangement of the fabrics; but a velvet suit with collar and revers and strappings of fine cloth i 8 something hitherto unseen. The colours must exactly match one another. Although black velvet ooate and skirts were so commonly seen a year ago, there are still many more ready to be worn, though it is possible that presently the new flour de velours satin will abortly have the preference, and keen competitors will be suits of the reversible clothe and ratine and zibelirie. In Paris there is now, so we are told, a special school of "arf tailors," who do little else than design and carry out most of the ultra pictiurcisque cloats and skirts, which lmake even 'ordinary serge quite wearable for smart occasions. The working tailor has all his cutters and machinists constantly "hard at it" turning out suits copied from the art sketches. —Neat, Not Gaudy— Every day people must have at least one everyday dress. For this fine serge is perhaps the most serviceable, and' __ the colour navy. This can be so easily made smart by judicious touches of ebeirrycoloured silk or velvet, and there is no reason why strips of patent leather, in black or navy, should not be introduced as well. These are wonderfully trim and effective, without being at all gaudy. The dress bodice will probably fasten down one sido from the shoulder—very many of them do —and there cannot be any objection to a piping here of colour-contrast resting on an half-inch strip of navy patent leather; a similar finish at the cuff of the half sieeve does not draw undue attention to the arm, while a very narrow waistbelt of it, with a strip of cerise-coloured suede running along the middle, decidedly enhances the appearance of a trim waist. At anyrate, whether New Zeaianders aire inclined to try the effect or not, they may take satisfaction in knowing that one of the most charming of simple blue serge dresses shown this week in one of the most important London shops carried out this union, and there is every reason to believe that the experiment will be justified by patronage. A touch of patent leather on velvet is not at all amiss either, even_ if only as a narrow belt marking the line of the waist which sometimes still seems to be almost of Empire height. The inchwide strip of the bright leather in black or colour is one of the most prominent belts in any collection of waist belts, and with its superposed line of coloured suede running along its length, the black patent leather belt seems to look well with _ a costume of any colour, provided its

tripe corresponds with the dress . >r suit. Placed fcesldte ithe wonderful trimmings, hand-embroidered Off machine made, carrying designs in beads and chenille and silt and ribbon and bugles, of oourse patent leather seems quite out of it, yet there are times when it is more in keeping with the simple dress than any variety of more pretentious trimmings. Probably it will be an instance of "once tried, always used.'' —Elaboration and Scintillation. — Generally speaking, of course, one would not refer to the difference in the same breath, for each has' its distinct sphere of usefulness, andi these are Poles apart. One cannot help standing still for a few moments to admire a wide embroidery worked on net so fine as almost to be invisible, although it may be black. Very new among patterns is the design of large bunches of daphne flower with leaves, shaded silks in pink being used for the flowers, and shade of green silk and chenille forming the leaves; clusters of these wax-like flowers run along the centre of a net foundation which is bordered with silk and chenille thread of varying tones of electric blue picked out with silver and gold. Insertions and embroideries of tarnished gold or dull aluminium of handsome pattern have that pattern picked out with a raised design in ribbon work of a medley of colours. This is apt to look a little tawdry. Trimmings of white net—very fine, of course —are worked with a massed bordering of clear crystal beads, the centre being embroidered with a design of flower-heads in ohenille of a certain colour or in shades of one colour. This trimming should be used on a dress whose colour scheme has something in common with the chenille flower. Wide flouncings of ninon or net carry a decorative border of beads along one edge, nondescript designs being evolved in colour schemes that are limitless. This flouncing-is used to form the swathed drapings that characterise so many evening dresses and follow .a slanting line across the figures; there is practically no fulness, though, if a certain amount of ease is lacking in the drapery, the wearer looks to be swathed round and round like a mummy. Lace flounces are similarly worn, and lace panels and trains and fichu bodice draperies account for the charm of many gowns. Valuable lace is seen appliqued" to the underdrew of satin veiled subsequently with bead-worked net; the side train of lace is an affair independent of the dress, and after it has trailed for a foot or more on the ground it can be draped round the back *and secured under a girdle on the o'ther side when the wearer is dancing. Fringes, of beads and bugles are conspicuous trimmings, and there is a new iridescent variety that changes colour with every movement: Chains of gold bugles and orystal beads mingle to form the festoons which suggest a Soutar as they drape across the bagice and continue over each shoulder. TheHGreek-sky pattern worked in fine gold and crystal beads, constitutes a very handsome border to many a robe length of white or faintlycoloured ninon. and the same pattern in jet bugles or silver beads enhances greatly the dress of black spotted net. Beaded soarves sparkle and scintillate, and the modern scarf is such an important thing as regards size and shape that the department where the newest is shown is lighted up .by the beads as they glitter, ■■ those worked in newest flame discs appearing to be on fire. —Worthy of Mention. —. There is a shoe and leather fair open this week, and as one firm alone is showing no fewer than" 300 tints of leather and suede, it does not look as if coloured footwear has had its day. Great Britain is considered to be amply holding its own in the trade, and although American boots are still imported and sold here the demand is nothing like what it used to be. On the other hand, English-made boots are finding patron© in America. No violent change is expected in the shape of the shoe for the coming year. The Cuban or thick-waisted heel is gaining in popularity. The remarkable run on ladies' shoes without any fastening shovvs no sighs of abatement. In boots there is a style in a black golosh with the upper of coloured leather, while black fronts with uppers of white are very frequently seen with black skirts, which are short and skimpy. These are- somewhat of an eyesore. Householders on the lookout for eiderdown quilts are being tempted with delicate tinners of white satin bordered _ with a ooloured satin overlaid with wide insertion of thick lace. These are most fascinating, but rather too delicate for the Londoner who is not a Croesus. One of the newest of bath-mats is white, made of wool, with colour worked in as a border; it is something which will wash. As a change from fancywork, some people are devoting their time to making these bathmats and door-mats, and plenty of skill is needed in the production of good, colour effects; coloured designs on paper are useful aids to the copyist. The millinery department is constantly offering now suggestions. Dainty are small berries, arranged in wreaths with fohage; the bsrries are of padded silk, and the coloure vary according to the berry; these are very light in weight. The suggestion of a berry, too, is obtained by working little knots of ooloured chenille at intervals along a foliage spray of frosted leaves. On the lookout for some new wsdk of rather _ a fanciful nature, the up-to-date girl will probably like to hear that she can work a spray of flowers on to her hat of fine felt; she will use coloured chenille for the flowers, and shaded ribbons of green or autumn tints for the leaves, veining them if she likes with gold thread. Uncommonly pretty are some of these designs, whether the pattern consists only of a single ma.r-

guerifce with a few leaves to pinch back the brim, or whether it is a more ambitious affair pretty well covering the side of a hat. Hats of various kinds have previously been decorated with hand-painting, but entirely new is the idea of embroidering the trimming by hand on to the felt or velvet shape. If judgment be used the result is quite pleasing. Toques of shot silk Jaid on in generous folds are very sensible' for London; their trimming consists of an important quillshaped ornament standing high at one side. This is made entirely of the same silk, pinked out and' laid thickly on in little quillings. Ostrich feathers are indeed possessions; the fronds are very long and thick and drooping, though there is little suggestive of curl; some are laid flat _on to a large shape; others are made to rear themselves erect against the tall conical crown, and others, again, are, placed so far at the back that they appear to be parting company from the shape they are supposed to trim. "Fur" feathers are not made of fur at all, but are ostrich plumes dyed just to go with certain furs. For instance, the "chinchilla" feather is an ostrich plume displaying white, grey, and black; "mole" feather is one dyed to the colour of moleskin ; "'seal" feather is a coloured ostrich that will accompany the coat of sealskin or the fur-sot of bear. or skunk; it is a dark brown. A black and white arrangement is the accompaniment of ermine, and the arrangement is clever, for each frond is black at the tip and near the bone, and is white in the middle. Violet is regarded as the colour of the season and is considered to be the only rival to the black and white mixture. There is no lethargy among materialproducers. To a list already very long there has just been added another fabric for evening use. It is of soft satin for two-thirds of its width and crepe for the rest, and very often there is a colour contrast between the two. The material is made up on the cross, and the two surfaces —one so bright, the other much duller—seem to emphasise the lines of the figure in a clever way. Charming for the dress of the debutante is white ninon with a border of satin stripes mingling with a printed floral pattern of big pink roses mixed with clusters of small blue hydrangea flowers; pearls of blue and pink encircled with tiny seed pearls of white can be used with daintv effect to outline the decolletage; the folded waistbelt formed of the coloured border should come high in corselet style, and over the whole dress would be a tunic of fine gold tinsel net bordered with Morocco roses or pink and blue, weighted at any corners or points with tassels of gold bullion. A French chronicler tells_ us about a new sleeve which is called 1 the "cooking sleeve." The first part stops about midway down the upper arm, and another sleeve, long and tight to the wrist, is there joined on; as this long and fitting addition is usually of a contrast and not infrequently white, it suggests the half sleeve worn by the housewife who goes into the kitchen to bake. It dees not sound particularly attractive. When comfortable coats are worn, the dress bodioa is pretty sure to consist chiefly of chiffon or net or lace; this is rather a happy idea in the case of a velvet dress, as it obviates the difficulty of wriggling into the coat when sleeves are of velvet; the struggle does no good to the dress sleeve, and) it very quickly tears the silk lining of the fur or cloth wrap-coat. Nearly all the smart dresses of this winter have the sleeves and upper part made of lace or chiffon or fancy net or tinselled net, the dress material —velvet or satin or silk or cloth or serge —being carried high above the waistline and. cut out in becoming points on the upper transparency. More and more, as the season advances, will the dress underneath the dark wrap coat »be of Some bright colour of fine fabric. A rose tucked into the waistbelt is very usual, especially as a finish to the evening frock. Hitherto it has been worn at the left side; for a change, the right side now has the preference; this is very French, so it is sure to be copied. Artificial flowers ace indeed wonderful things; the Malmaison to be tucked into the coat with attendant foliage looks just as much alive as does the carnation at the end of a very long stalk that is intended for table decoration or as the hand-made chrysanthemum in white, yellow, goldenbronze, or pink that looks so handsome in a tall vase; in each case the foliage is copied. as faithfully as the blooms. If preference be expressed for the incurved chrysanthemum it is instantly brought forth; should the Japanese variety be asked for, it is instantly produced. These big artificial flowers cost about 9d each, and last for many months, whereas a big, living specimen costs as much, and is shabby after 10 days. Some of the artificial flowers look more lifelike than do many of the cut blooms in the perishable department of the big stores. 'Glass buttons are available for anyone who likes them; they make a change, of course, but for everyday suits, buttons of pearl or enamel or coloured horn seem more appropriate. The glass is coloured to meet all requirements of material. Silk braid, woven in rather an open pattern, makes a neat trimming for the tailor-made, laid over a colour which imparts a cheery note.