HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 2978, 12 April 1911, Page 12

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Br J. Gebbie

THE WEATHER, ETC.

A few days' warm rain, combined with the warmth in the soil, has had a magical effect upon vegetation in North Otago the whole district lias changed from the dry, parehed-up look of a dessert, and now wears a spring-like appearance. If the mildness and warmth continues much longer it will be particularly injurious to vegetation. Moisture, combined with warmth, makes plants grow; cold and wet produce a contrary effect; or, in other words-, the warmth causes the plants to develop their cellular tissue, rapidly, cold and wet destroy cellular tissue, and make the succulent parts of plants drop off. This, indeed, is the ordinary process of Nature, ae, by an excess of cold moisture, the leaves and green parts of plants decompose, and are reduced to that state in which their elements are most easily obtained when they are wanted to form the fcod of other vegetables. SPRING GARDENING. The style of gardening known by this name has, in a wide sense, been for ages a fact in British gardens, as nearly all the flowers of our gardens were spring flowers, but what is now alluded to is the system of bedding out spring flowers. As scon as the summer flowers have passed out of bloom in autumn, the spring flowers that have during the summer been growing in the kitchen garden or any spare piece of ground take their places. Considering the variety of material available, it is surprising that the practice of spring bedding is' not more generally adopted. Spring gardening, as carried out in British gardens, may be rather an expensive luxury for .the general amateur to indulge in. A great number of the plants used for spring gardening are easily raised from seed, and no amateur need be without a stock. Now, and not spring, is the time to prepare the plants—the spring the time to enjoy them. In places where a late autumn bloom of bedding plants is of no consequence, or where they have lost their beauty earlier than is usually the case, or where there are empty or unsatisfactory beds, the planting may be commenced this month, but generally the following month is the time tor the chief planting. Where there are beds of bulbs many of these spring bedding plants should be used for carpeting the beds, and, when in blcom, add greatly to the beauty of the display. The white flowering A.rabis makes a good carpet for hyacinths, tulips,' or narcissi of all shades of colour. It is easily raised from seed, and also propagated from cuttings. The flowers are white, and somewhat resemble a small single stock. There is also a variegated form which associates well with" dark tulips or hyacinths. Aubrjotias, of which there are now several varieties, are charming dwarf-growing plants, indispensable for spring bedding, with varmine or purple flowers, very useful for carpeting, edgings, and rockwork. Pansies and viola® are the most continuous blooming of spring flowering plants coming into bloom early, and continue in full beauty for many months. The white, yellow, and blue tufted pansies or violas a.re the best adapted for this style of gardening. For lines, ribbon-work, or edging of beds they are indispensable. The show and fancy pansies from a good strain are very effective in the spring garden. Wallflowers, for supplying colour and fragrance in early spring, are unequalled, and worthy of a place in every garden They should be planted either in beds of one variety or a careful arrangement of colours to harmonise with other surroundings. The following varieties have proved valuable for bedding purposes:—Cloth of gold, golden yellow; Eastern queen, salmon red; harbinger, dark brown; and Linnaeus, white. This variety is grand for planting in beds with the dark-coloured sorts. Many of the forget-me-nots are favourite flowers for spring, the colours contrasting favourably with most bulbs. As a setting for tulips they are well adapted, especially the dwarf varieties, which allow the foliage and stems to be seen to advantage. Primroses and polyanthus are favourites of spring, an.d' justly so, for few of our spring-flowering plants offer so wide a range of colour, together with fragrance of bloom, as may be found in a good strain of these. For producing a mass of flowers in late spring few plants excel the silenes. They are effective garden annuals, forming compact round bushes about 6in high, which are densely covered with flowers of white, pink, or red. There are many other spring bedders, such as Alyesum saxatile. single anemones, etc., with which the intelligent gardener or amateur who, having a progressive mind, may leave the beaten track of the Old Country gardeners, and produce beds which are novel, original, and attractive. LIFTING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Those who wish to save the labour of growing chrysanthemums in pots all the year round may do so and still enjoy them in the greenhouse by having thorn grown in the open ground' during the summer, and as the- colour of the bloom shows, and before they are injured m by frost, take them up, transfer them to pots, boxes, or buckets with holes in their bottoms to allow waterto escape. The operation is a simple one. A few days before the plants are to be lifted the soil is to be firmly trodden round each, then a good watering is given and

a spade thrust well in, all round, aind about 6in away from the sterns, thus cutting off any roots which may be outside the square or circle of roots and soil made. By doing this the cheek given to the plants by the cutting of the roots is spread over a period, and, consequently, is not so injurious to the plant. The pot boxes or other receptacles must have sufficient holes in their bottoms to allow water a free outlet, each hole being covered with a large piece of broken pot. Over this place a thin layer of soil, and the plant is then lifted with a good ball of soil and roots, and placed in the pot or box, working the soil well down into all cavities, and make the whole moderately firm. Providing the natural soil is of a moderately open character, this will answer very well, but if it is at all sticky it must bo "rendered more open by the addition of sand, road sweepings, or old mortar. After the plants are placed in their position, the k>il and roots must be thoroughly saturated with water; afterwards water will only be required at long intervals. When potted up keep shaded far a few days. Plants treated in this way will be found to bloom strongly and beautifully. CLUBBING IN CABBAGES. The clubrcot of the cabbage is caused by a fungi, the spores of which are in the soil, and, under favourable conditions, germinate and make their way into the root of some plant belonging to the cabbage family. When the paraisite has entered the root, it sets up irritation, causing a flow of sarj towards the infected spot and an increase of the cells in that part, so, that a large "club" is produced. The cells of this part become filled with the organism, which derives its nourishment from the plant, and eventually the roots decay, setting the spores (into which form the pest has now gone) free in the ©oil ready to infect other plants of this order. The spores are able to live for at least four years in tho soil. To kill the spores, quicklime applied in the autumn is probably the best thing. As far as possible avoid growing any of the cabbage family on. the infected ground for at least four years. It is said that the most usual time for infection to occur is during the first six weeks of the life of the plant. Plants which are affected should not be planted.