WAKATIPU TO TE ANAU

Otago Witness, Issue 2975, 22 March 1911, Page 88

WAKATIPU TO TE ANAU

A RECENT TRIP. No. 11. THE GREENSTONE CAMP. •We had a refreshing night's sleep, and were astir early in the morning, which fortunately broke fairly clear. The mist which usually hangs over the river was not very thick, and the sun's rays quickly dispersed it. Before making a start a photograph of the camp and the party was taken, our humourist photographer requesting the assistant guide to " Move that horse out of the road; he's got his gable end right in front of the camera." The first part of our track lay through a. nice stretch of beech forest, principally the variety Menziesii, popularly known as white birch. We emerged from the bush on occasions and traversed the wellgrassed fiats of the Upper Greenstone. The first of these we had met prior to reaching the Greenstone camp, and throughout they seemed admirably fitted for ne'e as a home and breeding ground for fallow deer, which would have good cover in the adjoining bush, and would add to the attractiveness of this charming piece of country. We continued our way at a steady pace, having twice crossed the Greenstone on the back of one of the horses. Forest track predominated, and as we advanced the beech trees became plentifully interspersed with the plagianthus lyalli in full bloom. I know I ought to give its new name of gaya, but my pencil involuntarily held on to the title given it by the older botanists. It may be that "the scientists are right in transferring it to a new class, but if I accept the change it shall be with lingering regret and some protest. To me this charming tree is still the plagianthus, or ■ mountain ribbonweod. The trees have been in splendid bloom, and some of them in the shadier spots still are so. The majority of them, however, have scattered their pure white blossoms on the track, which was CARPETED AS IF FOR A WEDDING. We had boiled the billy at midday among the beech trees at the edge of the track, with a flat stretch of grass land in front of us, and, as is usual on such expeditions, we did the amplest justice to the "smoked Norwegians" and other tinned luxuries which are liberally dispensed by our guide. As for the pannikins of tea which were disposed of—well, it would not do for me to sum them. up. There is a thirst begotten of this splendid tramping through the forests and sylvan fdades of our picturesque and beautiful and in the assuaging of which drawing room cups could play no part. The polite "No more, I thank you," of the drawing room would be entirely out of place if it were heard in reply to the suggestion of "Another pannikin of tea?" But there is, of course, a limit to all things, and we finish our pleasant meal, carefully extinguish the fire, and set out rested and happy. The afternoon passes quickly. At 3 o'clock we have reached LAKE MACKELLAR, which comes into view through the branches stretching between the party and its shore. Its dark brown water is disturbed by the light wind which is blowing, and curling, white-tipped waves roll in constant succession on the shingly beach. The aneroid registers 2350 ft above sea level, a rise of 1300 ft since we left Elfin Bay. The photographers have been busy and have got views of the lake from the, best vantage points. Their work finished, we push on over the track to Lake Howden, where is situated our camp for the night. There is a great similarity in the vegetation—fagus menziesii predominates, interspersed with the mountain ribbonwood, which continues to scatter its cherry blossom petals on our path. The celery-topped pine (phylloladus) is occasionally in evidence, and there- are to bo seen the usual plants common to the undergrowth of the New Zealand bush. At 5 o'clock a welcome shout announces that LAKE HOWDEN CAMP is in sight. Some of us have just comEleted half an hour at a four-miles-an-our pace, as we had been lagging somewhat, and desired to satisfy ourselves that we were in good enough form to do a fair spurt. We are perspiring freely, and would have liked, to enjoy a dip, but the bottom round the shore looked too soft to be attractive, and we contented ourselves with a good wash in a stream which ran out of the lake, and, thus refreshed, we tfslt that we could do justice to the usual excellent camp meal for which Edgar was establishing a reputation. While this was in preparation our guide suggested that those of us who did not feel too tired should ascend a wooded slope to the right of the lake to a height of about 350 ft, whence we should obtain a fine view of the HOLLYFORD RIVER AND VALLEY, stretching right through the mountains to Martin's Bay. The evening was fine, and after a hurried pannikin of tea four of the party thought they were in good enough form, to do a little more walking, especially with the promised reward of a fine view of the surrounding country. The track through the bush was interesting, and new forms of vegetation were met with, including a fine patch of ourisia macrocarpa growing in great luxuriance near a shaded watercourse. Threequarters of an hour's climbing brought us to a little break in the bush, and here

A GLORIOUS PANORAMA presented itself. In the foreground across the valley of the Holly ford rose Mount Christina with its snow-crowned summit; stretching far away to the west, the Koliyford River made its way, flanked on either side by great mountains whose snowiields and glaciers glistened attractively in the soft evening glow, and In the f«r distance stretched skyward the great peak of Tufcoko in the Clodden Valley, near Milford. The Hollyford in the far distance took a turn to the north, and some high ground at

the foot of the valley prevented our seeing the ocean waters beyond. Had time permitted our continuing a little further on our track we were informed by Edgar that we should have seen the coastline and the ocean. We were amply rewarded however, by the splendid view we had of mountain and valley, flowing river and glistening snowfields. The deep gorge of the Hollyford had an almost sinister aspect as the shades of evening wrapped it in sombre gloom. It seemed a fit repository for the sad tales of accident and misadventure with which it is associated in the days of the ill-fated settlement at the coast which ended in the ruin of the pioneer settlers who for a number oi years hoped against hope and finally gave up the unequal struggle. Kelly, our guide's philosophical assistant, a noted walker over the mountain tracks of the Wakatipu district, and a good and useful companion, told us one of these tales of the Hollyford, in the earlier days of Martin's Bay, which for tragic interest it would be hard to beat. It was the STOHY OF A YOUNG SURVEYOR, whose work at the time lay in the Holjyford Valley. At a spot near where Pyks's Creek joins the Hollyford he was in his canoe on the river when he had the misfortune to lose an oar. He took off his clothes with the object of swimming to a low, sandy island in the river, intending, no doubt, to guide the boat to the shore and there beach her. The boat was, however, carried away from his grasp, taking with her his clothes, and he had to swim to the little island and land on it naked. Here he was beset with crowds of sandflies, which settled on his body and drove him almost distracted. Their attack continued unabated notwithstanding his efforts to sweep them off his body, and in desperation he plunged into the Hollyford and swam to the bank. This he reached in safety, but it is supposed he was again attacked by the sandflies and sought refuge from the weather and his enemies. And that was the last that was heard of him at the time, though search was made. But the tragic story was in due time to be unfolded, for years afterwards the cave wms found, and in it the dried up body of one of the many victims claimed by the wild fastnesses of our rugged interior. Peace to their ashes! Martyrs to duty and to the heroic struggles of the early pioneers of our beautiful and prosperous country. We sped back on our track in the fading light of a mild autumn evening, with misgivings, however, of a change brewing in the weather conditions. This Kelly had predicted, for had not the morepork on the preceding night, and again during our walk rear Lake Howden, uttered his plaintive cry? A sure token, as Kelly said, that rain was near. It may here be said that the divergent track over which we had just passed leads to the Lake Harris saddle and the Routeburn, so that it is quite feasible to make a round trip from Paradise to Elfin Bay by way of the Routeburn, the Lake Harris ■ saddle, and the Greenstone, or vice versa. It is a trip that should in time become popular', for it is not too taxing for anyone possessed of ordinary walking powers, and it has comfort of no mean order in the excellent huts and the cosy sleeping bags that await the tired pedestrian on his arrival in camp. It is," of course, essential that a guide should be taken if these comforts are to be enjoyed. Our principal photographer did not accompany us on our little side expedition. He had mounted one of the packhorses, which we had christened " THE CAMEL " on account of his great height and the dromedary-like appearance he presented when Ms load towered over the paqk-sadldle he carried. The photographer took "The Camel" up a steep track which was to be our road on the following morning, and at the summit had a fine view, somewhat similar to that of the scene presented to us. He returned to camp almost simultaneously with ourselves, and promised us a " breather " when we resumed our. walk on the following morning. We sat down to the usual excellent oamp meal, among the items of which may be enumerated green peas, tomatoes, and other little etceteras which added zest to the principal articles of diet on our plates. Supper over, an hour or two were spent in camp-fire tales and humourisirus, we got into our sleepingbags again amidst the usual merriment, and were soon lost to the prophetic wail of the morepork, the rustle of the wind in the trees by which we were surrounded, and- the other sounds of the night. The morning of our third day out broke ominously. The mists were clinging to the mountain sides in dense masses, and they hung low in the valleys. We descended to the creek and refreshed ourselves with a copious deluge of water on our faces and arms, and we dipped our feet into the cold water and prepared them for- the tough work they _ had to get through before we should again make camp at Murcottburn. Heavier packs were strapped on to our backs, for here we had to part with the horses and carry everything that we required until we reached the head of Lake Te Anau on the following night. The principal photographer was left behind, for it would have been useless for him to proceed with any intention of securing photographs until the weather cleared. Kelly also was left to help him with his heavy camera and plates, and the rest of the party said good-bye and took a last look at Lake Howden and its camp.