ASCENT OF MOUNT M'KINLEY

Otago Witness, Issue 2927, 20 April 1910, Page 19

ASCENT OF MOUNT M'KINLEY

DR COOK AGAIN DISCREDITED. NEW YORK, April 12. An Alaskan expedition, consisting of throe experienced' mountaineers, reached the summit of Mount M'Kinley, but found no traces of Dr Cook's alleged ascent. Dr Cook's composure received- a severe lahoek by the publication in the New York 'Globe last October of an amazing affidavit by Mr E. M. Rarrille, Dr Cook's companion in his alleged ascent of Mount M'Kinley in Alaska, the highest peak in North America.. Mr Barrille affirmed that at no time did he and Dr Cook get nearer than a point 14- .miles away in an air line from the top of Mount M'Kinley. He stated that Dr Cook's book on the conquest of Mount M'Kinley contained fraudulent pbotocraphe, and that Dr Cook ordered him to ' doctor" his diary and so make it appear that they actually did reach the summit. Mx Barrille made the affidavit before the Notary Public of Tacoma, Washington, on October 4. lit says: —" Dr Cook authorised me to step the diary on September 12, 1906, the day when he was supposed to have reached the summit. He had not then ascended more fchan 9000 ft, and did not attempt any further climbing. On September 15 we turned back and reached the foot of the glacier the next day. Cook then directed, me to change the entries in the diary from Seitepmher 9 to September 12 (inclusive). The entries from September 12 to 16 were written at the first camp, on the way back, on the night of September 16, and those from September 16 to 18 at the last camp. The entries from September 19 down to the end (November 9) -were mine. The place where Dr Cook directed me to stop the diary was at or near the point where he claims to have reached the summit. He said that the same conditions existed there as on the top of the mountain. To the best of my recollection Dr Cook said, 'We will back down and get a picture of this.' We both went back to where the bags had been left, and Dr Cook took an American flag out of one of the bags and, Handing it to me, sent me back to hold the flagon the end. of an ice-axe. Ho then took a photograph of the scene, and the picture is shown facing page 227 of his book, 'The Top of the Continent,' under the title, ' The Summit of Mount M'Kinley.' I was with him continuously, and the nearest point reached was at least 14- miles' from the top. Dr Cook told me when the picture was taken we were not more than 8000 ft high. The "drawings on page 204 are entirely false. We did not buiid any snow-house on the trip, although the ffiary eayis so, nor did we shake hands or go through other similar ceremonies as stated. The picture on page 226, 'ln the silsnt glory of snowy wonder, etc.,' was taken from two to three hours before the flag picture, one mile to the north-east. On September 9 Dr Cook asked me if I was willing to stay with him. I answered ' Yes,' and he replied, ' I will Bee you' get £4O extra.' " A telegram from Seattle stated that Mr IWialfber P. Miller, who acted as photographer to Dr Cook on his Mount M'Kinley expedition, had also taken an affidavit corroborating Mr Barrille's statements. He said he had photographs and maps fully confirming the latter's account of what was actually done. These charges stirred Dr Cook to action, and a few days afterwards he announced that he had arranged to pay the expenses of an expedition of friends and foes to go to Mount M'Kinley and recover the flag and records he left there. He asked Mr Anthony Fiaia, the Arctic explorer, and Professor Parker, of Columbia University, one of his critics, to lead the party. About a fortnight later, in the Opera. House at Hamilton, Montana, Dr Cook faced 'Barrille. After many hours' wrangling this audience passed a resolution declaring its absolute confidence in the veracity of Barrille. To the surprise of his auditors, Dr Cook Bta;rted to lecture as usual on his NorthPole experiences. Not until that was at an end did he refer to Barrille's charges. (Dr Cook spoke in terms of the most Chris--tian-like charity, declaring that he harboured no spirit of revenge or malice against the "misguided guides whom bribegivers only too successfully tempted." All h& wanted was fair play until be discovered and brought to justice the men who "burned il^ ; - money in the flame of inNo sooner had he finished than the giant figure of Barrille sprang up in the centre of the hall demanding the names of the bribegivers. " j rented this opera house tonight You can rent it to-morrow," was Dr Cook's reply. The explorer was edging towards the door when Mr Crutehfield, lawyer representing the guides Barrille and Pxintz, peremptorily summoned him to meet hie clients in open debate. " This is «o tribunal," Dr Ccok answered I deelm* to enter into a controversy.

Excitement was now intense. One of the audience rose and hastily submitted a resolution that the meeting absolutely discredited all the statements mad© by Dr Cook. This' was followed by pleas from various parts of the house for fair play. Then BarrilLe mounted the stage, exclaiming, "Cook's claim that he ascended Mount M'Kinley is false." Dr Cook retorted that Barrille's statements were falsa. "Why den's you swear an affidavit that you scaled Mount M'Kinley?" shouted Barrille. The challenge wa.s instantly accepted, Dr Cook swearing that he ascended Mount M'Kinley with Barrille, and deposited records on the summit. After that the dispute continued with even greater acerbity until midnight, when the meeting passed" the following resolution:—" We people of Hamilton and Eavillo counties, after listening to the charges and countercharges exchanged between the parties in the M'Kinley controversy, do declare our firm belief in the veracity of Eclwand Barrille and Frederick Printz."