A TRIP TO THE HOMELAND.

Otago Witness, Issue 2927, 20 April 1910, Page 87

A TRIP TO THE HOMELAND.

' By a New Zealander. Our next port of call after leaving Najiles was Marseilles, a French city said to have been founded by the Greeks. It is now one of the busiest seaports in France. In Marseilles we spent a few hours interestingly and pleasantly visiting the churches—one particularly line one I considered a miniature Notre Dame. Leaving the French port, a few hours’ steaming found us approaching Gibraltar, all on board being interested. in getting their first look at the famous Rock which dominates the narrow entrance to the Mediterranean. Its strategic importance cannot but impress itself on one. Of course, everyone has heard or read of the Gibraltar monkeys, a variety found in no other part of the world, so that I need not say much on this head. An influential resident to whom we had letters of ;ntroduction met us on his landing, and through his courtesy we were able to visit many places not open to the average tourist. We were shown over the waterworks, consisting of two reservoirs roofed over. They are kept full of water by means of condensers and rain water. A visit to the army and navy stores impressed us with the preparations made to supply the wants of the soldiers and sailors in readiness for emergencies. Piles upon piles of foodstuffs and clothing, barrels of rum, boxes of tobacco are kept in the huge bomb-proof building, not to speak of medals and decorations. The officials in charge impressed us as being shrewd and alert, indicating that John Bull exercises good judgment ill the choice of those entrusted with the keeping 'of his strongholds. After enjoying the hospitality of our friend and his kind wife we took a cab to the landing place, where we arrived just in time to catch the last tender. A fine old ruin of a Spanish port opposite the landing place serves to remind us that the Don once ruled here. There are people of many nationalities in Gibraltar, and some parts of the town have an ancient and foreign appearance; but everything about the docks and harbour seem to be new, massive, and British, and intended to last a thousand years. Among the passengers who joined the vessed at Gibraltar was a man from Morocco. He was dressed in the picturesque garb of his country—red turban, tunic of the same colour, yellow tights, and .salmon-coloured stockings reaching above his knees. He had been educated in Paris, and could speak English and many other languages. In the course of conversation he informed me that the people of Morocco were quite capable of managing their own affairs without the help of the French, Germans, or English. Venturing to remark that some of their dealings with outsiders was not in accordance with the customs of civilisation, he replied that “Morocco could mend her ways as other countries had done.” He assured me that the impression about Morocco being rainless was a mistaken one—that the country abounds in running streams, and that the soil is very fertile. Arrived at Plymouth, many of the passengers were landed there, while we, with the rest, went on with her to Tilbury Docks. We had some experience of fog, however, .in the way which brought us to a standstill. All around us we could hear the sounding of foghorns, syrens, etc., and when the fog rolled away we found ourselves surrounded by shipping, with the white cliffs of Dover in the distance. In London, where we were told that at the time there were at least one million visitors, we ivere fortunate in obtaining moderatelv good lodgings for 12s a dav in Bedford place, near Russell square, and canvenient to the British Museum, where I meant to spend a good deal of time. A tube railway station is near the Museum, and descending bv a lift some 130 ft into the bowels of the earth one can bo whirled along by train to any part of Loudon. I was surprised to find that I was not so astonished by what I saw in London as I expected to be; perhaps because I had read so much about the metropolis. Three days’ cruising about on the ton of ’busses wives one some idea of what the city it like. We. of course, paid a, visit to the White City, which merited the praise bestowed upon it. For its size New Zealand did as well as me*;, parts of the Empire, but it appeared as if more suace had been allotted to it than was required. Canada made a. fine display. and at the time appeared to he the mother’s pel daughter. Even the musichalls wave the dutiful daughter an occasional pat, hut one never heard a word about Australia or “God’s own country.” After a fortnight’s stay in London, with about one hour’s sleep out of everv 24, a run into the country seemed essential if we ever hoped to return to New Zealand again. From 3 o’clock in the morning until 2 o’clock the following morning there is no cessation of the noise in London. Living in a street w'here there is little traffic does not improve matters ; in fact, the hollow roar one hears in the distance seems to be more annoying than when it is close hv. It was with a feeling of relief that I found myself on the Great Western railway. hound for the ancient ritv of Exeter. Rural England was a- revelation. The country as far as- the eve could reach appeared as one vast park: trees seemed to abound in everv direction. The fields were all small and all surrounded bv hedgerows, as well as a chain or so of forest trees growing in the enclosures. In some instances clumps of trees were dotted

over the, paddocks. On the trair Ae had fine wide corridor cars and a dining car,' where a dinner of five or six courses could be had for 2s 6d. Travelling in - England is much more pleasant than in the colonies. The run from Paddington (London) to Exeter, a distance of 176 miles, was made in three and a-quarter hours without a stop, water for the engine being taken up by means of a scoop without speed being slackened. At Exeter I was met by Mr W. Ellicott, an old Wanaka iriend, who left New Zealand about 35 years ago to take up his residence in Devonshire, his native place. Time brinks' about many changes, but we were nevertheless able to recognise each other. Mr Ellicott. lives with hie brother, who owns a fine old residence named the Hermitage, just across the bridge over the Eimouth. Heie we spent several delightful days seeing the sights. One of these is the old cathedra], which dates back to the middle of the thirteenth century. It stands on high ground, and is surrounded by beautifully-kept lawns, on one of which is an equestrian statue of the late General Bailer. Exeter was his native place, and he was the owner of considerable landed property. On visiting the Museum. I found there Maori weapons,, moa bones, and other curios from New Zealand. We visited Totness, a very ancient town. It was in its time a walled town with four entrance gates. At the east gate is to be seen the ruins of a castle, which, according to the records, was built to enable the people to repel the Danes and other foreigners who harassed the country. Voyaging down the river to Dartmouth, 10 miles distant from Totness, the scenery is magnificent. The river is called the Rhine of England, but I doubt if the German Rhine is equal to it in interest and beauty. At York House, Dartmouth, we were served with a splendid lunch on a balcony overlooking the harbour for the modest sum of Is 6d, and for the first time since being in the country I thought we were among people with a conscience. Dartmouth Harbour is one of the finest in England, and here we found some obsolete wooden warships, including the old three-decker Britannia, which had been used as a training ship. Cadets are now trained ashore, and the Government have built a fine naval college on the hill at a cost -of a quarter of a million. On a rocky bluff at the entrance to the harbour stands a castle, which appears to have been later used as a church. It was probablv built originally to guard the entrance, which is from 300 yards to 400 yards wide. Crossing the harbour by ferry boat, we took train for Torquay, one of the loveliest places imaginable. Situated at the head of a wide bay, opening to the south, there is a fine crescentshaped esplanade. On the hillsides are some beautiful plantations, with narrow roadwavs cut out of . the rocky face running through them. On the roadside numerous seats are placed .here and there, and numberless grottos, caverns, and lovelv little nooks abound. The Torquay Gardens are beautiful. The town has a very jgood electric tram service. On what is called the round trip round the Doaviis, a distance of 12 miles can be made at a cost of Is. Palatial hotels and fine residences have been built on the Downs. Torquay is a great holiday and tourist resort, and there were thousands of visitors in the town, mostly Americans, when we were there. We noted that the red Devon rock crops up in most places in South Devon. Some properties of this rock are pbpularlv supposed to be responsible for the suitabilitv of the countrv for crowing apples suitable for making cider.