HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Otago Witness, Issue 2927, 20 April 1910, Page 10

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

By J. Gehbib.

COVERING FOR BULBS AFTER POTTING. Catalogues and books on gardening tell us that hyacinths and other bulbs which have been potted should be plunged inashes for six weeks or so while making roots, and the question has been frequently asked, Is this necessary? The old plan was no doubt successful, but where many pots were required it took a good, deal of time and material; but nowadays this trouble is dispensed with, as it can be done without any saorifios: of efficiency. Tulips, hyacinths, and narcissi when potted can be stood together in a cold frame and covered with leaves or any other litter, and this will answer the purpose very well. The reason of many bulbs, when making roots, pushing themselves up ; n the pots is that I the soil in th bottom of the pots is i pressed down so firmly that the roots cannot penetrate it easily, and the force works upwiards; but when the soil under the bulb? is left moderately loose, so that the roots can enter, there is no movement upwards, ! and no necessity for weighting them down with ashes or anything else, a light protection being sufficient. In the garden we do not make the soil hard, by preesing underneath before inserting the bulb. The hole is made, the bulb placed therein at the proper depth, a little sand placed under and over it unless the soil is sandy, and the earth closed in. This is the natural method, and it answers well. PAMPAS GRASS. In many places the pampas grass has been particularly fine this autumn. Its gracefully arching leaves, over-topped by the silvery plume-like heads, are very distinct from everything else. The ordinary form of the pampas grass is the most generally met with, and has been in cultivation for about 60 years, and during the greater part of that time it was known as Gynerium argentium, but a few years ago some of our botanical authorities changed it to Cortaderia argentea. There is a variety with rose-coloured plumes, also one with variegated foliage and dwarfer habit —a better plant for small gardens than the other forms. The noted horticulturist Mr Burbank has created a new variety, which he says. blooms two months earlier than any other pampas grass, and produces twice~ as many plumes, and blooms when half the age of any other. Seedling plants bloom the second year, producing from -15 to 20 plumes during the summer. Its ea'rliness,' hardiness, and effectiveness as a lawn plant will render it a . great i acquisition. SWEET PEAS IN TUBS.

1 In many town gardene in England sweet ! peas are grown in tubs. A barrel cut in two and painted green will last for years and answer well for the purpose. Holes must be bored in the bottom and a good layer of crocks, cinders, or charcoal placed at the base for drainage. On this place a layer of rotted manure, then nearly fill the tubs with some good soil, bonedust, and manuro. The soil should be made tolerably firm by ramming. Sow in each tub about a dozen seeds, but thin the plants out to five or six when all danger of losing them is past. Five plants will give better results than if all were allowed to remain. If the plants get too high take the tops out, and this will cause the side shoots to flower more freely. With good treatment in the way of manuring and watering, and never allowing a eeed-pod to form ,th© plants miay be had in bloom for three or four months. s When grown .n tubs they may be used for covering a trellis or wall, provided something is put j for them to cling to.

THE RESURRECTION PLANT. The botanical name of this plant is Selaginella lepidophylla, and it is found abundantly in the semi-arid highlands of Mexico and Texas, often covering largo surfaces of barren, rocky land. During dry weather it curls tightly together, the leaflike branches becoming grey and brittle, •but when rain falls it quickly opens into an attractive fern-like rosette, quite fresh and green in appearance. When cut at the end of the growing season these plants retain for some months sufficient vitality to repeat the process many times if alternately moistened and allowed to dry out. Occasionally a. plant may be induced by careful treatment to root and grow after being severed from the soil for a considerable time. There are several other Selaginellas having the same property in a less degree, but the one now under notice is the -most striking. SPRING FLOWERING PLANTS FOR GREENHOUSE. Attached to many houses there is often a small conservatory in which no artificial heat is provided. This may be kept gay with flowers by having recourse to hardy plants. For this purpose there are a number of spring-flowering subjects which are very suitable. These can be lifted from the open ground during the next month and potted up. For a week or two after lifting it is advisable to keep them in a frame, noderately close and shaded. When jrell established they will require plenty of aid on all favourable occasions. Primroses, polyanthus, auriculas, perennial candytuft, wallflower, stocks, Canterbury bells, and many other such like subjects, besides bulbs and shrubs, may be utilised. By treating them in this way the plants flower three weeks to a month in advance of those'in the open air. POLYGONUM BALDSCHUANICUM. This climbing plant from Bokhara, which has been so highly commented on in leading horticultural journals, has proved rather disappointing in the North _ Otago district as "a flowering plant. It is said to .be a most profuse flowering plant even in a young state, but specimens which have come under my notice have as yet failed to bloom satisfactorily. _lt makes rapid growth, and in ar short time covers a considerable space, but produces only a few sprays of bloom. The flowers are a blush white, appearing first in January and continuing on for a considerable time. The plants here have probably been raised from seeds, which may account for their nofc flowering freely, or there may be varieties. If any reader of these notes has the plant growing I should like to hear how it has behaved with him.

HERBACEOUS BORDER. The healthy life of the majority of herbaceous plants averages from two to five years, after which they begin to deterioTate. Wheo replanting, choose pieces from the outside of the clumps of phlox, pyrothrums, chrysanthemums, and such like for this purpose. The old soil should be replaced with fresh, giving in addition a liberal supply of well-rotted manure. You will be well repaid the following season by a vigorous growth and finer bloom. Tulip.—May is the best month to plant tulips. They thrive best in a well-drained soil n'f. sunny aspect. They should be planted not less than 3in deep, unless where tLa ground happens to be exceptionally wet and heavy. Many beginners do not plant deep enough.