FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 2924, 30 March 1910, Page 74

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

<Feom Oub Own Cobrespondent.) Febi uary 11. We are in between two seasons, and tha air is full of speculation -as to what we shall have to wear during the spring. . By Easter, tailors and others will have decided upon a definite plan of campaign; in the meantime sundry experiments aro being tried and the results are often weird. Easter this year will come in witlj, the calendar spring, so there ought to bo a great parade of settled tailor-made styles. In ihe interval we are fed up with lots of-rumouri which come from Paris' and Vienna. • • • - It is interesting to be told that dainty, simplicity will be the keynote of. the season's fashions. The barbaric splendour of the past year, is to merge into softhued chiffons, shot silks, and crepons. There is reason to believe that the tightfitting " tube" coat and skirt will be replaced by a fashion which will give an opportunity for far more originality. —The Belted Coat.— • Already some of the experimental coata show a belt round the waiet, or perhaps some distance "below'it, and now we have definite assurance" that smartest ? coats will have a. belt—a hip belt, in fact—exactly lik3 the little blouse coats one sees on children. To give this peculiar effect the waists themselves look large—in fact, there is no real waistline at all, so the belted coat is not among the becoming variety The belt is often put to lade the : unctiou of the added basque-a x&i

OTA GO WITNESS.

viyil of a formu etyle—which is introduced somewhere about the hip-line Wrap coats are necessary as an accompaniment to a Princess dress, and although rather warm materials are now being used in their construction; presently the choice will lie between Tussore, cloth, silk, moire, and satin; these ooats are to be very simple, often with the roll collar opening down the front The newest coats for serge suits are short and have cuffs and collars of some fancy material such as foulard or moire, or the rovers may foe of white piped with a contrasting braid, or even of chine and flowered silk A material which the fa-More aro going to use is tussore cloth, which is rather thicker than the ordinary Shantung, and it has a mix-tui-e of mohair and silk in its weave. Coats and skirts, both of the lighter make and of this more weighty material, will be worn right on through the season, and some of the latest colourings are delightful, particularly perhaps the new blues. Mohairs or alpacas are other materials to be revived at a subsequent date. Several new makes of silk have been put on the market, but the ttailors seem inclined to favour tha heavy, rich Shantung more than anything else; much of it is ribbed like an Ottoman silk There are a few people who etill like the coat and skirt of moire, despite its a hard and sombre appearance, and there are others who are .going to give satin a turn. Coats and skirts of black satin have been seen here and there for some little while, just as have those of velvet, but it seems as if satin suits will maintain their affection, and possibly increase it. At the moment the tailors are experimenting with the pocket on the suit of satin; this new feature takes the form of an enormous sloping opening on either side of -the coat, about ■ twelve inches in length, trimmed with a stepladder of brandebourgs with barrels. With these ooats of black satin the skirts worn are ridiculously tight and skimpy—they seldom measure more than two and a-half yards round the he.n. Scanty skirts do manage to attain a position widen is surprising ; their disapearance has long been talked of, but somehow it has not yet; com eto pass. The idea seems to be that the Parisienne does not like the idea of parting with the narrow silhouette, and there is just a possibility, therefore, that the narrow skirt may be frequently seen for a long while to come, particularly as the culotte has been introduced to wear beneath it. —The New Garment.— The closely clinging silk maillot was found rather to cool for the winter; the silk petticoat is considered to be too bunchy for wearing beneath the scanty skirt, so sottij ingenious person thought of the oulotte. This is fashioned much after the pattern of- Turkish pantaloons, worn by Eastern women; it reaches as far as the ankle-bone, where it is confined with elastic. Satin is the matcirfal usually selected, and this matches the dress in colour; there is a lining of fine wadding to impart the necessary warmth; a substitute will be found in wool-backed satin In some respects the culotte is a sensible garment, but women who discard all their petticoats have a draggle-tailed apearanoe about the feet., —Narrow Skirts.—

More material is allowed for bodices, provided the waist line is preserved with plain severity, and some of the skirts are much draped and looped up here and there. But a great many of the dress skirts as well as of the tailored skirts are very narrow particularly so in the region of the ankles. More and more%umerous are the tunics gathered into bands of embroidery just above the knees, or banded with satin ribon, and even the longest skirts are given an inward line by the cutter. If the material is thin, it is gauged and gathered together so as to form a. tight line round the hips, round the knees, or round the ankles—sometimes "at two' of these points. If a front panel is introduced, as well as one down the middle ofthe back, the sides flow out m kilted pleats. People desirous of being thoroughly up-to-date must manage to achieve flatness belowJ;he waist at the back. At smart female figure seem. 6 to have been pared away to meet all the latest Caprices of fashion. Wearers of the tight skirts seem to have to shuffle along, they cannot walk, and their movements arc consequently finnicky. —Various Details. — Quite frequently it ie found that the up-to-date yoke and sleeves of dress bodices are cut in one piece, and some of the sleeves are long and cling closely to the arm, outlined" with buttons. Others again are cut just sufficiently long to turn the elbow where there is a finish of the narrowest possible little ruching of material or of some such fabric as chiffon or ninon, but from the shoulder to an inch or so above the elbow the fit is perfectly close, and without a wrinkle or a fold. If there is a dress collar, it is high, though not suggostive of chokiness. but in all probability every effort will be made to do away altogether with the upstanding dress collar—lts substitute will be a Peter Pan finish or a Toby frill. The latter lies flat round -the collar-bone; it is closely and finely pleated, and is usually of cambric. Some of the Toby frills have a second frill below, outlined with a narrow lace. But the collarless gown is not for the multitude. The fluffy, wide frilling has seen its best days, and when there is an upstanding dress collar of lace or net it is outlined round the top with cordings or pipings of velvet or silk or satin, usually matching -the dress in colour. Variation and contrast aro obtained by using a double cording of two different colours. Then, too, the tissues of gold, silver, and metallic tonings are used to impart variety, and further change can be obtained by using narrow flat bands of ribbon or velvet covered with small gold or parti-coloured beads; these bands certainly impart an appearance of brightness to a dull dress, and a jewelled oaboohon can b© introduced here and there to enhance the effect. The guimpe and sleeves are always of white or ecru net or lace, no matter what the tone of the dres9 so the added touch of colour round the throat is pleasing. Some of the :.;uimpes are of three _ layers—a chiffon foundation, on top of this a layer of gold or silver tissue, and then the net or lace; the suspicion of sparkle thus imparted is dainty. Another finish for the neck is of plaited silk, matching "the dress or contrasting with it. Many of the new self-coloured tissue gowns are completed with plaitings of the tissue, and these are repeated on the cuffs. Triple pipings of silk muslin are

laid together olosely, or the whole effect will be marred. These cordings and pipings, which add to the height of the collar, certainly impart a neat and trim ajppearance to the throat. Now that there is* so much flowered silk ribbon to be had for a few pence a yard, investment in some wili not be wasted, because on lingerie dresses., later on we shall see a narrow band of chine silk ribbon round the neck, finished in front with a small flat bow beneath the chin, while the accompanying waistbelt will correspond. The fashion of matching the waistbslt. and the piping at the neck is sure to have a large and lasting following. Ribbons of a gauze texture are quite good style, and some of the frocks of chiffon aire made with panniers falling in full folds to the hem of the dress, then swept round alnd draped once more almost to the waist, where they are held by a big bow .of gauze ribbon; similar ribbon forms a band.right round the pannier and is repeated on the bodice. Any contrast will be encouraged, so long as the colours harmonise, and many of the ribbons .are shot to accord exactly with the shot satins. There is no limit to their possible use, and the milliners are going to make up for lost time. Some Favoured Materials.—

Silk cashmere is a sensible fabrio for the time of year—it is warm, yet light in weight, and is very suitable for the house dress of the tunic or princess variety. Crepe de chine will ever be liked, and at the moment it is the foundation of many house dresses, made' in some picturesque style, perhaps with gracefully folded fichu bodice, completed with a chemisette and undersleevcs of real lace or of silver-spotted net; the skirt should be made to fit closely but yet not tightly round the hips, and then to flow out in a graceful train. One of the newest trimmings is of tiny beads sewn on to cobwebby black or white net; a short distance alway the foundation is invisible, and the tiny beads seem to wander about in fascinating designs all on their own; close inspection reveals the presence of the delicate foundation. Shot silk crepon is going to have a great future; just at present it is used for the drsssy dinner gown, and is lovely in a delicate shade of lirno-gretn with a deep hem round the skirt of liberty satin. The narrow hem of silk is not out of data on the skirt of voile or chiffon or riinon—indeed, it is quite likely that the silk band - will: be a prominent feature throughout the summer as a finish to .the skint of blurred floral muslin and batiste—both these materials are on the shelves waiting for the summer. Striped muslins in grey and white or grey and black with the lines broken or barred here and there are attractive —we shall feel more interested in them when there is some warm weather. But they are ail ready. Whole dresses of lace will be in demand later on, and gowns of tulle laid over a contrasting colour aire worn indoors even now; later they - will be included among the outdoor catalogue. Blousec-s of Irish green tulle over rose-coloured net are spoken of with enthusiasm, to bo worn with a skirt of green cloth, while another fashion which is considered pretty is to drape a green water-spotted net or plain meshed net over a foundation of gold, silver, aluminium or steel tissue. In all r, Aerials and for many occasions, grey, with its innumerable variations of tone, will foe received in high favour; for evening wear it has been in request for a long while. In addition to the r><?arl grey sfoade, there is one called gazelle, another known as antelope, and of -course the elephant-srrey is too useful to be abarndorted; 'the same remark might apply to the mole shade. As resrards blouses, they are of every material that was ever oroduoed. A great many are of silk net to match the rest of the costume. Presently- batiste will be the faA'oii'red fabric, and alreadv many blouses of it are in readiness. Some of them are tirked and are miade with pleated frills l-w-M-.rUrf.cJ with net: others are trimmed wiTh bands of dotted batiste of tV> sam** 'Fh'a.rTe. < The one-sided frill baa established iiself n.« a prominent of the Knflwvie blouse; it is uswiJUv of graduated width, and is It is tboutrbt that spotted fabrics will ly> a good d«al seen later, and a number of the newest coats of white ser<ng are beintr made with revers of foulard in nine an<-7 white, and white, and lilac and white. Shelve"; onntnininp' rlress materia' here a crood ilea.) of space occupier? by foulard, Knfh -'n the twill i-he satin varuM-v. The blouse material known a.* srmnella is reallv a species of twill foulard; it is stromr for wear. TJw. main seemis to that, the blon*e foulard is in s£ri*v« on a Ueht ""•ound. likr> "'foirtipir -i-rrjnps. M->re. use of it is »«WIo for shirt blouses with turn-down mlKr*: t.h-ato for ■ dressy blouses with Is*-" Wnnm^ff. For the Hair.—

Information from France ; £ to the effect that Parisian ladies are dressing their hair with fur, of all things, and making smart and _ effective coiffures cf this unlikely medium. A long strip of chinchilla, or sable or mole is taken and wound in round between the great coils of hair which are now the fashion. It all depends on the hair "whether this be successful or not. Light fur is best liked on daTk hair, and dark fur lias to be used with fair tresses. Sable is recommended in fair hair, while the result is even better if ft is mixed with red or auburn. An oxydised rose may be set in the midst of a chou of snowy tulle, which finishes off the junction of the fur band. Cut steel ornaments are being introduced again as hair decorations, graduated bands of cut eteel looking well, especially in grey hairj it is finished with a small bow of black velvet sewn with steel bands. Perfectly simple are hair ornaments consisting of a hoop of black ribbon-velvet, generally plaited and finished off with a velvet bow at one side of the head. Rather startling must have been the appearance" of a lady -in the stalls wearing over her hair a green and gold shot handkerchief, *so draped that nothing of the coiffure was shown excepting the front parting and a ■few curls at the back. In another instance the hair ornament took the form of a cap of gold net, at the corners to weight it down. Some authorities declare that the hair is to be worn tighter, so that hats and toques will finally become smaller. There is no sign of the coming change just yet. It is pretty evident that plenty of curls will be wanted, and there is some talk of the Eugenie curl being l'einstated, to fall over the shoulder; indeed, the sale is reported of ringlets which are to be worn in that way..

For the Bride. — Weddings are constantly taking place in New Zealand; and it is therefore quite possible that some prospective brides may like to know what is now permissible in connection with the ceremony. The Express has been giving some hints: — Gloves can be dispensed with if liked, particularly while the transparent sleeve is long and fitting and reaches to the knuckles of the wearer; in such circumstances gloves are found to be a trial and an inconvenience, therefore leave them at home. Eight.or ten thousand pearls are looked upon as quite a. moderate'allowance for the decoration of the wedding gown de luxe; they are on the dress and embroidered on to the train. Very few bridal dresses are to have collar-bands, the vest or yoke being cut away at the throat and finished round with pearls.

.Old lace is always a possession, and the favourite method of arranging this bridal heirloom is to drape it over the train in the form of a Spanish mantelet, with: one corner arranged as a Capuchin hood,- from -which falls a heavy pearl or silk tassel. The wedding veil is seldom worn over the face. The latest Parisian edict 13 for an immensely long veil of tulle, quite square; it is draped up' at the sides of the jupe something after the manner of - panniers, only the hair behind is covered. A touch of colour was lately introduced into the bridal gown to please a young bride. The dress was of soft white satin; next there was a veiling of palest pink tulle, and over that another* veiling of tulle, in white, worked lavishly with nearls. A soft suggestion of pink was noticeable, and was just sufficient to prevent a toodead white, which sometimes is trying. Tin the bouquet, mingled with white flowers, were a few flesh-tinted carnationa The bride is said to have looked charming. The myrtle wreath is at times worn in preference to the orthodox orange blossom. Gleanings.— There are so many beautiful shades of violet and heliotrope just now These are specially prominent with the arrival of Lent, when dresses and blouses and millinery all show more than a touch of mauve. Coats and skirts of pale Parma violet lire collars and cuffs of darker violet moire, and buttons covered to correspond. - Jabots of iace will vie with those of embroidered linen, and in the lattev cfiere are eoau) charming new designs, both as regards patterns worked «ind the way in which the styles are made up-"

Embroidered lir.cn waistbelts will bo worn with white dresses, and dainty little baga made of embroidered linen mounted on silk to match the colour of the dress are to be carried.

Very prominent is the new waist belt, which is of corselet pattern. It conies' high up the figure, but its lower portion is sometimes cut away in a sharp point, coming: below the waist. It may be of embroidered ribbon, studded with sparkling stones; then it makes a noticeably brilliant effect on the gown. Some of the" new dresses for day and for ewming wear are showing the corsage draped from one side to the other at the back as well as in front; the ends of the draping ai-e caught on the hips beneath conspicuous buckles and then fall with sashlike ends.

A good many coats arc made in military style and fasten on the slant; the accompanying skirt will be trimmed on one side only. ■A feature of evening bodices is the manner in which the material is cut away to within an inch of the waistline, and filled in with a drapery of net. It is to be noted, too, that where the full-dress gowns are concerned the decolletage is extremely wide, the bodice being cutaway very much on the shoulders.

" Lad v Charlotte " writes:—" Linen cuffs are bain? won again by women with fashionably made and skirt costumes, «r>d to the left cuff a nw»w button is addwd. It is a w<nw3erfully constructed little watch' set with stones and absolutely reliable as e. +iniftk*»ep<?r. The watch is ininto the cuff ius't as an ordinary stud would b», »<nd is found more men as well as bv women than the wriststrao with a watch inset." Chiffon seems to be needed for _ everything, and usuallv its wearing dualities are irreproachable. Whether the latest use to which it is to be n«t will make foT economy is doubtful. Chiffon is the newest lininsf for fur coats; it. is fully oleated and caught down at. intervals by rows stitohinr. All down the the chiffon is frilled in wavy lines. The linine need not match the fur: a warm contrast is _ rjrefprrf.x-]. A chinr-1-.illa mant.lp shows a bnvncf of old rose chiffon or silk ninon; inside sable, ivory white looks V>est. Peonlc who have to be economi<vil find that, silk lininara srive wav too ouioklv, while «atin linings do not la«t anv too well. Such had better beware of chiffon or ninon. ("Moves must ma Mi thegowns worn—such is the latest decree. 43T Descriptions of balls. See., must be endorsed by either the Witness correspondent for tin district or by the searctary of the ball committee. The MS. of any correspondents who do not comply with this rule tv.il bis s-eut to tho secretary tot ci>aers«Lient prior to appearing-.—EMMELINE. To ensur* publication in the forthcoming iasna lottors should reach the Witaess office if possible an Saturday night, but on no account later than Monday night. JIARABOA BACHELORS' SOCIAL AND DANCE A very pleasant social and dance was given by the Mararoa bachelors in Mr Dtuiery'a barn, kindly lent for the occasion. Visitors drove great distances from all surrounding districts, and thoroughly enjoyed themselves, bs they were treated right royally. The barn was tastefully decorated with ferns and lamps. Messrs Patterson brothers and H. Beer supplied the music, and Messrs C. and l H. Beer acted as M.C.'s. Songs were rendered by the Misses Hill .and Messrs) Anderson, Hickens, Leech, Deans, and A. Beer. The committee- consisted of Messrs J. Judge (secretary), J. Pagan (chairman), A. Beer, J. Rush, W. Pagan, G-. Pagan, B. Kafferdine, and J. Patterson, and they are entitled to every credit for the manner in which they worked up the pleasant function.