IN KAIPARA WATERS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2808, 8 January 1908, Page 81

IN KAIPARA WATERS.

By a Lady Rambler.

n. The Kaipara Harbour, upon which we now embarked,, is so important a sheet ..of water that it. is said the measurement of its coast line, including that of the many Tivere and' streams which feed its waters, is equal to the whole of the rest of New Zealand. Several great rivers and many streams, pour, .themselves into the inlet, which has but a narrow opening, through which the tide races, scouring out -the harbour to a great depth. The bay is almost landlocked, and across its entrance lies a" shifting and dangerous bar. It has been the scene of many wrecks. The wild "west coast of N.Z. is swept by ■winds and' waves which have travelled from cold and stormy regions, and is subject to the attacks of gates and mountainous, seas. Our early pioneers experienced very rough weather on the WestCoast when the pathways and waterways' were little known, or understood, and ships stood away for many days before attempting a landing. Like nearly all parts of N.Z., the Kaipara was once thronged with Maoris, who gained an easy livelihood on the shores, where shellfish abounded, obtainable at law tide, and mullet leaped of themselves into fishing canoes-. The low, sheltered lands were extremely productive, and. the Maoris shunned the weird gum-laden uplands as the haunts of the spirits of their ancestors. Many tribes flourished around the Kaipara shore, and built their pas and fortifications on every eminence. Huge kauri trees lifted up their mighty heads above the surrounding forest of kahikatea, maiai, and rimu. The excellence and abundance of the timber immediately attracted the white man's attention, and a great industry grew up on the Kaipara shore. Scores of boats, came and went laden with dressed timber, and the sound of the woodman's axe and the cross-cut saw resounded in the land, whije fine timber milk were established in many directions. So industrious were the ■workers and so great the output, that the lands were decimated of the forests which had been their greatest adornment. The Kaipara Harbour presents the appearance of a lake, and steam boats ply in various directions. Three very large rivers and many smaller streams debouch into the bay, and each district is served by separate boats. We chose the Wairoa, which is perhaps the most important. The Kaipara Steamship Company runs the steamers, which are quite sufficiently comfortable river packets. That by which ■we travelled was under the command of a very kind and considerate captain, and we needed consideration, for the winds and! the sea both arose mightily, and instead of being carried gently over a placid lake, we found ourselves on the bosom of a stormy sea, the waves breaking over the bows of our packet and sweeping the decks. We heard on all sides ominous hints of what would happen while we were "crossing." This expression on the Kaipara alludes to that part of the voyage whicli brings us from head to head across the mouth of the harbour, where \he waves of the Pacific sweep in unchecked, save by the bar outside. It is generally pretty rough during the " crossing," which may occupy from two to four hours, according to wind and tide. After that smooth water is reached, and the rest of out trip is practically within river banks. The whole .trip across from Helensville to the further shore occupies about eight hours. As soon as the "crossing" was approached there was a general rush below, where the steward had considerately served dinner. He had remarked ominously, "We always have dinner either before or after 'crossing.'" However, dinner or no dinner, nearly all the company was prostrated. The jovial captain peeped into. the saloon and called out, "Hullo! You don't look so pretty as you did in your photographs!" a remark which seemed to be received with some bitterness.

I had long looked forward to a clear view of the beautiful Kaipara Heads, and I began to fear that I should not see them after all. However, on the return journey later on we were more fortunate, as the harbour was then as smooth and clear as g^ass, scarcely a ripple breaking the surface of the shining water.

The scene in fine weather is extremely beautiful, the outlines of the surrounding hills clearly denned against the summer sky or veiled in misty haze, and presenting every tint of faint blues and purples rising from the clear and shining sea, which reflects the cliffs and headlands as in a mirror. All the shores have been forestclothed, but are now cleared and laid down in grass as sheep country. As our boat gained the shelter of the opposite cliffs we took courage and came on deck to view the scene. Passing by romantic headlands which have been crowned with Maori pas, we draw nep to the entrance of the Great Wairoa River, a very grand and remarkable waterway. On our left rises a pretty green-clad hill, on the too of which is a monument which was dedicated by Lord Eanfurly with much ceremonial and amid a great gathering of the Kaipara people, not many years back. It is on the site of a mission station established there in early days.

As we draw near to the Wairoa River mouth, we begin to appreciate the importance of this great water highway, which extends 100 miles inland, and is of great width, presenting a 'fine extent of navigable water. A friend who was with onr party compared the scene to that of the Mississippi, with which he was familiar. The banks on either side are low-lying, and suggest that in flood time trouble might eneue, but we were informed that the volume of water :s: s so great and its strength so mighty that floods do not greatly affect this magnificent river Immense areas of river flats extend on either side, and were once covered with forest, which has .now been cut away, leaving the land free for the cultivation of flax and, yther products. Wharves run out into the river every mile ox «*, »=<l many people

• come on and off the steamer. It is amusing to watch the steamers coming down the mighty river. The current is so strong that they are unable to stop at the many wharves without turning round on their course, so that they appear ,to perform a kind of ungainly .waltzing, turning around and" around as they go from, bank to bank, gathering -up passengers- and merchandise. The latter consists of" flax," wool, gum,, and "other commodities^ while huge, stacks of flour and J. .sugar are <Ji§goYged from the steamers/ "which , also take' on meat, butter, milk, etc.., for their owb consumption. W© visit 'thus, a. great num_ber of villages ' and huge timber mills, around which settlement congregates. As we advance up the river the -scene changes considerably, as conspicuous rocky . mountain peaks rise sheer from the river banks. Our traveller How tells us that ..the scene reminds him greatly of the Castled Rihirie, and that we only need grey ruins and. flourishing vineyards- to complete, the illusion. Every here and there brilliant patches of verdure speak of the application of some suitable fertiliser which has in© effect of. producing bright g-reen- on j the slopes. There are some very remark- j able rocky formations. One in particular, called Toka Toka, dominates the scene from every point of view over a vast extent of country. There are many interesting Maori legends connected with this secluded and 1 comfortable country, which has not always j presented so peaceful an, aspect. Tribe j has frequently warred against tribe, and there have been cruel strivings for possession >f the principal outlooks over the river. There is a romantic story of aMaori maiden who was taken- prisoner and carried away by a hostile tribe. In her captivity she overheard plans for an attack upon her native district. She contrived to make' her escape, and travelled for several days from point to point along the riverside, enduring terrible' hardships. When at last she reached her home settlement, it was only with her dying breath that she was able to tell' her story and 1 convey warning- to her people. She was so weak with suffering and fatigue thatonly a feeble cry was heard upon the night calnng to her people, for assistance. Her mother recognised her voice,- and* hurried forth to find her expiring child* and listen to her desperate warning, which saved her people from destructon.

During the Maori wars with Europeans, and during the spread of Hauhauism, the people of this district were quiet and orderly, being away from those influences which caused so much trouble in the land. The Native difficulty has not been so acute here a® in other parts of New Zealand, but, as- elsewhere, the Maori , element^ is fast disappearing, and there are not a great many Maoris in evidence at the present time. We meet a great many Austrians on board the boat and in the settlements.

The settlements are fast becoming townships, with schools and churches, as well as business premises and busy 'wharves. Often the villages axe very prettily situated on rising grounds, tod but a short distance apart, so that there is a mingling of interests. A fine hospital is, built on an eminence overlooking the river, and is a convenient centre, accessible to several settlements.

The river life has a great charm, and j there are many amusements suited to the ! district. Water polo should certainly be J one of these, and every kind of aquatifc I sport should be popular. I feel tempted | to conclude this paper wdth a /story of one , of has adventures told me by our captain, j although I cannot hope to convey his | quaint manner of relating the singular experience. Chir visit took place ""on a>i , ocasion when great festivities were i going on in connection with an axemen's carnival, in itself a somewhat quaint en-, tertainment. people travelled from far and near to take part in it. I heard of one who rode 60 miles, carrying his own particular brand of cross-cut saw slung across Ms saddle bow. However, all the settlements "in the vicinity of the carnival were crowded, and there seemed likely to be a difficulty in obtaining hotel accommodtition. Our captain told us of this, and most kindly offered us the key of the saloon of his boat, inviting, us to remain on board for the night, while she j was moored at one of the principal ; wharves. " You will be quite comfortable," he said 1 , " and I ant very pleased ( to be able to provide for you thus. By j Jove ! I did nave a,' queer experience at that > wharf once. I was sleeping on board my boat, because the place was ( crowded just as it is now. By Jove, they ( are a queer lot, some of these folk! — wouldn't stick at anything! However, a& I was saying, I slept on board in the saloon, and, by jingo ! I woke up all of c ! eudden and found myself — boat and all — at the bottom of the river. Everything , was afloat ! I swam round and round, but , [ thought I must be dreaming. Every , jolly thing was closed, and there seemed no chance of getting out. I make for the skylight, but it was jammed. I had just j eaid my last prayer, and was bumping up , against the ceiling of the cabin with about ' a foot te_jipare, when suddenly there came | a mighty report. Something bust, and let in the air. I was shot out like the cork of a popgun, and up the companion- , way like a flash of lightning. It seemed a miracle. I had taken off my clothes while j swimming, to be free, and now I sat down on top of a post on the wharf, -md kept j gazing down upon where my boat had j been. a here #as no sign of her except I two little sticks, the ends of her masts, ' above the still water. The night was ] clear, and there was no sound — as still j as death. I thought still I must be dream- ' ing ! It was half moonlight. Someone i :ame along the wharf and gave me a smack on .the back and said, 'Hullo, cap-, tain, what's up ! You're very airily attired !' I looked down, at myself, and found that I was sitting there without a stitch. 'My boat's down there,' I said.

"'Your boat! Holy Moses, the man's raadi*

" 'Them's her masts,' I said, pointing -to the two sticks above the water. "My word, -it -was »r : shofek> r Jttaf&'said some of -those* bloming axem'en^haoi bjfehea up her cocks and let 'her down, -.but I'nev^er knew exactly how it happened! iAnyjTCay, yoji.ele^bn hoard of-JiWfe^ffi&W-as g^ : as "a" hosj§|g£grfr y?^i.'V^s^MM-o^ftf^W^ We ttiS^^S^^^^evy heipily, ;|>ut jro& may, be^lpSg^thpgt-F ic^M: hatetfcjatil commodaMefii Jj&djgpy§^t sjpgpshoje night, aOTrSeys3r^o^xeinen.. ;^ ?Ts^h£3