NEW ZEALAND NATIONAL PARK.

Otago Witness, Issue 2779, 19 June 1907, Page 89

NEW ZEALAND NATIONAL PARK.

VISIT OF INSPECTION". SPECIAL REPORT NO. V, (By Ro. Carkick.) New Zealand has built up elaborate systems in the predisposing cause to profanity. There is the Devil's Staircase, on the banks of the Wakatipu. I can recall it in the year 1862-3, and am quite convinced the " lurid language" it provoked was strong enough to make pandemonium ring with- applause. The Granite Wall at the head of Lakes Valley, 'en route to Fanny Cove, is just another of the same. We got into its staircase gully — a mere driblet in water, as we found it ; still, we saw enough to prove that in flood time it could collect its forces into a stream of magnitude. We had traces of its rise well up the sides -of the ridge, and in that state it must haVe been an awesome element in the world of waters. After a severe journey, or, rather, scramble through the gully, we came out on a butte, whence to the top of the Granite Wall we were able to select a tolerably good leading spur. We spent two days on the peaks making particular note of* the " lay of the land " in relation to the through track — Supper Cove to Manapouri — as also the country in. and around Dusky. The latter we had spread at our feet. It made a grand display in seascape scenery, with islands, skerries, and coves, hardened up into stern grandeur by the jagged hill-tops and towering heights in the immediate neighbourhood. On the other hand, we could outline the country through which we had passed, correct erroneous impressions of its " lay," and adjust its compass bearings. Leaving the top of the range, we made our way by an easy grade down into Fanny Cove. There we rejoined the craft, and, after sailing through Acheron Pass and Wet Jacket Sound, returned, landing on the track at Supper Cove. Thereupon we got on the " wallaby " and made our way overland to realms of civilisation, after spending 10 weeks outside its pale. What New Zealand lacks in enterprise of this kind is through tracks — I mean circular routes and round trips. A track has been made overland to Milford. I speak from memory when I say it has been at least 20 years in existence, and yet, with all the facilities that exist by land and by sea, travellers going have to retrace their steps returning. The domestic facilities of the colony are singularly apropos of week-end excursions, and yet we find them, coupled with such places as Lake Wakatipu, making but a poor show in public patronage. Apologetically we are told the superior attractions of the Exhibition are responsible theiefor. That may be, but change of venue with scenic diversions is what is imperatively demanded. For an amended programme on these lines I contend the country referred to in my foregoing articles is in every respect well suited. The ROUND TRIP BY LAKE POTERITERI, Long Sound and Preservation is, I should think, pre-eminently the week-end trip. A 10ft track has been made along the coast to the foot of Poteriteri. A motor service and smart steam craft would have no difficulty in landing passengers at the head of the lake in one day. Thence to the head of Long Sound a track would have to be made. The distance would not exceed 10 miles. The country is rough, certainly, but it is not a whit rougher than the border glens and passes giving access to the Highlands of Scotland, and to which tourists from all parts of the world are accustomed to flock. Constructed on the time-limit or otherwise, I am bound to say a passable track quite «;ood enough for a day's journey on foot could be made. A few saddle hoises might be provided for emergencies. A sail of 20 miles down the sound would bring the excursionist to Cromarty, whence the regular subsidised steamer, per night or da}- passage of 10 hours, would land h ; m •it "the Bluff. There are two oil-engined craft in Preservation, go that Poteriteri is tho only water-way that would have to be provided for. Besides the making of the track — Long Sound to Poteriteir— impairs would have to be made on the track along the coa«t. The round trip would be easily accomplished in four days ; with moder ately good weather it would be the enjoyment- of a four days' enchantment, and nothing would do more towards promoting that great desideratum, camping out. There would be all the novelty of variety in tr;i\<?l without any of the monotony of the returning by the outgoing route. As a tompor-'lium of New Zealand scem-ry no excursion could be better chosen, 50 that .is a preliminary canter or intenti\o to fuilhsr exploration its uai results would be invaluable. LAKE HAUROTO comes next in teview. It is the main entrance overland upon these vast fiords. Had its corelative situations been rightly v ndei stood it would long since have asserted itself in that respect. The head of the lake lies within 15 miles of the through track to Supper Cove. The intermediate country for half the distance is traver&ed by the Hay River. The Lands Commissioner already- referred to tracked. the country up between the two lakes — Poteriteri and Hauroto — and his report,

coupled with my own observations, makes me believe no great difficulty would be experienced driving a good track through from the head of Hauroto to the main through route. It would strike Manapouri track at or near Lake Maree. Then, in that case, another fine circular route would be opened. We would have Manapouri from the West Arm through the Spey Valley branching off to Hauroto. Thence the journey would be as already indicated, by boat to the site mentioned for township purposes, which site., it will be remembered, is connected by macadamised roads with Clifden at the Waiau crossing, and on to Otautau, a well-known railway terminus. Or, if preferred, the traveller by Hauroto could go on to Dusky, where endless variety in fiordal traffic might Teadily be provided. On the other hand, it would still be on the line of country stretching through to Milford, and in coming or going thither a most acceptable change in the itinerary would be made. The distance between Hauroto and Poteriteri is immaterial, and the connecting of the two by road is simply a question of time. In that the utility of both lakes will be greatly enhanced for through trafficking pursuits. Until then Poteriteri can only assume the role of a "side show." while Hauroto serenades as a great central system in fiordal exhibits.

LAKES VALLEY OUTLETS are incidentally mentioned above. Supper Cove in Dusky is teiminal at the fiordal end of the track, junctioning with the lake (Manapouri) steam navigation to the head of West Arm. By itself the track is utterly useless. Give it reasonable feeder tracks and it -vrill become a popular thoroughfare in tourist traffic. It commands the versatility of one of the grandest sailing systems in the world. It has within its grasp everything in the graduated scale of scenery from meadow banks and seaward downs to the ragged, jagged, top-notes of the Southern Alps — the footstool of heaven. Fanny Cove, likewise noted above, is not more than 10 miles from Supper Cove. There we get the key to the Lakes Valley system. From the cove the divide makes a gradual ascent upwards, descending again at the opposite side to the valley at the head of lake number three. So far as I know the descent, a portion of it would have to be made in steps down the face of the gully. Possibly a more accessible route might be found. The three lakes bringing the traveller to Edwardson's Sound at the head of Chalky would have to be provided with boats, possibly good handy row-boats would serve the purpose. Thence the sail would be by engined-craft to Cromarty by way of Ciiff Cove or Southport, as might be preferred.