THE MILFORD SOUND TRACK.

Otago Witness, Issue 2669, 10 May 1905, Page 79

THE MILFORD SOUND TRACK.

ITS FAUNA AND FLORA

By Tomati Patexe

Mr Tom Mackenzie never loses an opportunity in th> interest of the fauna and flora of the country he so much loves. I have met him on several occasions on my touring rounds. Like myself he loves rambling amid the quiet charms of the glens, pushing his way through the wild gorge, clambering the high passes and mountain tops, and penetrating the silent and 'peaceful charms of the forest gloom, for which our lovely New Zealand is so widely and justly famed. My attention was attracted by his little patriotic contribution which appeared in one of your recent issues; I have mislaid the paper, but my memory is sufficient for my purpose. Mr Mackenzie's contention is, broadly speaking, that the means of protecting the native bird life of New Zealand chiefly rests with ourselves — once inspired with the necessary interest and patriotism preservation is assured. My object in writing now is to encourage the lovers of New Zealand's unique fauna, and confirm Mr Mackenzie's contention that we are personally capable of considerable protective influence, notwithstanding the pests that have been introduced into this once pestless country. • During the early part of last January I had the pleasure of doing my fourth trip oner the Milford Sound track. My first trip was indulged in many years ago — it was a mere blazed track at that time. Bird life was then abundant, every variety indigenous to that locality being well represented ; but the gun and -the dog were present even at that early stage, and the work of destruction was initiated. My second trip found bird life still represented, but alarmingly thinned' oitt. My third trip, so far as the immediate neighbourhood of the track was concerned, found several varieties practically extinct. During the interval between my third and fourth trips the Government very wisely prohibited the presence on the track of those deadly enemies to our native bird' life, the dog and the gun. The contention of Mr Mackenzie and th© wisdom of the Government's prohibition are fully confirmed by the increasing numbers of such birds as have not suffered practical annihilation or been driven in terror back into the wilds.

The weka is now abundant, and as tame as a domestic fowl. You meet him every few chains as you traverse the track, ard your approach does not alarm him. B'lth wekas, the brown and the black, are equally plentiful. They are very pugnacious birds, and fight like game over the waste scrap refuse thrown out from the huts after meals. They are very curious by nature, and most interesting birds. At Mintara several of them are quite domesticated. I was much amused watching a small brown one. There was a piece of soap on a log outside the hut which attracted his attention. After studying it attentively for a few seconds he dug his beak well into it, when it stuck so tight that it required a good shake to detach it. This ssenied' to intensify his curiosity ; he surveyed it anew, then gave it a few more digs, but, discovering the flavour was not up to expectation, he moved , away till he espied an empty wooden match box. He picked this up and shook it a. little, then dropped it and examined it with curious attention ; then hs gave it a vigorous dig with his beak, and finding it give way he demolished it. He then moved in the direction of the refuse heap, where he found a small piece of rejected bacon, which he began to discuss with relish. While so engaged a large black weka made its appearance. He eyed his opponent dining for a few seconds, then made a dive for the spoil. A fie-rce scrum ensued, but the black intruder being the more, powerful he' secured the prise and' cleared with it into the bush.

The blue mountain duck, the Maori " whio," is becoming very plentiful on the Arthur side of the pass. I oounbed some eight pairs before reaching the sound ; they are invariably met with in pairs, and confine themselves to the mountain streams. They are naturally tame, and are not much alarmed at your approach : they give their peculiar whistle, and more with the stream till they are carried into a bend or pool where the current ceasee. With continued protection this fine bird will become very tame and plentiful, but it will never quit the mountain torrents — they are its home.

The kiwi (Apterix australis) is now very rare: I question if he will be seen again along the track ; but the camp hands assured me that he was occasionally heard in the distance of an evening.

The ground parrot — kakapo— is still in the district, but not pleatiful. I frequently heard him booming in the bush far back. The crow, the saddleback, and the thrush were not visible, and were not reported, as numerous. I can assign no cause foi' their absence, unless retirement for seclusion during the breeding season. The parson bird (tui) and the bell bird (makomako), both indigenous to Now Zealand, are very plentiful, darting after insects and probing their long bills into the wild flo-v-ers in search of honey, which constitutes their bill of fare during ihe summer season. Their clear, ringing, musical note is heard in the early morning. During the day the tai, when, ji-eoleted,, loves to ceroh

on the top twig of the talkst tree and pipe these swe«t notes that so charm li-is -friends the bird lovers.

Where the cuckco is there you will find tho warbler — the " riroriro " of the Maori. The long-tailed cuckoo, the " koekoea," is the one that favours us with hii3 presence. I saw him frequently, and hey.rd his screech in all directions, while the warbler would be patiently incubating its eggs and performing the duties of a foster parent. Kakas and piguono were frequently seen, but they were not plentiful; however, j. am confident they will increase henceforth. At Manapcnri the beautiful crested grebe was well lepresented. " I am quite safe in saying that the Government restrictions on the Milford Sound track are already bearing fruit, and this ■will be more evident each succeeding year.

The flora of the pass and the track was poorly represented this year, the season not having been at all favourable. The Ranunculus lyallii (mountain lily) was past the blooming stage. A few solitary ribbonwoods were in bloom, but the bloom was not profuse. The track and accommodation have va-sMy improved since being taken over by the Government. Compared with the " good old days," the journey now is mere child's play — a veritable picnic ouiing from start to finish. Many ladies do the trip now : jou meet them at frequent intervals, and they come from all parts of the colony and abroad. On striking up a chat you soon discover how thoroughly they are enjoying themselves, and how the little incidental drawbacks are made the best of — even treated with humour. The accommodation at both ends — Glade House and Sutherland's — is really excellent, considering their remoteness from civilised centres. Is this atteiupt at " up-to-date " refinement not going to rob the trip of its ancient charms? Very soon the journey will offer no change to tho tourer. With a fair track, I should prefer to see all else in its primeval state, in keeping with the wild and rugged erandeur of the district. However, it is foreseen by the Government and Sutherland that up-to-date accommodation and comfort are preferred by the majority of tourists. The stream of tourists -will steadily increase with increasing comforts. The Government contemplates extensive additions to Glade House. Sutherland, too, is going to add largely to his present accommodation, and I understand these improvements will be available for next season's traffic. Mil ford Sound, though more remote, has many advantages over Glade House. You have an abundant supply of fresh fish of good variety. Mrs Sutherland has plenty dairy cows and poultry ; they have a wellstocked vegetable garden and herds of wild cattle close at hand. The attention and interest in the comfort of their guests are equally good at both places. Sutherlands have a fine little oil launch, available for picnics or fishing excursions. As a further attraction to this very fine restinig place, Mrs Sutherland makes almost liberal concession to small parties. To encourage the formation of small parties for the Sounds trip — say five — she makes a concession of 20 per cent, in her charges — i.e., for a party of five she only charges for four. I am commissioned by Mrs Sutherland to spread this information broadcast amongst my friends, and I am taking advantage of my position here to do so,- but with another object in view. This may meet the eye of the Government or its tourist representative. The stimulating effect of a 20 per cent, concession to small parties of five will go far to induce their formation and further promote the tourist traffic. My party consisted of five — myself, three daughters, and a Victorian friend, — and the concession appealed to mo as the. proper thing for the Government to fall in with. The one thing the Government is steadfast and consistent in is the promotion of the tourist traffic of the colony. I would further suggest to the Government that the camps be provided with a supply of corned beef, salt ling, and a good supply of bacon. These items are not perishable; they are, as a food, cheaper and more readily supplied than tinned meats, to which they would be a very welcome change to most tourists.

The cooks, guides, and track hands are a fine selection of men, and are practically united in their "efforts to please and do ail they can for the comfort and enjoyment of their louring guests. At Manapouri the accommodation and creature comforts have undergone a complete revolution since my last visit : now you find everything thoroughly up to date. No one who has a. taste for touring should miss this charming trip.