LADIES' GOSSIP. The Colour to Suit Ton. THE SET DANCE.

Otago Witness, Issue 1851, 30 March 1904, Page 66

LADIES' GOSSIP.

The Colour to Suit Ton.

THE SET DANCE.

— The Dowager Empress Marie FeodoTovna of Russia. ha« provided a, sum of £11.000 for an object which will commend itself to humanitarian?. It is to be given as rewards to inventors who devise improvements m the present methods of dealing with sick and wounded in the field. Ihe competitions, in which, ingenious persons are asked to take part, aje three in number . -They comprise the best means of finding and removing the -wounded 11 om the field of action ; the most convenient type of stretcher for conveying the injured to dressing stations ; and the most effective means of saving life at sea. According to a statement furnished by Viscount Kmitsford, the chairman of the Central Briti&h Red Cross Committee, the competitions are enirely open. — One of our duchesses has so ordered her life for many years that it is a blessing to many a London East-end worker's life. She has many helpers, one of whom, a beautiful vieountess, is a special friend {o the servant cla^s. These ladies (according to Mrs Humphry, '"Madge," in Truth) spend their income in charity, as well as all their _ energies and their exceptional musical gifts.

I — Artificial flowers are u,«ed lavishly this year for decorative purposes. Wreaths aie worn in the hair, of daintiest chiffon 1 or gauze flowers, long trails and "garlands decorate the decolletage and are fe&tooned I on the _ skirts of evening gowns, floral j sashes — indeed, all sorts of floral arrangements, lend elaboration to fluffy yet graceful evening gowns of the piesent fashion. Roses are certainly the queen of all this j floral beauty, roses of green and blue as j much, as pink and red. Lovely collars ond peleiines and dress ornaments are fashioned by introducing silk, chiffon, or gauze roses, combined with lace and £old or silver embroidery. But the newest flower to bid for favour is the sunflower, which is Morn in clu^ieis or wr-eaths in the coiffure and on evening bodices, made of gold gauze beautifully embroidered in gold. Large sunflowers of mousseline-de-JKiie, with rich brown centres, are exquisite on a yellow mousseline evening gown, on which sable can be introduced with good effect. Then for the hair the art jewellers have evolved sunflower ornaments of yellow horn and gold ; and little brooches and buttons of gold, yi the form of sun- ' flowers, with the centres of brown enamel, ! are among the latest novelties. — Fashion cotes in Home paper.

—It is said that some of the members of his family are urging upon the Grand Duke 01"0 1 " Hesse to Inairy again. His life is a vtry lonely one, now that he has lost the little daughter who was so very dear to him (say& the Lady's Pictorial). The Czar and Czaritsa and all his sisters, as well as Queen Alexandra, who deeply sympathise with him in his bereavement, feel that this would be the best course to pursue, and it is said that the bride his relatives would like for him is Princess Charlotte of Oldenburg, a niece of the Duchess of Connaughfc. The Grand Duke of Hesse has known her for years, and admires her character ; but the fact that she is already doubly related to our Royal Family makes the pro&pectj>f &uch an alliance a little awkward.

An artist's rule as to colcmr in clothes ' h — Choose carefully only those tints of ■which a duplicate may be found in the ; hair, the eyes, or the complexion. A ■woman ■with blue-grey eyes and' a thin nexitral-tinted complexion is never 1 more becomingly dressed than in the blue shades in ■which grey is mixed, for in these complexions, there is a certain delicate blueness. j A brunette is never so exquisite «is in j cream colour, for she has reproduced the tinting of her skin in her dress. Put the same dress on a colourless blonde, and she will b"e far more charming, -while in giey she would be quite the reverse. The reason is plain. In the blonde's sallowness there are tints of grey, and in the dark -woman's pallor there are always yellowish tones — the same as predominate in the cream-coloured dress. Women who have rather florid comj plexions look -well in various shades of plum and heliotrope, also in certain shades of dove gi'ey ; for, to a trained '.ye, this colour has a tinge of pink, -winch harmonises -with the flesh of the face. Blondes look, fairer and younger in dead black like that of wool goods or velvet, while brunettes require the sheen of satin or gloss of silks in order to wear black to advantage. To ensure publication in the fortficoming -issue letters should reach the Witness office if possible on Saturday night, but on no account later than Monday j niqlit W Descriptions 0/ balte, <£c, must be endorsed by I either the Witness correspondent for the district or by ' the secretary to the ball committee. The MS of any 1 correspondents viho do not comply roifli this rule will ' be sent to the secretary for endorsement prior to appearing. — EMMELINE WEDDING AT WAIPUKUBATT. Dear Emmeline, — A very pretty wedding took place on March 3 at St. Andrew's Church, Waipukurau. The church was beautifully decorated with ferns, evergreens, and white ! flowers The contracting parties were Dr ; Zimpel and Miss Eleanoi Cole Chappie. The j ceremony was performed by the Eev. T. j M'Donald, brother-in-law of the bride, assisted by the Rev. J. Stowell, "Waipawa. The bride was attended l>y her two little rteices, Missss Alary M'Donald and Jean Chappie, and was given away by her brother, Dx Chappie, of Wellington. The beat, man was Mr J. Turnbull, also of Wellington. The bride was diessedi -in ivory duchess satin, the bodice and tram trinuned with nichings ot chiffon an-d lily of the valley, with tbe usual orthodox veil arid orange blossom, and carried a lovely shower bouquet. The two little maids were dressed in white silk with lace and insertion, with large picture ihats. and carried baskets of choice flowers. The bride's presents were numerous and costly. The bridegroom's present to the j bride was a diamond ring, and the bridesmaids ! received gold broodies. The reception was held I ju the hall adjoining the cliurch, which was also iestooned with evergreens and flowers. Among the guests I noticed the Hon. Mr Smith and Airs Smith, the latter dressed m green silk covered with cream net ; Mrsi and Misses Harding, of Mount T-ernon, the forniei in black brocrded satin, Miss Harding in voile watli white satin and lace trimming ; Misg May Harding?, green costume; Dr and Miss Godfrey, the- latter di egged in blue voile audi white trimmings; Dr and Mrs Sloan, Haweia, the latter dressed in gr£y voile trimmed with lace; Dr, Mrs, and Miss Todd, Waipawa, Mrs Todd in black satiu with, white silk vest; 'Mrs Hunter, of Bumside, Hawers, black costume ; Miss Maunder, Westcot, Hawera, grey and black costume ; Dr anci Mrs M'Gavm,. the latter dressed m black broche satin and cream net vest; Dr and Mrs Chappie, the latter drsssed in champagne eilk blouse and black brocade satin skirt ; Mrs Feist, puiple cloth, and large black hat; Mr M'x)oiialds, -who leceived the guests, wore black brocbe silk and old gold chiffon trimmings ; Mrs Chappie, sen., black silk grenacinc. white silk vest covered with net; Mr and Mrs Downs, Waipawa, the latter dressed in cream voile. The happy couple left by the evening train amid a shower of -rice, en route for the southern lakes^ where they, intend !

spending the honeymoon. The bride's travelling dres3 was a dark blue satin cloth, and large black hat trimmed with, ostrich feathers. — Uuest.

BIBTHDAY PASTY AT SADDLE HILL

Dear Emnielme, — A very enjoyable birthday Faity took place on Wednesday, 23rd, pt t'ha residence of Mr and Mrs James Gracie, Saddle Hill. The evening \v:,s everything that octtlcl bs desired, and about 40 gticsts spent a most enjoyable time. After the arrival of all tiha giie-sts ar>d a heaity -n-clcciue had been accorded thorn by Mr and Mrs Gra.cie, Miss: Dorcen Gracio was presented with a handsome gold brooch from hoi grandmother (Mis Hall, ef Duncdiii^, ai:d from Miss Harvey a pretty gold b&ngls. Mrs V 7. Jaffray olso presented Miss Gracie with a beautiful birthday c?ke, very tastefully ornairieutsd tvith icings." Many other lit 11 a presents vere giren by iriendfe. Mir Giacie, after thanking the donees for theia kind presents, asked the party to adjourn to the hall, which had b?en tastefully decorated for the dance. Dancing was conianenced at 8.30 p.m., and was indulged in by old and ycun^ alike. Songs were rendered at various irrfarvafg throughout the evening by Messrs C. Herbert, H. Carter, B. Hall, W. Wilson, and D. Callai der, Miss M. Callandc-r, and. Sirs Callander. j Other songs were also given throughout tho I evening by friends, and the time went so quickly and pleasantly that there was not % dull moment till supper was announced, the happy guests sitting down to a sumptuous repast, which was heartily enjoyed by all. After stipper vaikras gcrues followed," and dsinoing was again indulged in, fruit being handed round at intervals! Mrs Gracie wore a crash skirt, with pretty Indian siik blouse anci handsome lace collai ; little Miss Gracie, white ; Mrs W. Jaffiay, da.rk skirt and crushed strawberry silk blouse; Mrs A. Harvey, pretty figiued silk with deep lace yoke; Miss Sohcfield, stylish white blouse, brown skirt, anrt silver belt; Miss Meson, red silk blouse and black skirt; Miss Seivis, pale blue bloaise; Misses M, and S. Call£hder, black; Miss C. Jaflray, black, with la.cc collar; Miss J. JrfLray, redi; Miss B. Callacder, white paque; Misses Harvey, white muslin ; Misses A., J., and M. Jaffray, pretty delaines. Music "wfca kindly supplied by Mr B. Hall and Mass Mary Jaffray. The guests spent ?. most enjoyable e'.ening 1 , and. the party dispersed at ebout 3 a m.. after singing "Auld long syne" 2nd thanking Mr and Mrs Giacie for l-neii kindness. PANSY.

D^ar Emmeline, — Could you kindly oblige me by answering in your Ladies' page the figures of the set dances. — 1 am, etc i; Subscribes.

I Quadriliea. First Figure : La Pantalon\ — Top and bottom couples rights and lefts. Set to partner?, turn, ladies' chain, half promenade, promenade uorosj, half promenade, promenade to places. Side couples repeat Second Figure : Double L'Ete.— Top and bottom coupes advance and retire, cross over, ud vance and retire, cross to places, set to partners, turn. Sids -souples repeat. The figure is rej peaked. j Ihjiid Figure: La Poule.— Top lady and bottom gent cross over, giving right hand ; recross, giving left hand ; top gent and bottom lady advance, taking their partners' right hands, and fall in line ; balance, half promenade to opposite side ; top lady and bottom gent advance and reti-e, advance and retire, curtseying anil bowing ; couples half promenade, promenade to places. Top gent and bottom lady repeat. Sido couples repeat. Fourth Figure: La Pastorale.— Top gent lead partner to opposite side to the bottom gent, who adyances and retires ; advance, leaving ladies with top gent ; advance and retire, hand 3 round, promenade to opposite side, promenade to places. Bottom and &\de couples repeat. Fifth Figure: La Finale.— Hands round, advance and retire, set to partners, turn, top and bottom couples half promenade, promenade, half promenade, pre lnenade to places, set to partners, turn, ladies' rhain, hands round. Side couplesi repeat. This figure is repeated. Sixth Figure : Flirtation.— Hands round, advance and retire, set to corners, turn, ladies in the centre. Repeat four times. Lancerg. Stiist Figure.— Top lady and bottom g6n«e» man advance and retire, advance to centre and turn, return to pace*; top and bottom couple* cross to opposite tides, retire to places ; all srfc to corners. Second connles and sides repeat. Second Figure.— Top couple advance acd ra{pre, advance again and turn to places, form line; top and bottom couples advance and return, advance again and turn partners to places. Second couples and sides repeat. Third Figure.— Ladies advance and retires curtsey to each other and then to their partners, ladies hands across, go half round, change hand* and retire (during tbi-3 each gentleman goina round on the outside the opposite way to hi* partner), turn panneis, and repeat over threo times. Fourth Figure.— Top and bottom gentleman leads partner to couple on the right, to whom they bow, doing tbe same to the left counle • set to partners, turn right and left. Sides 'couple* ••epeat. Fifth Figure. — Commence with music, grand .'ham, turn partners ; top couple promenade in tho centre, return to places with tbeir backs to tha sot; all fall in— gentlemen to the right, ladies to the left; return— gentlemen marching to tho left, ladies to the right ; form line, advance and retire, turn partners ; bottom, right, and left tousles repeat, and fini&h witk grand chain. Caledonians* ; Fibss ."Figure.— Tup and bottom couples hands across, set to partneis, and tura ; ladies' chain, half promenade and cross to opposite side, repeat to place-*. Side couples repeat. Second Figure.— Top gentleman advances and retires twice ; set to corners and turn, retaining the lady ; promenade round to places. Bottom and s-ide gentlemen repeat. Third Figure.— Top lady and bottom gentlemun advance and retire, advance again and turn, to places ; top and bottom couples cross over, re turn to places ; set to corners and turn ; all join hands, advance and retire, turn partners. Second and sides repeat. Fourth Figure.— Top lady and bottom gsnt'e. man advance to centre and stop; top ?ady and bottom gentleman repeat; turn partners to places— ladies to the right, gentlemen to oheleft'; vvhea meeting partners turn, promenade to places and turn. Second and side couples repeat Fifth Figure. — Top coupls promenade round —ladies to the centre and retire, gentlemen tha same ; sstto partners and turn half grand chain, promenade to places, turn partners ; ladies an<j gentlemen set in oppoiite directions , turn part* nerd. Second couples and sides reseat.