ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2539, 12 November 1902, Page 67

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

Dear Emmeline, — Linen is the favourite material for useful frocks this summer, but the fact should be kept in mind that there ■are only a few varieties^ which " make up successfully. These consist of the coarsegrained French linen trimmed with Irish crochet point or guipure lace, or piped and -tabbed with bands of pique, numerous little gilt or- fancy buttons giving a finish to the dress.- Another more expensive variety is silk linear "which is one of this -season's _ novelties. It is true they .are not cheap, hut their loose surface and silky sheen make them infinitely preferable. The trimming of these toilettes is their own selvedges, which axe usually somewhat fanciful, in black and ■white,' red and black, or mauvre and green. Occasionally they are of a pretty tartan or plaid design, and are arranged in mitrings round the skirt, and form the tabs and pipings on the bodice. There is generally a -selection possible in a. whole gamut of shades of blue, 'from the palest to the darkest. Grey tones are also numerous, with an undertone of pink or green. . The smart little coat depicted could be 'truthfully termed ;a -sac before. It is newer -than . the" .Eton coat "or banded bolero, and ' 'is arranged in box-pleats with a coarse lace 'Collar; "-If is worn' with a-iafc trimmed with -~shoux. and ends' of bright emerald green silk,

■while the waistband is of a corresponding shade of green leather. These brightly polished leather belts with leather buckle in all -shades are quite the latest novelty, and' one --which renders many an- otherwise plain costume" quite distingue. Bright green, or a pleasant orange tone of leather, is particularly smart. There is another belt '- which is also new, and is made in the shape of a Swiss belt, both back and front ending in loops and cords at the side. This is made of coarse crochet twist. White mohair of a coarse make can be effectively turned in boating gowns, and can stand any amount of hard wear. A dress of this kind' looks well piped with red and trimmed with coarse lace. Nothing xeally looke smarter as a trimming on white than the deep ecru grass lawn or yak laces, still lately a feeling has been evinced for embroidery of all sorts. The oldfashioned, crewel -work has again been revived, and offers an opportunity for industrious fingers to employ spare minutes and half-hour* in the working 1 of floral or fanciful designs in different colours, to be afterwards turned into collars or cuffs, or bandings -of an ornamental character. "Teneziffe" embroidery harmonises well with linen toilettes. The pretty hat sketched is of fine straw bent into shape and trimmed with rosee

and lace. Another charming style I saw lately evinced a more picturesque tendency, being trimmed solely by a scarf of lace draped on the brim, while a cluster of pale pink-shaded banksia. roses lifted the hat •up, from the hair. It -was secured to the head by long strings of pale pink gauze coming right across the crown and down on either side, where it was tied, the ends being left long. Very becoming to a young face are the hats of drawn tulle draped with lace, with large undulating brima, and in some instances these follow closely on the lines of the- coal-scuttle bonnet of olden times. These hats are eminently becoming from a front view to x small-featured face, and, ol course, go well with a short-waisted gown, but one cannot deny that, seen from the back, they are not without faults. There is, however, in the world of millinery quite a, noticeable tendency towards modes whose chasms -are usually confined to autumn. For instance, fruit and feathers are more worn by the ultra-fashionable than flowers. Yeddaa straw is very much worn, especially by thoae women who are wearied of the rather übiquitous Panama. ' ; This charming <Jress is made of white cry- ( staVHne, a. silky, wiry material which does '.not crush or soil easily. It is trimmed with deep-coloured Irish guipure, making » most effective contrast. The band and ohou are of tu-" wtnicular tone of green termed vert amaiKSA The wide liat is trimmed with creamy roses and foliage. ,-The bodice is plentifvjljr tanked. §&& jft. ftt& wiihoufc ft

Black and white has been much en evidence this summer, and white muslins and

zephyrs spotted with black mate up into very chic gowns. There are some particularly charming clear muslins of this description, and these have, for the most part, a wide gash worn round the waist, falling in ends on the' skiit benind. Everything in these dresses is studied for picturesque effect, and one very pretty bodic* had a crossover triple cape or fichu piped with white satin, the sleeves being gathered closely to the arm on the shoulders and falling in a wide bishop's sleeve to the wrist, where they are tied in with white satin ribbons. This is the shape which the newest sleeve -takes, the gathers at the top of the arm giving a sloping appearance to the shoulder 3, which, of course, emphasises the leaning fashion is taking towards the modes which were fashionable ip the early days of the late Queen. Theee muslin gowns should^ be lined with muslin made full, as it gives the bodice a softer effect and is ooolfo than silk, — Tours truly, COQUETTE.