UPS AND DOWNS IN CHINA.

Otago Witness, Issue 2631, 17 September 1902, Page 71

UPS AND DOWNS IN CHINA.

PAGES FROM THE DIARY OF MR W. S. STRONG. Edited by Eldred J. D. Hekct/s, M.A., B.Sc.

(Maps, plans, etc., drawn by Mr Strong.) . XIV.— (FURTHER TRAVELS. Km Hsien, January 15, 1902. — Since last I wrote here I have had just time enough to jot down incidents^jn. my pocket diary as they occurred, and that in a way that I find very difficult to spell out again. However, the remaining days at King Fu •were spent in confirming the believers there, both by public meetings and privately. The evenings were occupied in Gospel meetings. I thank God for good health, without which one could not go on uninterrupted with such work ; for it is really wearing to both body and mind. As one got to know the people better it was found that a great many quarrels had to be settled between them; -and. peacemaking became a great part of mr ministration to -them. The many meetings held on my last Sunday there all tad for their subject "peace' as between brother and brother. One of the most interesting cases, which, however, tried me eorely and took several days to settle, was ope where one of the parties was carrying the wooden collar* for a fine of tls. 140 as the result of unjust indictments, in which another Christian was involved. This case ■was settled in Church Court, -when the party involved paid tls. 40 of the fine and the accused paid tls. 100. Had the magistrate been just he would have dismissed the case, but for the 75 per cent, accruing to him he let the guilty ones off because they were poor, and punished the innocent for the sake of silver. If I did what the British Consul expects one to do — viz., report such an unrighteous magistrate — he would soon get his marching orders. This ibe knows well, but also that Protestant missionaries seek by all means and at much cost to avoid their courts. I let him know my opinion of his judigment, as I asked him to deal justly (in large letters) in future cases, according to paragraph in the treaty. He sought to overwhelm me with kindness, and even to give a public dinner, which I, of course, could not accept. Oh, it is no secret that the hatred of officials towards missionaries has its source in the righteousness which we preach and in which, we seek humbly to walk. I gained the goodwill of the literati in the city, who showed; by " many things appreciation of a Gospel Hall in their city. ?*efoTe leaving I was invited to dinner with i 'ie highest family in the city — that of Fu, Ji'itilin— the highest Chinese degree, gene,t'ly ren3ered "M.A."; those who hold it !iay occupy the highest position at court. ', he brother of my host, a man of 65 years, 3 an inquirer, and the simple faith of this °.amed man cheered one's heart. One of

je most touching incidents was a rase of Ihe conversion of an old scholar of 77. He c.LUie one night to hand me a paper, which proved to be a bank receipt for tls. 100 (£ls). as a donation to the Lord's work in that city. When I asked him whether he •was able to give such a large sum he said, •with a face lit up with the joy of his heart and tears flowing freely : " Oh, should I not, since He has taken away 80 years ©f sin, and saved me noxr, so near the grave, from hell !"

Another incident which seems hard to understand has reference to the robber chief previously mentioned. A few days before I left he came to me, saying that he had Fome business, and) could not wait ; but his friends would follow me. This I could not accept. I then told him pointedly and plainly what it meant to be a Christian — that a thief would be a thief no longer, a robber a robber no more ; a gambler, opium smoker, etc., etc., would have to leave all these things. This he said he understood very clearly, and added, " Oh, what a good ♦loctrine that is !" All the time I knew i hat he and his father are being hunted and ■evidence sought to prove their guilt in hav3^g killed some 12 men ; but it appears that -i he mandarins are afraid of them. Before >aving he bought 100 copies of the Gospels and Acts, bound together, and said ihat he would instruct and exhort all his "x-iends to repent and believe. May God rblcss this man, and whatever motives, pure or impure, he may have, may he come to the knowledge of the truth. I had a very grand send-off from King Fu. A number of the Christians came to see me off. As for the presents, when I looked over them I found that if put together the.^ would have made a pig and a-half, and as for fowls and ducks and pheasants, it looked like a poultry show. Two soldiers marched in the front, carrying a fowl each ; others hung on the chair and on the loads, each singing its own tune. Oh, I was glad that it was not a living pig and a-half they had eiven hip, for in that case the music would have been too distracting ! From King Fu to Kao Hsieu is only seven miles by road, and 12 by water, and I found that I could go from King Fu to Kao Hsien down river and from Kao H'-'en to King Fu down river, too. with the pleasure of shooting 70 rapids thrown in — a form of travelling which is much more exhilarating than a switchback. The sceneries were very fine all the way. Five li from this city I found, to my surprise (pleasure and displeasure mixed), that the magistrate had arranged for a guard of honour to receive me, consisting of 10 soldiers in red, drawn up in line, on a bridge, all equipped with Martini-Henry rifles, and over them an officer in full dress on horseback. Arriving on the bridge, I was presented with the cards of the highest officials in the town, wishing me welcome. Several retainers took their places at the side of my chair, and the soldiers fell into line. I was led up to a small tower facing and- overlooking the bridge. Here the official himself, on behalf of his fellow officials, wished me welcome : but for pressing business they would have been there them•elVM, He assured me of lull protection

and said that they would do anything to make my stay pleasant. They offered me the Examination Hall for my use. On inspection I found it to consist of a labyrinth of shanties, but with two halls on each side of the entrance. Accommodation is here provided for several thousands, and I pictured the poor fellows, who must often have to spend 36 hours on a narrow seat, packed like herrings and without food or sleep, there to bring out and pump their wooden brains for materials for prize essays, subsequently emerging from the place like pallid ghosts.

I did not take up my residence there, and am shut up in a dark hole, which, but for the breaches in the wall and the paucity of tiles, would have been dark indeed. The innkeeper is a believer, and we have just cleared out his idols. We have crowded meetings every night, when the inner court is filled. This is the height of winter, and I find it a little trying to speak long in the open air night after night. Idol-destroying is a daily occurrence, and we bless the Lord for the many who in this city have turned from idols to serve the living God. Members of several of the most honourable homes have believed, and a large number of scholars have called and inquired as to the Gospel, many of whom have already believed. Two B.A.s from a city two days' journey from here arrived yesterday. They found the Lord a couple of months ago while on a visit to Sin Fu, where they came daily to my house to study the Bible. On hearing of my arrival in the district, they came to make sure of my visit to their " unworthy city," where many have heard their testimony and are anxious to" hear more. The Christians here are going to build their own church, and it will be my strong endeavour to make the work in this district self-supporting.

I am getting too much of feasting just now, and it is rather hard to buckle on for a two-hours' meeting after a threehours' feast. To-morrow at 10.30 a feast at the house of a country gentleman, where I am to turn out idols ; in the afternoon, about 4, a feast at another gentleman's house, where I am to meet several renowned scholars ; then a meeting at 8 ; next day the formal opening of the chapel (a temporary one) with a feast, when 200 or more alleged believers will take part. It will be like the day at King Fu.

January 21. — The opening ceremony was duly performed, but I could take no part in the feast — not feeling very well — and had to give up all pork-eating and take to Chinese arrowroot. My temperature rose rather high,- and I had to do my best to look after myself; but to be ill in a dirty, damp, and windy Chinese inn, in the middle of winter, is no happy experience. I took part, however, in the presentation ceremony of scrolls from the city- gentry, congratulating me on my success in this city ; also the presentation of scrolls to these Christians from tne Christians at King Fu, both of which took place on the stage of the official pavilion at the military competition ground, in sight of a tremendous crowd. I wound up by taking a photo of the lot, and then excused myself, feeling {hat I should have to do no more. I did thank God that on Sunday night my temperature was almost normal again, and I felt justified in continuing my journey.

The noise in and around this inn from sunrise till 2 and 3 in the morning went on without a moment's breathing space, and I leave the reader to imagine the circumstances if he can ; but for two nights I had to listen to a quarrel between an old lady of 60 in the next room to me, with nothing but plastered bamboo as a partition, and another lady in the house across the street. In the face of my entreaties to btop, this quarrel went on till past 2 in the morning. None of them will stop, for that would mean defeat. Both parties go on — no stopping with them — and I can only say, in the interests of science, that this is the nearest attempt I have seen to the solving of the problem of perpetual motion. If one happened to slumber, one was sure to awake to the sound of these ?ame tongues wagging.

Two phases are very prevalent among the Chinese, neither of which I can understand. (1) You watch some Chinese, and you fail to find out when they sleep ; of that class the cook in this inn is an example. (2) Others there are who make you wonder if they are ever awake. You need not go far to find both these cases exemplified.

January 21. — Loh Kia Chang. — I took my departure from Kao Hsien yesterday morning, praising God for the gracious work He has accomplished there. Out of the many one had to see and inquire about I entered 80 names of such as professed to believe in the Lord Jesus Christ, and these will now come under infraction, and will also be watched by the thiee managers whom I appointed — men who, though they have only lately professed to believe, have long known the truth, and are well known to me, as thoy are fruit of the Gospel meetings at Sin Fu during the last months. The father of one of them sent word to j «ay that, though he was not a believer, he I did not disbelieve, and was offering a very -good house for sale at a small figure. I went to see it early on Monday morning, and was satisfied. The Christians will buy it themselves, and do all the fitting up of it, with two rooms for me when I visit them. Thus ended another glorious mission in His precious name. With me remains, however, the burden of that young church, which but for His promises could not be borne.

I and my party had a great send-off. Some hundred interested ones had gathered at daybreak. They paid all my coolies, and sent a travelling cook and kitchen to look after me as far as this place. I was privileged to see many signs as sure evidence of divine power at work, which gladdened my heart.* I have got my horse up from the city, and am once more m the saddle, which would have been a comfort had I not lost my Australian stock-«addle during last year's trouble. I had almost promised myself not to have a h3rte again, but 1 find it does not pay > to take walks of from 20 to 40 miles a day and expect to be able to do good work, especially on Chined* roads.

Sedan chairs are too expensive in these quarters.

Either I have lost some of my fearlessness, or my nerves are not so strong as when I was in the north. Perhaps my age has something to do with it ; anyhow, I must co.nfess to feeling a bit like losing confidence to-day as we rode step, step, step down steep hills, on a track not 4ft wide, with 500 ft of perpendicular rock precipice at the outer edge, beneath which one could hear the torrent roaring. Then there were rivers to cross on narrow bridges ; one bridge of six spans rose about 20ft above the rocky river, across which it conducted us on sandstone slabs only 2£ft wide. Then, again, came paths between ricefie'.ds, to fail into which would entail a very uncomfortable mud bath. My horse did slip into one, but I managed to get off in time, after which several of us had to drag him out. If one were to get off whenever he met with a bad piece of road one would be off most of the time.

We arrived at Loh Kia Chang late in the afternoon. The coolies had gone further,, and I was left with but my bare bedding, tooth-brush, soap, and towel, and as far as reading went only one copy of the Psalms, but that precious portion is surely enough. After our meal we had a meeting, and although it was held in the inner court, with doors closed, the place was soon • full. Several young converts — educated men — from Kao Hsien accompany me of their own accord ; they gave very nice testimonials, and, their families being well known, their words hadi power with this people. At the close 10 men signified their wish to become Christians. With them we 'had further conversation, and I entered their names as listeners. They promised to meet on Sundays and read the Scriptures, which I have faith to believe will make them wise unto salvation. With many heartfelt prayers I left them, commending them to the Great Shepherd of the sheep.

Heard a big noise in the night. Got up, and found that my horse had been playing at Samson. Having been moored next to a still, he had meditated a survey of its contents, and found no difficulty in pulling out of the wall both window and frame, to which he had been tied, leaving an opening 6ft square. There was no glass in the window, only bars, and I found him in the distillery in the most uncomfortable position, standing on these bars, trying to get his head up. Happily, he did not know how to move his feet ; if he could have accomplished this he would certainly have disgraced himself, for near him stood a large vessel containing a brew of corn in fermentation. I have never seen a horse drunk yet, and it would have been a grief to me to find mine the first.

We left after breakfast, and when only a few miles on the road I received a guard of honour, sent by the mandarin at RuinLing- Hsien, consisting of 16 braves, all with the big character meaning "Hero" on their backs and breasts. They are armed with specimens of " weapons used before Christ, and perhaps 2000 years before, that ; but the Chinese still keep them sharpened. The tiger eyes on their hats, which are supposed to frighten and penetrate the enemy, seemed to be new. Such weapons put fear into the Chinese. Three of the party carried guns equally ancient, and there were also two banner-bearers. Thus is a missionary honoured to-day, and there is no doubj but that this display has a good effect upon the Chinese. It shows them that now they may believe the Gospel, and that the foreigner cannot bs very bad if the mandarin thus publicly receives him. But, above all, the Chinese are certainly giving heed to the truth, and my expectation and faith run high. Amen. " Half way I was received at a place called Hai In Chang by a large crowd, and a cannonade of fireworks burst out. The people hailed me, and led my horse to a room prepared. Here they had appointed the village elder to receive me. after which some 20 men came forward, saying that they wished to be instructed in the Gospel. A crowd of over 200 people soon filled the place, and we spent an hour preaching. Their big man got very interested, and said to the people, "Surely we will all believe that Gospel." Then to me, "Teacher, I wiH not worship idols any more." He was a 8.A., and as such was well listened to, and they all looked) pleased when he quoted Confucian classics, where the true God is mentioned. "But, oh 7" he said "we have these generations missed the road and lost all traces of Him.'' Having no books, the only thing I could do was to copy off for them the Apostle*' Creed and the Lord's Prayer, explaining what they meant. I left, hoping to visit them again soon. They will get books fiom this place, and then* meet on the Lord's Day to rpad together. There were thousands of people outside this city to meet me. A large company, representing such as wieh special instruction, appeared in full dress. Among them I noticed many B.A.'s. They gave me a great reception, and after 'that fiieworks all the way to the inn. t have many friends in this city, and when I managed to get clear of the crowd seveial came forward who had visited me and heard the Gospel in my home. Eight in particular, all of the leading gently, were delighted to see me. They began to send presents at once. One. a banker, on learning of the miserable quarters appointed for me (for the very best of inns here are awful), offered me a room in his house, and I am now exceedingly well off. He allowed me a big hall for use in preaching, which got full in no time, and outside the street was blocked for traffic. We tried to preach, and the people inside were quiet, but the noise outside was deafening, and we had to give it up. The only Gospe l they got was a couple of hymns, which I sang s?olo from a large sheet with diameters big enough for all to see. While I sang everybody kept quiet.

Sunday, 25th. — It has been a very busy week with meetings every night and interviews with inquirers the whole day long. The Lord is continuing to bless in this place, and every night men have come forward to inquire further. The most noticeable fact is that tome 50 B.A.« 2 oi whom

about a dozen are Lin Sengs (a medium degree between B.A. and M.A.), have professed conversion. These are making quite a stir in the city, and they say that every scholar of consequence in the city has been to see me and inquire as to that truth which makes so many of their fellow scholars accept the doctrine.

(To be continued.)