ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS. "THY WILL BE DONE." WEEPING WOMEN OUT OF DATE. HOME INTERESTS.

Otago Witness, Issue 2631, 17 September 1902, Page 63

ILLUSTRATED FASHIONS.

" THY WILL BE DONE."

WEEPING WOMEN OUT OF DATE.

HOME INTERESTS.

Dear Etnmeline, — Muslin gowns this summer have achieved the acme of beaiity in colouring and texture, and the prices are so exceedingly moderate that it is within the power of everyone to possess themselves of a pretty and dainty dress for suray days. Indeed, every ensuing season the materials turned out by the manufacturers seem more beautiful than ever, both as regards colouring and design, till their fascinations are almost bewildering. Perfectly pure white gowns will be much in evidence this season, and look most charming when expressed in spotted or clear muslin or in the newest Boft silky-surfaced linca. Never were silks, taffetas, linens, .and lacep so alluring as now, and also never, may it be said, were they so cheap or in such variety as regards both pattern and style. A happy

compromise between the airy gossamer fabrics and the heavier materials is given ia the dainty toilette illustrated. It is of creamy white nun's veiling trimmed with guipure lace of a rather greyish tint, commonly termed "twine-coloured." The style is at once simple and smart, which is the aim of the mo3t refined followers of fashion.

Some of the smartest blouses and bodices at present are made with elbow sleeves, a full frill of lace generally depending from immediately below the elbow, where the sleeve ceases. For outdoors to cover the arms from the elbow, long suede gloves of soft tan shadee are in vogue, and are very becoming, while certain soft tones of grey are also much in favour, and harmonise well with some toilettes. Two or three buttons are, of course, perfectly useless, and hence the re-introduction of the long mousquetaire 6uede. Some have Euede or .kid for the hand part, with lace continued up to the elbow ; while others, which are also exceediagly pretty and faehionable, are inlet with lace medallions on the outside of the arm. A very picturesque and quaint revival of a pretty old fashion is to be found in the lace mittens which are worn with the elbow, gauntletted sleeves, which give very much the appearance of a tightfitting continued lace tleeve. There is a marked tendency towards gloves with gauntlets made ki every tone of tan and grey kid, while cream doeskin will also be worn. Another somewhat quaint revival is shown by a Beries of coloured kid tucks on the wrists by four-button gloves. White kid gloves have the wrist pa.it comprised of alternate narrow tucks of white and blue or green blue kid. The shoulder cape sketched is of white chiffon, covered in tiny pin spots in black. The edges of the frille are trimmed with narrow black Valenciennes lace edging.

These neck ruffles (as they used to he railed) teem to be a necessary complement to a really dressy toilette, but they should not bo affected by a ehort-necked, stout woman, whose appearance they will only effectually mar. A tall woman, to whom Nature has not been liberal in the matter of flesh, is, on the other hand, much improved by the addition of one of these smart capes, whose fluffy frills sod flowing streamers fill up the figure and soft-en up any angularities of form. The long, flowing ends are in nearly «very instance composed of loilted chiffon. Narrow satin ribbon i 3 often used as a trimming, while little lace or eilk appliques or small petalled flowers are intermingled ■with the lace, silk, oet, or chiffon of which these dainty complements of the toilettes are composed. Parasols and en-tout-car are now much in request. The newest parasols aro very dome-shaped, which somehow bat the effect of making them appear smaller than they really ere. The prettiest samples are lined with drawn chiffon, while the outsid© cover of satin is rendered as beautiful as a flower by numerous frill 3of chiffon or lace. A charming specimen made for mo of this season's brides was of blnt-h pink satin lined with drawn i\ory chiffon, the ©ufcajdo being covered with alternate fulls ■tj flhiffon and lace, the chiffon, fxiila Lunx

edged by a ruching of tiny pink Banksiso roses, a small cluster of which, with birds and foliage, was fastened to the whiteenamelled, crystal -handled stick by narrow pink ribbons. The summer gown whose charms are depicted is of pale pink batiste with a deep flounce of embroidery at the hem, while narrow lines of the same embroidery ornament the top of the flouace, and form a

finish to the dainty unhned yoke, which is of drawn net studded here and there with raised embroidered flowers. This is a very dainty toilette and a serviceable one withal, for batiste washes well, and the lasting qualities of embroidery aro known to all. Lace is lighter looking, but will not stand such hard wear as embroidery. A pretty short chine eilk sunshade would go well with this drees, especially if it possessed a border in black hair-pin stitch. The handles of both en-tout-car and sunshades are of an ornate description this season, some of the prettiest showing an enamelled stick finishing in a clear crystal ball covered with a fine network of gold, while a little gold chain replaces the cord and tassels of previous years. One (or more) dainty charms depend from the gold chain, and these can be varied to suit the dress.— Yours truly ' COQUETTE.

So often the words are lightly sung by lips whicn have never yet learned the full depth of their meaning, but to-day I seem to hear them from every side rise up to God with anguished intensity. Before me lies an open letter, and as I read its pages I seem to see the Angel of Death hovering over the form of a fair little boy. He was perhaps the most tenderly loved of all the household, and yet by his bedside kneels bis fair-headed mother, an intensely loving, therefore an intensely suffering, woman, whispering amid J>ears and sobs., "Thy will be done," not as of force, but in deep soul knowledge that her Father, all-loving and all wise, can work no ill to her or hers ; and tho.se whispered words, " like Abraham's faith, are counted righteousness." Then again I stand by an open coffin — oh, so tiny — and the face of the little one within is very lovely. She had reached that age when every action, every cooing, prattling sound won from those around a chorus of admiration ; but Death had bilenced the baby prattlo and stilled the baby movements. The parents had Given in tears and pain The flower they most did love, For they knew ihey would find her yet again la the Kingdom of God above. And something of the peace reflected in the sweet, death-touched face they had &o loved reaches their sad hearts as they realise that she has been gathered to that better, purer home ere one blight or stain 1 of earth has soiled her soul. Death plays no part where next I hear those words, unless it be such as blights fond hopes and overthrows each cherished plan. In the silence and loneliness of his lodgings, far from home and friends, a young man bows his bright head in sorest wrestling with and rebelling against the blow -n hich with swift resistlessness has blighted his fondest hopes and overthrown his every plan. The battle within the proud young spirit is long and fierce, for Youth ever chafes at curb-reins and rebels against standing still ; would fain go its own impetuous way, regardless of all save the accomplishment of its heart's desire, assured that it is good and worthy of fulfilment. Youth does not know yet of the grandeur and beauty of the lessons taught by God in life's long waiting hours, into w hich He is ever so careful to send &weet fragrant flowers and tender helpfulnesses. They respond more eagerly to the command "Go* or "Do" than to the tender invitation "Come thou apart with me into a desert place and rest awhile,"' never dreaming that in the "desert place" they may be strengthened for future vi ork oi warfare. So that when the cuib rein is drawn on the impatient spirit, oi it is led into some deep vale of waiting, the stiuggle is often haid eie it says in meekness oi faith, "Thy will be done ' ; but once it is said, then the eyes are opened to see many beauteous things where before they had thought none existed. "Thy will be done." Up, up to God float the sorrowful tear-laden words. Now from the mother, uhose loving, hopeful heait waited in patience through long unxioiih months, to welcome home the boy who had won honours in the field afar, and now leains that he has gone on to that other home: so they are waiting stillmot her and son — but now he waits to welcome, she to be welcomed; now they rise in gasping whisper from him whom the bore sickness of 3'ears bus lobbed of strength to toi! for those he so deaily love- ; up, in br»ve 4 though, trembling, ivC^euii from true

hearts toiling amid uncongenial surroundings and at uncongenial work ; up. up from worn and aged ones, who have long proved the goodness of that will, whose feet are so near the sweet resting place that it is almost as visible to the bodily eye as to the eye of faith ; up from the strong in the midday heat of toil, from the young hot hearts in their impulsive earnestness ; up in sweet lisping prayers from such little ones as were the tender care of Him whose example we follow when we say, even in sore anguish of spirit, "Thy will be done," and often, though they know it not, "there appears an angel unto them, strengthening them" — strengthening them to overcome seeming impossibilities, to endure bravely and patiently that from which both flesh and spirit shrinks, to wait, to watch, to toil, to lose their own wills in that greater, wiser Will, and still feel blest in the yielding. VIOLET.

Men have laughed and women have wept for ages. Women's tears have been featured far more than they deserve, and the heroines of the old-fashioned novels must have been a damp, redi-eyed lot of girls even in their .most joyous moments. Ihe fact is that women have overdone their crying, and have allowed any amount of health, courage, and force to ooze from their tear-glands. Weeping in the old days was really as fashionable as fainting, and the poems of Moore and Byron dwell ecstatically upon the tears of the various Julias and Marys of their songs, so crying spells must have had their charms in those days, as well as ringlets and wasp waists.

But the woman of the future will laugh, and will be all the better for it. Girls had) never been allowed to cultivate a humorous sense as they grew up until within quite recent years, when intelligence is gaining such victories in the nursery. Boisterous conduct or loud laughter have always been reproved in little girls, while in a boy such exuberance is regarded as a natural and healthy sex attribute. This is one of the reasons that the humorous sense, which in children is usually evidenced in the love of frolic, is killed in the feminine nature. To laugh is rude. That constitutes the law for the womanchild in whose brain-cells mischievous fun is beginning to bubble. The result of all this is that few women know how to laugh. The laugh of the child is repressed and it develops into the giggle of the girl. Then the giggle is criticised, and many women continue, in their efforts to be polite, to gurgle and gasp into their handkerchiefs until the end of the chapter. — Woman's Home Companion.

VEAL SCALLOP. Cut, veal from the leg or other lean part into pieces the size of an oyster, have a seasoning of salt, pepper, a.ud a little mac« , rub some over each piece; dip in well-beaten egg and then into crumbs, and fry as jou do oysters. HEATHER CAKE. • One pound of flour, *lb butter, Jib sugar, four eggs well beaten. Mix all together with milk and a tablespoonful of baking powder; beat till quite smooth ; pour the mixtuie into a well-greased tin, sprinkle sugar on the top, and bake in a moderate oven. CHEESE PUDDING. Toast four slices of bread, and butter each slice; put one slice in the bottom of a baking dish , put over lin of chopped chee&e, and on top of this another slice of toast, and so continue until all are used ; add sufficient milk to just come to the surface of the biead. Bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes, and send at once to the table. BAKED FILLETED STEAK. A filleted steak makes a very bavoury dish when treated as follows — Slice a carrot, an atuon, and a turnip; put them, with the steak, into a baking tin, add a thin slice of fat bacon, and cover all with water; bake in the oven for 40 minutes. CHOCOLATE CAKE. Cream together Jib butter and Jib castor sugar ; beat in, one by one, four eggs. Grate J!b oi good chocolate, put it in a small paai \s-ith a tablespoonful of milk, and stir it ov-er tht- fire till it is smoothly melted. Then add the chocolate and milk to the butter, sugar, etc. Mix together 3oz flour, 2oz ground rice, and a small teaspoonful of baking powder. Add tliete to the other ingredients. Put tho mixture into a shallow tin, lined with greased paper. Bake carefully and slowly for one hour. When cold, pour chocolate icing over, and decorate with chopped almonds or desiccated cocoanut. These decorations mu=t be shaken over and slightly pressed on before the lemg sugar is quite set. To make chocolate icing, grate 3oz chocolate. Rub Jib icing sugar tiuough a hair sieve. Put the chocolate in a saucepan with half a gill of water. Let this get hot, then add the icing sugar, and stir with a wooden spoon till the sugar is melted. If too stiff, add a little more water, but it must be sufficiently thick to well coat the back of your spoon, or it will run eff the cake. When making icing never let it boil, or it will crack when poured on. SAVOURY MOULD. Take 21b minced meat, 3oz breadcrumbs and boiled nee, one teaspoonful chopped herbs, parsley, anchovy sauce, Worcester sauce, two •eggs, pepper, salt; first mix all the dry ingiedients, stir in a gill of gravy, beat the eggs, add to tlie other mixture, gx-eo.se a pudding b^sin, line it with blown bieadcrumbs, and pack m the meat; place a buttered paper over the mould and steam one hour and a-half; garnish with any boiled vegetables, and pour over a good gra^y. TURKISH DELIGHT. Soak a \oz packet of gelatme overnight in one teacupful of cold water. Put Hlb of sugar in an enamelled saucepan witli a small teacupful of water. Stand till sugar 18 dissolved, then add gelatine, juice of two lemons, ( one teu<;pooiiful of essence of lemon. Stir till it boils, boil eight minutes. Rinse two dishes m cold v.atcr, pcur the liustme m each, and colour one with cocbihtal. Stand over night, cut in scjudrcs, and roll in icing bugar. "S?*ipi*t»" a&s fox recipes ifii exfifta

cakes, cocoanut icing, German biscuits, and icing foi the latter. CREAM CAKES. Half pint water, 4 eggs, half pint cream, Jib butter, Jib flour, 2oz jam. Put the butter and water into a saucepan ; when it boils, stir in the flour, and cook for a few minutes; take from the fire, beat in the eggs one at a time, beaming well for five minutes; butter some baking sheets, dTop on to them some pieces of the mixture, bake in a steady oven for half an .hour, open and fill in with whipped cream and jam. COCOANUT ICING. Grate lib cocoanut, add to it lib icing sugar and as much white of egg as will make a soft stiff paste. GERMAN BISCUITS. One cupful flour, one cupful ground

rice, one cupfui sugar, 2oz butter, iwj eggs, half packet mixed spice, ,one teaspoonful soda, two teaspoonfuls crenm cf. tartar. Mis all together, roll out, and cut into Tounde. "When baked stick two together with jam, and ,put icing on top. ICIX<3 FOR GERMAX BISCUITS. To the white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth add Jib icing sugar, spread ou the biscuits, and place in a cool even for a ruiiaite or two to dry.

— One-horse power, ns established amonr engine makers, is the capacity to raise 32,0001b one foot per minute. As this estimate was based upon the ability of the huge draught horses of London, it is abouttwice the avorage power of a horse.