UPS AND DOWNS IN CHINA.

Otago Witness, Issue 2528, 27 August 1902, Page 71

UPS AND DOWNS IN CHINA.

PAGES FROM THE DIARY OF MR W. S. STRONG. Edited by Eldbed J. *D. Hebcvs, M.A., B.Sc. -^Maps-/ plans, et«., drawn by Mr Strong.) No. XI.— SHIPWRECK No. 2. April 15, 12 Midday.— We left Wu Shan yesterday morning, and since then have Iveen climbing up large numbers of rajnds : ,<-wing to the very low -water they are plentiful just now. We have just eDtered the - I'arrow but lovely and picturesque Windbox Gorge (Feng Siang), but against a head wind, which makes progress both dangerous and difficult — very hard work for the poor trackers. April 16. — At the western end of the Wind-box Gorge we pass through a narrow channel called Bellow Gorge. The name is derived from a curiosity about 700 ft up on the perpendicular cliff on the north side of the river in the shape of blacksmith's bellows showing the square holes. In all we counted seven of these wooden cases, about 18in square, piled one on another ~~in a rent of the cliff. Taking into consideration the perpendicular wall, which

rises, I should say, about 300 ft above this rent, and makes it very inaccessible, one could only wonder however these cases came to be there. As to their history, I

have never seen or heard any account.

Further down the river there is to be seen in just such a position on a narrow ledge a coffin, said to be of iron, containing the .remains of an ancient king. Coming out of the gorge we have the feity Kuei Fu in sight, but before reaching ■it coma to the salt wells, which we went on shore to. have a look at. On the north side we saw two wells, the largest being a pool o_f 25rt in diameter, in which the Bait water is oozing up. From the two veils enough water is drawn to give off on evaporation 7000 catties (95001b) of fine

It sells here at 30 cash (Id)

•white salt. * per catty, ont of which the local authorities take their 40 per cent. tax. The process -of evaporation is very simple: each family has its own clay pool, into which the salt water is conveyed, either by means of buckets or by small water races. These races present to the eye a very unique appearance, looking like a large network suspended just high enough for a man to pass underneath. The water is poured into large, cast-iron pots, where it is kept sim-

tinued, but passing Kuei Fu we found low I hills, principally of grey and pale sandstone, | underlying which is limestone conglomerate interstrat:fied with red marl sandstoiw. The height of the hills since has not exceeded 600 ft or 700 ft, with a more gentle slope toward the river. At Yun Yang we noticed the first mountain fort, one of the many which served the people as protections during the Tai-piag rebellion. We are now lying below the Sin Lung rapid, which, though very fierce-looking, is not £C bad as we expected to find it. We watched two big boats going up this afternoon, and it seemed as if the back eddy was the worst difficulty: it sent the boat , up stern first at a tremendous rate, although she was held back by some 100

April 18. — It rained heavily last night, I and continued this morning, so that we cculd not get off before 10.30, by which time the trackers were prepared to make a start. Once away, we passed all the big cargo boats, and went up to the teeth of the rapid with a strong back eddy. About 150 trackers put their J acks to it, • and we came up very safely. | But while we were thus going up without a hitch a large cargo boat that was being tracked up on the other Mdc fared otherwise: all at once one of il*=ir towing lines broke, and she went adrift, coming down upon one of the rocks at a speed of 15 miles. When she struck she capsized, and it was only after a great struggle that the 15 men on board saved themselves out of the foaming and angty water. Being laden with cotton yai-n, she could not j well sink, so the men all clambered up on to her side. WLilst they c'ung there" the junk coatinued her mad ru&li down stream, getting into several whirlpools ; every now and til en we thought she would go right utder, but she got safely down into calmer water, where boats soon flocked around to save the men and take ropes in shore so as to salvage boat and cargo. We did not [ go far to-day — ao wind, and "ather wet — ' but have been in calnrer water. Wan Hsi'2n, April 19. — We arrived at this city about 5.30 this afternoon in safety. On the northern bank of the river goldsand was very evident, and knowing the | small yield the gold-wa*hera had on the south bank, we could not understand why they did. not change the scene of operations. The method of gold-washing uere is very primitive, and certainly the yield at its tery best does not warrant the use of any better or more modern plant. The hills here are very low — sandstone strata and horizontal : in several places they make very strong natural fortb. Many of these hill tops have been so used, and in

mering over a slow fire, and a man takes <>ut the salt with a wooden ladle as it is reduced. One bucket of water (351b) gives ilb of salt. But these wells are only available during five months in the year. As soon as the water of the river rises, this town has to pull up its pegs and remove to higher ground. All the ovens, dams, etc., are swept away, and the population have to find another means of livelihood for the remainder of the year. Just below Kuei Fu -we passed a large boat which had been wrecked. She was aground, but full of water, and the cargo had been unloaded. We reached the city at 5 o'clock, but left again after breakfast this morning. To-day we have done very well, but rapids are constantly occurring, and the strain begins to tell on one. You feel that you have very little security, for dangers truly meet and surround you on all sides. Even when you happen to have a favourable breeze you are always conscious of the fact that and here we are ! Before I finished the sentence we are safe on the top of one, and it looked as if we ■would have been smashed info firewood. !Lhe men got what they call the stopper — a long spar run out at one side from a horiXcntal bar, and, thanks to it, we received only a slight shock. April 17, 3.30. — We have done very well to-day — wind very strong — and have come over the rapids in fine style. '■ Since leaving Wu Shan we have not been able to go oi shore very much, hence the geological part of my diary has suffered. However, we have managed to get enough samples for a general description, Above W» Bhm t&e limestone Jj&rd blue} con*

numerous instances strong forts hare been built : most of the country people had to live in them during the Tai-ping rebellion, and with plenty of grain these forts could hold out against almost auy ancient invading force. __ April 20.— We reached U Lin Chi at 5.30, and as jt is the home of -several of the boatmen we have stopped early tonight. The wind has been very strong to-day, but we have had plenty of rapids, when the trackers have hud to go ashore to pull the boat. On two occasions the towing 1-jne snapped, which always means , a hairbreadth escape. The country to-day I presented a more rural aspect, the hills being much lower, with a more gradual dip towards the river. | 21st. — We have had a very bad day — most exciting, with constant rapids and whirlpools, and just now (7 p.m , almost daik) j they are trying to find a lauding place i among the rock". None of the trackers , could come on board, so with the seven | men they are going to pull her 2T some- ! where. For my part I can't see anything but rocks all round us, with bamboo groves and orchards all over the hillsides. 22nd, 7 p.m. — With head wind and many difficult rapids we have done a very poor day's woik. The country now looks very nice. The hills, wherever one looks, are well populated, and the people in many places busy with their wheat harvest. We visited several gold-washing p.uties which are at work on the riverside, but on inquiry found it very poorly-paid work. Passed the pretty city of Chung Cheo on the north bank. Several gentlemen's houses are very keaiitjMl^ situated, amop^ what <m& seldom '

sees^ — viz., trees in any number allowed to grow undisturbed. Sui Tsih Chang, April 25, 9 p.m.— My fiiary has been neglected since leaving Wan Hsien, owing to a little wrong with the physical man ; I think it is only a slight visitation of some kind of fever — what kind exactly I don't know. Whatever it is, it has made me weak, and I am not np to the oidinary kind of work — not even reading. However, my friend E. is a host in himself, and Jjis medical Toiowledge has seemingly been successful this time. He trusts that I will survive his treatment ; should I not, the next disease will surely be pseudodiagnosis, and thus the last stage worse than the first. We moored last night at St. George's I&land, so called — why I do not know, unless Sir Blakeston, C.M.G. , .^'ho came up here about 40 years ago, moored at it 01 1 St. George's Day, and, himself being of that order, dropped the name in memory of his visit. It is a very pretty island, and no doubt the largest on the great river with the exception of those at the mouth. The size is something like 500 acres at low water, and the kighe&t point about 60ft above the river. A large number of farms were dotted all over, and with the lich crop — some ju&t ready for harvesting — it presented altogether an uncommonly pretty sight for China. Chung King, May 9. — It is now just 14 days since I wrote anything in my diary, but the delinquency has its reason, and may be forgiven when the real cause is stated — a cause, however, which for many a year (aL praise to God !) has not interfered with my duties — viz. , a physical breakdown. After leaving Wan Hsien on the 20th April I was very much aware of the fact that something was wrong with me, and that it was some kind of fever was equally evident. On the 25th I had to confess- to myself that I was not physically fit for anything except bed — my temperature then being 105deg. , and that in the face of a larjje quantity of medicine taken morning, noon, and night. The nest day I felt myself a wrecked man, and longed for Chung King — four days away, — where I knew I could have medical attendance. But ere this haven of expected help was reached we had to go through another wreck experience, which happened on the 26th, about 3 p.m. We were crossing the river, when, through an unexpected drop of the wind, we got into a fierce rapid, which baffled all the physical exertions put forth. The result was that we struck a rock, al which the boat heaved over, and for a moment it looked as if all was over. As we had a woman and two children od board, one's first thoughts were occu-

pied with their safety ; the fever was forgotten, and my head seemed as if turned cool by a miracle. I was able to calm the crew, who flew for their rags and would have jumped in to save themselves; but I tore their belongings from them and put them back in the hold, which was fast filling with water. A Chinaman unable to syve his belongings cea-ses to have much interest in himself, and when I had exerted a good bit of physical firmness the men were soon at work, some rowing, others baling out water, while the best of the crew tried to diminish the rush of wateiby putting a big wadded quilt over the hole ; others showed great ingenuity in passing large coverlets tied together under the boat. The old lady with her children came out to the iiont of the ship, all looking frantic and how ling at the top of their voices. I led them forcibly back to their apartment, whereat they struggled a good deal, all the while reviling me and thinking it a murderous act. As a matter of fact, I felt that if it had not been for their sake I should, in my then condition of health, have left the wreck to its fate and have sought the shore with the crew by the best possible means.

Under promises of reward, etc., the men worked well, and we soon found ourselves near shore — on another rock, but safe Here again the men tried to rescue their belongings ; but I refused, and had now to drive them ashore to secure the boat before another whirlpool should sweep her off. We soon landed the old lady with her children, and after once more encouraging the men to do their best, I felt, as there wag Ro sjore rigfc to life x th&t ft y&iMat>

for me to slacken my nervous strain. This [ I did, and collapsed ; and from that time till I reached Chung King I had three days in bed with a violent headache, sleeplessness, and entire loss of any control over , my nerves. The constant shouting on i board, the drumming, the rapids (where the - suspense was felt terribly), all added sadly

to my sufferings. I reached Chung King on the 29th, and was ordered to bed at once and had the best of everything. lam now, thank God, up and out of bed — I think for good, but very shaky. In this condition I am prevented from going forward, though other difficulties besides my health are delaying my journey west. The rest here is very acceptable, though the heat is already very oppressive. During the last week we have had 98deg and lOOdeg daily in the shade, and the morning constantly opens np the day with 95deg. The work in Chung King is progressing very satisfactorily, and the Lord is giving His blessings. "The Lord's portion is His people." H.B.M. Consulate, May 16. — I am glad

to say I am very much better, and my stay» up here with the Consul, who so kindly invited me to stay with him a little time, will do much to restore me to my ordinary state of health. The city of Chtmg King^ in all its red heat of over lOOdeg in the shade, is just below our feet, as the Consular residence is 1325 ft above the river, but with a very steep grade down. Up here we have only 78deg. The Lord has been very good to me in providing such a grand retreat during nry convalescence. My friend, Mr R., with whom I came up, has invited me to go on farther, and I am very glad to do so m order to get away from this heat, which I feel is too much, for me this time. If Igo it will probably mean that I shall go as jar as Lv Cheo, whence Mr R. will return, but I will wait there for H.M.S. Woodcock, the captain ol which has offered me a passage to Kia Ting. From there I would proceed to Ta Chien Lv to find out for myself the state of things there. I will only take a few things with" me, but if all's well I can get the rest up easily. There is much unrest in